Mt Washington - 12/18

[cbcbd]

Date: 12/18

Trails:Tuckermans,Lawn cutoff, Davis Path, Boot Spur

Miles: Oh geez, I don't know. 8-10?

Mountains:Washington

Special Equipment:Pointy traction devices and these

After spending a foggy Sunday with Giggy, Mtnpa, and Bob playing on the ice at the base of the Tuckerman's headwall I decided to see if the next day things would be clear and maybe try for something on Monday. It was hiking or skiing...and I'd rather wait for more snow for the latter.

Well, it was looking good, so headed out from Pinkham at 7:45am. Tux trail started dry and then halfway up it was an icy mess

Got to Hojos at 8:55 and caught the first view of the headwall. Looking good! Headed up catching the views and probably got to the base around between 9:30-9:45.

I slipped sideways on the trail before the headwall and fell on my right thumb, bending it back pretty far and spraining it bad - at least I hoped it was only a sprain. Anyway, that had me worried and could mean that I'd have to turn back - thankfully it didn't come to that.

Picked a line and started making myself up, enjoying the ice bulges and pillars.

Topped out at around 10:35 and, psyched, headed for Wash

Met these guys from PA on the summit cone who had done Marcy, Mansfield, and now Washington in about 4 days - nuts!

Anyway, got to the summit around 12, I think.

Started heading down and followed the Lawn Cutoff to Davis path, and enjoyed nice views South.

By this time in the day the perma-fog had lifted off and most of the way down Boot Spur I enjoyed good views of Washington, Tuckermans , Huntington , and poor poor Wildcat.

That ravine was awesome, I shall return before it fills up.

Adieu, mountains

And of course, I had to outdo myself, and so had a triple whopper with cheese on the way out - Now that was the toughest challenge of the day!

-Doug

 

[blacklab2020]

Sweet!

Excellent trip you had!

Glad you had great views and the climb up tuckermans looked like a blast in great early conditions (hard to get).

I just hope some of that snow up high will stick around for a while.

Is that a self portrait at the end ("Adieu, Mountains")?

 

[Mad Townie]

Doug, fine report, fine pix and what a fine day! Seeing your line up Tucks, no wonder you needed all the gear in your first two photos.

 

[marty]

Awesome trip report and pix. Thanks for sharing!
Marty

 

[mtnmama]

Snow & Ice

Doug...wow you actually could climb! How cool it that!
Nice report.
Let it snow ...let it snow... let it snow.

 

[percious]

Exceptional report. The pics are very informative, you may consider posting them over on www.neice.com

cheers.
-percious

 

[cbcbd]

Glad you had great views and the climb up tuckermans looked like a blast in great early conditions (hard to get).

I just hope some of that snow up high will stick around for a while.

Is that a self portrait at the end ("Adieu, Mountains")?

Yeah, the low snow "problem" is actually good for some things like ice climbing, especially in the ravines - one most important thing is that it keeps the avalanche danger down for now. Looking at an
accident report from tuckermans on 11/29/2002 you can see how much more filled it was then and the very serious outcome.

It rained briefly on Sunday and was a little "warm", so the snow that I encountered on the ravine was powder topped off by a nice crust - so basically, watch out after the next serious snowfall. Yep, like you said, I lucked out and had great conditions.

And yep, that's me in the pic showing my best side

Exceptional report. The pics are very informative, you may consider posting them over on www.neice.com

cheers.
-percious

Chris, I'm way ahead of you
Man, when are you gonna join us? I know you're also hankering for some ice time.

 

[DougPaul]

Nice hike/climb.

How technical was the ice and snow on the headwall? Or were you able to route yourself around the technical bits?

Doug
ex-ice climber

 

[cbcbd]

Doug,
I basically picked a line that had some technical stuff and was within my comfort zone for soloing. I'm still kind of new to ice climbing so my judgement of grades is still developing.

Here is a better pic with the line

I started out on the big flow left of the Open Book, which is where we were on Sunday - 2+? It's been getting plenty of traffic recently so it was pretty beat out. There was a party of 3 just starting out on the Open Book - Straight up there didn't look too exciting, above that line there was tons of snow I'd have to go through that I just didn't want to mess with, and I didn't want to climb above them and rocket ice/snow down on them. Too far left on the headwall it was more technical with tons of 3 and 4s, so I wasn't too keen on soloing that.
I traversed way left to a line that looked like there was more ice to link to the top. The hardest move of the day was probably a 3 on the first big bulge up after the traverse and another bulge further up. Moving up from there it was 2 and 2+ for a while until I got to some more snow to cross. Another 2+ or 3 move up the bulge, then a little left and up to the ice and now I was facing the big pillar at the top. That section was the sketchiest since there was a good section of snow to cross, I could hear the water trickling all around, heard a "Thunk" from somewhere while deciding what to do, and it was obviously a no-fall situation. I found some section of the snow that had ice underneath and moved slowly on that until I could get my tools on some of the ice to the right of the pillar, on the left of the small gully. From there on it was just trying to get good sticks and try to get my feet out of the mush underneath asap before anything broke.

Now, I'd like to go back there roped and go for a harder line more to the left of the headwall - lots of good looking ice there and everywhere! Why did I come back to work?

 

[DougPaul]

Doug,
I basically picked a line that had some technical stuff and was within my comfort zone for soloing.

Thanks.

From your pics, it looked like one could certainly find a hardish--say WI 3 or 4 (or maybe harder) route up the pillars. On the other hand, with a clever bit of routefinding, one might have been able to make it much easier.

Actually, from the "better pic of the line", it looks like there might be an easier route off to the right of the one that you took. But it sounds like you had fun and got back safely. At least you didn't have to dodge skiers and boarders...

Nice climb.

Doug

 

[giggy]

nice report doug! - in typical fashion, the day I leave - the weather improves. 2 days I trudged into tucks and didn't get much higher than the base of the headwall - I heard the open book which we did on sunday is a grade 3 - not sure, maybe it was a 2+. Maybe someone else will chime in. The ice was awesome and butter and pretty easy actually.

oh well, sunday was ok too.

 

[giggy]

Doug...wow you actually could climb! How cool it that!
Nice report.
Let it snow ...let it snow... let it snow.

and we didn't kill your husband on sunday - he did great for his first time out. I belayed him and was waiting for the rope to come taught (at least one slip) - it never did!

 

[una_dogger]

Nicely put

Excellent report!

I'm new to this high mountain -in-winter stuff so I found your pictures extremely informative!!!

But I have to ask, what were the smiley face tennis balls for???

 

[cbcbd]

Doug...wow you actually could climb! How cool it that!
Nice report.
Let it snow ...let it snow... let it snow.

Ah, yes, of course... mtnpa, mtnmama... I see the connection now yep, Mike did great on the ice this weekend, it was nice meeting him. hopefully that'll get him hooked for more.

From your pics, it looked like one could certainly find a hardish--say WI 3 or 4 (or maybe harder) route up the pillars. On the other hand, with a clever bit of routefinding, one might have been able to make it much easier.

Actually, from the "better pic of the line", it looks like there might be an easier route off to the right of the one that you took. But it sounds like you had fun and got back safely. At least you didn't have to dodge skiers and boarders...

There is the easy way and the hard way... easy way would be... too easy
...but yes, one could go either way.
So, Mr. ex-ice climber, are you coming next time?

nice report doug! - in typical fashion, the day I leave - the weather improves. 2 days I trudged into tucks and didn't get much higher than the base of the headwall - I heard the open book which we did on sunday is a grade 3 - not sure, maybe it was a 2+. Maybe someone else will chime in. The ice was awesome and butter and pretty easy actually.

oh well, sunday was ok too.

Guy, it's all good. I reckon the mountain just likes to keep the good weather for the locals, ya know...
This was just the iceing on the cake. Don't worry, you'll come back from Ireland and have forgotten all about the bad weather... and other events you'd raise a glass to.

I'm new to this high mountain -in-winter stuff so I found your pictures extremely informative!!!

But I have to ask, what were the smiley face tennis balls for???

Thanks, didn't really mean for them to be informative... just pretty
But hey, the more uses they serve, the better.

As for the tennis balls... umm... errr... I throw them up at the slope and see which way they roll down so I can figure out the fall line... good?

But they also have other uses

 

[DougPaul]

So, Mr. ex-ice climber, are you coming next time?

What? You mean dig out my antiquated^H^H^H^H^H classic tools?

Or my antiquated and out-of-shape bod? And my out-of-shape head...

Doug

 

[cbcbd]

We'll do this: I'll let you borrow my Quarks and G14 Crampomatics, and I'll use your nailed boots and 5' alpenstock.

 

[DougPaul]

We'll do this: I'll let you borrow my Quarks and G14 Crampomatics, and I'll use your nailed boots and 5' alpenstock.

Thanks, but I'm not that old...

I have Chouinard rigid crampons, 2 Chouinard Zero (epoxy handle) North Wall Hammers, and a metal (model?) ice hammer. (I prefer natural swing tools over Terrordactyl-style pecking.) Also a Chouinard 70cm mountaineering axe (epoxy handle). Managed to follow WI5, lead WI4, and solo WI3, and snowclimb with them. The weak point isn't my tools--its me.

Doug

 

[cbcbd]

Thanks, but I'm not that old...

I have Chouinard rigid crampons, 2 Chouinard Zero (epoxy handle) North Wall Hammers, and a metal (model?) ice hammer. (I prefer natural swing tools over Terrordactyl-style pecking.) Also a Chouinard 70cm mountaineering axe (epoxy handle). Managed to follow WI5, lead WI4, and solo WI3, and snowclimb with them. The weak point isn't my tools--its me.

Doug

I know I know, just messing...

That is quite a classic collection... very rare now. People would pay good money for those now -I know I probably would!

 

[DougPaul]

I know I know, just messing...

Oh, I figgured as much...
Nice to see that some others know a bit of history.

That is quite a classic collection... very rare now. People would pay good money for those now -I know I probably would!

Yep, they are fine tools--good swing, nice balance, low vibration, they stick well. If not classic, near classic.

Rick Wilcox had/has a wood handle Zero on display at IME.

Doug

 

[mtnpa]

Good to have met you Doug. Glad you got better weather Monday. Thanks for the advice and the patience. Climbing certainly requires a higher level of concentration. Great adrenaline rush too. See you on the trails.