Hiking for Non-Hikers (Lake Maratanza Loop)

[halia and flammeus]

Thanksgiving morning Flammeus and I decided to get out a little for some pre-feast exercise. We decided to try the Lake Maratanza loop in the Gunks, as we'd never done it before. I vote it the best hike for non-hikers I've met so far!

We parked at the Sam's point parking lot - yes, there are hunters in the area, and yes, there is a parking fee . Oh well... I guess that's as good a way to spend cash as any!

We headed up the west side of the loop road, so that we'd get the Sam's Point view on the way back. The snow is only an inch or so deep - easy walking, no need for any accoutrements. It is a road, not a trail, but it is closed to vehicle traffic, except for the vehicles used at the various towers/stations up top.

This area has an interesting history, and the woods on the west side of the road tells much of it quite visually. The picker's shacks and other ruins (and garbage!) dot the first mile or so, up to the microwave station. At the station, the road starts to run right along the lake. The views are lovely - it was winter colors - blues and greys with plenty of ice and snow and deep green peeking out from underneath.

The ecosystem is quite unique - I don't have all the info at my fingertips, but I'm sure it is easily accessible (and I trust other will post!). Both the terrestrial ecosystem - the high, dry pine barrens - and also the freshwater system of Lake Maratanza.

On the loop, you pass junctions for the Long Path, and the High Point Carriageway - access to Napanoch High Point and on into Minnewaska. Further along, you can take the left to head over to the Ice Caves (closed now due to - you guessed it - ICE) and the trail that takes you to the top of Verkeerderkill Falls. The Ice Caves are awesome and not to be missed - but they are really for a hot summer day when the presence of the ice is both refreshing and a little safer. I went through years ago in April and it was death-defying. (But fun )

Sam's Point is the ultimate non-hiker viewpoint - a half-mile mellow uphill from the parking lot (or about 2.5 miles from the other end of the loop) and incredible views. Ok, New Jersey-ites - is that the high point tower I see from Sam's Point? Sure looks like it. It is always intensely windy at this point, adding to the visual drama of the cliffs and the scrubby dwarfed trees.

This loop would make a great non-hiker walk, a great off road running route, fabulous x-country ski route (well, maybe the downhills are a bit much for the novice), snowshoe learning area, blueberry picking outing, beginner hike with children...

On my old NYNJTC maps, the area west and northwest of this part of the preserve is marked "access by permit only" or some such thing. Is that still the case? And what about the ice caves in that area? Are they accessible to the public?

If anyone is heading out to Napanoch point sometime - pls let us know. I've always wanted to check it out.

Thanksgiving to all those who worked hard to preserve the gunks - I give thanks to all, recent and distant who helped to restore what had been commercially developed (anyone ever been to the bar in the ice caves???), and preserve the rest.

 

[Mark Schaefer]

The hiking is somewhat pedestrian at the Sam's Point Preserve. But it is nonetheless a very scenic area. The best times to visit are in the summer when the endless blueberry and huckleberry patches are loaded with berries. And secondly in the autumn when all of those berry bushes turn a bright crimson red. It becomes a very impressive red carpet spiced with dwarf pitch pine and some yellow birch trees.

On my old NYNJTC maps, the area west and northwest of this part of the preserve is marked "access by permit only" or some such thing. Is that still the case? And what about the ice caves in that area? Are they accessible to the public?

If anyone is heading out to Napanoch point sometime - pls let us know. I've always wanted to check it out.

Yes, the permit is still required for this area of the "Greater Ice Caves". There are several purposes for the permit. The Preserve wants to discourage casual sightseers because the area can be quite treacherous in all seasons, but especially when ice is present in the chasms and gullies. Serious injuries and deaths have occurred in the area.

There are liability concerns with the area. Failure to obtain the permit means that the hikers would be trespassing, and they would have no grounds for a lawsuit against the Preserve if injured. And as I recall by obtaining the permit the hiker releases the Preserve from potential liability claims.

The Preserve also wants to carefully monitor the use of the area, and this is done through the permits. There is no additional charge for the permit above the parking fee. The permit is not meant to discourage serious and able hikers from the area. You may obtain the permit in advance by phone or mail by contacting the Preserve.

It is easiest to access the Greater Ice Caves from the "Smiley Road" trailhead on Berme Road in Ellenville. There is a small parking area in a park up a hill and next to a baseball field, playground, and picnic area. Access to this trailhead parking is not well marked, as there are no signs mentioning the Smiley Road Trail on Berme Road. However, the location is shown on the NY/NJ Trail Conference map, and it is not hard to find if you know where to look for it. The primary access to the Ice Caves are a couple miles up the Smiley Road Trail via "Shingle Gully". The exit point from the trail is near the wooden bridge on the Smiley Road Trail over the seasonal Shingle Gully stream. Follow the unmarked paths up Shingle Gully.

This brings up a good question. Now that the Preserve is calling their access fee at the Preserve's main entrance a "parking fee". Perhaps they will no longer charge this fee when you obtain the special access permit, provided you tell then you will enter the area from Berme Road. There is no fee collection box at the Berme Road trailhead parking (or at least not the last time I was there). Definitely ask when you obtain the Permit.

The Greater Ice Caves are an awesome sight. There are narrow and wide chasms, some over 100' deep, some nearly 200' wide, others barely wide enough to walk through. They are far more impressive than the former commercial ice cave area. Hikers have assigned creative names to various portions of the chasms such as the Sunken Forest and the Grand Canyon.

Note: The Greater Ice Caves area is the only bushwhacking area in the Preserve. The Preserve in general does not permit "off trail" bushwhacking elsewhere in the Preserve.

Napanoch Point is also best accessed from Berme Road as portions of the High Point Carriageway between High Point and Napanoch Point are usually flooded due to beaver activity. If you do want to hike to Napanoch Point from High Point it is best to use the recently reopened blue blazed trail, and then backtrack a bit to Napanoch Point on the Smiley Road Trail. However, even on that route you will find some areas of Smiley Road flooded. The best views at Napanoch Point are on some unmarked paths off of Smiley Road. The view is somewhat similar to that obtained at High Point (the site of a former fire tower). There may or may not be cairns marking the start of these paths (depending on whether the cairn carers of cairn busters have been there most recently). Note: Napanoch Point is not part of the Sam's Point Preserve so there are no problems going off trail there. I don't have my maps at hand, but as I recall Napanoch Point is also not part of Minnewaska State Park which also discourages off trail whacking. However, the rangers don't patrol outlying areas of Minnewaska State Park, and off trail whacking is commonly practiced by many in the far western areas recently added to Minnewaska State Park.

 

[the_swede]

Ok, New Jersey-ites - is that the high point tower I see from Sam's Point? Sure looks like it.

Yes, yes. The High Point monument is only 30 miles from Sam's Point and it is easily visible on a clear day. In fact, you can hike the Shawangunk Ridge Trail from Sam's Point to High Point. The TC has free maps online of the recently completed trail.

 

[Jay H]

So, you hiked around Lake TonyDanza I'm not sure I'm familiar with Lake Maratanza... But it does sure sound familiar!

It is easiest to access the Greater Ice Caves from the "Smiley Road" trailhead on Berme Road in Ellenville. There is a small parking area in a park up a hill and next to a baseball field, playground, and picnic area. Access to this trailhead parking is not well marked, as there are no signs mentioning the Smiley Road Trail on Berme Road. However, the location is shown on the NY/NJ Trail Conference map, and it is not hard to find if you know where to look for it. The primary access to the Ice Caves are a couple miles up the Smiley Road Trail via "Shingle Gully". The exit point from the trail is near the wooden bridge on the Smiley Road Trail over the seasonal Shingle Gully stream. Follow the unmarked paths up Shingle Gully.

I believe once on Berme road, there is a wooden sign there that says "trailhead access". It doesn't specifically say Ice Caves or anything more than that I think but it is next to a baseball field and a fire dept. building and not far off of Route 52.

Do get a permit though, I suspect a lot of folks don't.

Jay

 

[Mark Schaefer]

I believe once on Berme road, there is a wooden sign there that says "trailhead access". It doesn't specifically say Ice Caves or anything more than that I think but it is next to a baseball field and a fire dept. building and not far off of Route 52.

Do get a permit though, I suspect a lot of folks don't.

It has been about 3 years since I last hiked up Smiley Road to the Napanoch Point area. The wooden sign on Berme Road must be more recent. The fire house on Berme Road, north of the ball field, is another good landmark. Before the establishment of the trailhead parking area I used to park in the ball field parking area along Berme Road next to the fire house. If you do not see the official trail parking area, you could still park at the ball field and then walk uphill to the trail. The entrance to the trailhead parking is just south of the ball field.

It is true that most who access the Greater Ice Caves do not know about the required permit. However, like Jay I also encourage obtaining the permit so your visit will be entirely legal.

 

[halia and flammeus]

Thanks!

Thank you so much. What an amazing resource - I am really grateful to you for all the info.

I promise, when ready to head out to Napanoch, I will obtain a permit.


And you, JayH, get a very special mention for your amazing ability to work in obscure 1970's and '80's references to your posts. It may not be Flounder-worthy, but I am definitely going to come up with some appropriate prize for you upon the next one. I am still laughing about crazy eddie. And I bet Swede doesn't know who Tony Danza is!

 

[the_swede]

And I bet Swede doesn't know who Tony Danza is!

Oh c'mawn! Who's The Boss was a classic!

 

[Jay H]

Oh c'mawn! Who's The Boss was a classic!

I think he Wiki'd that one!

Or did her perhaps pull out the Encyclopedia Brittania?

Jay

 

[the_swede]

I think he Wiki'd that one!

Or did her perhaps pull out the Encyclopedia Brittania?

Jay

Give me some credit. I spent the first 10 years of my life without cable TV! Tony Danza was every kid's hero!

Boy, do I feel bad for the reality TV generation...

 

[MattC]

Maratanza feels kind of surreal to me sometimes, because of the juxtaposition of the natural setting with the towers and crumbling road. Feels like Area 52 or something, like a place where the government has space aliens locked up in an underground lab. (We need a smiley with a tinfoil hat here).

I'd be up for a Greater Ice Caves trek next spring or early summer. I've only been to that remarkable place once, several years ago. And I also wouldn't mind revisiting Napanoch Point.

Matt

 

[halia and flammeus]

Matt -

You are spot on! Since the road was snow covered, I wasn't getting the full experience, but that whole area is quite surreal. Sam's POint with its fading parking area, and the parking lot down at the formerly commercial ice caves is just wierd. Those towers are a striking juxtaposition. It is an intense place.

Actually, early on in the Tom and Heather story, we went there, and Iske ran off (as she always does) at the top of Sam's Point. She ran right up to the low wall at the edge of the lookout point, and continued, over the wall and out of sight. Tom immediately assumed I would break up with him, as I was bound to forever link him with the memory of my beloved dog's death. Of course a moment later, she hopped back over the wall. It isn't the sheer drop it appears to be, but it absolutely jolted us horribly. I think it took Tom hours to recover.

Ok, you are on the Napanoch point, ice caves short list ! I will start posting about it and bugging people in the spring. It sounds gorgeous - I can't wait.

H