Banff or Jasper Nat'l Park - 4-5 night route recommendation?

[blaze]

Hi,

Has anyone backpacked in Banff and/or Jasper National Parks? If so, any recommendations for a 3-5 night backpacking route? What year, and what time of year, did you go? Other thoughts, warnings, recommendations?

Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thank you!

Jonathan

 

[pudgy_groundhog]

We've been to the Canadian Rockies three times. The first time we were there was 2005 for a week in early September. We set out to do the Brazeau Loop (on border of Banff and Jasper, got our permit through Jasper since the backcountry sites are in that park). First night we had a snowstorm and really weren't equipped for it so hiked out and ended up doing some day hikes the rest of the week (Helen Lake and Cirque Peak, Sentinel Pass and Mt Temple, Fairview Mtn, Cavell Meadows).

We learned our lesson and the second time we went back in 2006 we went for two weeks (again, early September). Our weather ran the gamut from sunny and warm to another snowstorm, but it didn't really disrupt our plans too much (we had to cancel our trip into Assiniboine). This time we did a series of shorter backpacking trips: the Rockwall in Kootenay, Berg Lake and Snowbird Pass in Mt. Robson Provincial Park, and Tonquin Valley. We also did some dayhikes - the Iceline Trail and Burgess Pass in Yoho).

Our most recent trip was last year (two weeks in late August). This time we had our ~21 month old daughter with us and backpacking wasn't really an option. However, we still made it into the backcountry. We camped three nights at Lake O'Hara in Yoho and five nights in Assiniboine Provincial Park. We also day hiked (Eiffel Lake/Wenkchemna Pass, Burstall Pass, trails around Lake Louise, Bourgeau Lake).

Out of the backpacking we did, Berg Lake was our favorite (close second was Tonquin Valley). We camped two nights in Berg Lake (day hiked to Snowbird Pass the second day), and one night at Kinney Lake (we could've gone all the way out the third day, but opted to camp in the backcountry instead of car camping). I think it was ~12.5 miles to Berg Lake and about 14 miles RT to Snowbird Pass).

While Berg Lake was our favorite backpack, Assiniboine is our favorite area. We had intended to backpack Assiniboine on our second trip, but canceled due to snow. Last year we cheated and took the helicopter in (17 miles with a toddler and all our gear just wasn't happening, lol). It was just gorgeous. You can arrange a one way hike (17 miles in and 17 miles out), but to forgo the hassle I think most people go in and out the same way. If you wanted a longer trip you could hike in to Assiniboine and base camp for a few nights. There are many scrambles and dayhikes there that are amazing. Another nice thing about Assiniboine is that you don't need a permit for the campground by Lake Magog (run by Assiniboine Lodge and when we called for a reservation they said they never run out of room, so you just roll up).

What we saw of the Brazeau loop was wonderful, we still want to go back and do it. It's supposed to be a great hike. Other backpacks we haven't done that are supposed to be nice are the Sawback in Banff and the Skyline in Jasper.

We used the Patton and Robinson book for planning (I think it's on the seventh edition - considered the Canadian Rockies bible). Another book that people like (we've thumbed through it and liked it, just didn't buy it at the time) is "Don't Waste Your Time in the Canadian Rockies". Depending on time of the year certain trails might be closed and/or hiking restrictions in place due to grizzly activity. We didn't carry a bear canister - the backcountry sites we were at had bear poles for storage and separate cooking areas. Typical precautions recommended for travel in bear country - make noise, bear spray, etc.

Late August was perfect for Assiniboine - the nights were around freezing and there really weren't any bugs. Locals told us earlier the summer the bugs can be horrendous. Likewise, Tonquin Valley is best done late in the season too (lots of horse traffic creating muddy trails and also really buggy).

Our pictures/trip notes are posted here:

2005 (mostly day hiking in Banff)

2006 (the Rockwall, Tonquin Valley, Berg Lake, Yoho day hikes)

2009 (Assiniboine, Lake O'Hara, Lake Louise day hikes)

We LOVE the Canadian Rockies. You will have a fantastic trip. Let me know if you have any further questions -- happy to help!

 

[Billy]

blaze, I've only day-hiked in the Canadian Rockies, I've never backpacked there, so I can't help with personal experience. But while I was out there, I picked up this book. Really nice book. Local guy (from Calgary I think) survives a bout with cancer and decides to spend the next summer backpacking the CR. In addition to enjoying the book, you might also get some good backpacking ideas.

Even though not really a backpack, if you head into Lake O'Hara (Yoho NP) and use the campground as a basecamp for several days and do day-hikes, you probably will not regret it.

Have fun. Please post a trip report.

 

[blaze]

I would like to thank you both for your thoughtful and thorough responses. If any other thoughts, suggestions, or caveats occur to you, please don't hesitate to share them with me.

 

[Stan]

Here's a trip report I did on the Canadian Rockies. We only did dayhikes but I mentioned Skyline Trail (Maligne Lake, Jasper) as a highly recommended backpack by those who had done it ... lot's of ridge walking and time above treeline.

Canadian Rockies trip report

Neil describes an epic journey which is linked in that post.

Another backpack I'd consider, but don't mention in the post, is a loop near Takakkaw Falls in Yoho consisting of Yoho Valley and Iceline Trails.

Lake O'Hara, as with many popular destinations, requires reservations just to take the bus so book early ... even now may be too late for this summer.

 

[pudgy_groundhog]

Lake O'Hara, as with many popular destinations, requires reservations just to take the bus so book early ... even now may be too late for this summer.

The earliest you can book is three months in advance. We had to call two days (both Steve and I were calling from separate phones) to get in. We talked to other people who were day hiking that got cancellation spots. If you wanted to just see Lake O'Hara and do a shorter hike, you can also walk the road in (no limit to the number of people who want to do that) and get a bus ride out.

FYI, while Lake O'Hara is technically backcountry camping, the campground is essentially like a car camping campground. I didn't mind so much (it is a nice campground and having trash cans is really key when you have dirty diapers you don't want to pack out ), but if you are looking for a more wilderness experience, then you probably won't like camping there. However, the scenery is just stunning and the Alpine Circuit is one of our top day hikes ever - so you probably wouldn't regret camping there if you went.

 

[wardsgirl]

We did the Skyline Trail in July 2004. It was awesome! We did it as a backpack with 3 nights spent in the backcountry- for which you will need permits. We spent nights at Little Shovel Pass, Curator, and Tekara, which as I recall were all about 7-8 miles apart, but you can choose different campsites. The notch was passable, but snow covered. We got a shuttle from Jasper to Maligne Lake and hiked north. Great trip!

 

[blaze]

We did the Skyline Trail in July 2004. It was awesome! We did it as a backpack with 3 nights spent in the backcountry- for which you will need permits. We spent nights at Little Shovel Pass, Curator, and Tekara, which as I recall were all about 7-8 miles apart, but you can choose different campsites. The notch was passable, but snow covered. We got a shuttle from Jasper to Maligne Lake and hiked north. Great trip!

Where did you fly into for your Skyline trip?

Thanks to all for the information. This is great!

Any recommendations re. detailed trail maps and guidebooks? The local library had the Lonely Planet guide to Banff, Jasper & Glacier... big goose egg at Border's in S.Portland. Going to have to order some more stuff online.

Did folks have difficulty getting your "first choice" itinerary, be it car camping or backpacking? Did you have to wait 'til three months, to the day, before phoning in your request?

 

[BF]

Wardsgirl and I flew into Calgary and rented a Ford Explorer. Our trip was during the second and third weeks of July. We spent two weeks traveling from Banff, to Lake Louise and then to Jasper car camping and day hiking along the way and ending with a 4 day 3 night backpack in Jasper on the Skyline Trail.

This hike had an average elevation of 8,000’ with a hike through the pass at about 10,000’. I don’t remember all the details, but we spotted the car on the northern end and got on a shuttle to the southern end and hiked north. We got our permits just a couple days before the hike at the Jasper ranger station, without making any advanced reservations. Don’t know if I can recommend that, but that’s how it worked out for us.

Car camping along the way ranged from very large family style camping to small and rustic similar to our White Mountain car camping sites. However, large or small we always found plenty of privacy for our car, small tent and with a picnic table and a fire pit. We did not make any reservations and had no difficulty finding empty sites. Our entire trip was on the fly.

We found that by getting in lots of day hikes along the way gave us the opportunity to see many of the different sights and to give us a chance to get acclimated for a long backpack into the back country at the higher elevation.

When we got to Jasper we stayed at the Pine Bungalow Cabins. www.pinebungalows.com. These were reasonably priced, individual cabins with showers, a kitchen and fireplace on the river. It was a great place to set up a base camp to prepare and pack for our backpack trip. It’s less than 5 minutes from town. After our hike we went back to the cabins to get cleaned up and prepare for our flight back.

Books and maps that we found helpful:
Classic hikes in the Canadian Rockies by Graeme Pole*
The Canadian Rockies Trail Guide by Brian Patton/Bart Robinson*
Backcountry Huts & Lodges of the Rockies & Columbias by Jim Scott
Frommer’s Banff & Jasper National Parks

*Most Helpful

Gem Trek Maps:
Jasper and Maligne Lake
Banff & Mount Assiniboine
Lake Louise & Yoho
Columbia Icefield
Bow Lake and Saskatchewan Crossing
Kootenay National Park

I believe the books came from Barnes and Noble. Barnes and Noble also carries maps, but I can't recall where we got ours.

In most established backcountry campsites there are poles to hang your food. Carrying bear spray was recommended by the rangers. We did not carry, but that was some time ago. Check the requirements. If you need one, buy it in Calgary. The only critters we had to fight off were mosquitoes. This time of year they are out in packs, but the wild flowers were in full bloom. The Skyline Trail is 31 miles long. Take your time. The scenery is spectacular and you want to enjoy it.

 

[Stuart]

Get a copy of "Don't Waste Your Time in the Canadian Rockies, An Opinionated Hiking Guide" by Kathy and Craig Copeland. They review all the backpack and day hikes like restaurant reviews with rankings and candid remarks. It is the most helpful hiking guide I've ever seen. This book should give you all the information you need to choose the best hikes.

 

[Stan]

Carrying bear spray was recommended by the rangers. We did not carry, but that was some time ago. Check the requirements. If you need one, buy it in Calgary.

... or in Edmonton, Banff, Jasper or anywhere else there is an outdoor store. Technically, like guns they are not supposed to be brought into Canada but I do know that hunters are able to bring their own guns across the border, probably with some advance permitting. Same concern re flying.

People I've known out west who hike in grizzly country routinely hike with bear spray accessibly holstered on the front strap of their backpack.

 

[blaze]

• Does anyone know when "buffalo berry season" occurs? This is mentioned in the official Backcountry Visitor's Guide.
• Do you recommend 20 degree sleeping bags for mid August (assume so, just double checking)
• Did you all carry pepper spray? Wear "bear bells?"

I have the "Canadian Rockies Trail Guide" on order from Amazon. "Don't Waste Your Time in the Canadian Rockies" has been requested via inter-library loan. I will order the necessary Gem Trek trail maps once we've decided on a route. Yes, I hope to make that decision first, before ordering topo maps. I am hoping the various guides and books will have sufficient info on distance and elevation gain.

I would like to thank everyone once again for their thoughtful responses.

 

[pudgy_groundhog]

... or in Edmonton, Banff, Jasper or anywhere else there is an outdoor store. Technically, like guns they are not supposed to be brought into Canada but I do know that hunters are able to bring their own guns across the border, probably with some advance permitting. Same concern re flying.

You can't fly with bear spray, but you can bring it across the border if you are driving. If you're flying, it's a bummer because you have to pay the $50 and can't take it back with you. Sometimes people will leave bear spray at visitor center/ranger stations if they can't take it with them.

Bear spray is recommended, forget the bear bells. The best thing to do is not surprise a bear -- make noise while you hike (human voices are the best), especially when coming around a bend, near berry patches, if you see signs of bear activity, etc.

The coldest it got when we were there last two weeks in August was freezing, 20 degree bag should be fine.

I am hoping the various guides and books will have sufficient info on distance and elevation gain.

We did all our planning with the book you ordered (Patton and Robinson's book). Your only problem will be trying to decide what to do. Assiniboine, Assiniboine, Assiniboine

 

[BF]

We also used 20 degree bags. Nights get cold. We had an inch of snow one night. Don't forget a hat and gloves!

 

[blaze]

Your only problem will be trying to decide what to do. Assiniboine, Assiniboine, Assiniboine

Your words and photos make a compelling case! Just when I was starting to lean toward Sawback. But getting input from those who have been there was the whole reason I started this thread.

So, I will definitely take a 2nd look at Assiniboine. Both routes appear to be on the same Gem Trek map. So I think I can safely go ahead and order that.

Thanks again to all. Keep those cards and letters coming!

 

[Billy]

• Does anyone know when "buffalo berry season" occurs? This is mentioned in the official Backcountry Visitor's Guide.
• Did you all carry pepper spray? Wear "bear bells?"

We were there in mid-August and it was berry season. Here is a photo I took of a sign near Lake Minnewanka. We wanted to hike to Aylmer Pass (look at the photo in Patton/Robinson's book and you'll see why), but the trail was closed because of berry season. The bottom of the photo shows what these berries look like.

I second pudgy_groundhog's idea of forgetting the bear bells. They don't make enough noise. Yes, we carried pepper spray. And during our Opal Hills hike in Jasper, I had my hand on the pepper spray several times....very spooky dense brush, low-visibility in several spots.

 

[Darl58]

You can't fly with bear spray
We did all our planning with the book you ordered (Patton and Robinson's book). Your only problem will be trying to decide what to do. Assiniboine, Assiniboine, Assiniboine

Bear spray I would definitly carry, can't fly with it though...bells not bother.
Abide by signage for trail closures...as they have huge fines if you get caught without the minimum group size!

Assiniboine is on my to do list for this summer.....
I have only day-hiked, as I have lots of friends to stay with and visit in Banff.

As for books..I would go with:

Scrambles in the Canadian Rockies by Alan Kane

It's my go to book for just about all the good hikes in the Canadian Rockies.
Most of the larger peaks are scrambles and this book does an excellent job of desciptions, time, distance, elevation and pics!

Jasper is beautifull as is Banff.......you just can't lose no matter where you hike. They are getting hit with huge snow dumps now, so there will be snow at high elevation late into this summer....

I have lots of trip reports and pics of scramble/hikes available..as does Neil

 

[Jasper]

Stanley Mitchel Hut and the Ice Line Trail

A nice 3 day trip is to hike into the Stanley Mitchel hut. Spend the next day relaxing and exploring. On the third day, hike out by the Ice Line Trail with its spectaculare views of the valley.

If you get to the hut early, you may have a chance of getting the 'private room.' Other than that it is mattresses on the floor in the loft. Kitchen is communal so bring your own food.

I highly recommend staying at the ACC Hostel in Lake Louise. Price is right and you can do your own cooking or use the restaurant with a great beer selection.

 

[Stuart]

RE: Bear spray and bells

Suggestions: Carry bear spray; instead of bells, stay together on the trail and make sure you clap or talk as you come around bends in the trail. In general, make yourselves heard on the trail so the bears know you are in the neighborhood. Before you hit the trail, we always checked with the local ranger station for an update on bear activity.

 

[Neil]

I totally agree with the Scrambling book by Kane. Start with the easy ones and graduate to moderate. The hard ones are very hard. It took me a few scrambles to catch his drift with the way he describes routes. Additionally, there are some really great individual's web sites that supplement Kane's classic and there is a scrambling forum. I hooked up with and scrambled with a guy from that forum and he was excellent. I learned a lot about route finding from him. Route finding is a key skill to develop on scrambles. These are very big mountains (duh!) and going off route can spell disaster.

The 14ers have a lot of notoriety but the 155 scrambles in Kane's book will blow your mind.

Get and study, not just read, Herrero's seminal work on Bear Attacks.

I never use pepper spray in the CDN Rockies but prefer to sound off an air horn that I re-pressurize with a small bicycle pump. Most of what I do out there now resembles peakbagging à la NE. Ie. not backpacking trips but day trips with cold beer at the end of them. The difference is that you get yourself above tree-line nice and quick.