Newfoundland

[Neil]

My wife and I are thinking of going to Newfoundland this summer (either that or doing part of the Long Trail in VT) and I've read some threads here that refer to the East Coast Trail and the Long Range /North Rim trails.

Has anybody done those hikes (or something else) over the past few years?

 

[rhihn]

I may or may not have mentioned this to you once. I did the Long Range traverse in Gros Morne NP, though quite a few years ago. Essentially it was a 3 1/2 day bushwhack of c. 22 miles or so. Started with a commercial boat ride of Western Brook Pond. We were let off at the far end, and the rest of the day was spent climbing out of the fjord. From there it was all bushwhack to the Ferry Gulch trail, where we climbed up Gros Morne Mt., and then out to our spotted car. Bugs, mud, fog, and "tuckamore" (short balsam and fir that grows very thick) were the major obstacles. A true fantasy land of mountainous terrain, bogs, forests, streams, water falls, moose, caribou herds, and bear.

The ranger gave everyone a "grilling" checked our gear, wrote down colors (in case of a search), and we had to watch a short film. I think they now require each group to carry an electronic device for rescue. I think they said they give you 5 days before they start to worry about you.

I'm sure others on the forum have been there more recently than I.

I haven't done the North Rim, but I think it's a shorter trek. Someone I know did it a year or two ago, and I could put her in touch with you.

Lots of other hiking in and outside of GMNP as well, and I'm told that L'Anse aux Meadows is worth a side trip, if you have the time (we didn't).

 

[dug]

I, remarkably, didn't do anything in Gros Morne when we were there. The one day I had allotted was crappy. If you do have some time, as was mentioned, there are a lot of other areas that are worth it. Green Gardens was magnificent, and also Burnt Cape was a beautiful.

So, if you have some time and want to kill a few days outside the good spots (Long Trail/Gros Morne) there are options. I can give more detail if you are interested in those.

 

[cushetunk]

Wait, you are choosing between the Long Trail in Vermont, and Newfoundland?

 

[Neil]

Wait, you are choosing between the Long Trail in Vermont, and Newfoundland?

Actually, the Long Trail was my suggestion to my wife and she was kind of lukewarm about the idea. Then yesterday she came up with Nfld.

Being a Canadian I think it's time maybe I go there.

 

[Stan]

Here's a link that'll whet your appetite for Newfoundland Hiking. I've only been there once many years ago but it wasn't principally a hiking trip. I remember it as having a considerable Arctic feel though it is closer in latitude to northern New England than the Arctic Circle and treeline itself. A beautiful scenery when you can see it.

http://www.iatnl.ca/

I do recall a prospective hazard not found further south. While hiking across a tundra like plain near Argentia, I would occasionally poke my hiking stick into these omnipresent mudpools. It met little resistence and sunk as deep as I would push it, exerting only the slightest of pressure. I quickly concluded that I did not want to step into one of these mudholes.

 

[rhihn]

Another link with info on the Long Range traverse (mentioned in my post above), as well as the North Rim:

http://www.pc.gc.ca/pn-np/nl/grosmorne/activ/activ2e.aspx

 

[Dr. Dasypodidae]

Also, check out L'Anse Meadows at the north end, where the Norse hunkered down for 30+ years; usually great views of grounded ice bergs that floated here from Jakobshavn Glacier in West Greenland.

 

[Stuart]

Neil,
Tuckamor trips in Canada offers a guided backpacking trip in the Gros Morne National Park in Newfoundland. They have a description of the trip which might be helpful for your planning. I've been told it rains alot during the summer, so you may want to check the rainfall stats before choosing a date!

 

[dentonfabrics]

Neil,

Gros Morne is spectacular. We were there in Aug 2001 but I doubt much has changed since then - things in Newfoundland never change.

The highlight hike of the trip was Green Gardens. 11 miles of rolling hills and ladders along the western coast. It's one of the most beautiful hikes I've ever taken. The Tablelands is a good take, as is Western Brook Fjord.

Other things: I was told that at the time, Newfoundland had the highest density of moose/sq mile in the world. They were everywhere. Also, the people there are incredibly nice but the food was rediculously bad. They deep-fry everything.

All things considered, Newfoundland is a very strange place but in a good way. I cant wait to get back there. For a sample of Newfie culture, I recommend reading "The Iambics of Newfoundland" by Robert Finch before you go. Enjoy your trip!

 

[dug]

Also, the people there are incredibly nice but the food was rediculously bad. They deep-fry everything.

I will second these two points. The people were amazing. I had a slow leak in a tire, and went to fill it up. I asked where to put in the quarters. I got this blank stare "why would we charge for air?"

As for the food, do not underestimate how bad it is. I was warned by someone who went years ago. When I went ('02) I saw there were Wal-Marts here and there, and figured it had to have been better. I was so wrong....everything is deep fried.