"Old School" Winter 4K Routes

[DayTrip]

Been kinda stagnating on hiking ideas in the Whites of late so I thought it might be interesting to do some of the "old" classic or traditional routes to the 4k summits that were much harder in years past due to road access, etc. The obvious one would be routes to Jefferson and Monroe before the plowing of Base Station Rd. I didn't start hiking on a serious basis until MAY 2012 so I really have no idea what some of the previous hurdles to summiting 4ks there were, if any.

Were there other peaks that were much harder then versus now for logistical reasons like lack of plowing, previously non existent trails or whatever? Definitely adding Jefferson to the list via Lowes' Path > Randolph Path > Gulfside > Jefferson Loop. Will likely add Monroe as well but was unclear on the prior route. Did people go up Tuckermans > Lion Head and cut across the lawn va Tuckerman's Crossover? Boott Spur?

Any hike ideas based on this criteria would be appreciated. My knowledge of the area's history is very limited. Thanks in advance.

 

[maineguy]

The Hancocks before the Kanc was completed.

 

[sierra]

Been kinda stagnating on hiking ideas in the Whites of late so I thought it might be interesting to do some of the "old" classic or traditional routes to the 4k summits that were much harder in years past due to road access, etc. The obvious one would be routes to Jefferson and Monroe before the plowing of Base Station Rd. I didn't start hiking on a serious basis until MAY 2012 so I really have no idea what some of the previous hurdles to summiting 4ks there were, if any.

Were there other peaks that were much harder then versus now for logistical reasons like lack of plowing, previously non existent trails or whatever? Definitely adding Jefferson to the list via Lowes' Path > Randolph Path > Gulfside > Jefferson Loop. Will likely add Monroe as well but was unclear on the prior route. Did people go up Tuckermans > Lion Head and cut across the lawn va Tuckerman's Crossover? Boott Spur?

Any hike ideas based on this criteria would be appreciated. My knowledge of the area's history is very limited. Thanks in advance.

I was on the 4k's in the early 80's for winter ascents. It was quite different in a few ways. Number one, you broke trail a lot, I mean almost every hike. The Castellated ridge took me three tries, almost impossible to break out solo with 2 ft. plus of snow. Jefferson via Lowes path, you need a good weather window, lots of exposure. Monroe from IKE, tough hike if you break it from Pierce which I usually did, but that was my route of choice. The second big difference was that you might not see anyone else. Many hikes I started alone and ended alone. Oh and if you really want to get the "feel" for hiking "old school", leave those fancy snowshoes at home. I did all the above routes with wooden snowshoes and no teeth at all under them. When I got my Sherpas after about 3 or 4 winters, I felt like I was cheating. Oh and the third thing which is really interesting, everyone you met was like meeting someone from VFTT. No social media warriors, no tourons, no just stopped off on the way by and lets hike people, just pure backcountry enthusiast that would help you, share with you and be friends with you no questions asked. I had to quit every hiking group online because of the fights and arguments I kept getting in. Back then, I would run into the same guys off and on for years and it was like seeing a long lost friend, that I miss the most.

 

[DayTrip]

The Hancocks before the Kanc was completed.

That may be going back a bit too far. I traded in my horse drawn carriage awhile back....

 

[DayTrip]

I was on the 4k's in the early 80's for winter ascents. It was quite different in a few ways. Number one, you broke trail a lot, I mean almost every hike. The Castellated ridge took me three tries, almost impossible to break out solo with 2 ft. plus of snow. Jefferson via Lowes path, you need a good weather window, lots of exposure. Monroe from IKE, tough hike if you break it from Pierce which I usually did, but that was my route of choice. The second big difference was that you might not see anyone else. Many hikes I started alone and ended alone. Oh and if you really want to get the "feel" for hiking "old school", leave those fancy snowshoes at home. I did all the above routes with wooden snowshoes and no teeth at all under them. When I got my Sherpas after about 3 or 4 winters, I felt like I was cheating. Oh and the third thing which is really interesting, everyone you met was like meeting someone from VFTT. No social media warriors, no tourons, no just stopped off on the way by and lets hike people, just pure backcountry enthusiast that would help you, share with you and be friends with you no questions asked. I had to quit every hiking group online because of the fights and arguments I kept getting in. Back then, I would run into the same guys off and on for years and it was like seeing a long lost friend, that I miss the most.

Yah I know a lot will be different, i.e. the breaking trail, volume of people, etc. I know I can't recreate the feel of the era. Just thought it would be interesting to retrace the routes and up the degree of difficulty/sense of adventure versus taking the short, microspike superhighway routes most people use just to get a check mark on the list. I almost always take the alternate route to peaks.

Monroe via the Crawford Path from Pierce and Eisenhower is definitely a consideration. I love that stretch of trail. It's among my favorites in the Whites, especially the stretch from Edmands Path to Monroe. Doing the Castles in Winter is also high on the bucket list but probably beyond the scope of my current conditioning.

 

[dug]

Owl's Head most comes to mind.

The Twins, Garfield, Galehead likely have become easier as many shortcuts have been found vs. long walks on closed access roads to trail heads.

 

[DayTrip]

Owl's Head most comes to mind.

The Twins, Garfield, Galehead likely have become easier as many shortcuts have been found vs. long walks on closed access roads to trail heads.

True. The more I think about this the more I'm thinking I'm going to figure out what the first year the 4000 footer list came out (and if someone already knows by all means spill the beans and save me some research ) and then figure out what the route was for that year. I've already done Garfield and Galehead via the road walk so I guess I can cross that off the list. When I did the Twins for my Winter list it was before the road access controversy so that may be one to revisit....

EDIT: When you say Owl's Head I presume this was pre-Black Pond bushwhack? Did people go the official trail route before? Seems like it would have always made sense to bushwhack up and skip the river crossings. Are those ever passable in Winter?

 

[bikehikeskifish]

Twins from Beaver Brook Ski Area isn't too bad. It's longer, of course, and there is an out-and-back to North Twin, but I've resorted to this route when solo.

Tim

 

[dug]

True. The more I think about this the more I'm thinking I'm going to figure out what the first year the 4000 footer list came out (and if someone already knows by all means spill the beans and save me some research ) and then figure out what the route was for that year. I've already done Garfield and Galehead via the road walk so I guess I can cross that off the list. When I did the Twins for my Winter list it was before the road access controversy so that may be one to revisit....

EDIT: When you say Owl's Head I presume this was pre-Black Pond bushwhack? Did people go the official trail route before? Seems like it would have always made sense to bushwhack up and skip the river crossings. Are those ever passable in Winter?

The Brutus and Black Pond bushwacks are relatively "recent"; maybe within the last 20 years I believe. Lincoln Brook Trail wasn't very commonly travelled and used to be hard to follow; nearly impossible past the slide. As with many trails, it was much less travelled 30 years ago so a winter bag of Owl's Head was rare, and a real chore I would imagine. I've done it more recently in the winter and didn't use either of the bushwack routes, but also more foot traffic on the "trailed" routes I'm sure made it much easier (as Sierra mentioned, that's the case with all peaks). As equipment has improved, so has finding more direct routes. 40 years ago, personally, I couldn't imagine doing a bushwack route with the equipment I had then. I have read of others doing Owl's Head in from north, or from the east, as it's reportedly more open. Kudos to them, not something I could've done!

I think the "List" came out sometime in the mid-50's. My first AMC Guide was dated 1972 and there has been some changes in the trails since, but not all fit what you are looking for.

 

[maineguy]

The Club was established in 1957. The Kanc was completed in 1959...so have fun with the Hancocks

In 1957, these peaks were considered "trailless": Owls Head, both Hancocks, and West Bond.

Source: December 1957 issue of Appalachia.

 

[srhigham]

A definitive way to determine this would be to compare the routes and maps in the 1955 or 1960 AMC WMG to today's.

 

[JoshandBaron]

True. The more I think about this the more I'm thinking I'm going to figure out what the first year the 4000 footer list came out (and if someone already knows by all means spill the beans and save me some research ) and then figure out what the route was for that year.

Cabot, Waumbek, Tom, Zealand, Owl’s Head, West Bond and the Hancocks were trailless.

 

[sierra]

True. The more I think about this the more I'm thinking I'm going to figure out what the first year the 4000 footer list came out (and if someone already knows by all means spill the beans and save me some research ) and then figure out what the route was for that year. I've already done Garfield and Galehead via the road walk so I guess I can cross that off the list. When I did the Twins for my Winter list it was before the road access controversy so that may be one to revisit....

EDIT: When you say Owl's Head I presume this was pre-Black Pond bushwhack? Did people go the official trail route before? Seems like it would have always made sense to bushwhack up and skip the river crossings. Are those ever passable in Winter?

I've never done the bushwhacks. I crossed the rivers every time, they were either bridged, frozen over or you turned around.

 

[peakbagger]

In the late eighties and early 90s when I was active on the winter lists, the number one biggest change is pretty radical, little or no Internet. Yes Rec. backcountry was there and hadnt fully descended into flame wars but condition reports were slim to none. At best we would look at the AMC Outdoors and look at the trip calendar and figure out where AMC groups had headed. Of course, no guarantees they did not cancel. So turn off the Internet and depend on the NWS weather forecast. You would need to call Pinkham or stop by to read the summit weather report. On occasion for scout trips I would just call the observers a the summit (the number of the summit was in the local phone book and the observers were usually eager for an excuse to break up a shift.

Next plan on using bigger snowshoes as you were going to break trail unless you went a day after an AMC group or a popular weekend

AMC and other groups did the double bushwhack to Isolation (my error filled description is on Mohameds 4K site). The secodn half seems to be far less popular these day replaced by one farther north that follows a drainage one valley north.

Plan on base camping more. Carrigan was frequently basecamped, hike in on Friday night with a pulk, camp then break trail and climb the mountain then head out after the hike. Since there was now a trail down the road and if you did it right use the pulk to sled down. Hancock's were also popular for basecamp as breaking trail up North Hancock could be all day effort if it was not broken. It was 2 steps forward one step back and frequently daylight was gone by the time a crew hit the summit South Hancock would be another day. The former shelter on Rocky Branch got used a lot for Isolation

North and South Twin were tough just due to the long approach even with the approach from Little River road. Both Galeriver trail and North Twin trail are north slope and they would fill in deep with powder snow. combine that with a steep grade and they could wear out a crew.

The Bonds were a frequent basecamp. Hike in, basecamp near FBT then early AM hike up Bondcliff then over to Bond, West Bond and then bushwhack down off the summit to Hellgate then back to the base camp. Camp overnight and head out the next day. Mohammeds epic adventure on this route sort of killed it for most as an option. Folks also did RT 302 to Lincoln with a night at Zealand and a nigth at Guyot. Or break things up and do Bondcliff as an out and back, then do an out and back to Bond and West Bond from Zealand.

Another thing is plan on being a weekend warrior. The usage was lower and trails got broken out later after a storm especially during the week. . If it snowed Sunday night it may be Friday, unless it was school vacation week, before the hard 4Ks were broek out.

The other factor is weather, when I moved u in 1987 winter reliably started earlier and ended later. Sure there were a few odd years where barebooting the summits could be done until January but it was more likely that by Dec 21, folks were breaking trails.

Most Owl approaches were via the trails, BPB seems to have gotten popular with the internet and reinforced by the adoption of effective GPS units (My top of the line 2nd generation portable GPS was pretty useless for any sort of canopy and sure didnt have map capability). My first Owl approach was from the SE side to the mountain starting near Hellgate then heading up a valley to the bump north of the actual Owl Head cliff. I got to see what I think was the first recognized summit on that trip before making it to the second summit.

Speaking of GPS, navigation was tough especially near or above treeline. Without broken tracks it was easy to get off trail and follow a natural feature. I remember spending a couple of hours trying to find the summit of North Twin as the trail was filled in to above the trees. Lot more spruce traps and they were deep.

 

[Lost Dad]

That may be going back a bit too far. I traded in my horse drawn carriage awhile back....

There was a time when the Kanc was not plowed in winter. Seems that the first year that the Kanc was plowed was 1969.

 

[DayTrip]

The Club was established in 1957. The Kanc was completed in 1959...so have fun with the Hancocks

In 1957, these peaks were considered "trailless": Owls Head, both Hancocks, and West Bond.

Source: December 1957 issue of Appalachia.

WOW. I had no idea the Kanc was that recent of a road. I get your Hancocks reference now. That would be a hell of a hike!

 

[DayTrip]

Twins from Beaver Brook Ski Area isn't too bad. It's longer, of course, and there is an out-and-back to North Twin, but I've resorted to this route when solo.

Tim

But this is a new option correct? I'm looking at this more from a historic perspective than a "best way".

 

[DayTrip]

Lot of excellent historical information here! Thanks. Think this has the wheel turning for some ideas....

 

[DayTrip]

In the late eighties and early 90s when I was active on the winter lists, the number one biggest change is pretty radical, little or no Internet. Yes Rec. backcountry was there and hadnt fully descended into flame wars but condition reports were slim to none. At best we would look at the AMC Outdoors and look at the trip calendar and figure out where AMC groups had headed. Of course, no guarantees they did not cancel. So turn off the Internet and depend on the NWS weather forecast. You would need to call Pinkham or stop by to read the summit weather report. On occasion for scout trips I would just call the observers a the summit (the number of the summit was in the local phone book and the observers were usually eager for an excuse to break up a shift.

Next plan on using bigger snowshoes as you were going to break trail unless you went a day after an AMC group or a popular weekend

AMC and other groups did the double bushwhack to Isolation (my error filled description is on Mohameds 4K site). The secodn half seems to be far less popular these day replaced by one farther north that follows a drainage one valley north.

Plan on base camping more. Carrigan was frequently basecamped, hike in on Friday night with a pulk, camp then break trail and climb the mountain then head out after the hike. Since there was now a trail down the road and if you did it right use the pulk to sled down. Hancock's were also popular for basecamp as breaking trail up North Hancock could be all day effort if it was not broken. It was 2 steps forward one step back and frequently daylight was gone by the time a crew hit the summit South Hancock would be another day. The former shelter on Rocky Branch got used a lot for Isolation

North and South Twin were tough just due to the long approach even with the approach from Little River road. Both Galeriver trail and North Twin trail are north slope and they would fill in deep with powder snow. combine that with a steep grade and they could wear out a crew.

The Bonds were a frequent basecamp. Hike in, basecamp near FBT then early AM hike up Bondcliff then over to Bond, West Bond and then bushwhack down off the summit to Hellgate then back to the base camp. Camp overnight and head out the next day. Mohammeds epic adventure on this route sort of killed it for most as an option. Folks also did RT 302 to Lincoln with a night at Zealand and a nigth at Guyot. Or break things up and do Bondcliff as an out and back, then do an out and back to Bond and West Bond from Zealand.

Another thing is plan on being a weekend warrior. The usage was lower and trails got broken out later after a storm especially during the week. . If it snowed Sunday night it may be Friday, unless it was school vacation week, before the hard 4Ks were broek out.

The other factor is weather, when I moved u in 1987 winter reliably started earlier and ended later. Sure there were a few odd years where barebooting the summits could be done until January but it was more likely that by Dec 21, folks were breaking trails.

Most Owl approaches were via the trails, BPB seems to have gotten popular with the internet and reinforced by the adoption of effective GPS units (My top of the line 2nd generation portable GPS was pretty useless for any sort of canopy and sure didnt have map capability). My first Owl approach was from the SE side to the mountain starting near Hellgate then heading up a valley to the bump north of the actual Owl Head cliff. I got to see what I think was the first recognized summit on that trip before making it to the second summit.

Speaking of GPS, navigation was tough especially near or above treeline. Without broken tracks it was easy to get off trail and follow a natural feature. I remember spending a couple of hours trying to find the summit of North Twin as the trail was filled in to above the trees. Lot more spruce traps and they were deep.

Tremendous details. Thanks. I rarely look at trip reports anymore and have given up on Facebook so I have been pretty much going off weather reports only for my plans. I was thinking I'd have to bust out the pulk I built a few years ago (and retired quite prematurely after a dismal Zealand Mt attempt) and my big snowshoes and do a few "base camp" style as you described. I have a few mini hikes in mind to prep.

 

[skiguy]

Back in the 70’s base camping was pretty much our de facto style of Winter Peakbagging. Although doing The Presi and Mahoosuc Ranges was better played as a through traverse. Then there was Katahdin with many regulations including a team of a minimum of four, an EMT, and your own provided backup team. The air of self reliance was ever present as Mountain Rescue, Fish and Game, and volunteer SAR was minimum. Also as stated above you were pretty much planning on breaking trail on the way in and more than likely on the way out if it snowed while you were out there. We made a few multi day trips around a week to 10 days I believe around 1978 where we had made food caches in sortie type style efforts. This would be the exception to base camping and would facilitate a more through style. What I miss now is the seclusion that these efforts provided. Glad to have done it when we did as something tells me it’s not coming back.