Mount Baker via Easton Glacier - July 2007

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arm

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as if anyone cares, here's yet another fascinating trip report

Giggy tricked a pile of hiking friends into flying out west to climb Mount Adams and Mount Baker in Washington State - seemed cooler than hiking northeast peaks during black fly season

Giggy posted a Mount Adams trip report

the fluff below covers the Mount Baker leg of the trip

ten of us intended to climb Adams and Baker, but weather led to our team of ten going for Adams during best weather days, not leaving enough time to go for Baker before most of us flew home

cbcbd, skimom and i grabbed dinner with the crew in Seattle, then headed north and crashed near Sedro Woolley - checked in at the Ranger station the next morning, then drove to Schreibers Meadow Trailhead and backpacked up snow-covered Baker Pass Trail 603

our approach in to Sunrise Camp on Mount Adams' Mazama Glacier Route a few days before required some creative route finding ... our 603 approach also featured creative route finding, where we missed a left turn due to blowdowns, and ended up "discovering" a waterfall (just as we'd planned)

soon we reached Morovitz Meadow, surrounded by incredible views ... most day hikers stop here ... we hiked up Railroad Grade, a moraine leading up towards Easton Glacier and Baker's Black Buttes

hiking up the Railroad Grade was one of the best parts of the trip, walking among many marmots, with views of Baker's glaciers and Buttes making it feel like we were treking through the Alps

we hiked up past High Camp at 5500' until we reached a higher basecamp at 6500' dropping west off Railroad Grade onto a snow covered plateau, sheltered from winds by Buttes, with nearby views of Cascades - a peaceful camp that offered a convenient water source - fresh glacial melt streaming off a steep snow slope

we talked to a few folks who were planning to start around 4AM, then hit the tents under a Full Moon

woke up, cooked breakfast and hit the glacier at 4:20, a fine time for an "alpine start"

the sun rose a short while later, painting clouds and exposing crevasses as we climbed up Easton Glacier - random winds would stir dirty snow on Lincoln Peak, causing it to look like an active volcano

we spotted over a hundred climbers scampering along the Coleman-Deming Glacier Route, happy that we chose the Easton Glacier Route

views from the Summit Crater rim near Sherman Peak were amazing, even with stinky sulfuric clouds spewing up from Steam Vents

from there, we climbed the steep section along the eastern edge of the Roman Wall until we topped out on Baker's summit cone, where winds picked up - walked over to the summit, among dozens of climbers, and checked out Cascade views in all directions

heading down Roman Wall could have been the sketchiest leg of the Baker trip ... steep, with hungry crevasses waiting below ... wish we had pictures from that steep section, but it didn't seem wise holding up the rope team for the sake of getting cool pictures, risking a slip that could send us into a crevasse ... best to keep those visions in our minds

cbcbd came up with a great idea on our way down ... "let's climb down into those large crevasses!" ... our stunned silence and thousand-mile stares were accepted as "sure, Doug, that sounds like fun!", so down we went

after planting snow picket anchors, cbcbd tied in, and skimom belayed him out over the biggest crevasse we could reach ... he scouted over it until the 60 meters paid out, then grudgingly retreated ... we almost expected him to unrope and climb down into the bowels of the Earth

after skimom and i took turns climbing into CrevasseLand, we all headed back to basecamp, snoozed, then packed up and headed down

spotted a mountain goat high on Survey Point's cliffs on our way out

grabbed tasty mexican dinner in Sedro Woolley on our way back to Seattle

posted a few pics in the Baker and Adams/Hood albums here
http://community.webshots.com/user/armtrips

click on "full size" links next to each pic for better pics

Mount Baker averages about 50 feet of snow each year


thanks to Giggy for setting up this trip, and thanks to the team for a fun trip ! great group of fun friends to hang out with :)
 
I had a great time on Baker and am happy that I went back and got to the summit (after bad weather kept me from the summit in '05).

That was some climb! All those crevasses.... so many in all directions!!

Hanging out at basecamp with Rainier on the horizon outside the tent door.

The Roman Wall......

"hey, let's climb into that crevasse"

Good times! You guys are the best!! Thanks for everything !!
 
I invite arm on these trips becuase he gets better pix than I do!

I am real glad you guys got to get on Baker and I really wish I was there with you. All in all - the team put climbers on the summits of 3 cascade peaks in 9 days or so. Major success and we also found time to get a bit drunk on a night or 2 :eek: :D

on a serious note and special recognition - while everyone should be proud of their time out there.
cbcbd was the sole one to get on all 3. This guy is a powerhouse and seems to have a natural mountain sense as well as limitless energy and upbeat attitude.

I can see him doing big things in the future. :)

congrats on an awesome time.
 
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Was that one of your party skinning up? If so, how was the ride down?
 
Arm and Dani... you guys were great company on this one. I could see Dani's fire of determination hiking up to camp as she really wanted this one after the her last trip there :) And I'm really glad for you (and for all) that we had some excellent weather our whole time there.

Arm and I just couldn't go to bed late enough - the view from camp with the moon shinning above and the Buttes to the right framing Puget sound in the distance... amazing.

The marmots were definitively crazy and cute... and were everywhere!

The Baker area was neat and different - with the jagged and snowy peaks of the Northern Cascades, it felt more rugged.

Thanks for keeping me around and driving me around :)

giggy said:
I can see him doing big things in the future. :)
You're so right!! I just came from the can... and well, let's say that I don't think anyone will want to go in there for a while.

AMF said:
Was that one of your party skinning up? If so, how was the ride down?
Nope, a solo skier who started driving from Seattle at 11pm the night before. When the skier came down I think he could've waited a little longer - when he left up top and the middle was windblown hardpack, towards the bottom was probably closer to corn. When we got to the bottom it was corn and when we left it was deep mashed potatoes - ugh.
The ski down looks like it would be fun (nice and steep on the headwall) but interesting - lots of crevasses to lookout for. You could see that a previous skier followed the climber's path up the Easton glacier closely on the way down as to avoid the big ones.

Ok, now some choice pics:

Shot up trailhead sign

Arm and Skimom negotiate a river crossing

Almost at the Railroad grade (dirt ridge that can be seen to the left)

Skimom says hello to the marmots
Furball

Camper with Rainier in the distance

Campsite at 6500ft with the view of the Sound and Olympics. Our tents are on the bottom right

View south over camp with the railroad grade and Rainier on the left

Crevasses in the afternoon glow

VFTT - Views From The Toilet

Taking a break with an unknown mountain in the background

False chimney at Lincoln Butte

Summit Crater (this one MUST be seen in full size)

Hell in crater

Crevasses on the Easton

Summit hump

We couldn't find anyone to take our picture, so a self summit pic of the group :D (you can see the circus reflecting off our glasses)

Seasons in the Abyss

Aerial view of Baker and Shuksan

All the Baker pics start here:
http://good-times.webshots.com/album/559767022VsDlEv?start=216
 
Wow, Baker is one good looking mountain. My friend Tom (who lives in Seattle) was just bragging to me that he and his son are thinking about doing Baker, but they'll decided when they wake up tomorrow. They have the Cascade in their backyard.

Great pictures, you guys are real hard core!
 
Man, I wish I could have stayed out there for a few more days and bagged Baker with you. Looks like you got a great weather window. It was great to be able to climb with all of you. Gotta start planning another great trip for next year!
 
Rock on. Another great report from the other side of the country :) Congrats on the summit. Love your pictures, arm and cbcbd... What's next?
 
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