Mt Washington... again :D 1/28

[cbcbd]

Also depends--some years its a pure snow climb. When I went up there in 1980(?), the ice bulge was most of the width of the gully. It could have been about 50 deg, don't remember accurately.

Last spring it was a neve climb when I was on it. This time the bulge had a dusting of snow and some thick ice underneath.

That avy rather scared me. You were in a narrow gully--enough could have collected to knock you off. (Injuries from hitting the rocks below are not uncommon.)

You're telling me! I am glad I was not too far away from the fracture and that my feet were "bomber" (as much as they could be) and one of my tools was planted nicely on the ice underneath the snow(piolet traction). I just froze in my stance and it slowly collected in front of me, or went around.

Wouldn't take much wind to have it collect deeper in spots. And the snow was fresh (most avys happen during or within 24hrs of the snowfall).

Where I was was already maybe past 3/4 towards the top of the ravine. Not too many deep spots up there but I found many lower in the gully. After the slab I took off towards the right, where it was more rocks and firm shallow neve on top of sometimes ice - harder to manage with the not so thick ice at times (with the tools), but I didn't want to walk over the resting slabs above me.

The guides may have known that conditions in Pinnacle would be different. The gullies' exposure to the wind is certainly different. (There is also a big slope above Pinnacle which could potentially avalanche, but I'm not sure if there is enough snow to cover the rocks up there yet.) I know that Odell (the next gully to the left) has avalanched at times.

Guides had headed up the day before into the ravine (from looking at the register) - I don't remember now which gullies. I didn't really check out the Pinnacle topout after I topped out. But I know the slope you're talking about. No one was on Odell's when I was there. Another climber headed solo to Damnation (NEI 3) that day.

I thought about them--the sluff/avy might have been moving pretty fast by the time it got down to them... Good thing they bailed. Following another party in a narrow gully has its hazzards.

It travelled quite far (you can see where my tracks are still visible or obliterated by the sluff) . If they kept following my path it would've hit them pretty fast unless they were right on my track. Even though we weren't climbing together, you still shouldn't have more than one person in an avalanche path... anyway, glad they weren't behind me.

Doug

 

[DougPaul]

Where I was was already maybe past 3/4 towards the top of the ravine. Not too many deep spots up there but I found many lower in the gully. After the slab I took off towards the right, where it was more rocks and firm shallow neve on top of sometimes ice - harder to manage with the not so thick ice at times (with the tools), but I didn't want to walk over the resting slabs above me.

In private discussion of this avy with someone else, I theorized that going right would probably be the best place to go. IIRC, the gully fills in in a way that a slide is most likely to collect close to the wall on the left.

When I was there in 1980, someone reported loose ice as I neared the ice bulge. I traversed right to get out of the probable line of fall. Also psyched out and retreated. (It was within my climbing ability, but I was a bit new to leading, particularly in an alpine environment.)

Guides had headed up the day before into the ravine (from looking at the register) - I don't remember now which gullies. I didn't really check out the Pinnacle topout after I topped out. But I know the slope you're talking about. No one was on Odell's when I was there. Another climber headed solo to Damnation (NEI 3) that day.

It sounds like the snow slabs were from that night's fall so they probably wouldn't have been there the day before. But the guides would have known what lay underneath and might be better at predicting the accumulations than us weekenders.

Doug

 

[timmus]

Now, the scary part... some ways up from the bulge I place my right tool in the snow and make a fracture line in the snow that goes all the way to the right side of the gully
I start to move slowly up past it and about 10' up from me another fracture line forms and the whole face starts moving down in front of me. My heart stops for a second, but thankfully the new snow wasn't too deep (~3") and the sluff just piles onto my chest or past me down the gully. Had me kind of nervous there, but wow, what a view!

Continued heading up more cautiously now towards the right side... avoiding the other fracture lines and mini slabs still intact. Passed the bomber anchor and exited off a chute to the left that gave some interesting climbing.

Topped out between 1-1:30... took a break, took crampons off, put axes away, ate, drank, enjoyed the views... and pondered if I should just call it a day, head back down Lion's or head to the summit. The snow on the cone wasn't too much and I didn't feel motivated to prep up to ski any of it... plus, now time wasn't on my side if I wanted to summit.

So, I decided to head for the summit - it was such a gorgeous day... I couldn't pass it up... but fast, so I could be on my skis on the Sherburne at least before 5pm.

Headed up towards Nelson Crag and soon had the summit in view.

This TR (and pics) is so great, what are you doing man, trying to have MORE people get killed in the WMNF ??

Now all I want is to go up central gully. Any trip planned soon ?

 

[RGF1]

NIice TR and Photos . It one of the few times I've seen In my opion any way ,central gully look more dangerous than Pinical gully at least from the photos .
Central gully is my favorite way up Washington , as it usually avoids the crowded loin head route where you get stuck waiting for a gruop to get past a steep section.




As for me I would not have beeen in there after a snowfall and wind the will blow sloug inot the gully and that fracture line must have been scary ihave seen them in Co and looked for the saftest and fast way out of the area with Avy danger .

 

[David Metsky]

Yes, I definitely wouldn't have gone up there without being able to assess the avy danger myself, or was traveling with someone who did. That is far beyond my level of comfort. All I know is that I don't know enough to assess avy danger. I have read that one of the factors in many avy incidents is folks seeing other folks in an area and assuming that things are safe.

Anyways, I'm glad you had a great trip and the trip report is amazing, if somewhat panic inducing.

-dave-

 

[cbcbd]

In private discussion of this avy with someone else, I theorized that going right would probably be the best place to go. IIRC, the gully fills in in a way that a slide is most likely to collect close to the wall on the left.

It sounds like the snow slabs were from that night's fall so they probably wouldn't have been there the day before.

Looking at just a pic of the gully you can see that it does slant to the left. The right side is definitively rockier and leaner.

I assumed the snow slabs were from the previous night since seeing the report from Sat in the pack room the night before.
Here is the avy report from Sat
And the avy report from Sunday


Sunday: "Huntington Ravine will have Moderate avalanche danger today. Natural avalanches are unlikely and human triggered avalanches are possible. Unstable slabs are possible in steep terrain. Use caution in steeper terrain."

Which is exactly what happened and since the snow stopped early morning it never went into high Moderate. Next time I'm heading in with a clinometer... I'm curious about the differing steepness in the gully, plus it's a great avy assessment tool to have.

This TR (and pics) is so great, what are you doing man, trying to have MORE people get killed in the WMNF ??

Now all I want is to go up central gully. Any trip planned soon ?

Oh, I'm evil, just get to really know me and you'll see the fire behind my eyes... so yes... follow me

 

[DougPaul]

Sunday: "Huntington Ravine will have Moderate avalanche danger today. Natural avalanches are unlikely and human triggered avalanches are possible. Unstable slabs are possible in steep terrain. Use caution in steeper terrain."

Which is exactly what happened and since the snow stopped early morning it never went into high Moderate.

Pretty good bit of forecasting--all they missed was the name of the trigger...

Doug

 

[cbcbd]

Pretty good bit of forecasting--all they missed was the name of the trigger...

I like to think of it as me doing a favor for climbers who were there the next day

 

[Woody]

Hey Doug,

That was an interesting trip report. Thanks for sharing it with us.

I enjoyed climbing with you, Giggy and Jeff yesterday. We'll have to share a rope again some time.

Woody