Backpacking the "Enchantments" ~ Washington State

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roadtripper

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The Enchantment Lakes is a collection of extraordinarily scenic sub-alpine and alpine lakes in central Washington. The lakes are the prized possession of the Alpine Lakes Wilderness, and the journey to visit them is widely regarded as one of the best backpacking trips in the state.

In a typical year, the trail through the Enchantments is only accessible to the average hiker from early August through early October. Outside of this short window of time, steep snowfields will make travel in the Enchantments difficult if not dangerous. We chose early September to minimize the amount of snow that we would encounter. It can snow any day of the year in the Enchantments, but the weather was perfect for our three day visit.

Permits are required to camp in the Enchantments, and they are not easy to come by. For three straight years in a row, I submitted a lottery application with mid-week entry dates, thinking we stood a fair chance of scoring permits for our group. We were thrilled when we received the congratulations email this year! We were awarded our top choice of dates as well—dates that allowed us to also squeeze in a concert at “The Gorge”, a Red Sox game in Seattle, and 2 days in Mount Rainier National Park into our trip itinerary.

We chose the Snow Lakes Trailhead as our starting point, even though that is the opposite of what most people do. The trailhead is off Icicle Rd, a paved road that is only minutes from the town of Leavenworth. The somewhat dull views from the road and trailhead do not give the slightest inkling of what’s to come.

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The Snow Lakes Trail climbed gradually with good footing all the way to Nada Lake (5.5 miles) and then to the two Snow Lakes (6.5 miles). Both Nada Lake and the Snow Lakes are well below treeline and are mostly surrounded by tall balsam fir trees. Snow Lakes has some views of the mountains that lie ahead, but they are limited. There are some good campsites close to the trail along each of these lakes.

While the trail was relatively easy to the Snow Lakes, the climb up to Lake Viviane required light scrambling and a fair amount of elevation gain. Lake Viviane is the first lake in the Lower Enchantments Zone. This is a sub-alpine gem, and a good start to the scenic splendor that is yet to come. This is where we chose to camp for the first night since we were pretty beat after the 9.4 miles and 5,500ft of elevation gain required to reach the lake. We spotted at least four campsites on the shores of this lake. The primo spot—right on the shore of the lake—was already taken by another group, so we took a site that was 30 feet above the lake and surrounded by granite, which offered decent protection from the wind.

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It wasn’t long before the most famous residents of the Enchantments made an appearance. Within just ten minutes of our arrival, a very healthy and habituated white mountain goat spun by for a look at our campsite. Soon, we had four or five of the goats making random appearances every hour or so. This lasted throughout the night. They were completely unafraid of humans, mainly because they absolutely love human urine. Yep—mountain goats will go so far as to rip up the dirt just to get a lick of pee. Whenever you try to go the bathroom, they will start to become semi-aggressive and get within 8 or 10 feet of you.

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We woke up early the next morning and cooked breakfast on a flat rock that offered views back down into the Snow Lakes valley. It was truly a great place to start the day.

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After breakfast, we began our trek through the Lower Enchantment Zone. It only took 15 minutes to reach Leprechaun Lake, another pretty near-alpine lake that also had a few excellent campsite offerings along its shores.

From Leprechaun Lake until the end of the Enchantment Zone, the scenery is consistently gorgeous. Nobody could put their cameras away for more than 10 minutes because there were outstanding new views around every single corner. It suddenly made perfect sense as to why this place is so well-regarded.

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Once thing we all got a kick out of on this trip was the “outhouses”. None of us had ever seen outhouses like this—they were just wooden boxes with a hole cut into them. They would have been uncomfortable, except for the fact that the USFS strategically placed about half of them in areas that offered outstanding views. I highly doubt you’ve ever done your business anywhere else that offered such a fine view as the one seen from the “outhouse” near Lake Viviane. Some of the spur trails to these toilets offered spectacular views en route—views that could not be seen from the main trail. It sounds odd, but I strongly feel that all visitors should take every spur trail to every toilet in the Enchantment Zone.

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The next lake along the route is Sprite Lake. Shortly after that is Perfection Lake, which certainly lives up to its bold name, with its absolutely gorgeous craggy mountains rising high above the lake. On the northern edge of the lake, a 0.4 mile spur trails climbs moderately to Prusik Pass—a highly worthwhile detour that offered distinct post-card worthy views in two directions.

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A herd of about twenty mountain goats and a few shrieking marmots were seen along the spur trail to Prusik Pass.

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After taking the spur trail to Prusik Pass, we returned back to Perfection Lake and headed towards Inspiration Lake. Inspiration Lake was another fantastic alpine jewel. Once past Inspiration Lake, you enter the unofficial boundary of the “Upper” Enchantment Zone. It isn’t long before the hike turns a corner and presents you with a jaw-dropping view of Crystal Lake—along with some of the finest alpine campsites in all of the Northwest. If you are looking for a classic alpine campsite, you will find what you desire here. The views are outstanding and there are good day trips that you can take from here too. I desperately wanted to camp here since two phenomenal sites were yet to be taken, but we all decided to continue on so that we could camp closer to Aasgard Pass. Our rational was that camping at Aasgard Pass would set us up for easier finish to our adventure the following day. One thing that many people do (and something that I wish we had in fact done) was to scramble to the summit of Little Annapurna. It’s supposed to be a really fun climb, with no serious technical difficulties or problems. I’ve seen pictures on the internet from the summit, and it clearly looks as if it offers some of the best possible panoramas that you can get from anywhere in the Enchantments. The rumor going around is that there are also some legendary flat and sandy campsites near the base of Little Annapurna that cannot be seen from the main trail.

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After passing the primo campsites near the Crystal Lake overlook (btw, you can get closer to Crystal Lake by bushwhacking southwest from Sprite Lake), we continued past many small glacier ponds as we continued deeper into the upper Enchantment Zone. You may think that by now all the lakes would start getting tedious, but they just do not. The scenery is consistently dazzling, and every lake has a different personality. Some lakes have jagged peaks behind them, while others have lingering snowfields or beautiful sandy beaches. It is so hard to even pick a favorite of all the lakes because they are all “10”s.

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When you are deep in the Enchantment Zone, it is very wise keep turning around to check the views behind you, especially when you hike in the direction that we did. The mighty and intimidating Prusik Peak provides an outstanding backdrop on so many different vantages points along the route, especially between the Crystal Lake overlook and throughout the upper Enchantment Zone.

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When we reached Isolation Lake—which is only 0.4 mile from the top of Aasgard Pass and the end of the Enchantment Zone—towards the end of the second day, we could immediately tell that we had found the perfect place to camp. I no longer regretted leaving the empty campsites near the Crystal Lake overlook. There was a large sandy beach at the base of the lake, and it was completely deserted. From the lake you could see many snowfields, glaciers, and tall, rocky peaks. A few mountain goats could be seen strolling around the edge of the lake. It was as idyllic of a campsite that I have ever seen—and certainly the finest spot that I have ever set up a tent.

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Our campsite at Isolation Lake was chilly at night (38 degrees), but not too windy. From what I have read, we were lucky—this beach (sometimes referred to as Jiffy Pop Beach) is notorious for being extremely cold and windy since it is completely exposed to the elements and located at around 7,700ft. To give you a sense of how cold this area is, consider the fact that there was fair amount of ice still remaining in the lake, even though it was early September!

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We awoke early from our tents and caught the sunrise, which was nothing short of dazzling. The alpen-glow that was highlighting the peaks above the lake was spectacular, and we all rushed for our cameras.

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The reflection in the almost-perfectly-still lake was excellent too. Watching the sunrise here is the type of moment that so many of us strive for in the mountains. It was a morning none of us will soon forget.


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After sunrise, we ate a quick breakfast (Bacon Jerky and Oatmeal!) and headed towards Aasgard Pass. We had all read numerous warnings about how nasty and steep this pass was, since it loses about 2,200ft of elevation in about a mile. It took us nearly two hours to get down this pass—and it was steep indeed—but it didn’t quite live up to its reputation. There were cairns along the entire route, and they were easy to find and follow. The footing was mostly rough, but there was almost no true exposure along the entire route. There was some boulder hoping and loose rock/talus, but it wasn’t consistent. Every uncomfortable spot was soon followed by an easier section. If you’ve ever done the Abol Slide on Katahdin, I would say that the steepness and difficulty is just about on par with that trail.

At the bottom of Aasgard Pass lies Colchuck Lake, a classic destination in its own right. Although the lake is sub-alpine, it has fantastic views of Aasgard Pass and Dragontail Peak. Under the right lighting conditions, the lake is extremely photogenic. A few tents were set right up on the sandy shore of the lake. This would be a fine place to camp if you couldn’t obtain permits for the core Enchantment Zone.

The trail along the western shorn of Colchuck Lake was rocky and challenging, with many annoying ups and downs (although maybe we were just tired from hiking down the pass by this point?). From Colchuck Lake down to the end of the trail is 3 or 4 miles over semi-rough terrain. Once we reached the Stuart Lake Trailhead, two of us were able to hitchhike back to grab our car at the Snow Lakes Trail. We headed straight for a KOA “Kabin” to shower up, and then we spoiled ourselves to some excellent Italian food and beer in Leavenworth afterwards.

TIPS TO HELP YOU PLAN A TRIP TO THE ENCHANTMENTS:

• Although we did it in reverse, most people hike the Enchantments by starting at the Stuart Lakes Trailhead and finishing at the Snow Lake Trailhead. However, if you don’t mind about 1,000 more feet of elevation gain, you can just as easily do this hike in reverse. The benefits to doing this trip in reverse is that can you get the long slog from Snow Lakes to the core Enchantment Zone out of the way on the first day (9.4 miles).
• Many people day hike the Enchantments because it avoids the whole permit process. The classic traverse is approximately 19 miles with 6000ft of elevation gain and 7800ft of elevation loss. The normal way to do a day hike is to start at the Stuart Lakes Trailhead. You’ll need to hitch a ride from the Snow Lake Trailhead to the Stuart Lakes Trailhead, use a car-spot, or stash a bike and ride between the trailheads. I would say that the difficulty of this traverse is somewhere between a Bonds Traverse and a Presidential Traverse, which means it is certainly doable for many VFTT members. Backpacker Magazine called the Enchantments Traverse one of “America’s hardest day hikes”.
• The Bavarian-themed town of Leavenworth makes for a great basecamp for a trip to the Enchantments, although it is quite touristy. We didn’t realize it at the time, but there is a brewery in town (Icicle Brewing Company) that would make for an excellent post-hike celebration spot. Oh well, next time…
• It can be VERY windy and cold in the Enchantments, so you’ll want warm clothing and a solid sleeping bag. It was 38 degrees on our visit and my 20 degree synthetic sleeping bag wasn’t really warm enough to keep me completely comfortable.
• Try your absolute hardest to push to the Enchantment Zone on your first day. This will be difficult for many to do with a full pack on, but you will not regret these efforts once you reach the core Enchantment Zone. There are great campsites to be found on both sides of the core Enchantment zone as soon as you enter it.
• The core Enchantment Zone is only 3-4 miles in length, but there are several worthwhile side trips you absolutely should take, including:
.....Crystal Lake (access from Sprite Lake)
.....Prusik Pass (easy 0.4 mile spur trail to excellent views; access from Perfection Lake)
.....Little Annapurna (a fun scramble with outstanding views; access from Crystal Lake overlook)
.....Temple Lake (quiet lake; access from Lake Viviane)
.....Gnome Tarn (offers the best view of Prusik Peak; this is an absolute MUST-DO)
 
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Wonderful report and pictures! Adds another to my bucket list!
 
Where's that {like} button? Awesome! That one goes on the list. Yes, cantdog, especially for the privies.
 
Greg,

Another amazing trip. You once again lived up to your member name.

Hope our paths cross soon, my friend.

Marty

P.S. your hair line recession seems to be on the march. Maybe in about 20 years it will equal mine . :p ;)
 
Great report and pictures, thanks for posting. It's always good to see stuff from out West, if only it was easier and cheaper to get out there! I had seen the Enchantments in Backpacker and put it on a mental list-- now I know where to turn (your logistical notes and tips) if this ever becomes reality.

Seeing the mountain goats brought up fond memories of hiking in Glacier NP, with tons coming right up to us, including a kid goat within a few feet of us while we ate lunch on a rock.
 
Lovely report, thanks for posting. Looks and sounds like a gorgeous place. Glad you had a wonderful time, hope to see the area myself some day.
 
Wow! GREAT trip report!

We are in the Olympics right now - wishing we had more time - the Enchantments are definately on the list for next time!

As a side bar, we were up on Hurricane Ridge yesterday and read a warning sign about habituated mountain goats ~ I had NO idea it was pee they were after!
 
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