Katahdin beta please ...

[spencer]

Tramper,

1) BSP makes a point that CP rangers are not trained avalanche forecasters. While I'm sure they'd offer advice and recommendations, they don't necessarily have the training. Neither do I, really. I've done a bit of beacon training and studied quite a bit (i.e. armchair) about avalanche assessment, but have never taken a full course. I have a friend who went out to BC to learn avalanches and snowboard for 10 days. I've been meaning for several years to rob a bank and do that. I don't own a beacon, but I used one when I co-led a party up Abol a couple of years ago. None of our party had any beacons or probes on Saddle last year.


2) avalanche gear is not required, but highly recommened by BSP staff and publications. The new Winter Use Information pamphlet (9/04) recommends them and refers readers to the Winter Admistrative Procedures handout which details the REQUIRED gear and makes some further recommendations.


spencer

 

[Mad Townie]

spencer,

Has the web site been updated to include the info from the new pamphlets? I checked it out, but I didn't see an indication of how recent the lists are.

Although I can't make a big Baxter trip this year (9 days, SherpaK? Sheesh! Don't you have to work, man?), I'm hoping to be able to put together a quick day run in to Abol with a climb, at least to the table lands. Light and (for me) quick. Of course, everything is relative.

Our 2 summit trips from CP have been via the Saddle and the Cathedral Gully (between Cathedral trail and the Saddle), both times in good, non-avy conditions. The CP rangers were helpful, but we had a couple guys who knew there (Oops! THEIR) stuff. The C. Gully was a good route up, though not as protected as the Saddle in windy conditions.

 

[SherpaKroto]

Glad the 9 days issue got straightened out. I couldn't even stand myself for 9 straight days out in winter . FWIW, my winter clothing routine is very similar to Spencer's. If my clothes are not too wet (i.e. an easier day) I take that opportunity to sleep in the base layer to dry it off. I also often put my fleece vest in my bag (note: I use a synthetic bag). After one night, it's a constant struggle to stay dry, but one you must win to make it fun (and safe).

 

[Frodo]

Tramper Al,

On both of my trips there, we were given an assessment by the Ranger at CP who may or may not be officially trained, but certainly offers great advice due to him spending the better part of the winter there (year after year) and has seen (and knows) when they occur on all of the gullies around Chimney Pond. We also did our own assessment (which I believe is mandatory, regardless of forecast) as we approached the Saddle, and spent quite a bit of time scouting which route we were going to take (there is no trail on the Saddle in the winter, just a head wall).

We also brought probes and shovels (which I take on any trip into potential avalanche territory), but no beacons.

 

[twigeater]

Mad Townie, I was told the web site was updated with the new info.

 

[Bushwacked]

you've asked a good question ... the party I will be leading is very experienced with winter mountaineering gear. However 1 person has not done any technical ice, and it is the technical ice that I would like to avoid. However, she has climbed (and summited) Kilimanjaro, Rainier, Denail, winter High Peaks in the Daks, and winter climbs of Washington in NH - so in my book she passes the experience test.

Then, regular hazards being what they are, it sound like your team is good to go either route. Have fun, good luck w/ permits, etc.

 

[Bushwacked]

9 nights??? next to sherpa?????? in the winter?????with no showers???????
good luck!!!!!!!

That should be a rather, hmmm, how to say, fragrant bunk house

 

[Dr. Dasypodidae]

Chimney Pond in the winter provides one of the most spectacular settings on the planet, IMO, and should not be missed (of course, I am biased, as I have spent almost a month of nights at CP in the winter). The South Basin headwall is one of the finest ice climbing areas in eastern North America.

I concur with previous postings, that Hamlin Ridge is the safest route to Baxter Peak (and you get to bag a second 4000-footer on the way, twice!), albeit via a longer route. If avalanche potential is moderate to high, I believe that Cathedral Ridge is the second safest route to Baxter Peak, but not in icy conditions, as there are steep sections with short run-outs over rock ledges should you slip. If avalanche potential is low (i.e., no new snowfall or wind-drifted snow, especially no new snow sitting on top of an icy layer from previous sun melt or rainfall), the Saddle Trail should be fine.

Although Stinkyfeet and a companion hiked both Baxter and Hamlin via Abol Slide in a day from the base (one of the shortest days of the winter, I recall), I doubt that there are many participants on this board who could duplicate that effort. Moreover, Abol Slide is very dangerous in icy conditions, considerably more so than the Saddle Slide, assuming no avalanche potential.

The keys to winter hiking on steep terrain, short of ice climbs, is knowledge about how to walk with crampons without tripping (i.e. catching points on pants, etc.) and how to self arrest a fall using an ice ax (i.e. avoid impaling onself with the pick, etc.).

I believe that BSP now requires that all winter hikers above treeline wear a climbing helmet (probably a reasonable idea) and that each party carries a climbing rope (I doubt that you will be tested about how to use the climbing rope, but knowing how to do a boot-ice ax belay could be useful).

Perhaps the neatest part of a winter trip to Chimney Pond is using skis and pulling a sled, which is great experience for future expeditions on the big mountains. And, I agree with Frodo, anyone who has summited Denali can certainly handle Katahdin in the winter, assuming the weather conditions allow.

 

[ChrisB]

What's the Rush?

Hi all,

As I read some posts in this thread I was wondering why in the world anyone would rush the Baxter experience by trying to bag the summit in a one-day push. That's crazy!

Getting to the top is actually anti-climatic compared to spending time in Chinmey Pond cirque and environs on an extended multi-day trip.

On a full moon night the Chimney Pond headwall sparkles with thousands of smears of ice reflecting the moonlight as snow devils spin across the surface of the frozen pond.

Sunset paints the Knife Edge and South Summit in aplenglow on crystal clear January afternoons.

On a sunny day the North Basin resembles a canyon in the Tetons with soaring rock walls against cobalt blue sky.

Hamlin ridge stands stark white and inviting against the skyline beckoning a climber upwards.

IMHO - If you are heading to Baxter in winter, take enough time to BE there!

cb

 

[ChrisB]

Right Stinky,

We've all got our own styles!

One of the Baxter trips I hope to do this winter is a climb of Abol Slide with an overnight or two at Abol Campground. I've been up the slide in the summer and think it might make a cool winter climb if snow is firm and ice is minimal.

And you can beat that ski out!

I agree with Mister X!

cb

 

[Nadine]

The one day approach to Baxter Peak via Abol is popular with the local guide service. They get an alpine start, travel by ski as far as possible, summit and come out after dark. Last I knew a trip was around 4 bills.

 

[Cath]

Trip Around Katahdin

"Here I'm singin' happy Birthday
Better think about the wish I make
Just one more candle and a trip around the sun

No you never see it comin'
Always wind up wonderin' where it went
Only time will tell if it was time well spent

Yes I'll make a resolution
That I'll never make another one
Just enjoy this ride on my trip around the sun" ~ JB & MB

Abol Slide on a day in early calendar Winter
Approx 14 hrs, 12 mile ski, 10 mile hike, round trip from Kidney Pond
With 3 like minded companions (well, one anyway, but the other 2 couldn't resist BSP in Winter. They had the Moxie, but no ambition to tag Hamlin).

Incentive; it's the last day you will be that age, and there is CHEESECAKE waiting for you at journey's end (not to mention that the 2nd peak is the last of your NE 4k's in Winter, but what's really important here) "Ah, the power of Cheese"

 

[Dr. Dasypodidae]

More recent one-day winter hut traverses in the Whites notwithstanding, IMHO the one-day winter ascent of Baxter and Hamlin Peaks from Kidney Pond via Abol Slide by Cath and Stinkyfeet remains one of the outstanding achievements in Northeast hiking lore over the past decade. Ah, but the power of birthdays and cheesecake.

 

[Cath]

Outstanding Achievements?

With all due respect,
An outstanding achievement would be "hiking" to Galehead Hut in your wheelchair.