Chamonix-Mont Blanc Massif: June 2009

[Steve-o]

That was the best TR i've ever read Gig !
Took me 2 nights to read. Now for the pics!
So many pics from this trip, it will keep me busy for a while.

 

[Craig]

Great report Giggy. Sound like an excellent time.
Sorry to hear Sue couldn't continue with the team on summit day.

You'll have memories for a lifetime from this adventure.
Nicely done team.

 

[giggy]

Thanks everyone for the kind words and the ton of green squares....not that I care about the greenies, but the comments that came with them were nice

I can't thank everyone individually or I would online all night. It was a killer trip.
The report was easy to write and gave me something to do on my commutes into boston via train...

I just feel lucky to do this stuff and find some time for it.

One step closer to my dream climb: Liberty Ridge on Rainier.

 

[chinooktrail]

Wow.

Incrediable TR Gig, I felt like I was there with you all!

And I also wish I had been there with you all!

So glad you all worked together as a team, and refrained yourselves from pushing anyone off the knife edge.

Ok, so maybe it was a good thing I wasn't there!

As always, all of you coming home safe and sound and happy is the most important thing.

Nice job to all of you!

 

[Gris]

Ha

i chuckled nd shook my head when i saw the pic looking up the rope from down n the crevasse, only Arm

looks like a new avatar to me...

 

[Motabobo]

Nice job everyone ! Who needs a yellow summit after such an interesting route ? Amazing TR, pictures. Now, I wonder, how can leaf support arm's weight all by herself ? I'll have to revise my laws of physics here

 

[J.Dub]

Awesome trip and brilliant TR, Gig!!

Me = jealous.

 

[chinooktrail]

Yeah, leaf was definately wearing her 'super hero' cape on that one!

Way to go Courtney!

 

[leaf]

ha! thanks. when he fell in, i got pulled backwards (already in self arrest-gig too). it was a little straining once gig got up to throw in an anchor and head down but only because my feet got popped out of their little buckets I kicked in -snow was relatively soft-, so once i re-kicked in my feet well, it was actually quite easy to hold him. plus i think arm ended up finding his way to a small ledge inside the crevasse. so then after that, no biggie. only a few minutes of really holding him.

 

[Craig]

Good thing for Arm, Courtney hasn’t read “Touching the Void”

 

[giggy]

ha! thanks. when he fell in, i got pulled backwards (already in self arrest-gig too). it was a little straining once gig got up to throw in an anchor and head down but only because my feet got popped out of their little buckets I kicked in -snow was relatively soft-, so once i re-kicked in my feet well, it was actually quite easy to hold him. plus i think arm ended up finding his way to a small ledge inside the crevasse. so then after that, no biggie. only a few minutes of really holding him.

and its quite surprising too - how much the friction of the rope over the snow and lip can help too. I think when the stuff happens, the mind really reverts to "training" mode and you do what you need to do to get it done.

When I was trying to get Arm's pack out - for a minute, I didn't think it as going to happen as it was just at my reach where I couldn't get a good grip and angle to use my strenght to get it out. It was at a really tough angle to get at it...But - you just give it your all and do it and after I was able to get it over the lip (about 2 or 3 feet down from the surface), Frodo was able to pull it out with the rope..

There is certainly something to..."hey thats my friend down there" and I will do what it takes to get him out"...:

I think this is why on a climbing trip like this - you build these bonds with people your roped too - I never got that type of bond hiking with people. Its odd, I haven't seen Tmax in a while (too long actually!), but we got this bond from being rope up together on Rainier 4 years ago... odd.. can't explain it. Same with Skimom (Rainier), Nif (Adams), Stoney (Adams), etc..at least for me - this is how it is...

 

[dr_wu002]

I think this is why on a climbing trip like this - you build these bonds with people your roped too - I never got that type of bond hiking with people. Its odd, I haven't seen Tmax in a while (too long actually!), but we got this bond from being rope up together on Rainier 4 years ago... odd.. can't explain it. Same with Skimom (Rainier), Nif (Adams), Stoney (Adams), etc..at least for me - this is how it is...

I definitely think we bonded while camping at Ethan Pond last year. Definitely.

-Dr. Wu

 

[giggy]

I definitely think we bonded while camping at Ethan Pond last year. Definitely.

-Dr. Wu

ohhhhh yea.....

 

[cbcbd]

you build these bonds with people your roped too

That's what I keep telling my girlfriend! If she'd only listen. Some good bondage never did anyone any harm... most times.

 

[darren]

Great TR. Great to see that you all had such an awesome time.

Did you haul up all of Arm's pack, or did he pull out a sixer to hang on to while he waited to be hauled up? Or at least a 22oz Fin du Monde...

- darren

ps: leaf - I believe it is an Asian custom that makes you now responsible for everything that Arm does for the rest of his life...you better keep him on the straight and narrow.

 

[SherpaKroto]

Simply incredible TR of a simply incredible T. To say that I am envious of all of you is the understatement of the year. To say that I am thrilled and proud to count all of you as friends is the second understatement of the year.

Thanks for bringing back our little bass playing buddy and his spinner sidekick

As for what beer Arm was carrying, my bet is Maudite.

BTW, you guys/gals flat out rock. Keep living the dream!

 

[giggy]

Simply incredible TR of a simply incredible T. To say that I am envious of all of you is the understatement of the year. To say that I am thrilled and proud to count all of you as friends is the second understatement of the year.

Thanks for bringing back our little bass playing buddy and his spinner sidekick

As for what beer Arm was carrying, my bet is Maudite.

BTW, you guys/gals flat out rock. Keep living the dream!

SK - trust me when I say - you were with us in spirit for sure... never forget Aug 2005!!!

 

[Silverfox]

That is one fantastic adventure..thanks for sharing the details and terrific picture

congrats to all for the incredible climb and wise decisions

 

[prino]

A totally captivating trip report Giggy. Thanks!

You guys were so cool with the rescue of Arm from the crevasse, and so was he. I could just visualize him with camera in one hand and Fosters lager in the other, calmly waiting for you to pull him up.

You made the right decision about turning back and the old phrase "The journey is the destination" rings true here.

You mention the pre-dawn sky being an awesome and humbling experience and after having made an early start on Cascade Mt. in the Daks this week couldn't agree with you more. It truly is the best time of day to be in the mountains.

Thanks again!

 

[donna]

WOW! Best ever!