Man falls 1000 feet to his death on Katahdin's Abol Slide.

[alexmtn]

So sad when one's pursuit of what he/she loves turns into a tragic loss for family and friends. A tradeoff I think about often. For the pleasure/fun/satisfaction it's likely to yield, what level of risk is acceptable in the context of those we love?

A friend and I attempted this hike in December, and were turned back near the top of the bypass route by a descending (below the table lands) cloud ceiling and 60-80 mph winds. Knowing that we're planning to have another go at it, all in our circle who learned of the accident have been urging us to reconsider. In the course of the related conversation and associated thinking, I've concluded that if you encounter ice and/or crust that's set to ensure that a slip is going to send you down beyond just the next boulder/ledge or two, ice ax or not, then it's simply not safe to continue without a rope and protection -- turning back is the only logical course. We either keep coming back until conditions are acceptable on the route, or we carry the extra gear.

Absent a technical approach, in those conditions all it takes is one slip. Given this mountain passion we all share, most all of us find ourselves in a just-one-flub setting with some frequency. The distinction to make is: at those times, are we vulnerable for a well-defined, well-considered step or two, or for hundreds of steps over a period of hours? The former entails a lot less risk than the latter.

Alex

 

[Tom Rankin]

Not sure it is still being used but at one point getting into the park in winter required a pretty decent interview and permit process go even get in & I believe you needed a team of four.

I was not overtly interviewed when I went in 2012. The Park Rangers patrol the park on snowmobiles and stop and chat with you. Maybe that is the interview now. I did tell one Ranger that we had 2 WFAs with us, and more than one person who had been in the park before. They did not ask to see our gear, but we had 'everything' short of helmets. We did not ascend the slide, but chose the Saddle approach and descended down Hamlin.

My condolences to the family and friends as well.

 

[peakbagger]

I have friends who went up there 20 years ago, they had to submit quite a bit of info on their background and their first aid training. One of the group was doctor so they were covered. Since it was their first trip they were cleared to visit Chimney Pond but would have to get the go ahead from the Chimney Pond ranger if they wanted to attempt the summit.

I have heard of but never seen the policy that at one point that a group had to name a rescue party in advance of the trip. The park has streamlined winter access in the last few years and I believe they now allow walk in day use.

 

[DougPaul]

I have heard of but never seen the policy that at one point that a group had to name a rescue party in advance of the trip.

IIRC, that policy existed at some point in the 1970's.

Doug

 

[Mike P.]

I have friends who went up there 20 years ago, they had to submit quite a bit of info on their background and their first aid training. One of the group was doctor so they were covered. Since it was their first trip they were cleared to visit Chimney Pond but would have to get the go ahead from the Chimney Pond ranger if they wanted to attempt the summit.

I have heard of but never seen the policy that at one point that a group had to name a rescue party in advance of the trip. The park has streamlined winter access in the last few years and I believe they now allow walk in day use.

I guess this means I'm old......

 

[sierra]

So sad when one's pursuit of what he/she loves turns into a tragic loss for family and friends. A tradeoff I think about often. For the pleasure/fun/satisfaction it's likely to yield, what level of risk is acceptable in the context of those we love?

A friend and I attempted this hike in December, and were turned back near the top of the bypass route by a descending (below the table lands) cloud ceiling and 60-80 mph winds. Knowing that we're planning to have another go at it, all in our circle who learned of the accident have been urging us to reconsider. In the course of the related conversation and associated thinking, I've concluded that if you encounter ice and/or crust that's set to ensure that a slip is going to send you down beyond just the next boulder/ledge or two, ice ax or not, then it's simply not safe to continue without a rope and protection -- turning back is the only logical course. We either keep coming back until conditions are acceptable on the route, or we carry the extra gear.

Absent a technical approach, in those conditions all it takes is one slip. Given this mountain passion we all share, most all of us find ourselves in a just-one-flub setting with some frequency. The distinction to make is: at those times, are we vulnerable for a well-defined, well-considered step or two, or for hundreds of steps over a period of hours? The former entails a lot less risk than the latter.

Alex

A thoughtful post. In my quest to solo the 14ers in CO, I have done a fair amount of snow climbing. The spring in CO has you on many long stretches of steep snow depending on your choice of route. I enjoy this type of climbing over all others and relish long snow climbs. I go alone and frankly have no family or connections out west, so I'm really on my own, as nobody knows where I am, when I'm climbing. That being said, I focus on every little detail every step of the way, there is zero room for complacency. My rule of thumb on routes of this nature is as follows. Number one, I must be able to self belay with one of my tools at all times, if I cannot penetrate the snow with my axe to a depth that will provide a solid self belay, it's a no go. Number two, the temperature has to be in the range that will not only provide the above quality of snow, but also not warm enough to release rock fall at an unacceptable level. Number three, I require a weather window that will allow me to climb the route and reach my descent route safely, I prefer to not descend steep long snow slopes, ridgelines are much better.

As far as access to Baxter. I was denied solo entrance way back in the 90's. I offered to sign any waiver they had, but at that time it was a party of 4 required. I actually did the peak that summer via the Knife edge and have never been back.

 

[DayTrip]

My rule of thumb on routes of this nature is as follows. Number one, I must be able to self belay with one of my tools at all times, if I cannot penetrate the snow with my axe to a depth that will provide a solid self belay, it's a no go. Number two, the temperature has to be in the range that will not only provide the above quality of snow, but also not warm enough to release rock fall at an unacceptable level. Number three, I require a weather window that will allow me to climb the route and reach my descent route safely, I prefer to not descend steep long snow slopes, ridgelines are much better.

That's good advice. Never seen anyone specifically qualify when they will continue or turn around with objective steps like that (although I'm sure many do). Think I'll file that away in the old mental notebook next to "What would happen if I fell right now?"

 

[whcobbs]

What runs through my mind is that an ice axe at the top of Abol slide might well encounter only rock in the first crucial seconds after the slip/fall. So do you rope up, or what?
Walt