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Unfortunately, like all "rugged" cameras, the image quality doesn't compare to "regular" cameras. Since my hiking rarely involves getting run over by a Hummer, I'm not going to sacrifice image quality. If I was going to spend a great deal of time in a boat then I'd get one, but not for hiking, winter hiking, or skiing that I do.
 
Thanks.

Looks like $300-sih will do it.

Was at B&H in NYC yesterday. Saleman mentioned that the only real difference btwn P&S cameras is the zoom. True???
 
Saleman mentioned that the only real difference btwn P&S cameras is the zoom. True???
No, not even close.

The lens (zoom, shapeness, maximum aperture, focus speed) is important. As are video quality, flash range, shot-to-shot speed, burst mode, camera size, macro mode, battery life, memory format, and a host of others. B&H salesman should know better than that.
 
The Panasonic ZS1 and ZS3 are well reviewed point and shoots. ZS1 is less expensive, has lower resolution and a smaller display.

These are "compact super zoom" cameras - she may not require this much zoom capability. You haven't said much about what she intends to photograph, or what size prints (if any) she intends to make from her shots.

Truth in advertising, even in fixed lens cameras I personally prefer ones with more manual controls than these Panasonics offer. But we are talking about something for your wife, not me, right?

http://www.digitalcamera-hq.com/digital-cameras/panasonic-lumix-zs1-review_roundup.html

Agree with the prior post - I also value image quality over ruggedness. That's just one example of prioritizing your needs and making a purchase decision based on what requirements are most important to you.
 
Mohamed... I can't remember the exact model of Lumix, but it is the older version of this, I think: Lumix DMC-ZR1
Hers is 10MPixel not 12... Guessing yours is one of the slightly bigger "mid-range" cameras.

DaveG, we have and love a Nikon D80 for "bench work" -- kid shows, home shooting, etc., but I can't imagine hauling it along on a hike, ride, or skiing. It's a big, heavy thing with a big, bulky lens. My days of trucking along an SLR are over (unless I was going out to shoot, and that hasn't happened in a long time).
 
DrewKnight -
"DaveG, we have and love a Nikon D80 for "bench work" -- kid shows, home shooting, etc., but I can't imagine hauling it along on a hike, ride, or skiing. It's a big, heavy thing with a big, bulky lens. My days of trucking along an SLR are over (unless I was going out to shoot, and that hasn't happened in a long time)."

The weight isn't bad considering most of the weight in my pack is dedicated to water weight. In it's own compartment, it's safe. I find trying to fit it with a camera bag is a struggle, so I leave the camera bag in the car.
I'm still very happy with my old 4mp camera and I know it will be more practical to bring along if I find space to be an issue.
 
How are you measuring 'image quality'? What's a good metric, and appropriate range??

Also, can any of the P&S add a skylight filter on the lens??
 
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How are you measuring 'image quality'? What's a good metric, and appropriate range??
There are many factors affecting image quality and there is no simple method of measuring overall quality. (Also what kind of image? How are you viewing it?) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image_quality has a list of 13 factors... FWIW, the number of pixels (MP) is often just a minor factor.

Also, can any of the P&S add a skylight filter on the lens??
Many of the Canon P&Ses can take a adapter for an add-on lens or filter. Filters are rarely used to protect the lens on a P&S (it is common practice on [D]SLRs).

Doug
 
Let me re-phrase. What's a min acceptable ISO for the 'high end'??
 
Let me re-phrase. What's a min acceptable ISO for the 'high end'??
Still not sure what you are after...

Most P&Ses become very noisy above an ISO of 200 or 400 even though you may be able to set the ISO to a higher value. The reviews at http://www.imaging-resource.com/MFR1.HTM often have sections showing the noise as a function of ISO.

Doug
 
Let me re-phrase. What's a min acceptable ISO for the 'high end'??
Most P&S cameras get pretty noisy once you go past ISO 400. They may go up to ISO 1600 or even 3200, but you'd never want to take a picture at that setting. They are for show, not for using. Since the MegaPixel wars are slowing down, the ISO wars are starting. :) A few cameras will shoot pretty well at ISO 800, but they tend to be the more expensive models.

Read the reviews (I use http://www.dcresource.com) and look at the image galleries. There's no one perfect camera, you will always have to make some trade offs.
 
Re. "how are you measuring image quality" - there are several methods.

  • Read reviews of the camera and pay close attention to comments re. image quality. I use dcresource.com, imaging-resource.com, and dpreview.com and there are other review sites out there. There is not always a consensus on image quality but there often is. Some sites such as imaging-resource publish a number of objective measurements on lens quality and image quality, for each camera that they review - for example sharpness, distortion, and chromatic aberration (aka "purple fringing"). Here's an example: http://www.imaging-resource.com/PRODS/OS550WP/OS550WPA.HTM - scroll down to see the lens quality/image quality measurements.
  • Look at sample images online and judge for yourself.

Re. "what is the minimum acceptable ISO" - you have to decide this, based on your specific needs. will the owner of this camera do a lot of low light shooting? using available light (eg, no flash)? if not, then you do not, in my opinion, need a wide range of ISO settings. If so, then that limits the field to SLRs and also those relatively few fixed-lens cameras that actually produce good quality results at higher ISOs. As has been stated, many cameras now offer high ISO settings as a marketing gimmick, but the results are useable only for the smallest of prints, if at all.
 
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