I highly recommend a mapping unit. With the mapping, you can see where you are at a glance and generally transfer your location to a paper map by inspection. Without the mapping, you have to use lat and lon to transfer your location to/from a map--a slow and error-prone process which may be difficult to do in bad conditions. Many mapping hiking GPSes can also be used while driving while a non-mapping GPS would be pretty useless.
Non-mapping GPSes can plot your track, but it is on a blank background and of limited use. (Mapping GPSes will plot the track on the map.) One way to improve the useability of a non-mapping unit is to put waypoints at nearby summits, trail junctions, trailheads, and points of interest to make the track plots more meaningful. While this helps, plotting the track on a map is still much more useful.
The most popular hiking GPS seems to be the Garmin GPSMAP 60CSx, recently discontinued (but you may still be able to buy new or used units). The successor is the GPSMAP 62s.
Garmin sells a 100K scale US topo and regional 24K topos as well as road maps. There are also free road and topo maps (of varying quality) available at
http://www.gpsfiledepot.com/[/url]. You can get a free copy of Garmin Mapsource (runs on your computer) to manage the maps, routes, tracks, and waypoints--see
http://www.gpsfiledepot.com/. (Garmin's maps come with Mapsource if you buy them on DVD or CDROM.)
Garmin (and I presume other manufacturers') GPSes can hold several types (eg road, topo 100K, topo24K) of map simultaneously and you can choose which one to display.
One other (often important) use for the GPS is finding the trailheads...
Doug