Owl's Head and 'Whack - 'Whack - 'Whack, 5/24/2008

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BIGEarl

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 18, 2005
Messages
2,103
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Location
Nashua, NH
May 24, 2008: Owl’s Head

Trails: Wilderness Trail, Black Pond Trail, Black Pond Bushwhack, Lincoln Brook Trail, Owl’s Head Path, Brutus Bushwhack, Bushwhack to Franconia Falls, Franconia Falls Trail

Distance – Elevation: ~18 miles, 2850 feet

Hikers: Bobby and BIGEarl

Bobby is working on completing the 4000 Footers with thirty-six done and twelve to go. He contacted me a couple weeks ago with some questions concerning hiking to Owl’s Head. In the course of the discussion I mentioned I had a plan to go there soon. One thing led to another and we ended up doing the hike together.

The last few times I hiked Owl’s Head I had hoped to visit Franconia Falls on the way out. Each of these times there were high water conditions and I believed the falls under those conditions would be an interesting sight to see. Each time the trip to the falls didn’t work out. If the day worked out we were planning on two, and possibly three bushwhacks in the course of the hike, the last bushwhack going to Franconia Falls. Each bushwhack saves a little distance but probably not any time. The Black Pond Bushwhack and the Franconia Falls Bushwhack each save two difficult stream crossings.

We planned to meet at Lincoln Woods for a 7:00am start. On the road I called Bobby to let him know I thought I was running a few minutes late. Actually, I was doing fine. While preparing to head out we bumped into MEB, Little Sister, and Drew – all headed for Owl’s Head too. Their planned route was the same as our’s. After a brief conversation, and a couple pictures, we all set off for the day’s target. MEB, Little Sister, and Drew were out in front by a couple minutes and we never saw them again until mid-hike – they were leaving the summit of Owl’s Head and we were just arriving.

The first part of the hike is a warm-up on the Wilderness Trail, an old logging railroad bed. Flat and boring with enough rotting railroad ties to make walking interesting. In a relatively short time we reached the junction of the Black Pond Trail with the Wilderness Trail and made the turn. We were enjoying terrific hiking conditions; cool, very light breeze, and clouds that were rapidly clearing out. By the time we reached Black Pond there were only very thin high clouds and they were burning off quickly with the morning sun. At Black Pond we stopped for the photo-op of Owl’s Head over Black Pond. The surface of Black Pond was calm making for a nice reflection of the mountain.


‘Whack #1 – Black Pond Bushwhack
Here is the start of our first bushwhack for the day. The approach was a little different this time than on past hikes. Usually, at the end of Black Pond Trail I have simply taken a bearing and headed for the Lincoln Brook Trail. This time I was interested in avoiding all mud, if possible. We started by heading straight up the slope west of Black Pond climbing roughly 100 feet in elevation. At that point we set a course for the Lincoln Brook Trail. This small change made a huge difference. We were immediately out of the wet and muddy area around the pond, the hiking was in relatively open woods, and the small wet areas we did encounter were easily skirted. The bearing was 345 degrees and the target maximum elevation was 2100 feet. This course worked out great. I’ll plan to use this approach in the future. In a short period we were on the Lincoln Brook Trail with clean and dry boots. So far, we’re having a good day. And, the Lincoln Brook is running high.

Next, head for the Owl’s Head slide and stay dry on a couple stream crossings along the way. After a quick break following the bushwhack we set off for the slide. We worked through a couple mud pits along the way. Generally, there are logs or stones to use which will keep your feet clean and dry. In a couple cases the trail actually skirts the pits. We made it to the two final crossings before the slide. After searching upstream for more suitable crossing points we used the traditional places and managed to successfully get across (both would have been very difficult without poles). Soon we were at the base of the slide and enjoying a quick snack before the climb. While we were there a solo hiker came through, had a quick snack, and set off ahead of us on the slide.

The Owl’s Head slide is completely clear and mostly dry. There are a couple small flows coming down the slide but nothing that is creating a problem for climbing. The herd path was completely clear to just above the top of the slide where we encountered the first of many blowdowns. At approximately 3500 feet elevation we found a couple packs sitting on the side of the trail. As it turns out, MEB and Little Sister dropped their packs before heading to the summit. In a short distance we met them and Drew on their way back out. They indicated a plan to take the Brutus Bushwhack instead of the slide. We started thinking about taking the same exit plan. First, the summit. We continued through the blowdown field that exists toward the top of Owl’s Head. There are quite a few new ones that I don’t remember from my last couple trips, possibly a result of last winter’s storms. At approximately 3700 feet we came into a fairly complete snow and ice cover, easily bare booted with very limited postholing. Soon we were on the ridge and headed for the summit. Another blowdown field and Bobby had his #37 Four Thousand Footer. We enjoyed a break on the summit for pictures and a snack and soon prepared for the hike out. Along the way back across the ridge we decided the Brutus Bushwhack would be our exit.

‘Whack #2 – Brutus Bushwhack
The Brutus Bushwhack is always interesting. Reach an elevation that is below the blowdown field, take a generally southwest bearing, and dive into the spruce. There are some fairly thick and steep sections to work through. A couple times we came to drop-offs that required us to back off and offset north or south before continuing. Eventually, wooded sections opened up, then the birch glade, then the old wood road. We hiked back northwest along the wood road for a short distance and then turned left and headed straight down to the brook. We missed the trail and landed on the side of the brook roughly 200 feet downstream. Not much of a miss and we quickly recovered.

Back at the crossing it was clear the stream had come up a little in the course of the day (or a couple rocks had settled into the stream bottom a couple inches deeper). No big deal, we hit the high spots and successfully made the crossings, again. On the return hike along the Lincoln Brook Trail we made a quick stop to filter some water and otherwise made pretty good time to the lower crossing of the Lincoln Brook.

‘Whack #3 – Franconia Falls Bushwhack
Here, we started the third and final bushwhack of the day. From this location we took a bearing of 170 degrees. This course goes directly to Franconia Falls. And, it holds enough elevation to avoid the mud associated with the traditional Fisherman’s Bushwhack, which generally just follows the stream. The bushwhack passed through a mix of open and very thick sections. Generally, it was a mild downhill grade for the full distance. There were only a couple areas of mud that were easily avoided. We stayed on course and soon found ourselves at an elevation of 1600 feet on the hill above Franconia Falls (approx. elevation 1500 feet). All that was left was a walk straight down to the end of the Franconia Falls Trail. We’re now finished with the bushwhacks, and still having a good day.

We paid a visit to the falls for some pictures and to enjoy the place. It sure would have been nice if it were 30 to 40 degrees warmer. The water looked tempting, but cold. Soon we were heading down the trail to the junction with the Wilderness Trail, and then back to Lincoln Woods. We made a brief stop at the NEW Franconia Falls Bridge. Impressive! That thing will be around for quite a while.

Back at Lincoln Woods it didn’t take long for us to change into more comfortable footwear and prepare to leave. I believe Bobby and I were both interested in seeing the Celtics regain home court advantage. We said our goodbyes and were off.

Great hike Bobby, thanks. And, congratulations on #37, I hope we hike a few of the remaining ones together.

I've posted some pictures from the day.

BIGEarl's pictures.

Straight to the slideshow.


:D
 
Last edited:
Nice report, Earl. This was a great hike on a fine day. As Earl said, the weather couldn't have been better to hike in.

A 4:15 AM wake-up came awfully fast after working until midnite, but what can you do? A few sips of coffee and all was well in the world.

It was a pleasure to meet MEB, Little Sister and Drew at Lincoln Woods. Funny, they didn't appear to be mean :) .

Earl did a nice job with the bushwhack bearings, we managed to emerge from the woods in the right spots. After the trip, it's easy to see why some people love the bushwhack, but also easy to see why others won't.

The same is true for the trip to Owl's Head. I found it to be a great hike, and I will go back. I can understand why some won't. It's a lot of work for a one peak day.

We experienced just about everything on this one. It was cloudy with a few raindrops at the start, then the sky cleared up nicely. There was thick woods on the bushwhacks that sometimes opened up for us. We had clear trails and some snow and ice. The slide was interesting, and topping out to reach #37 made it all worthwhile.

Franconia Falls looked inviting, but the water temps were probably in the 40's and that just wouldn't work. I made it home about 10:20 PM, and caught the last few minutes of the Celtics game.

Thanks Earl for a great day. That's four 4K's with you, each has been a pleasure.


Owl's Head pictures
 
Great pics BE, really appreciate it as we're heading for Owls Head next week. Good job & Thanks!
 
Bobby said:
.....
It was a pleasure to meet MEB, Little Sister and Drew at Lincoln Woods. Funny, they didn't appear to be mean :) .
.....
Mean?

I know, but consider this...

In the morning at the Lincoln Woods lot everybody was happy and ready for the day. Then MEB, Little Sister, and Drew took off ahead of us.

Later, we met them near the summit. They were leaving below the summit area and we were arriving. Remember? MEB was still in great shape. Drew had blood coming from his forehead and Little Sister seemed a little worked up about something. :eek:

I'm guessing it wasn't only the sloppy conditions on the ridge that did it. :rolleyes:

But, that's just a guess. ;)

They'll probably say Drew walked into a branch, or something similar. :D
 
BIGEarl said:
Later, we met them near the summit. They were leaving below the summit area and we were arriving. Remember? MEB was still in great shape. Drew had blood coming from his forehead and Little Sister seemed a little worked up about something. :eek:

I'm guessing it wasn't only the sloppy conditions on the ridge that did it. :rolleyes:

But, that's just a guess. ;)

They'll probably say Drew walked into a branch, or something similar. :D

I was near said mountain and said time. I can testify on behalf of either party, but at a price.
 
Thanks Marty. ;)


Fisher Cat said:
Great pics BE, really appreciate it as we're heading for Owls Head next week. Good job & Thanks!
I've got a couple suggestions that might help. Poles are great assistance on the crossings. If you plan to take the trails round trip, a pair of sandals and a towel would be great. I believe you can make two changes in both directions to do the job. This is probably easier but possibly not as much fun as rock-hopping all four, each way. Plus, you'll be able to hike in dry boots (if it matters). We were fortunate on the crossings. With the bushwhacks we avoided the lower two in each direction, which are generally the most difficult.

If you decide on the off-trail approach I hope you enjoy the bushwhacks.

The black flies were really swarming at the lower sections. They weren't biting, yet. Perhaps by next week they will be a little more aggressive. I prefer Ben's 100, but there are many solutions to the problem.

Have a great hike!
Earl

:D
 
Way to go, Earl and Bobby. The pix are spectacular-- and it's great to see Bobby notchin' 'em off left and right!
 
I must have screwed up. The pictures of the "NEW Summit" were not included in the slideshow. They have been added.

If anybody is interested in what to look for while wandering around on the Owl's Head ridge in search of the new high spot, the pictures or slideshow may help.

According to their website, the FTFC accepts either the "traditional" or this "NEW Summit" for hiking credit recognition.

:D


BIGEarl's pictures.


Slideshow.
 
Congrats on your success. I did the exact same hike with my son on Sunday, but could not safely cross Liberty and Lincoln near the slide. Even though the ranger gave the impression that it was doable with high gaiters, he did warn of swiftness. As you mentioned, you felt the level may have rose between your morning and afternoon crossings, the continued warm weather with snow melts from above, made it something i could not safely subject my son to...it was not friendly IMO if it had been merely myself. The water was moving seriously swift at levels that would have been mid-shin in the deepest fastest part. As you mentioned, poles would be essential here. The main purpose of my two cents, is to emphasize the day- to day, even hourly, changes, that are currently occuring in the brooks and streams directly affected by ongoing snowmelt. P.S. my son hated the whacking....the bugs were intense...nostrils, ears etc..not biting, just REALLY agitated!!! But Franconia Falls was well worth the stop over on the way out, the water was churning so much it was a beautiful white-blue color. We will return when the water levels are LOOOOOOOOOOW! (October?, September?)

Also, a CT couple was getting the local law enforcement called on them, as they had pitched a tent just inside the woods at the parking area. They thought the sign regarding no overnight camping literally meant the parking LOT, not adjoining area!
 
Great job on OH! Everyone derides it, but I like it, even bleeding and semi-catatonic on my third time. :) That view of Franconia Ridge from the slide is unique and impressive, and the woods are soooo easy to 'whack through.
Congrats and keep 'em coming!
 
ctsparrow said:
Congrats on your success. I did the exact same hike with my son on Sunday, but could not safely cross Liberty and Lincoln near the slide. Even though the ranger gave the impression that it was doable with high gaiters, he did warn of swiftness. As you mentioned, you felt the level may have rose between your morning and afternoon crossings, the continued warm weather with snow melts from above, made it something i could not safely subject my son to...it was not friendly IMO if it had been merely myself. The water was moving seriously swift at levels that would have been mid-shin in the deepest fastest part. As you mentioned, poles would be essential here. The main purpose of my two cents, is to emphasize the day- to day, even hourly, changes, that are currently occuring in the brooks and streams directly affected by ongoing snowmelt. P.S. my son hated the whacking....the bugs were intense...nostrils, ears etc..not biting, just REALLY agitated!!! But Franconia Falls was well worth the stop over on the way out, the water was churning so much it was a beautiful white-blue color. We will return when the water levels are LOOOOOOOOOOW! (October?, September?)
Sorry you ran into the problems. It seems like you made a good save of the day with your visit to Franconia Falls.

The crossings of Liberty and Lincoln Brooks were interesting, but not that bad with poles. Unfortunately, I didn’t stop to take crossing pictures on the way out. There are some rocks which are visible in the picture at the Lincoln Brook crossing from the morning crossing that were under water in the afternoon. I’d guess the water level increased by between one and two inches in the course of the day (just a guess). When we reached the Lincoln Brook downstream of the usual crossing point on the way out we decided to cross at the first opportunity as we hiked back upstream. We reached the trail crossing before finding a suitable alternate place to cross. At that time another hiker with a dog came through. He spent a couple minutes working on a dry-feet crossing but gave up and simply charged across. The force of the flow didn’t seem that bad for him or the dog.

This is one of those hikes where having sandals and a towel in the pack is probably a good idea. I planned on having both with me but forgot them at home.

The bugs were really swarming, they’ll be biting soon. Here comes deet season. Hopefully we’re out of it by mid July.


MichaelJ said:
Great job on OH! Everyone derides it, but I like it, even bleeding and semi-catatonic on my third time. :) That view of Franconia Ridge from the slide is unique and impressive, and the woods are soooo easy to 'whack through.
Congrats and keep 'em coming!
Thanks MichaelJ,

Yup. Owl's Head - you either love it or hate it, there seems to be no in between. I happen to love it. It's a really nice hike.

:)
 
BIGEarl said:
The crossings of Liberty and Lincoln Brooks were interesting, but not that bad with poles. Unfortunately, I didn’t stop to take crossing pictures on the way out. There are some rocks which are visible in the picture at the Lincoln Brook crossing from the morning crossing that were under water in the afternoon. I’d guess the water level increased by between one and two inches in the course of the day (just a guess). When we reached the Lincoln Brook downstream of the usual crossing point on the way out we decided to cross at the first opportunity as we hiked back upstream. We reached the trail crossing before finding a suitable alternate place to cross. At that time another hiker with a dog came through. He spent a couple minutes working on a dry-feet crossing but gave up and simply charged across. The force of the flow didn’t seem that bad for him or the dog.

I found that while tricky, the last two crossings weren't too bad, and didn't vary too much between when I was going to Owl's Head vs. returning. I didn't have poles/sandals/towel, either.

What I did was a) throw my shoes across to the other side (risky, in the could bounce back into the water, but I was a halfway decent quarterback in 3rd grade), zip my pantlegs off, unbuckle my pack, rock hop as far as I could, then wade across a non-whitewater area with nearby rocks to lean on with my hands (low center of gravity too). Other than being COLD, it wasn't too bad.

If anything, the upper Lincoln crossing seemed a bit easier on the return trip. The Liberty crossing perhaps was slightly higher, but not by any margin I was able to notice.
 
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