How Do I Adjust Grivel G10 Crampons?

[DayTrip]

Based on feedback on VFTT and other websites I purchased a pair of Grivel G10 crampons for the winter season. They seem like a popular and reliable model.

I went through the instructions and I do not understand how to adjust the width to fit my boots. In the instructions there is a pin in the front section of crampons that you adjust by bolting through one of the holes in the track (I have a little package with two bolts in it). However my crampons do not have a hole in the front section. The front section "floats" on a tongue shaped extension of the metal bar with the holes. They have a hole through the heel section. And this part of the crampon does not move because there is a fixed stud pinning it in place through the hole.

Do I pop that fixed pin out and the use my included bolts in the hole that fits my boots? That is not how the instructions describe it (assuming I understand them correctly). If I push hard enough on that fixed bolt and flex the steel plate it is molded to it feels like I could get it high enough to then slide the adjustable rail under it and put in a different hole but I didn't want to break it. And if that is how you adjust then what are the two included bolts for? I searched YouTube and found numerous videos about adjusting the Grivel crampons but they all gloss over this critical part without showing.

Another question I had was on the sharpness of the points. There are two spikes on the heel section that seem sharp and pointy but all the other spikes on thee front section are pretty rounded and dull. Is that normal? Does your weight drive those points in? Based on all the articles about people tearing their hiking pants to ribbons with crampons I was expecting much sharper points than that. The points on my Microspikes are sharper. I see nothing in instructions about sharpening. I assume this is normal??

Could use a little help on this if anyone out there has that brand of crampon. Thanks.

 

[nartreb]

You can't adjust the width. You can only adjust the length.

Slide the toe section all the way forward. Once it's on your boot, the toe section won't be able to slide backward again. Place your boot on the crampon as if stepping into the binding: is the crampon too short? Too long? There's a leaf spring that lets you pop out the pin at the front of the heel section, so you can move it to the hole you like. Move your boot out of the way, keep the toe section all the way forward as best you can, and adjust the crampon's length by moving the heel so the pin goes into a different hole in the bar. Repeat as necessary.

The bolts are optional. You can use them to make an extra-short crampon (prevent the toe section from sliding forward to the end of the bar, see illustration [#3 with arrow] in instructions) or an extra-long one (allow the heel section to slide all the way back to the end of the bar where the spring-loaded pin wouldn't hold it).

 

[TDawg]

I thought the same about the sharpness when I got my G10s, 5 years or so years ago. I used them as is without killing myself, but you're gonna want to get a mill file and sharpen those puppies up. I feel much more confident in their bite now after doing so.

Also, invest in a crampon bag or something to cover the points for when they're not on your feet.

 

[nartreb]

Does your weight drive those points in?

Yes. You can sharpen crampon points with a file, but I'd be very surprised if you needed to, assuming your crampons aren't obviously damaged. They'll still shred your pants if you're not careful.

Edit: reading this again

There are two spikes on the heel section that seem sharp and pointy but all the other spikes on thee front section are pretty rounded and dull. Is that normal?

This is rather surprising. They should all be about the same sharpness, perhaps you should give them a few swipes with a file after all.

PS Tdawg's advice for point covers is good. In my experience they tend to break and get lost, but replacing point covers is easier than repairing a backpack. (I never liked crampon bags; YMMV)

 

[Kevin Rooney]

If you were to compare the G10 with the G12, you'd see that the points are sharper on the G12. The G12 is designed for use on steeper mountains, with harder ice. If you find the G10's are "too dull", then consider BD's Contact Strap model. Still 10 points, but they've very sharp.

Unless I'm wearing plastic boots, I set my G10's in "flexible mode" so there's some play between the heel and toe pieces, and therefore less stress on the connecting bar. My winter boots are stiff, but not completely rigid, so in the flexible position the crampon tends to adjust to the boot with each step. Removing the bar completely from the two brackets holding it to the front section, and then replacing it, but slipping it thru only the rear-most bracket (under the instep), and then adjusting the crampons for length, will provide a bit a flexibility.

It's also a good idea to carry a spare connector bar in your MacGiver kit for field repairs.

 

[Chip]

"There is another..."

This is a wider G10, but I doubt you'd need it.
Once the length is adjusted (as above) and they are strapped on properly (cranked down), you'll probably be surprised by how well they stay on your boot.

 

[sardog1]

"There is another..."

I swear to God, I was thinking about that movie last week. Man, you must be really old …

EDIT: Turns out the whippersnapper was referring above to some other flick that came out years later. Let the record show he's not all that old … by comparison.

 

[DayTrip]

Thanks all. I did mean length from toe to heel. Bad choice of words in my original post. Now that I'm confident I won't break the pin by moving it I will do that. I guess I'll see how they perform "out of the box" before I take a file to them.

 

[erugs]

For carrying, I wrap my crampons points-to-points and have never had a problem with them. A friend does the same, but wraps a pillow case around them. I think crampon bags add unnecessary cost and weight. Also, I carry a wrench and spare bolt/nut with me, in addition to an extra T-bar with my Grivels but have only needed to use either of those once, each.

 

[RoySwkr]

For carrying, I wrap my crampons points-to-points ...I think crampon bags add unnecessary cost and weight.

Some models of crampons can be folded in half which is a form of point-to-point, others you face the pair. Of course the upper frame while maybe not sharp can be uncomfortable, and some points may stick out.

I put mine in a corrugated cardboard box, cost 0 and little weight which I justify by calling it an emergency fire-starter.

 

[Lawn Sale]

I have a few crampon bags and do use them since they tend to tear up anything in close proximity, even when stored face to face. I used to lash them to the pack with the points facing out but too many people were giving me crap about possibly falling and hurting either myself (???) or them.

 

[DougPaul]

Based on all the articles about people tearing their hiking pants to ribbons with crampons I was expecting much sharper points than that.

If you sharpen the crampons, make sure you remove any burrs--they catch in clothing.

Also wear gaiters, preferably made of cordura. Floppy pant legs are an invitation to a disaster.

One also learns to walk carefully when wearing crampons, for instance turning your ankle outward when moving your foot forward and perhaps swinging the foot a bit farther to the side than usual.

Doug

 

[RoySwkr]

Based on all the articles about people tearing their hiking pants to ribbons with crampons I was expecting much sharper points than that.

I not only have holes in wind pants but after one blustery day staggering around above treeline I found a hole in my boot

 

[DayTrip]

One also learns to walk carefully when wearing crampons, for instance turning your ankle outward when moving your foot forward and perhaps swinging the foot a bit farther to the side than usual.

Doug

Could you expand on the walking comment? I watched a view You Tube videos from some well known winter expert (I forget his name) and he demonstrated walking in an almost sideways fashion, stepping over each foot up the slope and zig zagging in tiny switchbacks, almost as if ice skating in slow motion. They were on a very steep slope so maybe that is not as applicable to what I'd be doing in the Whites. (Not sure if that adequately describes what I mean).

Just curious what you meant by turning the ankle out. Do you mean walking in a bow-legged fashion and getting the feet a little outside the shoulders?

EDIT: By "ice skating" it was more like the way speed skaters go through corners stepping over their feet, not the traditional straight skating motion of swaying side to side.

 

[DougPaul]

Just curious what you meant by turning the ankle out. Do you mean walking in a bow-legged fashion and getting the feet a little outside the shoulders?

The goal is to keep the points on the unweighted foot a bit farther from the weighted foot and leg when swinging the unweighted foot forward. I do this by turning my ankle outward and swinging the leg (from the hip) a bit farther out than normal.

This applies to walking on the level. A number of different techniques are used as the angle increases.

BTW: front points are particularly dangerous to one's calves and for catching on clothing. Be particularly careful if your crampons have aggressive front points (required for ice climbing). The G10's look like they have medium-aggressive front points. ("Classic" 10-point hiking crampons have (non-aggressive) vertical front points and ice-climbing crampons have (aggressive) horizontal front points.)

Doug