Alaska vs. the Canadian Rockies

[dvbl]

Won't be backpacking or car camping. Strictly for day-hiking (0-to-15ish miles), where's the better place to go, Alaska or Canadian Rockies? If Alaska...where's the best area to spend a week (the other week will be spent on a cruise ship). If Canadian Rockies...where's the best place to spend two weeks. Banff, Jasper, both? Probably will go in August or early September.

 

[Gris]

"Better?" I dunno, just different. With the possible exception of Denali, the Canadian rockies are way more beautiful and scenic IMHO. Perhaps more importantly, the weather will probhably be very different. That time of year in Alaska there will likely be a good bit of grey and wet. The Canadian rockies can get lightening and snow, but otherwise should have more clear days. I guess what I am saying is I am partial to the rockies, but you need to really research the weather. It's basically gonna suck in Alaska as the Bering sea will already be cranking up. This past August I spent a week in a float plane in Alaska with a second generation bush pilot and heard a lot about the weather turning up there around that time of year. BTW, either place there will be very large bears looking for food. Good luck!

 

[J&J]

Myself, I would choose the Canadian Rockies. I've been to Alaska once and the CR's three times. Alaska is beautiful but if you only have a week on land, then it would be hard to hit all the good spots, plus Alaska doesn't have the plethora of trails that the CR's have. In the CR's you'd get a lot more hiking in (good trail systems) and the mountains are incredibly beautiful with lots of glaciers, plus there are lots of opportunities for wildlife sightings: grizzly & black bear, elk, bighorn sheep, mountain goats and more.

I would spend time in the Banff area (very touristy) but some great hiking, Lake Louise area- lots of great hiking, Jasper- my favorite because it's less touristy than the rest of the CR's- lots of great hiking and more laid back, and Yoho, Mt Robson and Lake O'Hara areas. Plus traveling from Banff to Jasper, you get to drive along the Icefield Parkway which has incredible scenery and many trailheads along the way for some fantastic hiking. Since you won't be camping out, there are many hotels, motels, lodges, etc. along the way, however they are very pricey with the current exchange rate.

In two weeks, you'll just touch upon the offerings in the CR's and I know you'll want to go back again and again!

 

[dvbl]

Gris, thanks for the reminder about the weather and bears. I will do my best to take proper precautions for both.

J&J, thanks for the hiking info in CR's. The fact that you've gone back two more times speaks volumes.

 

[dug]

Interesting thread. I was invivited to a trip that was first planned to Kluane National Park in the Yukon. It now might be getting changed to the Gates of the Arctic National Park in Alaska.

Only have a week in each location, and the intent is for some climbing and camping.

Anyone have any opinions on either of those?

 

[Jay H]

I was looking at Gates of the Arctic for a bit last year, but I wound up backpacking in Wrangell St. Elias instead.

Actually I was looking at a self-guided kayak touring trip down the middle fork of the Koyukuk river but decided it was going to be way expensive even self guided up there.

In any case, I love Alaska and would go there over the CRs in a heartbeat (I've been to Banff and Jasper before) but not if you want trails. A lot of Alaska is bushwacking and navigating, especiall Wrangell St Elias and most of Denali.

However, you can find trails and daytrips in many places in the Chugach right outside Anchorage and places in SE Alaska like the Chilkoot trail. but many of the bigger Nat. Parks in Alaska are trailess.

August is the rainy season there but don't let that scare you too much, they have sunny days there too. Wildflowers is best in mid June-July kind of frame... at least up in Denali.

Jay

 

[pudgy_groundhog]

I've technically been to both areas, but don't count my time in Alaska as a real outdoors trip (did a cruise in the Inside Passage). Based on what I've read and what others have said, I think if you're looking for accessible day hiking, the Canadian Rockies might be a better choice.

We've been to the Rockies twice and love it there. Generally, Banff is better for dayhiking than Jasper. I would check out some of the other parks too. Yoho has some really nice dayhiking (beware though if you want to go to Lake Ohara -- it takes some jumping through hoops). We didn't dayhike in Mt. Robson or Kootenay (did backpacking), but I imagine there would be some nice day hikes and at least for Kootenay, they only get a fraction of the visitors the other parks see.

The best book I've seen for Canadian Rockies is The Canadian Rockies Trail Guide by Patton and Robinson. Very useful for planning a trip.

The dayhikes we've done are Lake Helen/Cirque Peak (Banff), Fairview Mountain/Lake Louise (Banff), Sentinel Pass/Eiffel Lakes (Banff, me), Sentinel Pass/Mt Temple (Banff, Steve), Burgess Pass (Yoho), Iceline Trail (Yoho).

FYI, our pictures/notes from both trips are here (2006 is probably more interesting because we were there longer and had better weather):

Canadian Rockies 2005
Canadian Rockies 2006

ETA: a few other things ...

Rockies are super busy in August, less so in September, especially after Labor Day. If going in August, you will probably want to plan accomodations further in advance.

We found that people don't seem to get up to early in the Canadian Rockies. Hitting the trail by 8 (which to us is on the later side) in nearly every instance provided for solace at the summits.

If you are used to hiking in the NE, I think you will find the hiking in the Rockies easier (switchbacks, easy grades, nicely maintained, etc). Just to keep in mind when looking at mileage for hikes.

Some trails in Banff have a minimum group size requirement of six due to grizzly activity. The first year we went some of the trails in Jasper were closed for the same reason.

 

[Neil]

I spent a number of years working and hiking in the CDN Rockies and return for a week or two every few years. I consider the mountains near the continental divide in the Lake Louise area (including Lake O'Hara) to be the most spectacular but along the Jasper Highway as far up as Tthe Columbia Icefields is pretty hard to beat.

You might want to order "Scrambling in the Canadian Rockies" by Alan Kane. Many of the easy "scrambles" described in the book are simple off-trail hikes to spectacular summits, some of which see no more than 2 or 3 parties a year, if that.

Another book is "Don't waste your time in the Canadian Rockies" that hits the highlights and steers you away from the more ordinary hikes.

Lake O'hara has stunningly beautiful hikes but if you will need to reserve seats on the bus well in advance. IIRC the last bus down the 7 mi. restricted road is at 4:30.

 

[timmus]

Lake O'hara has stunningly beautiful hikes but if you will need to reserve seats on the bus well in advance. IIRC the last bus down the 7 mi. restricted road is at 4:30.

If you decide to go for the Canadian Rockies, don't miss your chance like I did. I didn't make reservations, and thought I could get a last minute opening for the bus ride... Never happened, and I never made it to Lake O'Hara.

The Athabasca Glacier bus tour is very interesting, I didn't regret my 30$. I also hiked Wilcox, right accross that Glacier, and it was an amazing hike/scramble. There's nothing like standing on a tiny rocky summit.

 

[Pat T]

I've not been to the Canadian Rockies but I'll go back to Alaska whenever I have the opportunity.

If you have a car, a week on the Kenai Peninsula would give you many hiking opportunities. There are hiking trails that go up from the Seward Highway. You get above timberline very quickly. There are bears, eagles, Dall sheep, moose, etc., to look at. You could walk on a glacier in Seward, check out the tidal pools in Homer, take a boat trip to the Kenai fjords. It would be quite likely that you would see the Aurora.

Hotels/motels and restaurants are not plentiful but you would find a decent selection in the small cities on the peninsula. Local seafood is outstanding.

If you end up selecting Alaska, pm me for some specific suggestions.

Pat T

 

[dvbl]

Follow up question...

Looks like we're bound for the Canadian Rockies (I know the suspense was killing you all ). I love the Trails Illustrated Maps I have for the Tetons and Yellowstone, but I couldn't find them for Jasper, Banff, etc. Does anyone know if Trails Illustrated has maps for Canadian Rockies? If not, who makes them? Looking for same quality as TI Maps.

 

[DougPaul]

I picked up topo maps at the information centers there. There was a map for the southern section and another for the northern section of the Banff to Jasper area.

Doug

 

[J&J]

Check out www.gemtrek.com for great maps to the Canadian Rockies.

My favorite books would include:

The Canadian Rockies Trail Guide by Brian Patton and Bart Robinson. All the hiking trails in the CR's.

Don't Waste Your Time in the Canadian Rockies by Kathy and Craig Copeland. Rates various dayhikes and backpacks. Kind of like the cream of the crop of trails.

Classic Hikes in the Canadian Rockies by Graeme Pole. History and trails info.

An Altitude SuperGuide Canadian Rockies by Graeme Pole. Not so much about the trails but more about what you will see along the way.

Parkways of the Canadian Rockies by Brian Patton. Like Alaska Milepost. Describes the sights as you drive along the various roads in the CR's.

You're going to love the Canadian Rockies!!

 

[Jay H]

I think you'd love both, personally. I've spent some time in both and they are both lovely!

Jay

 

[Stan]

Gathering 10.0 is planned for Banff in August so tune in for details if it fits your itinerary. Darren?

 

[pudgy_groundhog]

I'm sure you can find them online, but we just picked up maps when we got there. And for some of our hikes, we didn't have a topo map at all (tried to buy one in Mt. Robson, but they were sold out. We got by just fine on our photocoped description/map from the book and the pamphlet they gave us).

You'll love the Rockies!!

 

[dvbl]

I'm sure you can find them online, but we just picked up maps when we got there. And for some of our hikes, we didn't have a topo map at all (tried to buy one in Mt. Robson, but they were sold out. We got by just fine on our photocoped description/map from the book and the pamphlet they gave us)...

I could never do that; I'm a total map geek. I like to study the map before I go anywhere. And when I get to a summit I like to take out my map and compass, orient the map, and try to identify every peak, ravine, river, etc, that I can see. A strange addiction that I hope to never be cured of.

 

[Ketch-Up]

If you only have 1 week and want day hikes I would pick Alaska. Everyone says go to Denali. I would say you are better off going to the Kenai Pennisula south of Anchorage. Tons of day hikes along Turnagain Arm which the most scenic road I have been on. There are also tons of day hikes easily accessible a few minutes from Anchorage. Hiking in August and September in the Anchorage Area is fine. You could also check out the Valdez area. There are several galciers you can hike next to and Keystone canyon has a ton of waterfalls. Anywhere you go you will find tons of wildlife. It is so nice Spongebob came up here 2 years in a row. I had to leave the country for 16 months to make him stop coming up here!
I have lots of info on Alaska(I live in Anchorage) PM me if you have questions about AK

 

[Jay H]

You could also check out the Valdez area.

So long as you can pass all the RVs on the Richardson Highway heading towards Glenallen and Mt Drum!

Valdez is another popular sea kayaking spot, as well as the Kenai Peninsul (Seward) and the Richardson Highway (IMO) rivals the road down Turnagain Arm. What is cool driving down towards the Kenai and Turnagain Arm are the mudflats with the bore tide.

Check out the Double Musky in Girdwood and the Portage Glacier musuem which is a fun little stop on the Seward Highway.

For only a week, there are plenty of things to do in and around Anchorage, the Chugach mtns are 15 minutes away and there are some very nice musuems in downtown Anchorage which are worth the trip, even though it isn't an "outdoorsy" thing.

Jay

p.s. I know what you mean about Spongebob. I went on a hike with him on Noonmark in the ADKs and he kept falling all over himself. Sheesh. I would most certainly pack up and leave if I found that Spongebob was going to be within 30 meters...