Baldface/Royce Range traverse 6/16/07

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rocksnrolls

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Phillipston, MA - Avatar: bushwacking off the top
Today started as the first all-male group hike I think I've ever been on. PoisonIvy would join up with us later in the day...

The group included myself, Amicus, Dougeh, ScenicNH, Nartreb, Skapig, and Yellowdog and his yellow dog Chester. Chester was raring to go and barked a few times as we were gearing up, as if to say 'come on, let's go!'

After a short stop at Emerald Pool - looks like a nice place for a dip - we headed up Slippery Brook Tr for a nice easy start to the day. We split into two groups - the fast guys: Amicus, Nartreb, Skapig and Yellowdog; and the slow guys: me, Dougeh and ScenicNH.

We took a short snack break at the junction with the Eastman and baldface Knob Tr's. I noticed a well-defined herd path at the junction and speculated it might lead to a campsite. We all headed up to Eastman and were quite pleased by the views. It seems not too many people head over to this peak and I can suppose it would be less impressive if you had come over the Baldfaces on the way, but for the first peak of the day it was quite rewarding for our group. The summit has views all around and has some nice open ledges. We bagan the first of many rounds of 'name that peak'. We were surprised later in the day when looking back to Eastman that it looks like it has a fully wooded summit. Well worth checking out!

After heading back to the junction we met a group of women coming up that herd path with full backpacking gear. Guess I was right about that campsite.

From there it was a wonderful hike to the Baldfaces. First the Knob, then South Peak and finally North Peak. I had read many reports of the beauty of these bare-summited peaks and was not disappointed in the least. The other was close to perfect. Nice clear skies, warm but not too hot, with a few clouds, mostly toward the Presis, to break up the blue. We might have enjoyed more of a breeze as the air was nearly still, but you can't have everything.

We didn't have too many animal sightings on this trip, mostly toads. I spotted a quick-moving snake and a frog at one stream crossing. The most exotic was a hummingbird moth enjoying some of the alpine flowers. Was it on Baldface somewhere that we saw it? That was my third time spotting one of these impressive bugs and they're one of my favorites. Speaking of bugs, we were pleasantly surprised to not have too much trouble with the blood-sucking kinds that we had been warned might be a trouble in this range.

So, after the Bladfaces, Yellowdog headed back down - Chester was overheating - and so did Skapig who wasn't feel all that well himself. The remaining 5 hikers headed off toward Eagle Crag. Nearing this rocky cliff area we finally ran into a well-cooked PoisonIvy. She had arrived a couple hours earlier and had taken a brief nap in the shadow of a large boulder. Turns out that was a good recipe for a cure of her tendencies to bring up the rear in group hikes.

We headed over to Mt Meader from there. Near the junction with the Meader Tr we spotted the base of an old fire tower in the nearby woods. Right at the junction was an obvious herd path that probably would have lead us to the true summit, but we all figured we had enough on our plates for today without the sidetrip. I'll look forward to heading over there when I return to redline some more of the trails here. Never did see any sign of a herd path over to Ragged Jacket after Meader. I guess it'll take more of a whack to get to that one.

Amicus needed to get home at a reasonable hour so left the group to head down via the Meader Tr. PoisonIvy headed down with him as she was feeling a little over-done from having spent so much time on the exposed Eagle Crag.

The remaining four of us headed off onto the less-travelled Basin Rim Tr to head to the Royces. The trails so far today had been nicely cleared and very easy to hike. Now we started to have to push through a lot of evergreen branches to make our way. Nartreb and Dougeh were shirtless and ended up with many needles stuck all over their skin. Along the Rim we had some gorgeous views down into the Basin.

Heading up to West Royce the dreaded word 'interminable' came to mind. Many false summits were attained and left behind as we continued on and up, finally reaching a trail sign which indidcated we had just passed the unmarked summit. The trails down and then over to East Royce were beautiful. Amazing cliffs along the trail, some nice steep sections. I look forward to heading back to these peaks again some day. It was hard to fully appreciate the scenary at the end of such along day and none of us were taking too many photos at this point. We probably had over 1000 pictures from the earlier part of the day amongst us.

ScenicNH took a nap at the last juction to East Royce - he'd been there before - while Dougeh, Nartreb and I climbed the last steep 500 feet up to our last peak of the day. East Royce has some great views as well and was a great cap to the day.

East Royce had been planned to be my first Maine Peak. But I had decided at the last minute to head out to check out the trailheads the day before. On the advice of Steve Smith I then headed up to Little Deer Hill, a 1000 footer that is reached by heading east from the Baldface Loop parking lot. That hour loop featured some great ledges and a cave (on the Ledge Tr) and sweet views of the range I would soon be the next day.

Thanks to everyone who came along. This was one of the best hikes I've ever been on! I highly recommend this area to anyone who is interested in hiking some of the sub-4K peaks in the Whites. I will certainly be back some time in the future.
 
This was a really great hike -- I just wish I didn't miss out on the best views. But work and a headache conspired against me on this one.

Thanks Rocksnrolls for organizing this... I was glad to get a chance to hike in the Baldface area again after a long absence.

There were lots of photographers on the hike... so there will be tons of terrific pictures. Mine are all from the middle of the hike and can be found here.

- Ivy
 
rocksnrolls said:
This was one of the best hikes I've ever been on!

I have to agree with that. I'd been putting off Evans Notch for years, for no good reason, and it fully lived up to its reputation. Our loop reminded me of the Katahdin perimeter, on a small scale, without the crowds or the seven-hour drive. Eastman is like Mt. Davis.

The Mt. Meader Trail, which Ivy and I took down from the ridge, was ideal - easy, uneroded surfaces, no "ups," some good views, several crossings of cooling brooklets and a spur-path to Brickett Falls. I had parked my car at that trailhead, which is .5 mile north of the big Baldface Circle lot - room for just a few cars but mine was the only one on this day.

A sunny day like this was what we wanted for the views, but it was hot with all the ridge-walking, so bring extra water.

As Ivy notes, the photographic talent on this hike was exceptional, including a pro - ScenicNH. I took a few snaps anyway, mainly for human (and canine) interest - here.
 
As I recall, the hummingbird moth was spotted while we were resting at the base of the spur to Eastman - it was visiting the Clintonia and that was the first spot where they were flowering in abundance.

Was the firetower foundation on Meader or on West Royce? (It was a long day, not sure I remember it right.) There are lists of old firetowers; West Royce shows up but not Meader. I'll have to correlate the sequence of photos with the angle of views into the Basin to check.

my Baldface-Royce Range photos

I'll have to come back to shoot the Evans Notch cliffs in early-morning light, and I'd like to see the view from Little Deer Hill on a less-humid day too.
 
nartreb said:
Was the firetower foundation on Meader or on West Royce? (It was a long day, not sure I remember it right.) There are lists of old firetowers; West Royce shows up but not Meader. I'll have to correlate the sequence of photos with the angle of views into the Basin to check.

There is no foundation on West Royce unless it is well off the beaten path.
-vegematic
 
Actually the old fire tower foundation is on West Royce off the main trail through some thick tree growth.
 
J&J is/are right.
this photo was clearly taken at the viewpoint on Mt Meader (east and probably north of the exact summit), looking northeast over the Basin. (I also took more photos within minutes of that one, looking down on Basin Pond from west of the south shore, so there's no question about the location.)

My camera clock shows that it was two hours later (with an unpublished photo of treelined trail in between) before I spotted four foundations like this one. An unpublished shot of a view to Speckled Mountain from the trail at about this time, showing Ames and Spruce Hill perfectly aligned, confirms that this is West Royce. The foundations were in a small clearing maybe twenty feet off the trail. The fir between was fairly thick - I thought the nearest cornerstone was some kind of memorial plaque at first - but the "bushwhack" was trivial (I followed somebody's tracks to the south end of the clearing along the path of fewest trees).
 
It must of been a long day if there is so much help to recall it all. Sounds awesome. I would have liked to have made it. Next time... Or if I get an impromtu chance to check it out myself, I'll know a little of what to expect. Anyway, I'm glad you had fun and that there are trip reports for me to read about. :)
 
A great hike, indeed! MEB, JohnS, SherpaKroto and I did it in the opposite direction a couple years ago. Sounds like you also had a great day for it. By my standards it's a long one (17+ miles), but a great one! Glad you all had such a good time.

FWIW, East Royce is a really good starter hike for young kids, even 4 and 5 year olds. Short, lots of interest, pretty safe and good views [at] FROM the top.
 
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nartreb said:
The foundations were in a small clearing maybe twenty feet off the trail. The fir between was fairly thick - I thought the nearest cornerstone was some kind of memorial plaque at first - but the "bushwhack" was trivial (I followed somebody's tracks to the south end of the clearing along the path of fewest trees).

Excellent, I'll have to look for that next time I'm up there. I just did an overnight on that summit and somehow completely missed the foundation.
-vegematic
 
Hey Ron thanks for putting the trip together. The day ended up being a little too long and hot for Chester. Actually the heat was getting to me a little too. I think he's just losing his winter coat now and seemed unusually warm. After leaving South Bald face we went ahead across N. Baldface and Meader Ridge Trail. We found some shade and took about a 30 minute nap in the shade and went for a couple swims along the Meader Trail on the way down. That's great that some of you made it the whole way. What time did you finish up?
 
yellow dog said:
Hey Ron thanks for putting the trip together. The day ended up being a little too long and hot for Chester. Actually the heat was getting to me a little too. I think he's just losing his winter coat now and seemed unusually warm. After leaving South Bald face we went ahead across N. Baldface and Meader Ridge Trail. We found some shade and took about a 30 minute nap in the shade and went for a couple swims along the Meader Trail on the way down. That's great that some of you made it the whole way. What time did you finish up?

Sounds like you made the smart choice for you and Chester. He was a great dog to hike with. It was good that you had run into PoisonIvy too since she wasn't sure if she had missed us - yeah, like I could hike that fast :rolleyes:

We got out around 9pm, just as it was getting dark - pretty awesome timing if I do say so myself :D
 
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