Leather boot protectant

[Jasonst]

I just bought a new pair of all leather backpacking boots and am curious to know what you all use to protect the leather. Thanks

 

[Kevin Rooney]

Nikwax - both Weatherproofing Wax and Aqueous. If Limmers - they have their own due to a different method of tanning.

 

[Nessmuk]

Nikwax - both Weatherproofing Wax and Aqueous. If Limmers - they have their own due to a different method of tanning.

It depends on if your boots are chrome-tanned or oil-tanned. Limmer grease is generally good for all good leather boots. It's not all that expensive and you can order it online from Limmer. Peter will chastize you for using an all wax sealer such as sno-seal on fine boots. It clogs the pores too much. On the other end of the spectrum, a pure grease such as mink oil may make the leather too soft over time.

 

[the starchild]

nikwax to the max

 

[forestgnome]

Do a search of 'boot grease recommendation'. It's a very informative thread.

I would add to it that I met a nice women on Mt Hedgehog a week ago Saturday who was wearing LL Bean Crestas (which is what I wear the other three seasons) and Stabilicers. She uses the LL Bean Bees Wax stuff and swears by it. I plan on trying it. It was warm and her boots were dry on the outside.

 

[dRitter]

Nikwax, just make sure that you "wet" the leather first. I used it on a dry pair of Vasque boots, it didn't take, and nothing else would afterward.

 

[--M.]

The Dangers of Sno-Seal

I used to use Sno-Seal on my Fabs.

This fall, I visited the Limmer guys to show off my eBay bargains and was shown the difference between Sno-Sealed boots and those treated with their own stuff:

The Sno-Seal boots had wax caked on them and looked surprisingly like my old Fabianos after about twenty years. Then a guy walked in to pick up his resoled Customs, which had been cared-for since the eighties without wax (i.e. with Limmer's grease). They were beautiful.

The bottom line was that wax clogs pores. Seemed pretty clear.

 

[DougPaul]

On the other end of the spectrum, a pure grease such as mink oil may make the leather too soft over time.

Animal oils/greases can also rot.

Doug

 

[Lawn Sale]

I have used Mink oil and SnowSeal for well over 20 years, and still have the same boots today. They're as soft as ever and I wouldn't hesitate to keep using those products.

For my hiking boots, I like a leather paste dye to fill in the crampon and rock gouges, then Huberd's Boot Oil from Oregon.

 

[Trout]

I've used the Sno-Seal & the Bee's wax (LL Bean's) & seem to perfer the Bee's wax now. I even put it (Bee's wax) on my wife's dress winter boots & she seems to be very happy with it's performance & looks. I probably started using the Sno-Seal about 35-40 yrs ago on work boots.

 

[Grumpy]

I get excellent results from Limmer Boot Grease on my Limmer hiking boots, and from Obenauf's Heavy Duty LP (Leather Preservative) on various moccasin shoes and boots from Russell Moccasin.

G.

 

[sierra]

I just bought a pair of Merrill boots, the "Wilderness" model. I owned these years ago with great success. The shop I bought them from suggested the Limmers boot wax so I bought it. Someones above comment about Limmers having a different tanning method now has me concerned. On my first pair of wilderness boots I always used "Biwell" with great success, should I use the Limmers or stick with what I know? You guys seem up on this so Ill listen intently, ty.

 

[Kevin Rooney]

I just bought a pair of Merrill boots, the "Wilderness" model. I owned these years ago with great success. The shop I bought them from suggested the Limmers boot wax so I bought it. Someones above comment about Limmers having a different tanning method now has me concerned. On my first pair of wilderness boots I always used "Biwell" with great success, should I use the Limmers or stick with what I know? You guys seem up on this so Ill listen intently, ty.

sierra -

According to the Merrell site

CLEANING + CONDITIONING

On a regular basis, brush away surface dirt with a soft brush. After extended rugged use, wash with mild soap and warm water. Be sure to rinse all soap off.

CONDITIONING
Recommended treatment depends on construction and materials of boot (please note that most treatments alter the color and appearance of boots).

Top Grain Leather
Biwell®, Boot Guard®, NikWax® Paste Wax, or NikWax® Aqueous.

Nubuck or Split Grain Leather
NikWax® for suede/nubuck.

Fabric/Leather
Treat leather areas in a similar fashion to treating all leather boots. Treat fabric areas with Tectron®, Zepel®, Scotchgard®, or NikWax®

Fabric/Leather.Pigskin Leather
Because Wolverine® Performance™ Leather (pigskin) is treated against water and stains, leather conditioning is not recommended.

DRYING
Open boot fully, remove footbed and laces, and dry at room temperature. Never expose to heat!

So, it looks like Biwell®, Boot Guard®, NikWax® Paste Wax, or NikWax® Aqueous is what you should use. Same as my first post, except adding the Biwell. I used to use Biwell, but personally now think the Nikwax is better and lasts longer on my Raichle's. I believe the Wilderness models are made pretty much the same as always (can't think of the name of the Italian bootmaker who makes them for Merrill) so if you've had good luck with Biwell in the past I don't see any reason to change.