Mt. Rainier Questions

[AlexTal]

I'm organizing a trip to Mt. Rainier this summer. I really want to do the Kautz route.

Has anyone done this trip before (even better if you've done this route)? If so, did you use a guide service? Which?

What'd you think?

Any advice?

 

[TMax]

A bunch of us from this site went out in 2005. Here's some reports from then. Different route though!

http://www.vftt.org/forums/showthread.php?t=8259&highlight=Rainier

http://www.vftt.org/forums/showthread.php?t=8250&highlight=rainier

 

[Kevin Rooney]

I'm organizing a trip to Mt. Rainier this summer. I really want to do the Kautz route.

Has anyone done this trip before (even better if you've done this route)? If so, did you use a guide service? Which?

What'd you think?

Any advice?

Is your question - has anyone here done Rainier? If so, then yes, there are many. I don't recall anyone here reporting they did it via Kautz route, but perhaps. Most do it via Camp Muir.

As for guide svcs - yes, I used Cascade Alpine (small outfit, don't know if they're still in business). We did it via Emmons/Winthrop/Camp Shurman route, from White Mtn campground. Second time was "self-guided", via Muir/DC.

A couple of friends of mine did it 2 years ago via Muir. At the time, the route via Ingraham was a better choice.

 

[Chugach001]

My lovely wife and I got blown off one February and I would not suggest a winter ascent to anyone. Summer is fun and easy but weather can still be a factor. I made the rim in a whiteout but never to the true summit. Sorry, can't help you with Guides.

 

[Chip]

Paradox and I used IMG for the standard route at the beginning of June. I recommend them highly. They do a Kautz route trip in June and July. Your chances of summitting are greatly increased with a guide.

 

[cbcbd]

Have only done the DC up, but haven't done the Kautz... yet

How many days are you taking for the route?

I'm pretty sure there are only the three guiding organizations allowed to guide on Rainier, these three:
http://www.nps.gov/mora/planyourvisit/mountaineering-guide-services.htm
I have no specific recommendations but I'm sure they are all great services.

Here are a few reports from CascadeClimbers:
http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ub...rue/TR_Mt_Rainier_Kautz_Glacier_7_#Post818229

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ub...rue/TR_Mt_Rainier_Kautz_Glacier_8_#Post588843

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ub...rue/TR_Mt_Rainier_Kautz_Glacier_7_#Post585950

Have fun!

 

[kaseri]

Alpine Ascents comes highly recommended.

 

[Jeff]

AlexTal -
I've done this route.
Made it to 13.9K before bailing due to being in a white out. Fun trip down, even got ripped out of a belay by a human triggered (my partner) snow slide!

No guide service.
We did it in late May, which is a great time to be on the hill. It's a good moderate route, never too hard, but provides some steep sections and navigation challenges. If you go early those steep sections can be good crampon snow..later in the year and you'll be doing an ice climb.

Jeff

 

[AlexTal]

Thanks everyone for the insight.

I was looking into Alpine Ascents. I'm relatively new to the high altitude climbing. I did a 12 day mountaineering course in Alaska with AMS this past summer. They suggested I try the West Buttress this summer, but since I've never been at altitude, I want to get my feet wet with Rainier.

I've also heard good things about IMG.

Looks like I still got some decision making to do!

Thanks again.

 

[Chip]

I've also heard good things about IMG.

Thanks again.

IMG takes care of the food and cooks for you, which is pretty nice. On their Kautz route the client to guide ratio is 2 to 1. We got there 4 days before our trip and did a 2 day crevasse rescue class with them and a day hike to Muir (10k) and back on our own. Both of these added alot to our trip and made summitting easier.