Katahdin beta please ...

[JohnK]

Am planning a winter climb of Mt. Katahdin in January. Since not everyone in my party is a technical climber/climbs ice, am looking for the least technical winter route up the mountain. Any suggestion on routes?

Thanks and have a swell one > John

 

[spencer]

Hi John,

The Saddle Trail up from Chimney Pond is the least technical, but even that requires care and some experience. Everyone should be at least familiar with an axe and crampons and how to use them if they should take a slide.

spencer

 

[Tramper Al]

via Hamlin?

Hey Spencer,

I may have asked you this question the other day, but I was wicked tired at the time.

Would you not consider the route up via Hamlin Peak to be the least technical approach from Chimney Pond to Baxter Peak? I realize that this makes for a longer day, and that a party attempting such should be prepared to descend via the Saddle if necessary.

Thanks in advance,

 

[spencer]

Well, I haven't gone up to Hamlin via Hamlin Ridge in winter. You may well be right b/c there is no open snow field like there is on the Saddle trail. However, you are on a much narrower ridge as you ascend, leaving you even more exposed than on the Saddle. You could arrest a fall on the Saddle, but you would just bounce over rocks on the Hamlin Ridge Trail if you took a digger. Saddle can also be done with just snowshoes (with good shoe-crampons underfoot) while I suspect that wouldn't work on the Hamlin Ridge.

How about someone who's done Hamlin Ridge in winter?

Here is a pic of the Saddle trail nearing the top of the slide.

spencer

 

[Tramper Al]

Saddle can also be done with just snowshoes (with good shoe-crampons underfoot) while I suspect that wouldn't work on the Hamlin Ridge.

Ah, Hamlin Ridge must be steeper than I remember it (summer of course). I know that the Saddle carries some (usually very small?) risk of avalanche, yes? I think I have thus far managed to climb quite a few NE peaks without ever walking across an avalanche field!

 

[ChrisB]

Spencer,

I think Hamlin Ridge is technically easier than the Saddle as a winter route. It is never as steep, and the only potential danger I recall is a big drop-off into the NW Basin.

Having said that, I am not so sure it is safer. Doing Baxter via Hamlin adds a good bit to the distance above tree line. And, in case of trouble, could force a descent down the Saddle, which would be unfamiliar territory.

Also, I have descended the Saddle when it was rock-hard snow where an unarrested fall would not be pretty. Athough the Saddle has a better runout than the Fan in Huntington's, it is still a potentially a long and fast ride. When we came down it we fixed a 300-foot line from the lip down to provide some members of the group with a bit of security as they went over the edge.

No matter what route you choose, I believe the Park considers it a technical climb and will require the usual gear and knowledge of its use.

cb

 

[SherpaKroto]

I'd feel a bit exposed on Hamlin Ridge in all but the best of winter days. I imagine that the ridge gets fairly iced up and a slip could send you into a long and bumpy ride left or right. The relative shelter of Saddle trail will carry more snow, which if very recent will make for a tough slog, but should still provide the "easiest" (term used loosely) and "safest" (again) route up.

JohnK: There is that sticky little issue of Roaring Brook/Chimney Pond bunkspace. If you don't already have that secured, then this discussion is moot (I'll wager all spaces in true winter are already accounted for). That would make the Abol slide route as the only alternative that I am aware of. Do you have spots, and where?

 

[JohnK]

Bunk space ...

hey, thanks for the beta - I really appreciate it! Now in terms of bunk space, no, I haven't secured it - was just about to send in my application for a permit. However, is securing a bunk the only option? - my plan has been to camp out and not stay in a bunkhouse/climber's shelter.

thanks again > John

 

[spencer]

JohnK, I'd be very surprised if you couldn't get some lean-to space for January at CP. It's best to give headquarters a call (207.723.5140) before you send in your application. Ask them the dates that are available and then send your form in right away. That will lead to less disappointment.

I prefer camping to bunkhouses, especially at $37 a pop (only for CP). The CP bunkhouse is tight, smelly, and dark.

just b/c SK wants a bunk doesn't mean that's the only way

spencer

 

[twigeater]

The only thing about a lean-to at Chimney Pond in the winter is no camp fire if you like to have one while winter camping.

There is a yurt just below the bunkhouse, but I'm not sure how BSP is managing it now. A couple years ago, it was expiramental, and was being offered to tenters who already had reservations and were willing to try it out...I guess it worked because it's still there and a new outhouse is going in for it.

Do you know how it's being manged, spencer?

 

[Bushwacked]

Hey John, to quote:
"Since not everyone in my party is a technical climber/climbs ice..."

I'd define that a little bit. Are they comfortable w/ crampons/axe but don't climbe vertical ice? They're probably fine with either route. However, I sure wouldn't want to lead novices on either of those routes if it's their first time using crampons/axe. Depending on their general experience (are they experienced winter backpackers?), you may want to pick something a little less tough, which on K means probably another mountain altogether.

 

[spencer]

As far as I could tell from Stewart, the yurt is done.

they decided it wasn't cost efficient compared with bunkhouses b/c the yurts aren't durable enough to withstand the kind of use in 4 seasons they would receive.

I think it's just going to be used for storage and maybe research crews in the warmer season.

spencer

 

[twigeater]

Thanks spencer.
That's probably a good thing, because there was talk of tearing down the Chimney Pond bunkhouse if it worked out.

 

[JohnK]

Hey Bushwacked ...

you've asked a good question ... the party I will be leading is very experienced with winter mountaineering gear. However 1 person has not done any technical ice, and it is the technical ice that I would like to avoid. However, she has climbed (and summited) Kilimanjaro, Rainier, Denail, winter High Peaks in the Daks, and winter climbs of Washington in NH - so in my book she passes the experience test.

 

[SherpaKroto]

JohnK: Spencer is right, but get it done soon. He's also right about my wanting to bask in the relative comfort of a bunkhouse. After a long day, getting out of the wet clothes and warming the hands up is sweet. He does neglect to mention that God willing, I'll be doing it for 9 nights in February (5 with him), so a little comfort for this old boy is in order.

 

[Tramper Al]

Ice, technically speaking

However 1 person has not done any technical ice, and it is the technical ice that I would like to avoid.

I'm going to go out on a limb here and suggest that one or more non-ice climbers have successfully and safely summited Katahdin in winter.

SherpaK, 9 nights in a row? Goodness.

Thanks to all, though, as threads like these from those who go before me really help in the planning.

 

[Jasonst]

Please bear with this newbie question, but what does one do for 9 days straight out in the wilderness, presumably below zero? How does your stuff ever dry out? Yikes

 

[spencer]

SK is talking about 2 different trips in February.

Jason, I keep one outfit for wearing during the days. It usually stays cold and wet the whole time (from sweat). putting it on in the morning is the least fun part of any trip. before putting it on, you can break a lot of the ice off of it. not quite the same as drying, but it has the same effect.

I keep a second set that I wear only to sleep in, no exceptions.

that being said, I've never stayed out for 9 straight days, but the same holds for anything longer than 2 days, IMO.

spencer

 

[Frodo]

JohnK,

If your friend has climbed Rainier & Denali, then Katahdin in winter shouldn't be an issue. There is no vertical ice on any of the standard routes up. There is an ice flow that forms on the slabs that are OFF of the Cathedral Trail, but even the steep Cathedral Trail doesn't have vertical ice, or at least enough that you would have to rope up for.

I have been up (and down) the Saddle twice in winter, and though there is some avy danger to consider, I still think it is the safest route mainly for the reasons already pointed out (because it is so short, only 900' vertical, and sheltered from the wind). Heading up along the rocks on the left side of the headwall is a fairly safe route even if avy conditions are moderate (not that I recommend this) . As Spencer mentioned, the most likely conditions will be snow that can be climbed with either snowshoes or crampons. On our 2002 trip, 2 people in our group actually skied down the headwall...

If avy conditions were high in the Saddle, then Hamlin Ridge would make more sense.

Now dealing with all of the winter regulations is another story...

Have a fantastic trip! It's an awesome place to visit any time of the year...

 

[Tramper Al]

Two more questions ?

Hey,

There is some excellent information in here, thanks everyone.

May I ask a couple more questions on the very popular, and often safest approach up the Saddle Trail?

1) Where do you guys get your avalanche danger level assessment? From the Chimney Pond Ranger, or from your own field tests, or from somewhere else.

2) Do/did you carry beacons, probes, and shovels on your Saddle hike? Which are required by regs, and which does it just make sense to have because of the route.

Thanks, as ever,