Chic-Chocs, Baxter State Park, Gulf Hagas

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arm

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Location
New Hampshire
twelve days of summer ... so many cool places, so little time

after looking at Quebec maps for years, gaging just how far beyond BSP it would take to visit there, it seemed so far away

when i was 19, i spent a few months living with my Dad, who was looking to sail the Bahamas for a while ... we spent most of our time cruising around Abaco Islands

we heard about sailing regattas in the Exumas, but never sailed there ... like Gaspe, it seemed like it was just out of reach

finally made time to extend a BSP trip, sandwiching a couple weekends in Baxter State Park around a visit to Gulf Hagas in Maine and Parc National de la Gaspesie in Quebec

started with a day hike in Gulf Hagas, the "Grand Canyon of Maine"

checked in at KI Jo-Mary Gatehouse near Katahdin Iron Works, paid the $9 day use fee, checked out Iron Works sites, then drove to the parking lot near the AT crossing of Pleasant River ... last few miles of this dirt road were in rough shape

took off my boots to cross knee-deep Pleasant River, then followed the AT to Rim Trail, negotiating slick roots and rocks along West Branch of Pleasant River, with great views of Screw Auger Falls, Jaws, Buttermilk Falls, Billings Falls, Stairs Falls, and high cliffs that plummet to the river below

after hiking four miles to the Head of the Gulf, i walked back on Pleasant River tote road, an easy walk through the woods, then drove to Baxter State Park, where Jean, Timmus and i had campsites reserved for the weekend

a local Native American Tribe reserves Katahdin Stream Campground every labor day weekend, an annual spiritual journey where they run or canoe to basecamp ... they played music and told stories while we were there

next day, Timmus and Jean hiked Travelers, while i set up camp at Abol Campground, where we'd tent the next two nights ... decided to hike Katahdin via Abol Slide to stretch the legs on a sunny day, checking out Chimney Slide for a future trip

next day we hiked OJI ... after a brief dice game (which Timmus lost) we decided to walk through the Klondike until we reached The Owl ... we decided to cut our loop over Katahdin and the Brothers short, hiking down The Owl, back to basecamp for dinner

found a mouse running around inside my car, who had helped himself to bagels in the trunk of my car ... beer cannisters recommended in BSP

Timmus and Jean headed home the next morning ... i headed north until people started talking funny

next morning, i entered Parc National de la Gaspesie, home of the Chic-Choc Mountains ... weather turned grim as i drove into the Parc, so i hiked Mont Xalibu, past Lac aux Americains, hoping the next day would clear for a loop hike over Mont Albert

grabbed seafood dinner at a pub in Ste-Anne-des-Monts, then stayed at "Le Gris" Hut in the park

next morning, weather was grim, so i hiked Mont Jacques-Cartier

the Parc limits access to this peak, 10AM - 4PM, due to Caribou who live on this mountain, who were designated as endangered years ago

if you ride the shuttle from Centre d'interpretation, plan on spending a full day riding the shuttle, hiking five miles round-trip, then waiting to ride the shuttle back

i drove my car 25 miles on the dirt road leading to the access road for Jacques-Cartier, to save time, so i could reach Forillon that night

rode the bus to the trailhead then hiked up the easy trail to Lac a Rene, under snowy skies ... felt good to walk on snow again

Jacques-Cartier is a tame hike, but Chic-Chocs seem like they'd be a great Winter destination ... would love to ski through the park

ate lunch in the summit tower, then spotted caribou grazing on my way down as skies cleared ... drove along Gaspe Coastline, checking out cool views of coastside cliffs, lighthouses and riverside homes in villages along the St Lawrence River, which felt more like an ocean

set up camp in Forillon, hoping to hike or kayak the next day, but decided to make progress along the coastal drive, to meet friends in Millinocket that night

road construction (travaux) slowed progress along this route, as well as sharing roads with the World's Most Dangerous Drivers (aka: old men wearing hats) ... but none of this crawled under my skin, shedding stress like a van driver in Argentina passing cars around blind corners

got a real sense of freedom, taking this vacation one day at a time, not a worry in the world ... wearing a mile wide smile, driving along scenic coastline, loving life ... at times the Gaspe Coast reminded me of Acadia, stretched out over hundreds of miles

drove back through Limestone Maine, where we camped for Phish festivals years ago ... small village these days, much like villages i'd driven through all week ... many village folk spend time sitting on their front porches, being neighborly, time spent better than sitting on the couch watching TV

met friends in Millinocket, then went out for dinner at a mexican restaurant named La Casa for Millinocket Beer Night ... kitchen was closed, but we hung out for liquid refreshments ... Viva La Casa !

next morning we ate breakfast at the AT Cafe, then backpacked into BSP for a cool four night trip

spent two nights at Russell Pond, two nights at Wassataquoik Lake Island

talked to the RP Ranger, who seems allergic to "stuff left on summits" and asked us to remove anything we found on summits we'd wander to

we followed an old route to a nearby pond, then walked up to a scenic outlook uphill from the pond

next day Stev-o and i canoed a few ponds on our way to Wassataquoik, while FF and TG hiked to Northwest Plateau to stretch the legs

spent the next couple days canoeing lakes, hiking trails beyond lakes, and enjoying remote areas beyond Katahdin

BSP forest was green when we left on sept 11 ... foliage is probably kicking in pretty soon

fun stuff !

posted a few pics
 
arm said:
found a mouse running around inside my car, who had helped himself to bagels in the trunk of my car ... beer cannisters recommended in BSP
Wow, things are bad up there.

:)

Sounds like a great adventure to several places I want to visit some day.
 
Pretty cool trip Arm !

Did you forget your camera on Xalibu ? I don't see any pics :confused:

Chic-Chocs are great, I need to go back. I just wish the drive could be shorter (9 hours from mtl, same as Baxter).

So did you bumped into my parents ? They are still there you know, lucky them !!!!
 
arm said:
we followed an old route to a nearby pond, then walked up to a scenic outlook uphill from the pond

Great trip report!... that scenic outlook is one of my favorites.
(did you see my 3 stone "cairn"? Hope it didn't ruin your wilderness experience)


;)
 
Arm, that's awesome. The freedom of the northern country... no worries, no where to be - it's just a great thing and I can picture the smile now.

arm said:
beer cannisters recommended in BSP
I would say they should be required. But then again, I'm a fan or BSP regulations.

arm said:
but Chic-Chocs seem like they'd be a great Winter destination ... would love to ski through the park
I am looking into following some folks going up there for a week to do some BC ski touring in March... eh?

edit:
arm said:
spent two nights at Russell Pond, two nights at Wassataquoik Lake Island
Jealous - doesn't get better than that
 
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People often discuss ultimate dream vacations that range the world and are often surprised when I describe a trip similar to your Canada leg.

Mine would also include Gros Morne and headed towards Caubvik (but not up it!).

I also prefer loose plans that vary with weather conditions and my mood.
 
Ahhh....glad to see you made it up to the Gaspe. Easy to understand why I spend so much time up there all these years.
One of the hardest things when returning to the States every year is to stop driving like that when I'm back here.
 
This reminds me that there is so much to explore in CAN and it is really not too far away :) Thanks for the TR and pics Arm!
 
arm said:
found a mouse running around inside my car, who had helped himself to bagels in the trunk of my car ... beer cannisters recommended in BSP

the Parc limits access to this peak, 10AM - 4PM, due to Caribou who live on this mountain, who were designated as endangered years ago

... felt good to walk on snow again

Jacques-Cartier is a tame hike, but Chic-Chocs seem like they'd be a great Winter destination ... would love to ski through the park

ate lunch in the summit tower, then spotted caribou grazing on my way down as skies cleared ... QUOTE]


Fantastic trip report and pics, arm!

I picked up on your same (Freudian?) slip as Dave Mesky (i.e., beer cannisters). Or, was Mats there with you? :)

I have only been on a glacial geology field trip across some of the summits during the fall season, but one of my students skied as many gullies as he could find in the Gaspesie in June 2006. But, perhaps better to go in April as other back-country ski friends have done, when one can back-country ski into the cirques rather than hike?
 
Dr. Dasypodidae said:
arm said:
found a mouse running around inside my car, who had helped himself to bagels in the trunk of my car ... beer cannisters recommended in BSP

the Parc limits access to this peak, 10AM - 4PM, due to Caribou who live on this mountain, who were designated as endangered years ago

... felt good to walk on snow again

Jacques-Cartier is a tame hike, but Chic-Chocs seem like they'd be a great Winter destination ... would love to ski through the park

ate lunch in the summit tower, then spotted caribou grazing on my way down as skies cleared ... QUOTE]


Fantastic trip report and pics, arm!

I picked up on your same (Freudian?) slip as Dave Mesky (i.e., beer cannisters). Or, was Mats there with you? :)

I have only been on a glacial geology field trip across some of the summits during the fall season, but one of my students skied as many gullies as he could find in the Gaspesie in June 2006. But, perhaps better to go in April as other back-country ski friends have done, when one can back-country ski into the cirques rather than hike?


Whoops, I forgot to comment on the Gaspesie caribou, some of whom (their ancestors) were imported to the Tableland on Mount Katahdin in the 1960s as an experiment; within a couple of years, the last BSP caribou was seen heading northnortheast across the County (Aroostook) towards his/her homeland.
 
Skiing in the Gaspesie

Arm, look up the Sepac web site and figure out where you want to go. If you want to ski further into the Chic Chocs, like Mont Logan, you may want to hire the daily snowmobile driver to haul in your gear and beer :)
You can do day trips out of the Le Gite du Mont Albert. A bit pricey for a night, but it includes breakfast and dinner, and a bag lunch if you desire.

I've been 5 times in winter. The backcountry skiing is fab. I've summited Mont Jacques Cartier and Logan on skis. Not to mention many other smaller mountains.

You can also do a cabin tour which is a great way to see the park interior and summit a few peaks. No need to haul a pulk, hire the snowmobile and carry a day pack.

If you really plan on doing some serious skiing then I would recommend wearing avalanch beacons, and carrying a shovel and probe. You can get the twice weekly avalanche report free via email. The mountains are steep enough to slide, and they frequently do. Be safe.

Nadine
 
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