John Bachar dies free-soloing

[Dr. Dasypodidae]

One of the pioneers of free-soloing on steep rock dies near home in California.

http://www.rockandice.com/inthemag.php?id=361&type=onlinenews

 

[Chip]

I wonder what the mind set is for people like that: Can't die or Could die any minute ? Probably the first, right ? Can't imagine the second would be very productive.

 

[TCD]

Solo climbing is another way to enjoy the outdoors. You can die hiking or bicycling, too. In fact, the maxim is that the most dangerous part of the day is driving to the cliff.

Solo climbing can't be recommended, as it is clearly dangerous. But, as with a lot of other dangerous things, it is inspiring, relaxing, and it drives awareness and focus.

For a lot of insight, read through some of the posts on

www.supertopo.com

Many tributes from friends and fellow climbers.

TCD

 

[Chip]

You can die hiking or bicycling, too. In fact, the maxim is that the most dangerous part of the day is driving to the cliff.

TCD

I understand. Free Soloing, though, is another level. I don't know what to compare it to. There aren't many sports where one tiny mistake will most certainly result in death.

 

[Trainwreck]

I admire the physical and mental fortitude of free soloists.. In fact, Steph Davis is one of my heros.

That said, I think it is a bit out there. Crazy even, but to each his/her own.
May he rest in peace.

 

[cbcbd]

A real climbing legend. He did some amazing stuff and seemed to just disappear too soon. Short good article from the AAC:
http://inclined.americanalpineclub.org/2009/07/07/john-bachar-–-party-of-one/

And let's remember, you don't need 5.11s to find yourself in a no-fall situation. One person's 5.11 is another's 5.5, which is another's 4th class, which is another's 3rd class... and so forth. Who here has "soloed" the Precipice trail at Acadia?

Can't die or Could die any minute ?

I think neither. Once "dying" crosses your mind then you've lost the mindset. You just have to be in the tunnel vision of the moment and ignore the exposure... remember the saying "don't look down"? Climbing at night helps.

There is a guy I've seen around here who free solos regularly... saw him topping out on a 3 pitch 5.10b at Castle Rock... head-phones on, meticulous movements, calmness, almost caressing the rock at each hold. Total peace and zen. Probably the smoothest climber on the rock that day.

 

[leaf]

There is a guy I've seen around here who free solos regularly... saw him topping out on a 3 pitch 5.10b at Castle Rock... head-phones on, meticulous movements, calmness, almost caressing the rock at each hold. Total peace and zen. Probably the smoothest climber on the rock that day.

Wonder what tunes he was listening to.

and i agree.. i'd imagine in free solo headspace there's probably so much focus and clarity that there's no room for anything else or even a thought of thinking about anything else. i'd imagine so much so, that you don't have to concentrate too hard. if that makes any sense.

 

[J.Dub]

I admire the physical and mental fortitude of free soloists.. In fact, Steph Davis is one of my heros.

That said, I think it is a bit out there. Crazy even, but to each his/her own.
May he rest in peace.

Yepper. Free-soloing is pretty out-there IMHO, but the mental (not to mention the physical) limits pushed by these folks is pretty amazing.

Just a coupla weeks ago I was watching an online video of Steph Davis soloing The Diamond (Long's Peak) and it's friggin' impressive. And if you haven't seen the video of her hubby (though I thought I read something that he's now an ex-) Dean Potter's free solo of The Nose on El Cap, you'll be amazed.

The guy to watch now is Alex Honnold, a 22-year-old who has already soloed Astroman (5.11c) in Yos and Moonlight Buttress (5.12d) in Zion. Unbelievable!

The ugly downside to free soloing, course, is that the penalty for a mistake is pretty steep.

 

[DougPaul]

The ugly downside to free soloing, course, is that the penalty for a mistake is pretty steep.

Or bad luck, eg rockfall, a loose hold, etc.

Doug

 

[Chip]

I think neither. Once "dying" crosses your mind then you've lost the mindset. You just have to be in the tunnel vision of the moment and ignore the exposure... remember the saying "don't look down"?

You're probably right, like Nike..."Just Do It."

Couple of questions: Do these guys typically only free solo routes or do they climb with pro to work it out first ? And how are they getting down, generally ?

 

[Little Rickie]

I wonder what the mind set is for people like that:

Adrenaline. I imagine they climb to live life to it's fullest and to feel/experience all of lifes energies flowing & pulsing through them.

Natural high, once felt it becomes addicting and one pushs on for more of it.

 

[leaf]

Couple of questions: Do these guys typically only free solo routes or do they climb with pro to work it out first ? And how are they getting down, generally ?

i think mostly they climb with pro and work it out first.

some climbers have parachutes and so they kinda base jump down. others, like the diamond on long's peak (if i'm not mistaken) has a hiking trail on the other side.

 

[leaf]

Adrenaline.

i'm nowhere near considering myself a climber.. i haven't led yet. just followed and been doing it for two summers, so maybe this is why - but i haven't really experienced major adrenaline while climbing.

personally, i climb to find focus, a clear head and accomplishment that i don't get in my everyday life. i also climb to scare myself.. hehe. there's a bit of adrenline there, but i can't climb under those conditions.. it's only when i relax and stay calm and go past that adrenaline-fear factor that i'm able to do well. and i love when i get there.

 

[DougPaul]

I wonder what the mind set is for people like that: Can't die or Could die any minute ? Probably the first, right ? Can't imagine the second would be very productive.

My guess would be focus and commitment. When any false move can cost you your life, you tend to focus on the task at hand. Thinking about the consequences of a fall or the overdue rent are dangerous distractions...


Background:
I used to rock and ice climb (including leading), but only free soloed very easy stuff.

Doug

 

[cbcbd]

There aren't many sports where one tiny mistake will most certainly result in death.

I guess this is where this quote comes in:
"There are only 3 real sports: bull-fighting, car racing and mountain climbing. All the others are mere games." - Hemingway

Couple of questions: Do these guys typically only free solo routes or do they climb with pro to work it out first ? And how are they getting down, generally ?

I think it depends. I don't think guys like Bachar free soloed climbs as a project, it was just their preferred way of climbing, so a lot of it was onsight.
The late RI native, Michael Reardon (freesoloist.com), the next gen after Bachar, did a lot of onsight climbs. Here are some of his onsights:

# Onsight solo of Outrage (5.13a) at Boney Bluffs
# Onsight solo of Romantic Warrior (V 5.12b), Sea of Tranquility (V 5.11d, A0) and the first ascent solo of Shikata Ga Nai (V 5.12) at the Needles, CA
# Onsight solo of 214 routes in England including Neon Dust (5.13b/c)
# Onsight solo of 240 routes in Ireland including the first ascent of Rainy Days (5.12+) at Ailladie

He died after being washed away by a rogue wave.

And getting down depends on the climb, with or without a rope. Some are walkoffs, others are not. I'm sure even if they didn't plan on carrying a rope for a rap they had one stashed at the top or just carry one with them. El Cap routes are walk-offs, same in the Gunks (most, although you usually don't, and there are rap stations you can use), or Ragged Mtn...

Dean Potter on The Nose - 5.9 C2
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fwV5t7IgCHI

 

[Nif]

There is a guy I've seen around here who free solos regularly... saw him topping out on a 3 pitch 5.10b at Castle Rock... head-phones on, meticulous movements, calmness, almost caressing the rock at each hold. Total peace and zen. Probably the smoothest climber on the rock that day.

I took my first anchor class from a guy out at Joshua tree. Watch him solo 5.10a later that day. First time I had seen anyone solo. He was smooth and methodical;absolutely amazing just as you describe above. I had to chuckle at the fact that I was learning to place pro from a guy who didn't use a rope.

It's pretty common to see guys soloing at Eldo as well. Everytime I've been there they are out. Some are absolutely smooth and obviously masters of their craft. Other just have something to prove. We got cut off, twice, by soloists jumping on the bastille crack ahead of us. I joked soloists must have the right of way. First guy was awesome, the second I stepped away from the base of the route....

The guys who should be doing it, and Bachar was one, are inspiring. For those that are interested he posted on Supertopo. There are a few threads going on over there about the accident,his life, and his memory.

 

[J.Dub]

And getting down depends on the climb, with or without a rope. Some are walkoffs, others are not. I'm sure even if they didn't plan on carrying a rope for a rap they had one stashed at the top or just carry one with them. El Cap routes are walk-offs, same in the Gunks (most, although you usually don't, and there are rap stations you can use), or Ragged Mtn...

Steph and Dean are both fans of BASE jumping to get back down. So, instead of a walk-off, would this be a "fly-off"...?

I had to chuckle at the fact that I was learning to place pro from a guy who didn't use a rope.

That is pretty funny. (Ironic funny, not "ha-ha" funny.)



Speaking of quotes, when I think about freesoloing and the inherent risks therein, I'm reminded of this Yoda classic:

"Do. Or do not. There is no try."

 

[skiguy]

This is sad news. We stayed at the same camp as John at J Tree in the late 70's. Nice Guy. People like him in those days were said to have come from a different planet. My old pair of Fires on the shelf will now have a new meaning. Between this and Shane Mckonky it has not been a good year for my Hero list. God Speed!

 

[Little Rickie]

i'm nowhere near considering myself a climber.. i haven't led yet. just followed and been doing it for two summers, so maybe this is why - but i haven't really experienced major adrenaline while climbing.

personally, i climb to find focus, a clear head and accomplishment that i don't get in my everyday life. i also climb to scare myself.. hehe. there's a bit of adrenline there, but i can't climb under those conditions.. it's only when i relax and stay calm and go past that adrenaline-fear factor that i'm able to do well. and i love when i get there.

I'm not saying adrenline is the just result of fear or it is a bad thing at all but it is a strong thing and part of the experience. Endorphins anyone. Their free but you have to work for them.

 

[buddy]

obligation

These posts put an issue in my face that I have struggled with for a long time. Before I had children of my own, my paddling partner and I regularly paddled Class 5 white water in a tandem open canoe. It was and is my passion, the time in my life when I was at my happiest and most exillerated. Sure I could have cut back to safer class 3/4 runs, but they didn't do it for me, probably like climbing roped in did not do it for John Bacher. I decided to quit because I felt , at the time, it was irresponsible to participate in such a dangerous activity while being a father to young children. My wife probably would not have appreciated the amount of time away from the family that high level paddling requires. Now I'm not so sure. I want my son and daughter to live life to it's fullest, but did I? Canoeing is a bit different than unroped climbing in that a death usually occurs after a cascading series of events that evade the safety measures put in place. Unroped climbing seems like parachuting with one chute. If something goes wrong you're pretty much screwed, no second chances. Please do not take this post as a criticism of John Bacher, he is clearly a man who made choices that were right for him and for that he has my total admiration. He is a true reflection of the human spirit and what it means to be alive. I just wish I had the same clarity he seemed to have. Perhaps the road I choose does not offer that. My deepest sympathies to his family and all who new him and may his memory inspire all of us to live life more fully. Buddy