Hiring A Mountain Guide Service

[DayTrip]

Next year I'm interested in doing some sort of guided climb out West. Not sure exactly where yet. Thinking something like a Mt Whitney via the Mountaineering Route, something non-glaciated or just generally a "real" mountain where mountaineering skills (i.e. rock climbing with ropes and protection) are not a prerequisite for the trip. Basically I'd want to report to an office somewhere and meet up with someone who has handled all the legwork of permits, logistics, etc and takes me out on the climb.

I'd imagine many people here have used guide services based on the vast amount of trips I have seen references to all over the globe. I'm curious how you go about finding a respectable guiding service and avoid the fly-by-night hack outfits as well as the wildly overpriced hand holding services. Anyone care to recommend a guiding company they have used in the past and were very happy with? What criteria did you use in the selection process? Anything you'd do differently if you hired another company? Any feedback on the subject would be appreciated.

 

[Sanbu]

I have hired guides, though not out West, so can't suggest a service. What I'd do differently: make sure you and the guide agree on the itinerary. I found that making assumptions ahead of time can lead to disputes in the field. I assumed that the hike out would be via route A. The guide refused and said it had to be by route B, which was shorter. I agreed in the end, as my route would have cost more in fees and time. Also, if you discuss the itinerary with the guide's boss, make sure the guide is on the same page with that discussion. Finally, if the guide will be cooking/providing food, make sure to declare your food preferences up front.

 

[skiguy]

Do your research. There are good guides, not so good guides and really bad guides. Be sure you ask any guide service for a list of references from previous clients and speak with them personally.

 

[jfb]

Next year I'm interested in doing some sort of guided climb out West. Not sure exactly where yet. Thinking something like a Mt Whitney via the Mountaineering Route, something non-glaciated or just generally a "real" mountain where mountaineering skills (i.e. rock climbing with ropes and protection) are not a prerequisite for the trip. Basically I'd want to report to an office somewhere and meet up with someone who has handled all the legwork of permits, logistics, etc and takes me out on the climb.

If you were interested in learning basic mountaineering skills and summiting a real peak, the Exum Guides in the Tetons would be a good choice. A trip up South or Middle Teton would be fine for a beginner. Be careful about trying a 14,000 footer because some people have trouble adjusting to altitude.

 

[DayTrip]

If you were interested in learning basic mountaineering skills and summiting a real peak, the Exum Guides in the Tetons would be a good choice. A trip up South or Middle Teton would be fine for a beginner. Be careful about trying a 14,000 footer because some people have trouble adjusting to altitude.

I'll check that out. The Tetons are one of the areas I've had on my "list of places I want to visit that I can actually afford" so that would work out nicely.

 

[David Metsky]

I'll check that out. The Tetons are one of the areas I've had on my "list of places I want to visit that I can actually afford" so that would work out nicely.

Ask for Scott McGee, feel free to drop my name. It may or may not help.

 

[TEO]

What are your motivations for wanting to do a guided hike? You've mentioned handling the permitting, logistics, and other legwork.

You might reconsider the need for a guide. There are a number of big mountains out West that are eminently doable with basic mountaineering skills and equipment. You might feel otherwise, but I have found that the planning part is one of the best parts. Not only does it build your anticipation to another level, but it helps you development your own trip-planning and logistics skill sets. Over the course of your research and planning, you will learn in-depth about the mountain and the surrounding area.

Mt. Shasta comes first to mind. It is comparable in height and size to Rainier, by some measurements it is larger. While their are several technical, glaciated routes, there are a number of non-glaciated routes that are easily within the skill set of an experienced White Mountain winter hiker, the most popular being Avalanche Gulch. Other than perhaps a four-season tent, you will have all of the necessary equipment. Permitting is easy, and there is a ton of easily available information on the web and at least good guidebook solely for the mountain. Mt. Lassen is a good nearby warm-up hike. Depending on how much time you have, and how much driving you are up for, you could evening include Mt. St. Helens, and some of the other PNW volcanoes. And Crater Lake—a must visit—is nearby, too. Cheap flights are available if you fly in and out of the Bay area.

 

[DayTrip]

What are your motivations for wanting to do a guided hike? You've mentioned handling the permitting, logistics, and other legwork.

You might reconsider the need for a guide. There are a number of big mountains out West that are eminently doable with basic mountaineering skills and equipment. You might feel otherwise, but I have found that the planning part is one of the best parts. Not only does it build your anticipation to another level, but it helps you development your own trip-planning and logistics skill sets. Over the course of your research and planning, you will learn in-depth about the mountain and the surrounding area.

Mt. Shasta comes first to mind. It is comparable in height and size to Rainier, by some measurements it is larger. While their are several technical, glaciated routes, there are a number of non-glaciated routes that are easily within the skill set of an experienced White Mountain winter hiker, the most popular being Avalanche Gulch. Other than perhaps a four-season tent, you will have all of the necessary equipment. Permitting is easy, and there is a ton of easily available information on the web and at least good guidebook solely for the mountain. Mt. Lassen is a good nearby warm-up hike. Depending on how much time you have, and how much driving you are up for, you could evening include Mt. St. Helens, and some of the other PNW volcanoes. And Crater Lake—a must visit—is nearby, too. Cheap flights are available if you fly in and out of the Bay area.

My motivation was probably a rough 50/50 split between the planning headaches and the possibility of roped travel/climbing knowledge on many of these awesome peaks.

From the planning side, I enjoy the hell out of planning a hike, going over the maps, obsessing over the gear, etc. I haven't researched a trip yet in much detail but it sounded like a lot of the more prominent peaks and parks worked off lottery systems, had huge wait lists for permits or you had to show up first thing AM and get on a wait list. Many articles I read really harp on the pain in the ass of lining up permits. Local knowledge like finding the trail heads when they are off the beaten path, knowing the wild life situation (i.e. bears, mountain lions,etc), etc was probably somewhat of a factor too.

From the technical side, I have zero experience climbing with ropes, protection, etc nor do I own any gear like that other than a basic helmet. I've obviously done all the trails in NH and am comfortable scrambling on what we have (although there are a few trails I wouldn't descend like Huntington), I have no issue using crampons, ice axe, etc. Some of these peaks sound beyond that skill level though to get all the way to summit. Then of course there is glaciated travel, another area I have zero experience with and as a solo hiker would probably be a needlessly excessive risk not knowing the areas I'd be in at all. I have full 4 season gear so camping is not a problem.

I wouldn't be opposed to (and would prefer) any of these peaks where there aren't any glaciers/crevasse issues and it would be possible to secure a permit without too much trouble. Mt Whitney seemed like it fit the bill but it also sounded like everybody and their brother climbs it in the Summer and it honestly didn't sound that fun. I'm not necessarily looking for a well known, "peakbagging" peak but just an accessible big mountain with difficult but not necessarily dangerous terrain. I'll check out that route you mentioned on Mt Shasta. Thanks.

EDIT: Knowing this forum, I'm sure someone is already going over this post with a fine tooth comb questioning that I have "obviously done all the trails in NH". I haven't done ALL the trails and am not a red-liner. I meant that I had done all of the ravine routes and "terrifying 25" type stuff and generally enjoy these trails.

 

[Nessmuk]

I don't know about what may be offered in individual states out west, but there is probably something similar to the NYS Licensed Outdoor Guides Association (NYSOGA), which is an excellent site listing guides by type of service. http://nysoga.org

 

[TEO]

From the technical side, I have zero experience climbing with ropes, protection, etc nor do I own any gear like that other than a basic helmet. I've obviously done all the trails in NH and am comfortable scrambling on what we have (although there are a few trails I wouldn't descend like Huntington), I have no issue using crampons, ice axe, etc. Some of these peaks sound beyond that skill level though to get all the way to summit. Then of course there is glaciated travel, another area I have zero experience with and as a solo hiker would probably be a needlessly excessive risk not knowing the areas I'd be in at all. I have full 4 season gear so camping is not a problem.

I wouldn't be opposed to (and would prefer) any of these peaks where there aren't any glaciers/crevasse issues and it would be possible to secure a permit without too much trouble. Mt Whitney seemed like it fit the bill but it also sounded like everybody and their brother climbs it in the Summer and it honestly didn't sound that fun. I'm not necessarily looking for a well known, "peakbagging" peak but just an accessible big mountain with difficult but not necessarily dangerous terrain. I'll check out that route you mentioned on Mt Shasta. Thanks.

The most popular routes up Shasta are non-glaciated and non-technical—ropes are not required. Crampons and a piolet (mountaineering axe) are all that is needed in the spring season, assuming the avy danger is low. Routes like Avalanche Gulch, Clear Creek, and the Hotlum-Wintun Ridge are steep snow climbs when done in late-spring/early-summer.

Here's a good starting place for info. You will note that they talk about permits. Free wilderness permits and $25 3-day summit permits are self-issue, and available at the Ranger Station in town and at all trailheads. Longer summit permits are available from the Ranger Station. There is also cheap lodging and stealth camping possibilities in the area. You can do the trip for basically the cost of airfare, car rental, gas, and food, and possibly stove purchase or rental if you don't want to fly with one.

Regarding the Mountaineers Route on Whitney, one of my partners on my first climb up Shasta, went down and bagged Whitney via the Mountaineer's Route solo afterward. My impression from him is that it was a step up in difficulty from Shasta's Avalanche Gulch route, with some increased exposure in places, but still non-technical.

 

[DayTrip]

The most popular routes up Shasta are non-glaciated and non-technical—ropes are not required. Crampons and a piolet (mountaineering axe) are all that is needed in the spring season, assuming the avy danger is low. Routes like Avalanche Gulch, Clear Creek, and the Hotlum-Wintun Ridge are steep snow climbs when done in late-spring/early-summer.

Here's a good starting place for info. You will note that they talk about permits. Free wilderness permits and $25 3-day summit permits are self-issue, and available at the Ranger Station in town and at all trailheads. Longer summit permits are available from the Ranger Station. There is also cheap lodging and stealth camping possibilities in the area. You can do the trip for basically the cost of airfare, car rental, gas, and food, and possibly stove purchase or rental if you don't want to fly with one.

Regarding the Mountaineers Route on Whitney, one of my partners on my first climb up Shasta, went down and bagged Whitney via the Mountaineer's Route solo afterward. My impression from him is that it was a step up in difficulty from Shasta's Avalanche Gulch route, with some increased exposure in places, but still non-technical.

That is actually the route I looked at on Whitney. From what I could see the rope/technical section was almost at the top and was a function of snow and ice from year to year. If there is none then you take a switchback out and back on the rocks. Otherwise they rope up and climb straight up the snowfield. Thanks for the link. I will research further.

 

[Puma concolor]

Good thread. Interesting lines of discussion.

Couple of points to throw into the pile from someone who has done a handful of guided climbs out west.

First, it has always been a very tough call for me as to whether to go solo, try to build my own team (or become part of someone else’s) or to just go guided and have nothing to worry about other than equipment and fitness. All have their advantages and ultimately I enjoy the variety of approaches to “big” western climbs.

But directly to the point, I have done six guided climbs in the western US spread among four different guide services. Did Gannett (Wyoming) and Granite (Montana) with Jackson Hole Mountain Guides. Climbed Rainier (twice) with International Mountain Guides, climbed Mount Hood with Timberline Mountain Guides and summited Denali with American Alpine Institute. All successful climbs. I guess my big point here is that if you are going to spend the $$$ for a guide service on a substantial peak, don’t chinse out, and pick the best guide service for the specific mountain. Do it right as it is ultimately way more expensive to plan another trip if things don’t work out the first time. Hiring a guide, to me, is about maximizing your chances of success in an area where you have a fundamental lack of the kind of familiarity as you probably have in the New England mountains.

Having said all of that, if it was me doing the Whitney Mountaineers Route and I wanted a guide, I would 100 percent go with Sierra Mountain Guides ...

http://www.sierramtnguides.com/program/mount-whitney-mountaineers-route/

I know a couple of folks who did the MR unguided and I did the 99 switchbacks hiker’s route on Whitney back in 2009. To each his/her own. Whitney is a great mountain and there is no “right” way to summit it.

Also, I am pretty jazzed about my planned unguided solo on Shasta’s Avalanche Gulch Route in about 5.5 months. So there’s that. Woot.

 

[DayTrip]

Excellent. I believe Sierra Mountain Guides was the website I was on looking at Whitney and as least as far as the site seemed it looked like a pretty good outfit. Thanks for info.

 

[ChrisB]

Excellent. I believe Sierra Mountain Guides was the website I was on looking at Whitney and as least as far as the site seemed it looked like a pretty good outfit. Thanks for info.

One element of a guided experience that has not been mentioned so far is the learning opportunity. A really good guide is also a teacher and mentor. H/she wants to do more than merely drag clients up a route.

With that in mind, consider stretching a bit when choosing a guided climb. If you can hook up with a guide like that, you can learn new skills you might not have explored on your own. These could include glacier travel, ice axe/crampon technique, rope climbing, establishing safe belays, route finding and more.

cb

 

[DayTrip]

One element of a guided experience that has not been mentioned so far is the learning opportunity. A really good guide is also a teacher and mentor. H/she wants to do more than merely drag clients up a route.

With that in mind, consider stretching a bit when choosing a guided climb. If you can hook up with a guide like that, you can learn new skills you might not have explored on your own. These could include glacier travel, ice axe/crampon technique, rope climbing, establishing safe belays, route finding and more.

cb

This is definitely a factor for me. Doing some basic roped climbing would be something I have never done and would be nice to learn some basics. Have to balance it all out in the cost as I research.