Dial and Nippletop, a 3 season hike!

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TMax

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Feb 12, 2005
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Location
Avatar is on Gannett Peak, Wyoming's high point.
Started out Saturday morning in typical cool Spring conditions. Walked up the AMR road to the Henry-Goddard Leach Trail towards Bear Den and Dial. I very quickly had to shed all but the lightest layers as it warmed up to Summer-like conditions. Had my hair tied way up on my head to try and cut back on the sweaty neck! It was nice though because while it felt like summer, there were absolutely no bugs! The lack of foliage made for excellant views of Noonmark as I headed up the shoulder. The trail was in great shape with only occassional wet spots. Right where you hit the State land boundary, there was some significant water moving down the trail but that was easily ignored in favor of the view of the Great Range! Up in the fire area, the amount of standing water increased but was easily navigated. The views from the shoulder were wonderful with an interesting climb down through all the fire damage. Starting back up the other side to Bear Den, the blow down increased tremendously, slowing progress. However, the trail stayed fairly dry. In places, you had to be vigilant as the herd paths developing around the significant blowdown could take you way off trail. Summit of Bear Den was unremarkable and I moved quickly down into the col between Bear Den and Dial. All of a sudden, the wind picked up, temperatures dropped and it started to rain. Very lightly. I barely had time to pull out my rain gear before it stopped! Then the temperatures rose back up again and I was back to a tee shirt. Still no snow or ice to be seen. Up on the summit of Dial, I stopped on the big rock for pictures and a snack. Had to put a fleece layer on as I started to feel the temp sneak back down and wind pick up. I dropped down into the next col and the season started to make a big change. I added my rain jacket on top of my fleece and started the climb up in hopes of re-warming myself. Snow started to appear just above 4000'. The higher I went, the deeper and wider the snow path became but the spine that would hold you up was quite narrow. While not too difficult to navigate, it did slow me down. Then it started to rain seriously...:( and the temps took a nose-dive into a winter-like reminder! As I carefully pulled myself out of postholes on the side of that fragile snow-spine I wondered why the hell I was back here before this crap was all gone! By the time I got to the junction with the Elk Pass Trail my mantra was "I'm not enjoying this anymore." The trip up to the summit of Nippletop was unpleasant as the rain turned into snow (some of the biggest snowflakes I've ever seen) and I struggled to stay on that spine! Having seen not another soul all day, I began to wonder if I had been the only recipient of the faulty weather report calling for a beautiful sunny day... There was absolutely no view from the top so I turned around quickly and dropped back down into that little col just below the summit to try to get something dry and a little warmer on. I "sledded" (not on purpose) down most of the way back to the Elk Pass Trail. Then the walk down to Elk Pass was the LONGEST 1.1 miles ever! Between the blowdown, the rotten snow and slippery ice, each footstep had to be carefully planted. I had the thought "I won't be able to finish my winter 46ers because I am NEVER coming back to Nippletop!!" Thankfully the precipitation stopped and I even had a few moments of sunshine that I tried to bask in and decided it would be easier in the winter anyway with good snow coverage :D. Back out on the Colvin trail I passed a couple guys who had just done Colvin. They complained of the same conditions but didn't get snowed on! I moved quickly down along the Gill Brook (what a beautiful Trail!) and dropped out onto the AMR road where I ran into a couple who had just done Gothics. Same conditions, same complaints. :) What's the saying? You know you're an addict when.....
 
I had the thought "I won't be able to finish my winter 46ers because I am NEVER coming back to Nippletop!!"

Sounds like you had some tough conditions this weekend. I have been told that the view from Basin is one of the most impressive in the High Peaks but unfortunately it has eluded me twice, one in the summer and in March from Peggy O. I have had the opposite experience with Nippletop. I've had picture perfect days on top of this peak - one in the summer and one in the winter. I think the winter view is the best I've ever seen in the High Peaks. You have a perfect view of Marcy and the Great Range to the west and much of the Dix range to the east. To the south there is a partial view of Elk Lake. If you have a beautiful clear day in the winter and don't mind another 15 miler I hope you 'll reconsider. This hike has great rewards.
 
skidoc22 said:
If you have a beautiful clear day in the winter and don't mind another 15 miler I hope you 'll reconsider. This hike has great rewards.
Doesn't take long for unhappy memories to leave me! You know I'll be back out there... Maybe in a few weeks when I hit Colvin and Blake I'll make this little side trip:D!!
 
Too bad after toughing it out, you couldn't be rewarded with terrific views...still, even a rough trip in the mountains is a lot better than no trip in the mountains. It'll be there for you next time!
 
N-Top in winter

Last February I went to Nipple top-Dial with Pierre (Oncoman) and
miss Margaret. We done it the opposite way you do. Easier hike up to
N-Top but very windy and cold. we went to Dial and no problem, after
we continued to Bear den on a snow blizzard and in the blowdown section
we try for an hour to find the trail and could not find it. Pierre glass hit my
very long ice axe and he lose them :mad: . So we decided to backtrack to Dial and
after to the junction with N-Top and Elk pass trail. We finally reach the road
at 11:15 pm and went to the gate. One ranger was waiting for us and we had
do complete his report. Margaret had frozen bit to her big toes.
A very long day on N-Top and Dial (15 hours in the cold).
I was tired for 3-4 days and went back in the daks the 4 following
weekend and complete my winters 46ers in one season.

We forget bad experience and remember the good part of the day. :)
 
Terri, ajtiv, guinness, and I plan on doing all 4 on June 24th... You can always do the other two then... :)

Jay
 
Hi Terri,

As Jay has mentioned, Jay, Al and myself are off the visit all five (Colvin-Blake-Colvin-Nippletop-Dial) on June 24th you are more than welcome if you need Colvin-Blake. (I could use the company).

What Jay failed to mention is that the event will start out as Jay-Al-Ed and end up as Jay-Al and Ed who will be somewhere behind! No way in hell will I ever keep up with those two! Those two are real climbing animals as you know.
 
Guinness said:
Hi Terri,

As Jay has mentioned, Jay, Al and myself are off the visit all five (Colvin-Blake-Colvin-Nippletop-Dial) on June 24th you are more than welcome if you need Colvin-Blake. (I could use the company).

What Jay failed to mention is that the event will start out as Jay-Al-Ed and end up as Jay-Al and Ed who will be somewhere behind! No way in hell will I ever keep up with those two! Those two are real climbing animals as you know.
Sounds like a plan to me. I suppose I could slow myself down to hang with you :D :D :D :D :p
 
gee, I think all the running I have been doing is helping my hiking. Sometimes I am actually close enough to actually SEE Jay in front of me on the trail. Although, sometimes, I do wonder if he has slowed down, you know, not get TOO far ahead. I have found out the hard way, though, that he does not mind doing sweep when others are doing face plants in front of him. :mad:
 
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