Grand Canyon trip - looking for advice

[Peakbagr]

A few of us are thinking about a Grand Canyon trip. I've spent a day hiking the south rim, and some of us have done day hikes part of the way into the canyon - but we're looking to hike to the river and thinking about staying at Phantom Ranch.

Any suggestions as to the best time of year? In spring, late enough to avoid icy trails on the south rim but not so late that it's hot in the canyon. Or autumn, early enough not to have icy trails up high.

Has anyone stayed in cabins at the Ranch? I expect it's very touristy and expensive but a nice alternative by going light and not having to be concerned about meals, camping gear, etc.
We'd also be interested in some 'must do' hikes while in the Canyon.

Any advice is gratefully appreciated.

 

[Early Bird]

We visited the Grand Canyon and hiked down to the bottom in August. It was 123 in the shade and I wouldn't necessarily recommend that time of year, unless it is the only time you get vacation.
We camped at the campground, but had dinner at Phantom Ranch and breakfast. And lemonade. I recall entering after the hike down to see a lemonade machine and hear angels singing. (I mentioned the heat, right.) Yes, it was touristy, but we had fun with the experience. Camping was not touristy. If you wanted to avoid the some of the tourism bit, you could camp, but get meals at the ranch.
We only spent one night there and didn't see much to recommend. We passed Indian Garden on the way down though and that was terrific. Our favorite part of visiting AZ that year was Sedona. If you fly into Phoenix, it's worth stopping into Sedona.

 

[Peakbagr]

Thanks. Have been 2 times to Sedona for hiking. One for acclimitizing for Humphries hike and a day at the GC.
The other week with some friends from here, hiking in the Sedona area. Wonderful location to hike.

 

[DougPaul]

Mid/late March to April or early May is the best time--cool up high and warm down in the canyon. Carry microspikes to deal with any ice or snow near the S Rim. Summer is dangerously hot and fall is the "monsoon" season (greater risk of flash floods).

You can make a loop from the S Rim to Phantom Ranch using the S Kaibab and S Bright Angel trails. From the Phantom Ranch area, you can dayhike to Ribbon Falls, Roaring Springs, or Clear Creek. (One can also camp at Clear Creek.) The bit of the Tonto Trail between S Kaibab and S Bright Angel trails is nice too.

I've been there in the spring and in August...

Doug

 

[RoySwkr]

I was there in late April which I consider ideal - no snow at top and not too hot at bottom

Did the loop from S Rim as a day hike which the authorities did their best to discourage, but if you can do that mileage/elevation in the Whites the trails there are much easier walking - but the uphill is at the end so you need the confidence to do it

The campsites at Phantom Ranch looked not touristy but industrial - metal pipe picnic tables and at least one site has a 36" manhole for the waterline in it

 

[Peakbagr]

Great stuff, terrific ideas thanks to all and to anyone else who has an experience to share.

Alan

 

[Kevin Rooney]

I did the loop as a dayhike the end of this past January. My photos/trip report is here. I would do it again in a heartbeat, and probably will next year. There were many slots at Phantom Ranch, and we debated staying there overnight, but decided to do it as a loop. The recommended direction - at least that time of year - is descending N. Kaibab and ascending the Bright Angel.

The logistics are easy to work out, as the buses are free and the schedules are on the 'net. We stayed in the campground and did a bit of snowcamping the night before. You could also stay in Williams and allow 60-75 minutes driving time. We left at 7AM in the dark, but by 7:30AM it was getting rather light. We needed microspikes for the first 1/2 mile at the top, and about the last mile on the return. Talking with the rangers at the Backcountry center is a good idea, but unless you're doing an overnight you won't need a permit. Initially they may try to talk you out of it, but if you're patient and explain your level of hiking background they'll back off and provide information you can actually use.

At that time of year, a liter or two is fine on the descent and there's plenty of water as the bottom to replenish. There's also a spot about 1/2 way up also. It's longish, but not more strenuous than doing a couple of eastern peaks in a day.

The last jpg in that series includes the hike's profile. While we didn't rush, we did spend a couple of extra hours at Phantom Ranch as one of our party had a medical emergency.

 

[Stan]

I agree with those who suggest the shoulders of the season as the best time. It is cooler, there are smaller crowds and the weather a bit more stable. As in much of the Rocky Mountain area, from mid July to early September, thunderstorms are quite frequent and even in the Canyon, they can be dangerous as well as spectacular.

If you must go during the summer, I suggest the North Rim. It is cooler, at 1000 feet higher elevation, and there are smaller crowds ... notice I say smaller ... there are still crowds.

We've done day hikes on both sides and there is something to recommend almost any trail. Never been to the Canyon floor but it is a goal to do a rim to rim, north to south. This takes a bit of planning and reservations well in advance.

Everyone needs to get to the Grand Canyon but you might also look into "nearby" Havasu Canyon on the Havasupai Reservation immediately to the west of the Park. It is 15 miles from the trailhead to the Colorado River with lodging in Supai, about half way, as well as a campground, the only place camping is allowed along the trail, a few miles closer to the Colorado.

 

[Billy]

Based on some of the replies here, I guess I'm wrong about this, but I thought the cabins were exclusively for mule riders, and hikers had to stay at Bright Angel Campground. Happy to be wrong about that. That would be cool if you could score one of those cabins.

Here are some photos from a 5-day backpack trip in April 2009. I added a brief trip report on the first page that summarizes our trip. The final two days we hit the South Kaibab and Bright Angel trails...those photos begin at about photo #85. If you come up/down Bright Angel trail, try try try to take the time to visit Plateau Point...really nice spot...photos 123-128.

PHOTOS

Early April was a nice time. Nights 30-50F, days at the bottom probably hit 90 max, obviously cooler higher up, and the creeks were flowing.

Also, if you have time for an additional dayhike, I would suggest driving to Grandview Point and hiking down to Horseshoe Mesa.

 

[JacobH]

I did the loop as a dayhike the end of this past January. My photos/trip report is here. I would do it again in a heartbeat, and probably will next year. There were many slots at Phantom Ranch, and we debated staying there overnight, but decided to do it as a loop. The recommended direction - at least that time of year - is descending N. Kaibab and ascending the Bright Angel.

Thanks for that TR! I've honestly never seen the Grand Canyon in winter. That looks like a great trip at that time of year. I think you've just convinced me to visit in winter. Heat and I don't get along well.

 

[DougPaul]

Thanks for that TR! I've honestly never seen the Grand Canyon in winter. That looks like a great trip at that time of year. I think you've just convinced me to visit in winter. Heat and I don't get along well.

Note that in winter the North Rim is closed and the roads along the South Rim can be closed by weather and snow.

Doug

 

[Peakbagr]

I was on the phone with the reservations person this afternoon. They said to begin calling at the precise moment reservations open on the first of the month. He said callers are competing with thousands of people who have the same idea and that March thru May and into June fill in 30 min, and just as bad, and maybe even quicker in Sept, Oct and Nov.
Next spring is filled up, and to get a reservation for autumn 2013, we'd have to be ready with the redial button the moment they open on the first of each month.

Alan

 

[Kevin Rooney]

... Again, upon arriving at the Canyon and checking with the guy at Bright Angel Lodge, he told us that there had been plenty of open cabin space for several days. Again, it was December -- but why no word of this from the reservations folks, other than perhaps the cabins were being held for last-minute mule riders?

Make of that what you will.

This was similar to my experience in late January when we inquired at the Backcountry Center. Nearly everything was available at Phantom Ranch. I think maybe 2 of the tentsites were in use, and virtually all the cabins/bunkrooms were available. I thought it was a great time to visit. Yes, there might be a few patches of snow in places near the rim, but the sunshine was glorious, and the temps were in the 50's up high, and in the 70's in the canyon itself during the day. There were a few people around, but not crowded at all.

 

[pudgy_groundhog]

We've never stayed in the cabins but twice have camped at Bright Angel campground. Both trips we've done one of the "classics" - down the South Kaibab trail, camped at Bright Angel Campground, up the Bright Angel trail (both times we broke up the hike out with a stay at Indian Garden). The first trip was late November and this year we did it in early March. Shoulder seasons, but we enjoyed it and had no problems getting permits. When we went in March there was some ice on the trail. We had microspikes, but many other people didn't (with the mules and all the hikers, a lot of sand/dirt gets kicked up on the ice for traction). Temperatures were perfect in March. We met a local who hikes there a lot and he said he stopped going in April after a few trips with really high temperatures at the bottom.

Even if you can't get a cabin, I would go for the campground. You can always books your meals at Phantom Ranch to lighten your load. One advantage of camping is that you can stay at Indian Garden, which itself isn't that amazing, but it's nice to be able to spend some time at Plateau Point, especially in late afternoon when the light is nice.

Here's our pictures and trip notes from our trip this March:

Grand Canyon March 2012

Good luck on getting reservations!

 

[Will]

we're looking to hike to the river and thinking about staying at Phantom Ranch. Any suggestions as to the best time of year?

Late March through third week in May is (odds are) best. Late May and well into June are frequently not too bad. A few more weeks may be OK, though you may want to be holed up in shade mid day. Then again mid September through early November.

Has anyone stayed in cabins at the Ranch? I expect it's very touristy and expensive but a nice alternative by going light and not having to be concerned about meals, camping gear, etc.

Cabins are no more expensive, per person, than the dorms. OTOH the dorms have their own shower. The problem, with either, is getting them. So frustrating to be down there, having gone through hoops and perhaps settled for non-ideal arrangements, to find there are unused dorm bunks (ALL THE TIME!) and sometimes unused cabins. The Xanterra system may be fine for them (I believe all the vacant spots are paid for) but very customer-unuseful. Often there are also unused campsites at Bright Angel camp and even more often at Cottonwood camp when they are reported full.

Frankly (and I don't know why I'm tipping the gaff on this since it's to my advantage to keep quiet), the best way to arrange a simple "corridor" type trip down without getting embroiled in Xanterra games or the NPS lottery is to use the fringes. Horn Creek or even Salt Creek sites, Cremation area, Clear Creek area, Phantom Creek area, Cheyeva area.

We'd also be interested in some 'must do' hikes while in the Canyon.

As part of corridor type trips: Ribbons Falls, Upper Ribbons Falls, North Rim via N Kaibab, Clear Creek (to creek itself, then up and downstream day trips), at least a little ways up Phantom Canyon. Utah Flats and onwards is the bomb, but scary as hell (to me anyway, fear of heights and exposure and a ball bearing crumbly footway do not make a good mix). People rush like mad from Phantom Ranch/Bright Angel to Cottonwood then roast at that almost shadeless site the whole afternoon. That relatively short flat walk can/should be broken up into a large number of stops/wading/swimming/creek exploring/shade escapes/ just enjoying the canyon meanders to fill up a whole day.

 

[mtnpa]

We went in mid September and planned to be there during the full moon. Stayed at Bright Angel campground. Temps were mostly comfortable especially if you avoid sections of exposure during peak sun. You can save on weight by reserving dinners and buying bag lunches at the lodge.

 

[Clown]

Sounds like a fun trip! We were trying to get permits for backpacking on the Beamer trail which is not quite as popular but in the month of October which along with apr are apparently the busiest months. You can apply via fax at 8am Arizona time 4 months in advance but it was so busy it took half an hour to send the fax through. I think that phantom and bright angel campgrounds are super popular! It's a beautiful area and I can't wait to go back.

 

[marty]

Excellent advice. The only thing I have to add is that I found the Hermit Trail to be a much quieter, wilder and more scenic alternative to descending from the S. Rim than Bright Angel or S. Kaibab.

Have a great time, Alan!

Marty

 

[Peakbagr]

Thanks, now all we gotta do is find a way to get reservations....

 

[Darl58]

I also went in the fall, Sept. and it was perfect, cool at the top and warm as we hiked down. First night we stayed at Bright Angel Campground but stopped over to Phantom Ranch for a cold beer and to write postcards to be delivered my mule..
The campground is right along a stream and we were woken up by the mule deer right outside our tent. The tent sites are near a bathroom and running drinkable water. They always tell you to be prepared in case it isn't working, but that case you go over to phantom and get some...Turkeys were going between campsites trying to snag a meal, we had to keep chasing them off.

It was an easy hike down and we spent a few hours hiking around other trails and exploring.
The second night we hiked up to Indian Garden and stayed so we could spend time relaxing out at Plateau Point watching the sunset..

I loved the whole hike and am hoping to get back and do a rim to rim to rim hike..

Enjoy!!