Climbing Rainier in May-June

[SidS]

Hi all,
I was hoping to climb Rainier with RMI this summer. The only dates available (I know I am late to book ) are May, June first week and September.
Seems like the weather is more favorable in July (weather, storms etc etc).

Has someone been there during the May - early June period? In your opinion, should I go ahead and book in that period or should I just not bother and work on getting there next year in the right period.

Thanks for your input!

-Sid

 

[Chip]

Welcome to VFTT.

Me and Paradox summited the crater rim with IMG the first week in June. This was their 2 night program (Muir and Ingraham Flats) after a 2 day mountaineering class with them and a day hike to Muir on our own (recommend only do this on bluebird day with active, reliable GPS). There's more snow and colder temps then, which can help and hurt the effort. I liked being there early, but I prefer the cold. I'd say go this year and go with IMG (better food), but lots of people like RMI. Decide soon or it won't be an issue. Here's my pics.

 

[Chugach001]

True, historically the weather is more settled in mid-summer than early summer. I've been on the mountain in February and July, July is definitely preferred.

I'm with Chip, I think you'll be fine. I would go early as it will be more pristine and less beat-out. By mid-summer it looks like a beater trail and has a crowded well-used feel.

Sorry, don't know anything about the guide services.

 

[Nif]

What Chip said....

 

[J.Dub]

Since a September date is an option, I'm guessing you're planning the DC (Disappoinment Cleaver) route, as most of the other routes will be pretty melted out by then. If the guide service offers September climbs, then they must feel confident that the climb can be successful, though you may want to get their statistics comparing September vs. May attempts.

While either date can work, I'll give a slight preference for May, though it is a bit early in the season and you'll be at the mercy of the spring snowpack.

My partner and I tried the Kautz route in mid-June last year and got turned round due to high avy risk (the result of a wetter than normal spring that left the Kautz Ice Chute full of 30' of snow ). Trip report here. We went with IMG, which we found to be excellent, though RMI also has a good reputation.

 

[Aviarome]

I climbed with RMI this past year and thought they were absolutely fantastic. They have excellent guides, including Dave Hahn who's summitted Everest more than anyone else (besides sherpas), Brent Okita who's summitted Rainier over 400 times, Ed Viesturs who needs no intro, and others.

I climbed via Emmons in late July, but I initially wanted to climb earlier in the season. Although the weather is usually milder, the trails are a little more beat up and dirtier, and it's easier to predict what equipment you need earlier in the season, ie, the more burlier stuff, and not both the burlier and lighter stuff.

It seems like you're doing the regular DC/Ingraham route, but if time and money allows, I would highly recommend doing the expedition skills seminar. You learn a lot more, and the pace is more enjoyable. As for route, I also highly recommend the Emmons or Kautz, depending on what your goals are. The Kautz is a little more technical, but the Emmons route gives you the "whole" mountain experience, traveling through the forests at the base of the mountain before going up the mountain. And the crevasses on the Emmons are just like big mountain crevasses like on Denali. The DC route, you'll be able to carry less due to the fact you can stay at Muir, but Muir is typically very noisy and dirty.

Regardless, it will be a lot of fun. Feel free to PM me if you want more information

 

[SidS]

Thank you all for the quick replies!

A spot opened up yesterday and I got in for July.

I would go early as it will be more pristine and less beat-out. By mid-summer it looks like a beater trail and has a crowded well-used feel.

I am thinking, as this would be my first "winter" hike outside the Whites it will all be new and fun (maybe a little lesser as you mention).

...planning the DC (Disappoinment Cleaver) route, as most of the other routes will be pretty melted out by then.

Yes, it is the DC route.

...I would highly recommend doing the expedition skills seminar. You learn a lot more, and the pace is more enjoyable. As for route, I also highly recommend the Emmons or Kautz...

Being my first "big" hike, I want to keep it simple. There will be lots to learn I am sure either way as you mention. The expedition skills seminar does seem very informative. Will keep an eye out for this class as I continue climbing.

Again, thank-you all for the prompt replies

 

[Dr. Dasypodidae]

If possible, you might want to spend a week or so at altitude in Colorado or Wyoming, which will make your Rainier climb a lot easier. Of course, schedules and airline itineraries might not allow that.

 

[dr_wu002]

If possible, you might want to spend a week or so at altitude in Colorado or Wyoming, which will make your Rainier climb a lot easier. Of course, schedules and airline itineraries might not allow that.

Doing the 7 Summits would be a good way to acclimatize too, one would assume. At least according to Jen Gross.

-Dr. Wu

 

[Chip]

I don't know the stats, but I'd bet the vast majority who fail to summit something the size of Rainier (other than being turned back by dangerous conditions, like J.Dub), fail due to improper conditioning and/or lack of experience with their gear regarding it's fit and use in those conditions. Our day hike to Muir probably helped, but I'm sure we would have made it regardless, and the 2 in our group who didn't, wouldn't have, regardless.

 

[Paradox]

A spot opened up yesterday and I got in for July.

Hopefully you will catch some wildflowers!