Favorite handsaw.

[Don L]

I really like my Sawvivor. It's very light weight and has an agressive blade. It functions like a bow saw and cuts much better than those fold-up saws with the cute curved blade .
Happy Hiking,
Don L

 

[BorealChickadee]

This sounds to me like a "bring your saw" to the next gathering so evryone can test them out!

I've got a Sawvivor. No complaints so far, but I've got nothing to compare it to except a full size bow saw. The full size is definitely better, but not easily packable. Hearing all these reports, it would be interesting to try others out.

 

[Rick]

Pete, He is Really a chip of the old block (Pun absolutely intended).

 

[peakbagger]

I have used a Sawvivor for several years with no problems. It has a bit more capacity than a Sven saw. I slacked a section of the AT in Georgia last fall a few days after a hurricane and the saw got used quite often.

 

[sardog1]

I have used a 21in sven saw for trail maintenence for several years--works great. (There is also a 15in model--haven't tried it.)

Little guy rides in my pack all winter. His bigger brother is even better on blowdowns but a slight pain (lengthwise) to carry every day. Both of them go through softwoods like the proverbial you-know-what through a goose. Neither of them weighs a whole lot. They last a very long time. And best of all, they spring from the same natal waters at the head of Lake Superior as I do.

 

[Trout]

I use/have both the Sawvivor & the Gerber saw. I also usually carry a very small Gerber pack axe. They are all great for small stuff, but the bigger stuff can be much harder to really deal with.

 

[SherpaKroto]

Another vote for the Sawvivor. I've never had any issues with it. Small, light, strong, sharp, and the blade is holstered by the saw body during travel. What more could I ask for?.

 

[Andrew]

I have been doing trail maintenance for many years and many miles and have gone through a few hand saws. I was a big fan of the Corona folding saw, but am now more impresed with the Florian folding models. The steel on the replaceable blade is one of the strongest I found (has lasted the longest before I managed to snap it), and they also now offer three sizes. I forget the exact size, but I have the largest one. The advantage being that I can reach higher branches and cut larger diameter blowdowns (as long as they are dead/ soft).

The advantage of a straight folding blade is that you are not limited by a bow frame whilst cutting.

I assume they have a website, the company is out of CT.

 

[darren]

Will the 8" Gerber saw that Jay H posted or the Silky saw that Vermonster posted cut through an 8" blowdown ok? Or do you need a Sven saw to get through something like that? If the Sven saw, 15" or 21". What if the blowdown is 10"?

I do a lot of mountain biking locally and the trails do not get much use so they do not get much maintenance. My friends and I always try to move blowdowns off the trails, but in some cases it would be a lot easier to cut through them. I'd like to start carrying a saw when I bike but it would have to fit in a camelbak. I'm not sure how effective a small saw like the 8" Gerber would be.

Thanks

- darren

 

[DougPaul]

Will the 8" Gerber saw that Jay H posted or the Silky saw that Vermonster posted cut through an 8" blowdown ok? Or do you need a Sven saw to get through something like that? If the Sven saw, 15" or 21". What if the blowdown is 10"?

Depends on how hard you want to work on it...

The Gerber folding saw only has 6in of exposed blade. If one assumes that you need some stroking length, then it is limited to 3-4in dia logs for a single cut. Probably not too efficient with that short a stroke. By cutting from multiple sides, one might be able to cut a somewhat larger log. (I haven't tested this saw for real trail maintenence yet.)

The 21in Sven saw is 8.5in from the tips of the saw teeth to the apex of the inside triangle so it can cut up to a ~7in log in a simple cut (again requires a rather short stroke). 6in is a more practical max for a simple cut. I have cut up to an 8incher (solid wood) by cutting from several directions. The narrow tip of the Sven can sometimes be helpful when there is rather limited space around the log. One advantage of the Sven (and other band saws) is that the blade is thinner than that of non-band saws, less wood need be removed to make the cut, and thus less effort is required. This saw is my main workhorse for trail clearing.

I haven't used a 15in Sven, but one could multiply the above numbers by 15/21 (=.71) to estimate what it can do.

A 10in log is too big for the above saws. My trail-clearing friend and I generally use her 3ft 2-person saw for that size. A chain saw or an axe are other good options.

Doug

 

[darren]

Doug,

Thanks for the info. I know I would have to cut from multiple sides to get through an 8" or bigger tree. I'd like to know if anyone has any experience in doing it and just how hard it would be. I can't carry an axe or a big saw on my bike. The smaller trees I can usually just move aside, but the 8" or 10" trees are just too big to move. I'm willing to do some effort to cut them, but not if it is going to take me an hour to make 2 cuts through an 8" tree. Maybe trail maintenance and bikes just don't mix. So if anyone has estimates on just how much work it would be to cut through an 8 or 10" tree, let me know. I'd rather not buy the saw if I'm not going to get much use out of it.

Thanks

- darren

 

[Jay H]

It would be very hard for the Gerber to go on anything larger because of what DougPaul mentions with the blade length. Sure, you could do an 8" log in chunks and pieces but then you could use a toothbrush too.

Supposedly, some oil does a bit o wonder too when cutting larger items but so far, I've used it dry so far...

Jay

 

[DougPaul]

Thanks for the info. I know I would have to cut from multiple sides to get through an 8" or bigger tree.

OK. Wasn't trying to insult anyone, I just prefer to give extra detail rather than risk someone not understanding.

I'd like to know if anyone has any experience in doing it and just how hard it would be. I can't carry an axe or a big saw on my bike. The smaller trees I can usually just move aside, but the 8" or 10" trees are just too big to move.

You must be stronger than I (not saying all that much...). There have been plenty of 6 inchers that I have had to cut before I can move the pieces.

We tend to only carry light-weight tools unless we know that we will need them. And then we may make a special trip to deal with the problem.

I'm willing to do some effort to cut them, but not if it is going to take me an hour to make 2 cuts through an 8" tree.

For an 8incher with good access, I'd guess 10ish min with the Sven.

I once had to clear a large beech tree that had blocked the trail. 1.5--2 ft diameter at the trunk. Lower top (or upper mid) story across the trail. It took me 3 hrs to disassemble the tree into pieces small enough for me to move. The largest cut was about 8in. My tools were the 21in Sven and a pair of loppers. (A fun puzzle, figuring out how and in what order to take the tree apart.)

Doug

 

[Jay H]

Strange that you mention trail maintenance on bike trails. On the trail I take to/from work I have to deal with the occasional blowdown, including some large trees. There was a huge tree across the path once and I actually biked to work with a full sized bow saw (partially sticking out of my pannier) and I was going at it for a bit until a cop showed up and asked what I was doing... Well I kind of BS'ed him a bit saying I was just making it easier for the lunch crew to go to lunch. It was a short cut to the local deli from where I work which is also how I get home. Well, technically it's state property but the cop kind of said it was OK, so long as I knew that if I hacked off an arm or something that the state might be held liable, but he didn't mind it either way as I was in fact, doing the work for them.

I eventually finished clearing off the debre and biked the rest of the way home. Of course, I didn't have one of those folding bow saws, just this plain ole home depot one.

Jay

 

[teejay]

Sven saw, a note of caution

I have had a 21" Sven saw for many years and have used it a lot. One thing to look out for is this. After a lot of use the square hole in the handle tends to get elongated a bit and the nubbin on the top bar that stops it in the hole can get worn. It is possible that the top bar can go right through the handle during use. Ask me how I know this. When this happens, your knuckles can plow right into the blade which is buckling in the piece you are cutting. When this first happened to me I was lucky and blood loss was minimal.

I fixed it by assembling the saw normally and drilling a 1/4" hole through the middle of the handle and top bar where they meet. In the other end of the handle I drilled another 1/4" hole near the end and off center. In use a 1/4" bolt and wing nut are used to make sure the handle and top bar stay together as designed and the hole in the other end is used to store the nut and bolt when not in use.

I recently ordered a new blade for mine from Campmor. The tooth pattern on the replacement was different from the original blade and didn't cut as well as the slightly dull original. I swapped the original blade end-for-end and it cuts almost as good as new now. Unlike most saw blades, the Sven blades can cut in either direction.

I would highly recommend the Sven saw in spite of the caution mentioned above. I have not seen a new one recently, so it's possible the manufacturer has made improvements.

teejay

 

[DougPaul]

I have had a 21" Sven saw for many years and have used it a lot. One thing to look out for is this. After a lot of use the square hole in the handle tends to get elongated a bit and the nubbin on the top bar that stops it in the hole can get worn. It is possible that the top bar can go right through the handle during use.

I fixed it by assembling the saw normally and drilling a 1/4" hole through the middle of the handle and top bar where they meet. In the other end of the handle I drilled another 1/4" hole near the end and off center. In use a 1/4" bolt and wing nut are used to make sure the handle and top bar stay together as designed and the hole in the other end is used to store the nut and bolt when not in use.

Thanks for the heads-up and fix.

Another fix might be just a bolt or pin through the long frame part to back up the nubbin. (Just a bigger nubbin in a slightly different place.) Still have to find a place to put it when the saw is folded up.

Just checked mine--that nubbin is a little on the small side... (still ok).

I recently ordered a new blade for mine from Campmor. The tooth pattern on the replacement was different from the original blade and didn't cut as well as the slightly dull original. I swapped the original blade end-for-end and it cuts almost as good as new now. Unlike most saw blades, the Sven blades can cut in either direction.

I have seen both big tooth (rip) and small-tooth (cross-cut) versions of the blade. (My guess as to their being intended as rip and cross-cut blades.) I too feel that the rip blade is better than the cross-cut blade for trail work. Nothing about the two blades on their web site.

I would highly recommend the Sven saw in spite of the caution mentioned above. I have not seen a new one recently, so it's possible the manufacturer has made improvements.

Mine is also a bit old (30yrs)--I'll have to take a closer look next time I see one in a store.

Doug

 

[Pete_Hickey]

(A fun puzzle, figuring out how and in what order to take the tree apart.)

Sometimes you get something that is the opposite. A whole crew can simultaneously work on it.

http://newmud.comm.uottawa.ca/~pete/trailwork2005/may14/tw1.jpg

Very efficient use of a crew whan that happens.

 

[Rick]

Thanks for the heads-up and fix.
.....Mine is also a bit old (30yrs)--I'll have to take a closer look next time I see one in a store.
Doug

And I thought I had an old one at 14 years old... It is the original blade, though it's greatest workout now is the annual Christmas tree.

 

[darren]

Anyone know if there are stores in Eastern Mass that sell the Sven saws?

The REI website lists the saws, but anyone know if the Framingham or Reading stores have them? Or maybe some kind of garden store south of Boston?


Thanks

- darren

 

[post'r boy]

Anyone know if there are stores in Eastern Mass that sell the Sven saws?

Thanks

- darren

you might try the natick outdoor store.