Coleman peak 1 stove

[teejay]

My bad

I stand corrected. There's more than one type of Peak 1 stove. Mine, model 450-700, has a tank that is separate from the stove burner that connects with a 6-8" flexible tube. I haven't had any experience with the model that MadRiver has but I do know that the replacement pump units available in stores state on the packaging that they fit all Coleman Stoves, except Peak 1. It sounds like MadRiver's stove has a pump similar in design to Coleman's camp stoves, but I suspect the bore of the pump is smaller.

From what others have said, if the stove does flare up, like mine does, just shut off the main valve and let it burn. That will heat the generator. As the flame dies, slowly open the main valve and it should burn without flaring because the fuel is being vaporized in the hot generator before it reaches the burner.

teejay

teejay

 

[Chip]

1. Maybe.
2. Not if you don't leave it lit while you sleep (but possibly while you're lighting it . . . )
3. As the Zen Stove Master says, "Another drawback with the popular Coleman single unit stoves is that if overfilled, they may leak liquid fuel from the top of the stove and cause a huge fireball. Coleman stoves are probably the stove most likely to be thrown into a lake." I'm not sure whether it's overfilling at fault, and I lack sufficient skin in the game to risk a test. (Rather keep all the skin I've got at the moment . . . )

Great site. I'm liking the looks of the "Borde Bomb". Yikes !

"The rugged 19oz Optimus Svea and 23oz Hunter stoves are self pressurizing and use a wick to draw fuel to the burner while the stove preheats."

I'm not familiar with the self pressurizing/wick feature of the Svea. Anybody care to explain that ?

Some 8R's had a tank pump, but you'd still need to bleed some fuel into the cup under the burner for the real pressurization, I believe. I never had a pump with mine. I just did the eye-dropper thing.

 

[DougPaul]

Some 8R's had a tank pump, but you'd still need to bleed some fuel into the cup under the burner for the real pressurization, I believe. I never had a pump with mine. I just did the eye-dropper thing.

My 8R didn't come with a pump. It was purchased as an add-on. The stove needed to be primed with or without the pump--pumping and bleeding was simply more convenient than using an external source of priming fuel.

The pump made the stove more usable/reliable in the cold, but like any other self-pressurizing stove you still had to make sure that you didn't overheat the tank and cause the pressure relief valve to open. (I'll admit that I like the unheated tank stoves (eg MSRs) to avoid that risk.)

I'm not familiar with the self pressurizing/wick feature of the Svea. Anybody care to explain that ?

The wick just serves to get liquid fuel up into the feeder tube/gas generator. Heat in the gas generator evaporates the fuel and the valve and orifice only have to deal with gaseous fuel. Overheating the feeder tube/gas generator can char the wick which then has to be replaced. The 8R also has a wick.

The self-pressurizing is simply due to heating of the gas tank--the enclosed air expands and fuel evaporates, both of which increase the pressure in the tank. A cold tank stove requires a pump to pressurize the tank.

One reason that many of the MSR stoves are hard to simmer* is that the control valve controls the flow of (cold) liquid fuel while the control valves in the self-pressurizing stoves control the flow of (hot) gaseous fuel.

* The way to get them to simmer is to use a low tank pressure and a delicate hand on the valve.

Doug

 

[Chip]

Unfortunately, when I replace the locking clip it seems to misalign the shaft and doesn’t pump as well, so I took the clip off.

When I replaced the pump recently on my 508 it was difficult to get the clip seated properly on the throat. There are little dimples in the throat, if you catch both sides the pump will be aligned.

As far as the fuel not lighting, this is a diagram of the 508, I'd assume that either the generator valve (15) or the fuel valve (3) aren't opened or adjusted properly.

 

[Chip]

The pump made the stove more usable/reliable in the cold, but like any other self-pressurizing stove you still had to make sure that you didn't overheat the tank and cause the pressure relief valve to open.

Did yours have the brass heat shield that clipped to the tank ? I was lucky enough to never have the classic pressure relief occur.

The wick just serves to get liquid fuel up into the feeder tube/gas generator...Overheating the feeder tube/gas generator can char the wick which then has to be replaced. The 8R also has a wick.

Thanks, Doug Paul ! I'll have to pull mine apart. I never replaced a wick.

The self-pressurizing is simply due to heating of the gas tank--the enclosed air expands and fuel evaporates, both of which increase the pressure in the tank. A cold tank stove requires a pump to pressurize the tank.
Doug

The "self pressurizing" claim seems a bit "salesy" to me as all non-canister stoves need to be pumped and/or primed.

 

[DougPaul]

Did yours have the brass heat shield that clipped to the tank ? I was lucky enough to never have the classic pressure relief occur.

Yes mine has the shiny heat shield. IIRC there were warnings about running the stove without it. (There were also warnings about using pots that were large enough to hang over the fuel tank.) I've never seen a pressure relief event either--sounds like they are spectacular until the woods and everything else catch on fire... I always oriented the stove so that a pressure release would be away from flammable objects.

Thanks, Doug Paul ! I'll have to pull mine apart. I never replaced a wick.

I don't think there is any reason to replace it unless it is charred. Never done it myself.

The "self pressurizing" claim seems a bit "salesy" to me as all non-canister stoves need to be pumped and/or primed.

Just means that you don't have to pump it. My 8R worked fine without the pump in non-cold weather--just a little more work to prime.

Doug

 

[MadRiver]

As far as the fuel not lighting, this is a diagram of the 508, I'd assume that either the generator valve (15) or the fuel valve (3) aren't opened or adjusted properly.

I followed the directions on the side of the tank and opened both values for the time and setting the instructions called for. I will try it again tonight.

 

[Chip]

I followed the directions on the side of the tank and opened both values for the time and setting the instructions called for. I will try it again tonight.

It could also be because the tank isn't fully pressurized. They tend to spit and sputter for a while before the generator is adequately heated. I often have to re-pump mine, even in warm weather.
The only other thing would be if the holes in the generator or the spaces in the burner plates have clogged/deteriorated to the point where you aren't getting "good flow".

 

[MadRiver]

I not sure how long the stove sat in the cabinet in the garage, so a whole host of issues could be the problem. I'll try it again, if nothing happens, then I will send it off to visit Roger.

 

[jfb]

I was lucky enough to never have the classic pressure relief occur.

My Phoebus 725 used to lift the relief valve, the first time was quite a surprise considering I used to light it and cook with it inside my 2-man tent. I assume the spring on the relief valve relaxed over the years but I decided not to re-tighten it myself.

 

[paul ron]

I have that same brown stove, a model 400. At the bottom of the pump is a check valve that gets stuck n has to be replaced. Coleman will do that for you. The cost of the job when I had it done by Coleman 4 years ago was about $12.

Contact Coleman, send em an e-mail. They back their products no matter how old it is. Look up your stove here... http://www.coleman.com/coleman/parts/product_category2.asp?category_id=240