Hiking with Stephen King (Lafayette 1/27/2007)

vftt.org

Help Support vftt.org:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

BIGEarl

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 18, 2005
Messages
2,103
Reaction score
293
Location
Nashua, NH
Old Bridle Path, Greenleaf Trail

8.0 Miles, 3,600 Feet

Hiked with Jennifer.

Earlier in the week we decided the target for our weekend hike would be a loop to Lafayette and Lincoln. Initially we had planned on a counterclockwise hike up the Falling Waters Trail to Franconia Ridge Trail to Greenleaf Trail to Old Bridle Path out. As we came closer to the weekend the weather forecast started to indicate potential problems with this approach. Both the National Weather Service (NWS) and The Weather Channel (TWC) were indicating a strong potential for snow in the late afternoon. Based on this information we decided to reverse our planned route. This would eliminate the need to hike down from the summit of Mount Lafayette in snow, and possible white-out conditions. Friday night we were monitoring the developing forecasts and could see a significant difference between these two primary sources. The NWS was forecasting 7:00am temperatures of – 15 degrees with a westerly wind driving the wind chill down to -40 degrees. TWC was forecasting -2 degrees and calm wind conditions. I had the impression the NWS forecasts were more in-line with reality and TWC forecasts tended to be too optimistic. With this opinion we decided delay our start and allow the temperature to move up a little.

I was expecting to rustle Jennifer out of bed for 5:45am. After a quick breakfast we would head out targeting a 6:30am departure and on-trail at 8:30am. In a surprise, Jennifer stumbled into the kitchen at 5:15am looking for coffee. We casually went about our morning preparation, coffee, breakfast, packing, and finally loading the truck. We actually left Nashua around 7:00am.

We believed reaching the summit of Lafayette around 1:00pm would leave plenty of time to hike over Lincoln to Little Haystack and move past the real steep part of the Falling Waters Trail before headlights were needed. And, the late start would give us friendlier hiking conditions.

We set off on the Old Bridle Path at 9:00am. A couple other hikers set off on the same route at roughly the same time. We weren’t hiking together but we could have been. We passed each other multiple times. The conditions were completely overcast, cold, and no wind. The folks at TWC got it right. A brisk pace to start got us up to temperature quickly and we settled into a comfortable speed after the OBP-Falling Waters trail split. The hiking conditions were very good. The snow was crunchy dry providing very good footing. We were able to bare boot the hike to the steep sections. We pulled out the crampons at approximately 3000 feet more from a precautionary move than one of necessity. As we made our way to the Greenleaf Hut there were quite a few viewpoints where we could enjoy Franconia Ridge as well as Cannon and Kinsman Ridge. The clouds were high, the summits open, and the views were great. At approximately 3500 feet we started to experience the first wind of the day. Gradually it increased and the exposed sections were uncomfortable places. At the hut we stopped for me to swap batteries in my camera – an uncomfortable operation due to the wind. We also added a layer and got the balaclava/face masks ready.

Off from the hut area we passed through the final sheltered part of the trail before moving above the tree line. It seemed there was more drifted snow in this area but the other pair of hikers was now in front by 100 to 200 yards and doing a great job of trail breaking. We continued at a similar pace out of the spruce shelter and to the exposed final few hundred feet to the summit. Before moving above the tree line we added the balaclava/face mask and tightened the hoods for the needed protection. By now the wind was really coming up and the conditions were generally going downhill fast. Still, we had open hiking conditions with views to the south showing the complete ridge and even Mount Liberty in the distance.

As we approached the summit we also closed in on the other hikers in front of us. Just below the summit area we met them and all of us stepped onto the summit area together. We also stepped into a Stephen King novel at the same time.

The conditions took a complete dive. The clouds consumed the summit. The snow was blowing. Visibility dropped to nothing - a whiteout. The only thing we didn’t have was an endless crunching sound (but I was having trouble with my hearing aids and could have missed it). We all looked at each other and asked the question to which we already knew the answer. Are we continuing to Lincoln? I walked to the south side of the summit area to see what the trail looked like. Of course, there was no trail visible, no cairns, nothing – just white. I walked back to the others and all agreed to call it a hike. After only a few minutes on the summit we were heading back to the hut. Jennifer started to develop severe cramping in one of her legs and was forced to hike much slower on the steep descent. I would frequently stop to allow the others to close in on me. We continued in this manner back to the Greenleaf Hut. Each time that I stopped I also noted the changes on the ridge. Gradually, the monster that consumed Lafayette expanded and took everything through Little Haystack. It seemed to be following us. In fact, when we reached the hut everything down to the tree line was in the clouds and blowing snow – the ridge was gone.

We stopped for a while at the hut for a quick snack and water. Jennifer took some pain medication for her leg problem. After roughly 30 minutes we set off for the hike out. On the way along the ridge that the OBP follows we were able to continue watching the changing conditions on the ridge. Slowly, the cloud and snow cover consumed more to the south reaching Liberty.

After making it through the steep descent, and some time for the pain medication to kick in, we were able to pick up the pace. Jennifer was in the lead and moving well. Our initial plan had us coming out with headlights but it didn’t work out that way. We stepped back into the trail head lot at approximately 4:00pm., took a few pictures that I should have taken at the start, packed our things, and headed for Lincoln. A cup of coffee was calling Jennifer’s name.

We didn’t do the loop but we had a very interesting and fun hike. I hope Jennifer’s leg recovers quickly.

Postscript:

When I was a kid, delivering newspapers was one thing I did to earn spending money. The newspaper was a morning edition which had me on the street early, around 5:00am. This allowed me to complete the paper route and get to school on time. At the end of my paper route there was a shortcut that I normally took that passed through a wooded area behind a house near my home. A dog lived there and was kept outside on a run.

This was a good news – bad news situation.

The bad news: Evidently the dog could tell time and knew exactly when I would be coming through. I forgot to mention this was not a particularly friendly dog (borderline monster dog – could have been named Cujo).

The good news: I knew the rope limit and stayed beyond it.

Every time I passed through the area he would come after me. And, every time he was unsuccessful (except one as I recall). I knew the length of the rope but not the strength of the rope (I believed the dog was stronger).

Eventually, I would make it through the area and leave for school, the dog would settle down and return to the back steps where he was sleeping, waiting for me to pass through. Everything in general would return to normal.

Our visit to Lafayette and the monster we encountered there was similar. We tried to pass through without causing a stir, but were unable to get away with it. The monster became active and started after us. It seemed to chase us down the mountain to a place that was beyond its “rope limit”, somewhere near the tree line. We continued our hike out and the excitement behind us continued. But like a barking dog restrained by a strong rope, it did not advance further. Once we made it close to the trailhead lot we noticed some interesting changes. There were a number of breaks in the clouds. In fact, a large opening appeared to be over Lafayette displaying clear blue sky. Franconia Ridge was open from end to end. The views were great!

Evidently, the monster was once again quietly waiting for more visitors.

I’m sure my memory of the paper route and my neighbor’s dog will never die. The same is probably the case for my visit to Mount Lafayette and the reception we received. When I was a kid I never turned back. Furtunately, I'm a little smarter now.

:)

BIGEarl's Pictures
 
Last edited:
Nice TR and shots, BigEarl! Despite the socked-in weather, it sure looked pretty up there. Glad you guys made the decision to turn around. Way to go!

Jen-San: Hope your leg is feeling better...
 
Lafayette 1/27

I love your pictures of Greenleaf, how they look black and white when I know they aren't. That scenery is what makes trips worth it whether you reach to where you intended or not. Thanks for sharing.
 
We had a good hike and a very enjoyable day. I’m not sure Jen-san would completely agree with the comment however. After a hot meal, a good night’s sleep, and then going through her Sunday start-up Jennifer headed out for a day that included quite a bit of shopping. I’m here to tell you she’s tough! :rolleyes:

And, the pictures are interesting under grey conditions. Our world became a black and white place for a while. The views were different but still great.

The unfortunate part has to do with the apparent difficulty in forecasting weather conditions in the mountains. There was a great difference between the forecasts from the National Weather Service and The Weather Channel. Clearly, one was wrong, perhaps both. In hindsight we should have stayed with our initial plan and simply been at the trailhead for a 7:30am start. At that point a decision could have been made to hike or to find a coffee shop and wait for conditions to improve. Our late start eliminated that option. Hitting the summit of Lafayette around 11:30am would have allowed us the opportunity to easily head down the ridge and hike the loop as planned.

On the other hand…. Considering the leg issue, Greenleaf/OBP was possibly a friendlier exit than Falling Waters would have been. :confused:

With Lincoln still on Jen-san’s list we have a reason to go back to Franconia Ridge. There are worse places to be, I’ve visited a few. :D
 
I enjoyed the hike immensely, despite the cramp in my quad that developed as we reached the summit. As we discussed, I believe that hydration was a primary factor, and I am going to give serious thought as to how to adapt my camelback to freezing conditions; the nalgene water bottle set up isn't working very well for me. I find that having to stop, remove the water bottle from the holder etc. is just enough deterrent not to drink as often as I should.
 
Big Earl and Jennifer,

It certainly was a wonderful hike, and meeting cheerful hikers as you were enhances the enjoyment even further.
Your detail TR and the nice pictures allow me to remember vividly what a fun Mike and I had last Saturday.
Thanks a lot Big Earl and I hope, Jennifer, you are all set for next one by now.
-The other pair.
 
Gil,

We really enjoyed the hike too. And thanks to you and Mike for doing much of the hard work in breaking the trail from the hut to the summit.

I hope we see you on the trail again.

Please remember to get the pictures. The picture resolution is reduced by the Webshots application before upload. If you want hi-resolution copies of the summit pictures, or any of the other pictures, please PM your email address to me and I'll send them. :)

Regards,
Earl (aka BIGEarl)
 
Last edited:
Jen-san said:
As we discussed, I believe that hydration was a primary factor, and I am going to give serious thought as to how to adapt my camelback to freezing conditions;
Bladder systems are notorious for freezing in the cold. I suggest that, if you try to use one, that you have some sort of backup available so a freeze-up doesn't render your water inaccessible.

the nalgene water bottle set up isn't working very well for me. I find that having to stop, remove the water bottle from the holder etc. is just enough deterrent not to drink as often as I should.
I carry a 1/2 liter insulated nalgene bottle on my belt and a 1 liter insulated bottle in my pack (more if it is a particularly long trip). The belt bottle is readily accessible and can be tossed in the pack if it gets in the way.

The key to drinking adequate amounts, even if the water is in your pack, is simply dicipline. One method is to stop to eat and drink at least once per hour (by your watch).

Doug
 
Doug,
Yes, I experienced the bladder system freezing up and that is the reason I've switched to insulated nalgene bottles. On this particular hike, I had one bottle attached to the front of my shoulder strap (within easy access) and another one in my pack. I had been stopping to drink often, or so I thought, but apparently I needed to consume more fluid on the ascent than I did. I also drank a liter of water on the drive up. Perhaps I'll try gatorade--that worked well during the summer hikes. If I can figure out a way to minimize or eliminate the bladder system freezing problem, I'll post the results. Whatever the case, I will be sure to have the insulated nalgene bottles as backups as you've suggested.
 
Jen-san said:
Yes, I experienced the bladder system freezing up and that is the reason I've switched to insulated nalgene bottles. On this particular hike, I had one bottle attached to the front of my shoulder strap (within easy access) and another one in my pack. I had been stopping to drink often, or so I thought, but apparently I needed to consume more fluid on the ascent than I did. I also drank a liter of water on the drive up. Perhaps I'll try gatorade--that worked well during the summer hikes. If I can figure out a way to minimize or eliminate the bladder system freezing problem, I'll post the results. Whatever the case, I will be sure to have the insulated nalgene bottles as backups as you've suggested.
I find that if I am sweating to any significant degree (winter or summer) I have to pay attention to electrolytes. In winter, I carry a simplified "mix"--Morton Lite Salt (NaCl+KCl)--which I add to my water as needed. Search on "morton lite salt"--it should bring up 5 threads with more info.

One form of backup for the bladder might be an empty (insulated) Nalgene. If the tube freezes, just pour the water into the Nalgene. (A bit lighter that carrying a full bottle.)
 
I keep an insulated nalgene on my pack, another hot water liter in my pack and a thermos of something hot. Right now I'm big into Matcha Lattes for my thermos, a hot drink sure is great on the trail.

https://www.yuzumura.com/pc-57-26-ippuku-matcha-latte-mix.aspx
Plus, its a real pick me up!


Stopping and drinking is a pain, but since you are hiking with BigEarl, you guys can take turns pulling water off eachothers packs!

I find it very hard to drink enough on winter hikes, so I try to really camel-up before I head out there. Also, using something like EmergenC in your water can help with the cramps as well as making water more interesting.
 
Last edited:
Well una_dogger, you've got my attention.

Where can Matcha Latte mix be found? Is it available locally or is on-line the only choice? How far will a one pound bag go? My thermos bottles are all at least one quart, which would be the normal batch size.

I'm usually a coffee hound but try to avoid the stuff after noon. This sounds interesting. You mentioned this is a pick-me-up drink. Is this because of caffeine content or something similar?

Thanks,
Earl
 
Hey Big Earl!
Its a sweet green tea powder and has a powdered milk base. Its caffeinated but not as much as coffee. Its also got all the benefits of drinking green tea, which is high in antioxidants.

Trader Joe's sells it in the hot cocoa section, but I think their's is too sweet and not green-tea-ee enough. You can get a hot cup of it at Starbucks, if you want to try it first. They also sell it as a cold frappucino, with some raspberry syrup drizzled on top. Yum.

I used four tablespoons to make a thermos-full the others day. One pound package lasts a looonnng time!
 
Jen-san said:
Doug,
Yes, I experienced the bladder system freezing up and that is the reason I've switched to insulated nalgene bottles. On this particular hike, I had one bottle attached to the front of my shoulder strap (within easy access) and another one in my pack. I had been stopping to drink often, or so I thought, but apparently I needed to consume more fluid on the ascent than I did. I also drank a liter of water on the drive up. Perhaps I'll try gatorade--that worked well during the summer hikes. If I can figure out a way to minimize or eliminate the bladder system freezing problem, I'll post the results. Whatever the case, I will be sure to have the insulated nalgene bottles as backups as you've suggested.

I find that front-loading helps, as una_dogger recommends and as you did on the drive up. If you can, you might try to get even more than a liter in you before you start the hike. I do find that factory-mixed Gatorade helps, because it tastes good to me and the small amount of oil helps it slide down a dry winter throat easier. (I save the powdered version for summer.)

Guys have an advantage -- we can visually "test" our hydration much easier, especially while wearing all that winter clothing. But that doesn't mean that you should be skipping the test. If you don't need to take the test, you're not drinking enough, whatever your gender.
 
una_dogger said:
I keep an insulated nalgene on my pack, another hot water liter in my pack and a thermos of something hot. Right now I'm big into Matcha Lattes for my thermos, a hot drink sure is great on the trail.

Thanks for reminding me, I need to find my thermos! I kept thinking about hot chocolate while hiking last Sunday. I need to bring it along next time!
 
Hey, speaking of color, probably a good time to mention two decent rules of thumb...

Drink *before* you get thirsty. If you wait until you're thirsty, you are already starting to be dehydrated.

Drink enough that you are peeing clear, if not colorless as well. Light yellow is fine, but a dark yellow or any kind of cloudy means you're getting seriously dehydrated.
 
Last year I was having problems with freezing tubes and water bottles.

I have started taking a no frills 1 quart stainless steel thermos. The hot liquid really hits the spot and you will definitly drink the treat at breaks rather than triing to drink an ice cold water if you are cold.

For extended trips drink your water bottles first and save the thermos drink for later in the day.
 
MichaelJ said:
Hey, speaking of color, probably a good time to mention two decent rules of thumb...

Drink *before* you get thirsty. If you wait until you're thirsty, you are already starting to be dehydrated.

Drink enough that you are peeing clear, if not colorless as well. Light yellow is fine, but a dark yellow or any kind of cloudy means you're getting seriously dehydrated.

Ayuh, this is the "test" I was referring to oh-so-obliquely above. ;)
 
Top