Keeping Crampons Sharp

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Abster

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This is the first year I have been using crampons frequently. I love the terrain they open up, but due to the lack of snow it seems like I am on rocks as much as ice. I am assuming that crampons can be sharpened and would like to know some guidelines on how often or how do I gauge the need. I would really like to avoid realizing that they need to be sharpened when I slide down an icy section with them on :eek:

PS: I do try to use them only when needed as no one wants to hear the sound of crampons on rock!

Thank you! Hanna
 
Thanks for asking this question, I had been wondering too. And thanks Doug for getting the link, it was very informative.

My parents visited for the holidays, and my dad asked to see my crampons. He used to be a carpenter and knows quite a lot about tools. He looked at the points and asked how I sharpened them. Well, I'd only had them for a few weeks so I hadn't even thought about it yet.

He gave me all the same advice about the file as is in the link. One thing he did mention that I didn't see, was about which side to file. Obviously, don't file that wide flat sides, as mentioned. However, on mine, when you look at the points from the side, one comes up in a 90 degree angle, and the other does not. My dad reccomended filing the NOT 90 degree side, so you're always making a neat point. Apparently you'll get a nicer point that way. In looking even closer at my points, they appear to be angled just right to be very conducive to shaprening the non-90 side.

This has been on my mind since I walked all around yesterday on the summit of Mt. Osceola- ON ALL BARE ROCKS! :eek:

They ought be be pretty dull now! :D
 
sleeping bear said:
One thing he did mention that I didn't see, was about which side to file. Obviously, don't file that wide flat sides, as mentioned.
Most crampons are made from sheet metal--if you look only at the point itself, it will be a flat triangle (with the short side attached to the crampon frame). No matter what angle the attachement to the frame, file the thin edges (ie not the wide flat sides) of the point. And as time goes on, the point gets shorter and shorter, but the sheet metal stays full thickness.

One exception to the above: if your front points are horizontal and have a flat (sharp) edge across the front rather than a point, file from the top to thin the sheet metal of the sharp edge.

Doug
 
FWIW, a friend who's done LOTS of high altitude and glacier climbing says you should not sharpen your crampons too sharp. Remember that for most of us (not counting a couple people I've hiked with, and you know who you are! :D ) there's an awful lot of weight being concentrated on the tiny surface area of the crampon points. They will dig in pretty well, and you don't want to fracture the ice with too-sharp points. It's better to have them stick in there really well.
 
Mad Townie said:
FWIW, a friend who's done LOTS of high altitude and glacier climbing says you should not sharpen your crampons too sharp.
If you are just hiking, they needn't be razor sharp. The sharpness of a ball point pen tip should be fine. Less dangerous to legs and clothing and the crampons will wear better. (Deburring the points also helps to protect clothing.)

However, if you are climbing high-angle hard-water ice (frequently found in NE), razor sharp is appropriate, particularly for the front points. They set better with less shattering.

Doug
 
Yeah, I wasn't talking about waterfalls, Doug. (One must consider the source, after all!) We agree.
 
Mad Townie said:
Yeah, I wasn't talking about waterfalls, Doug. (One must consider the source, after all!) We agree.
I have seen hikers who, as far as I could tell, have never sharpened their crampons...

IIRC, they were using an old design made from 1/4 inch square bar stock so the "points" were 1/8 inch radius half-spheres.

Somehow, I think they also avoided the steep spots too...

Doug
 
rust

Hey Matt,

Just wipe them down after each trip. If you forgot to or were too tired & awake to rust, just add a little light weight oil to the rag. Any oil will do, including vegetable, but the light weight ones, like sewing machine oils are best because they are less likely to stain clothing etc. Just hit the areas that need it though and wipe them dry or you'll have some slick crampons & anything else you touch.
Always walk around in your back yard after you sharpen them. You dull the razor tips a little & get to aerate your lawn... :cool:
 
WildPeaks said:
Just wipe them down after each trip. If you forgot to or were too tired & awake to rust, just add a little light weight oil to the rag. Any oil will do, including vegetable
Drying them is worthwhile--I also dry my ice axe and (edged) skis. Anything with steel.

I wouldn't use vegetable oil--while it will prevent rust, it gets gummy, and may attract hungry varments. I'd stick to light machine oil.

Doug
 
A couple of quick questions please. I’ve read both threads, and I’m still a tad confused. If I look at my Grivels, the heel points have a 90 degree and 75 degree (guessing) angle. As Sleeping Bear mentioned, file the 75 degree angle. However, I’m still a little confused as to what you mean by “do not file the flat side”? Both sides appear to be flat. Also, since someone said that I should file in one direct, which direction, towards the point or towards the base? Thanks.
 
MadRiver said:
A couple of quick questions please. I’ve read both threads, and I’m still a tad confused. If I look at my Grivels, the heel points have a 90 degree and 75 degree (guessing) angle. As Sleeping Bear mentioned, file the 75 degree angle. However, I’m still a little confused as to what you mean by “do not file the flat side”? Both sides appear to be flat. Also, since someone said that I should file in one direct, which direction, towards the point or towards the base? Thanks.
Most crampons have vertical points under foot and the front points range from horizontal (ice climbing crampons) to vertical (hiking crampons).

Let us assume that an under-foot point has broken off your crampon. Lay it on the table. Its shape will be an (approximate) isoscles triangle (def: isoscles triangle=a triangle with 2 equal edges) with 2 long equal edges and one short (broken) side. You file the 2 long equal edges (near their common point) to sharpen.

The two "flat" surfaces (parallel to the table top) are NOT filed.

The above applies to the under-foot points. The front points may be sharpened differently depending on their design.

Doug
 
DougPaul said:
Drying them is worthwhile--I also dry my ice axe and (edged) skis. Anything with steel.

I wouldn't use vegetable oil--while it will prevent rust, it gets gummy, and may attract hungry varments. I'd stick to light machine oil.

Doug

If you have animals hanging onto your crampons, then your using waaaaaaaaaaaaay too much oil!
The point was just a very light coating of........ suntan oil, if that's all you had, will remove the rust.
 
WildPeaks said:
If you have animals hanging onto your crampons, then your using waaaaaaaaaaaaay too much oil!
The point was just a very light coating of........ suntan oil, if that's all you had, will remove the rust.
Slurp!
Many animals go by smell. Doesn't take much to smell tasty.

And I'll bet the film of vegetable oil can still get gummy.

WD-40 would probably work too.

Doug
 
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