Beginner Winter Hiking in the Whites

[--M.]

Really great stuff here!

I'm surprised that Pinkham Notch & the Tuckerman Ravine Trail to Hermit Lake haven't been mentioned yet. This is a section of trail that will always be packed out, so you can experiment with light traction and (almost certainly) leave the snowshoes either for higher or just back in the car. Plus, if you have the interest and talent, you can push on to several options, including the Ravine headwall and the Lion Head Trail. Both of these are shlepped by woefully inept skiers (probably awesome skiers, just not great mountaineers) under horrifying circumstances (sometimes with predictable results), so you can do it right if you wish and not risk your life. Conditions rule.

Also, fitness is king in winter. Everything's heavier, so you need both aerobic and grunt strength, especially in your back, thighs and shoulders. For me, there's trail training (by which time you're already too late) and getting to the gym in November and December. Cross-country/back-country skiing on these approaches will test both thighs and upper body; using poles and snowshoes on the steeps will test you all over. If you're already in shape, it IS the night-&-day difference between misery and ecstasy on a cold winter day.

Pierce is among the best first hikes in the Whites, because
==The approach is comprised of getting out of your car and hiking;
==There's plenty of company for moral support;
==There's progressive, easy grades on which to learn snow-shoe walking (it's easy);
==Treeline is like walking through a door: you can walk ten feet from shelter to the blow and be safe;
==If things are good, the options open up amazingly from the top onward;
==It's out-&-back, so you know how far the car is.

Winter hiking is THE BEST, and is one of those things (like travel abroad) that one simply must do in this life. Best wishes!

edit: By the way, that Champney Falls Chocorua hike really is a winter wonderland, great suggestions! The scramble at the top isn't for everyone, however, but you can stop when you wish. Good one!

 

[Tom Rankin]

Chip, sorry but I agree with Tim. This woman felt much better when we lent her a pair of micro spikes. Just a sample set of one, but I have seen it before as well, just not so pronounced.

 

[DayTrip]

Don't forget the poles!
Have fun.

I can't second that enough!

I never used hiking/trekking poles up until last year. I love buying new gadgets and gear and I saw so many people with them nowadays so I tried a pair. I NEVER go without them now. They help with balance for things like large step downs, river crossings, preventing falls on slips, getting up out of the deeper snow on snow shoes much the way a downhill skier would roll onto their skis, etc. They also help distribute the load of large step ups and downs off the knees by sharing with the upper body (which is a huge plus if you have less than great knee ligaments like me) and can be invaluable if you get hurt. I broke my ankle in Sphinx col last August and without poles I seriously doubt I would have been able to walk the 4+ miles back down to my car without being able to lean on the poles. I was amazed at how well they took my weight without the adjustment clamps slipping one fraction of an inch! (I weigh about 220 lbs before gear). This is money very well spent in my opinion. My pair was $99 and they have gotten HEAVY use over the past two years. You can spend a little less (or a lot more) but I highly recommend.

I'd also reinforce what everyone has said about the conditioning. Snow shoeing definitely requires more effort and takes MORE TIME than regular hiking (more so on ascent - I found descending can go pretty fast in the right snow conditions) so be sure to figure that into your trip times and turn-around decisions. And that is for "typical" conditions. If you run into large drifts, icy rocks, etc and have to switch between traction options it really adds to the total time. Need to be very aware of that when the days are short.

And speaking of the short days make sure you have some sort of LIGHT SOURCE too. Even a well planned and executed hike in the winter months can end in the dark. Sunset times are early enough already and cloud cover/weather and where you are in valleys in relation to the sun can bring the darkness even faster than you had planned.

 

[bikehikeskifish]

Bring two light sources in winter. The second one can either be a full replacement, or enough to see to change batteries in the primary (i.e., an iPhone, a pinch light, a key ring AAA flashlight, etc.)

In fact, never go hiking without a light source. It's the number one NH F&G cited reason for SAR. It's the only required piece of gear in Baxter State Park. Darkness after nightfall is entirely predictable, even in New England

Tim

 

[nartreb]

Lots of good suggestions. Pierce is a great first 4K and a great first winter 4k, but I'd stick with something shorter for your very first outing - leave 'em wanting more!

Mostly I'm just commenting to chime in on equipment, specifically lighting. There are certain tasks that are a real pain in the best of circumstances, and should be avoided in the winter unless you're snugly in a tent with a belly full of hot tea. Of course, these are the tasks that end up being of life-or-death importance when you're lost and cold, in bad weather after dark. Changing the batteries in a headlamp is one of the worst of those tasks. Luckily, you can avoid it completely. Carry two lamps, put new batteries in both at the beginning of the season. Buy them in two different colors so you always know which one is the "primary"; use that one exclusively until it runs low, and you'll always have more than enough juice in the secondary to get home.

 

[DougPaul]

I suggest that you take a course such as the AMC winter schools (both the Boston and NH chapters teach them*) or get some competent instruction (eg a certified guide). Winter hiking is a lot more than just 3-season hiking with snow and the risks can be much higher.

* Some college outing clubs also teach them.

While most of the suggestions in this thread are good, they are incomplete--there are massive gaps. Any decent course should cover everything, at least at a beginner level.

Organizations such as the AMC and some outing clubs run trips with competent leadership. Such leadership can greatly reduce the higher risks that beginners would otherwise face.

Doug

 

[Driver8]

Wife and I have decided to give winter hiking a go. I've been wanting to do it for years but she was intimidated by it. She finally mentioned it on her own the other day so I'm all in. We have done some snowshoeing but nothing with real elevation gain. What are people's suggestions for a good 1st winter hike that won't freak the little lady out but will give us a good idea as to what's involved physically and equipment-wise. I was initially thinking Welch-Dickey but not sure if there is a better choice.

A couple of near-4Ks in Vermont - Pico and Stratton - are worth mentioning. I think Pico might be the easiest near-4K you can do. From Sherburne Pass, across Rt. 4 from the Inn at Long Trail, you gain 1700' or so in about 2.5 miles. The old A.T./L.T. routing, the Sherburne Pass Trail goes about 2 miles until you catch the ski slopes. From there, the proper trail skirts along a ski run for 100 yards or so, then ducks left.

I summitted Pico this past April, the weekend after the resort closed, with plenty of snow on the mountain, especially above 3000'. With the minimal skiier traffic, I just continued up the ski trails rather than side-hilling it for 0.3 with the proper blue-blazed hiking trail, which continues left (southeast) until a GMC cabin, then turns right, ascending steeply, I gather. I just opted for the steep ascent part straight away - and the first 750' linear on the ski trail is quite steep, gains 200-250', I'd say.

Sherburne Pass Trail's grades are pretty gentle until the ski trail, and if it's safe, I'd recommend ascending straight to the summit along the side of the ski trail, which I think is called Summit Glades.

Anyhow, my point is, Pico is pretty easy, and the views from its summit are awesome. A nice reward for relatively little work. A good bridge to harder stuff.

I've done Stratton via the AT/LT twice, in fall and spring. I've not done it in winter, but it's quite gentle in its grades and will be sheltered from the wind for the most part if you come in from the south. It has one short somewhat steep stretch, from about 2800' to about 3000' in about 0.2 miles, but it is mild by comparison with the Whites. And the views, again, from the fire tower are majestic. If you start at the Forest Service Road (I think it's number 341) about a mile-ish east of the A.T. trailhead on Stratton-Arlington/Kelly Stand Road, you can shorten the trip and give yourselves an easy warm-up with a mile-ish walk on the gentle grades of the road. Your gain would be maybe 1600' over about 3.3 miles each way.

Stratton's forest from about 3200' to the summit is gorgeous and dense. I'd bet it would be particularly beautiful blanketed in white. I've just about talked myself into doing it by now!

Another advantage of Stratton vs. Pico in winter, in addition to being closer to Mass, where you come from, is that the usually hiked route faces south, so will be warmer and more sheltered in the winter. Pico faces north, which can make for some cold, biting winds, with less benefit from what sun you get, as I learned on my failed attempt of this past January 19, when I turned back after reaching the GMC cabin mentioned above in about 15 F temps with 40-50 mph wind gusts out of the NW when in the open areas of the ski trails.

PS: Be advised, from my limited winter hiking experience, that powdery snow, unless really well packed, on a 10%-plus grade is a much harder workout than the same trail in the warm parts of the year. It's a lot more work. Better with snowshoes than with light traction, but a harder workout than in summer in any event.

 

[Quint]

Thanks all so many great ideas and recommendations. We do have snowshoes already and have done some "walk in the woods" snowshoeing. They are MSR EVO. I also have Black Diamond crampons (still have to get the mrs. some). We don't have microspikes are these needed as well as crampons or are they a better alternative? We have lots of clothing for layering and hats, gloves, balaclava's, etc.

 

[erugs]

For many winter hikes, crampons are not needed. Microspikes do well in most situations. Crampons can have a slight learning curve with cautions. The primary caution is "Don't glissade while wearing them!" That's not a written Rule, but a good rule to follow for healthy/whole ankles.

 

[TJsName]

Unless you plan on doing a lot in the alpine zone (and really just the Presidential Range), crampons are likely overkill. Conversely, if you do go there, you're likely going to need them at some point. The trails in the woods stay soft enough that microspikes are sufficient. Knowing how to layer properly, and to manage those layers (and moisture) is super important. Sweating is very bad.

Also, I would suggest getting snow baskets for your poles. I was skeptical, but I caved and was glad I did. There is a certain feeling of helplessness when you expect your pole to keep you upright and it just keeps sliding further down into the snow.

 

[JCarter]

Actually "pointy traction devices" come in a wide range of pointy-ness. Microspikes are the "low end" and things like 10-point mountaineering crampons are the "high end". You'll probably find a dozen lengthy, heated threads somewhere here extolling the virtues of different spiky-things.

In my experience, Microspikes are best for thinnish ice/mixed ice/snow/rock. They're not "rigid" enough for thick, slick, steep flow ice, but in mixed conditions, the "points on chains" is an advantage.

Mountaineering snowshoes have built-in crampons that are good for some kinds of snow and ice conditions. But I find that on steep packed or icy trails, they tend to slip going downhill, because the grippy part is under your toe.

Then there's what people sometimes call "Hillsounds" -- they're sort of like Microspikes, but the points are on a plate rather than free-floating, and they're a little longer and sharper (to confuse things, Kahtoola now makes a similar product, and Hillsounds has started to make a Microspike-like product)

Last year I added the Hillsound Trail Crampon Pro (which is different than the "Hillsound") to the mix. It has longer spikes and an anti-balling bubble. It isn't a "real" crampon (no front points), but will work on a non-rigid boot. It uses a rigid strap system rather than the rubber loops of the lighter weight options. If you try to walk on bare rock, they're a challenge, but they give a vastly superior grip, especially on descents, compared to Microspikes.

So, I typically have 3 out of 4: microspikes or hillsounds, and hillsound TCPs, plus snowshoes. It is important to have spares in your hiking party, since all of the above "rubber band with chain" designs can break unexpectedly and catastrophically.

There are probably a few trails/peaks in the Whites where you "need" a true 10-point crampon vs. the TCP, but I've been lucky enough not to find them.

 

[Quint]

Awesome just found and excuse to go to REI wife will be delighted. Thanks all for your inputs, we haven't planned our first trip out yet and will take a look at all the suggested 1st hikes and decide from there. Would really like a nice snow cover when we do go our so might wait for a snow storm. Also have to make sure the wife doesn't book up every weekend with social events before the holidays.

 

[WhiteMTHike]

I think a good hike for any beginner during any season is Mt. Willard.

 

[Mike P.]

Hip abductors, adductors and flexors will often stand up and get noticed the first time each year one goes out in snowshoes

Tim

Big time! I remember the first time I went out for a two or three mile trip in deep unbroken powder (one of the 1996 big storms on a Farm in CT, no trails) The next day, walking to the shower, I was fine, however, I thought I was going to die picking my foot up high enough to clear the tub.

 

[Mike P.]

Probably more questions than answers, many good suggestions.

So you've done some snowshoeing in the woods, any open exposed areas in the cold?

Three ways to get more experience, take the AMC or ADK winter skills class, join one of the AMC or ADK chapters & go on their late fall & easier winter hikes, train yourselves by doing small places first & ones close to the car so mistakes are learning experiences not a rescue. (in Eastern MA, things like Wachusett, Blue Hills, & then southern NH like Pack Monadnock, & Monadnock)

From what I hear, this Sunday may be a good training day for hanging out in the open for a while & seeing how your glove/mitten combo's work, your footwear & your hats/balaclava's.

Assume all that gear you have is wool or fleece no cotton.

Have read great ideas on lights (more than one)
Glove layers a must, you want to be able to pull zippers, tie boots, open packs & eat wearing glove liners & then work on doing many things wearing fleece gloves. (We did a basic square knot in a Webelo meeting & our Den Chief, an older scout did his behind his back so I brought in overmitts & had him try it with the overmitts on. With some practice he did it, they weren’ the bulky ones, just the ones I use in spring & fall.)

Fingers get real cold, real fast below zero with a nice stiff breeze, going to bare hands should be an emergency only

As I do much of my hiking either solo or as the person who can't get hurt, (don't want to have to rely on kids to rescue me) I usually go to place I'm familiar with. It's also a good tip, things can look & feel very different in the winter. Near treeline, scrub and cairns covered in rime & drifts look pretty similar, above treeline where summer trails are marked with paint, those markings are pretty useless.

You want to layer up just before you poke your head up above treeline, not afterwards.

One of my coldest most exposed winter hikes was a North Twin trip. (up the North Twin trail, the one with limited views except in a couple of spots because of 7-9 foot trees, yeas, that one.) I had been on South Carter the previous winter with a decent winter view due to a lot of snow on the top but failed to factor this into my planning. Well with 4-5 feet of snow, those 7-9 foot trees only kept my knees warm & protected from a decent 35-40 MPH wind. What I had planned as a protected trip was one of my more exposed ones. (While not true, I'd had avoided places like Franconia Ridge and most of the Presidentials on days like that)

I'd start slow first & take the AMC course. Hiking with your wife (and kids) can be a lot of fun, watching one tumble down a steep trail feels far worse than watching a friend do it. (My wife caught a crampon on the wrong part of the White Arrow trail, luckily I was ahead of her & stopped a much longer fall.) I might be able to get her on a rail trail in winter now.

 

[Kevin Rooney]

...Three ways to get more experience, take the AMC or ADK winter skills class, join one of the AMC or ADK chapters & go on their late fall & easier winter hikes, train yourselves by doing small places first & ones close to the car so mistakes are learning experiences not a rescue.

August & September are the best times to sign up for these classes. Both the NH & Boston Chapter series have been underway for about a month.

 

[sierra]

You want to learn to hike in the winter? Buy a few good books on the subject and read them. Go to the outdoor stores, (Carefull at EMS) and ask about the gear. Buy a AMC White Mtn Guide, study the maps and pick a mountain off the 4k list that sounds doable, then go hike it. Pay attention as you hike, whats working, whats not, what do you wish you had? What isnt doing what it should be doing. Hike until you summit or you think your in over your head. A few years from now, you will know what your doing, if your still around.

 

[erugs]

Sierra - Not sure what your feelings are about EMS, and perhaps this is not the thread to get into that, especially since I am a fan of the store, even with the new ownership.

Instead of "careful at EMS" I'd say, shop around would be a more suitable suggestion. I have bought my favorite hiking pants recently at EMS, my new winter jacket is from Columbia, my winter boots came from Cabela, I bought my socks at Kittery Trading Post and a really nice vest at REI. My new cap came from Lukla, Nepal, where I got it for $7, even though it says North Face (I doubt it really is) and my knock-off Buff ($3) is from there, too. In addition to books, read magazines such as Backpacker (and check out their gear ads). There is also a lot of information online. This site probably has a thread on every individual topic in this reply alone!

 

[sierra]

Sierra - Not sure what your feelings are about EMS, and perhaps this is not the thread to get into that, especially since I am a fan of the store, even with the new ownership.

Instead of "careful at EMS" I'd say, shop around would be a more suitable suggestion. I have bought my favorite hiking pants recently at EMS, my new winter jacket is from Columbia, my winter boots came from Cabela, I bought my socks at Kittery Trading Post and a really nice vest at REI. My new cap came from Lukla, Nepal, where I got it for $7, even though it says North Face (I doubt it really is) and my knock-off Buff ($3) is from there, too. In addition to books, read magazines such as Backpacker (and check out their gear ads). There is also a lot of information online. This site probably has a thread on every individual topic in this reply alone!

I find EMS sales clerks to be quite hit or miss giving advice, they want to sell but do not always give great advice. I prefer in this order the following stores. IME, ( not great on stock, but great on advice), Ragged mountain Equipment, ( great gear selection and great sales people), REI, good gear selection and well trained associates.

 

[lamerunner]

Some great suggestions so far. I have a couple of ideas also. Mr Willard, Avalon, and Pierce are all sound options in the Crawford Notch area. THey tend to get broken out soon after a storm and are moderate in terms of length and steepness. Pierce requires a little more fitness, but it is technically very easy and has the view factor. Other options I would suggest include, in Pinkham Notch, the TUckerman Ravine trail to Hermit Lake-- snowshoes not always needed but good place to practice and also a great view once you get to Hermit Lake, Lowe's Bald Spot off Old Jackson Road ( there are a couple of spots which get icy), North and/or South Doublehead in Jackson, Imp Face, 19 Mile Brook trail as far as you want up to Carter Hut ( 8 miles RT ), Kearsarge North, Middle or Peaked Mtns in North Conway, Bridal Veil Falls or Bald Peak ( Franconia, back side of Cannon).

I saw someone suggested Smarts Mtn. I have to disagree with that one. Admittedly, the day I tried it was soon after a weird rain/ice storm, but unless there is a substantial snow dump, it is a wet and icy area. I was basically ice climbing in microspikes and gave up just short of the summit; even then, I fell once on the way down. I am a very experienced winter hiker and have solid mountaineering and ice climbing experiennce. I heard a similar story from a friend.

In terms of equipment, I would start with microspikes and snowshoes. I don't think a beginner be hikes which require full crampons-- and those are few in the Whites unless we have major icing. Headlamps a very good idea. I once went up Mt Ascutney in November, starting early afternoon and figuring I would be done before dark. I figured wrong. I made it out but was very mad at myself for not having a light; very picky walking the last few tenths of a mile, and I would have felt very stupid if I had gotten lost or hurt. On the plus side, the parking area was also pitch dark, so I could change my clothes in peace

Also, bring spare gloves and some insulation for the gloves. You will sweat on the way up and might also grab snowy things, resulting in wet gloves and a cold descent if you don't have a spare pair or two. I often will also bring old ski gloves to put on if I get really cold at the start of the descent or while stopped.

Happy hiking! It is a wonderful season...