Patagonia: Torres del Paine and Fitzroy

[pudgy_groundhog]

Note, the pictures in the post look a little blurry. All our pictures and notes can be found here:

http://www.pbase.com/pudgy_groundhog/patagonia

During March, Steve and I spent three weeks in Chile and Argentina. Our trip was divided into two sections: visiting Torres del Paine in Chile and Los Glaciares National Park in Argentina (mainly the northern section referred to as "Fitzroy").

Getting to the end of the earth is not an inconsequential matter. Especially when you are flying Aerolineas Argentinas. We left Friday evening from JFK and after a long flight, even longer immigration lines, a missed flight, feeling like we were on the Amazing Race, and eight hours on unpaved roads on a bus, we finally arrived Sunday evening in Torres del Paine. *phew* Finally, we could get down to business.

Most people visiting the park hike what is called the "W". The "W" hits many of the highlights of the park and is set up with refugios that allow people to trek in the park without having to carry a tent or food. We intended to do the "W" as part of the full circuit of the Paine Massif. We carried a tent to allow us to be more flexible and although we had dinners in the refugios a few times, we only stayed in one once (after a particularly soggy day). The prices for the refugios had at least doubled from the prices in the guide book. Overall the park was pretty expensive (due to remoteness and being a major tourist attraction).

The circuit + the W is about 75 miles with 10,800 feet elevation gain -- not too bad. We didn't have a set schedule because there were some key places we wanted views, so were going to play it by ear depending on weather and how we felt. I had expected to have a fair amount of clouds and rain and although we did have some, overall the weather was much better than we expected and we were able to see everything we wanted to see. We ended up taking eight days to do the trek, although we hiked over half the mileage in the first three days (around 47 miles) because the weather was super. Our trekking itinerary:

- Las Torres to Refugio Dickson
- Refugio Dickson to Campamento Paso (over Paso John Gardner, the highest point on the circuit)
- Camp. Paso to Lago Paine Grande (formerly known as Lago Pehoe)
- Paine Grande to Camp. Britianica in the Valle del Frances
- Camp. Britanica to Los Cuernos
- Los Cuernos to Las Torres (intended to go to Reg. Chileano or Camp. Torres, but rain changed our mind)
- Las Torres to Camp. Torres (by the base of the Torres)
- Camp. Torres back to Las Torres and out of the park

Some of our favorites: the solitude on the back of the circuit (the W is pretty crowded, even this time of year which is more off peak. I can't even imagine what it would be like in peak season!), Paso John Gardner, Glacier Gray, the Cuernos from Lago Pehoe, Valle del Frances, and the Torres.

And some pictures:

Sunrise over Lago Dickson

Sunrise over Glacier Grey:

Cuernos and Paine Grande at Sunrise from Lago Pehoe:

The Torres at Sunrise:

Gauchos Driving Horses (near Las Torres):

 

[pudgy_groundhog]

Part II:

After our trek in Torres del Paine, we returned to El Calafate (where we had flown to from Buenos Aires) and took another bus to El Chalten. This is northern part of Los Glaciares National Park, a major climbing destination containing Fitzroy and Cerro Torre.

Although the proclaimed National Trekking spot of Argentina, there aren't too many miles of trails here. We spent four days backpacking and had a few days for day hiking. We spent one night at Laguna Torre, which provides great views of Cerro Torre and Glacier Torre. From here we took the shortcut trail over to Campamento Poincenot below Laguna de Los Tres, which has fantastic up close views of Fitzroy. We spent two nights here because there are several great side trips from the camp and we were hoping the weather would clear so we could see Fitzroy. No such luck. Even the weather was decent, low hanging clouds blowing off the ice cap stubbornly stuck to the mountains. We vowed we wouldn't leave until we saw Fitzroy. On our fifth day we finally saw the dang mountain.

Our favorite hike in Fitzroy was an unplanned one: Lomo del Pliegue Tumbado. We hadn't really read anything about this hike before we left and the park really didn't advertise it (I would say 99% of people hike to Laguna de Los Tres or Laguna Torre). The weather was perfect and we had a fantastic panorama of the mountains (both Cerro Torre and Fitzory in view). It was a nice bonus that there were only a few other people on the hike.

Over the course of our stay we also hiked to Mirador Condores, only 15 minutes behind the visitor's center. For such little effort, it provided great views of the area. Its accessibility also made it ideal for sunrise.

We enjoyed our time in El Chalten, which feels like a frontier town. It's a tiny town with no paved roads. Despite being a tourist town (it pretty much exists soley because of the visitors to the park), it didn't feel overly touristy (same for Puerto Natales in Chile, the gateway town to Torres del Paine).

Some pics from our time in Fitzroy:

Fitzroy and the Lights of El Chalten:

Early Morning Light on Cerro Torre and Fitzroy:

Steve at the Lomo del Pliegue Tumbado Mirador:

We returned to El Calafate and had two days to visit some of the glaciers in the southern part of the park. One day we did a boat cruise to Spegazzini, Upsala, and Onelli glaciers and the other day we took a bus to visit Perito Moreno Glacier. If I had to choose just one, I would choose visiting Perito Moreno Glacier. The glacier comes very close to land and the boardwalk provides great views of the glacier (really cool when calving). The glaciers on the boat cruise were impressive, but even more we liked the large icebergs we cruised by:

Overall, our trip was fantastic and even exceeded our expectations. Despite the number of visitors to the parks, it still felt like wild and remote country. The differences in terrain were really interesting, the soaring granite peaks and plentiful glaciers were amazing, and we loved all the different cloud formations and skies we saw. What we read about the Patagonian winds was true -- I've never seen such ferocious wind before! Thankfully, our tent was a champ and survived every night (we met somebody who did not fare so well and had the wind snap her tent poles and rip her tent). And if you like steak, Argentina is the place to go ($8 for filet mignon).

 

[Dr. Dasypodidae]

Thanks for the fine TR and pics! This trip has been on my to do list for a really long time, and especially after our hike up Aconcagua two years ago. Appears that you lucked out big time with the weather.

 

[Doc McPeak]

Another batch of amazing shots, pudgy_groundhog!

Let us know when your book of world travels comes out.

 

[pudgy_groundhog]

Thanks for the fine TR and pics! This trip has been on my to do list for a really long time, and especially after our hike up Aconcagua two years ago. Appears that you lucked out big time with the weather.

Thanks! We definitely got lucky with weather. I think it helped that we went later in the season because the weather is typically more stable as you head into fall/winter than during the peak summer season.

 

[pudgy_groundhog]

Another batch of amazing shots, pudgy_groundhog!

Let us know when your book of world travels comes out.

Thanks - but I can't take all the credit - Steve (halfmoon) took some of the pictures too.

 

[Dr. Dasypodidae]

Thanks! We definitely got lucky with weather. I think it helped that we went later in the season because the weather is typically more stable as you head into fall/winter than during the peak summer season.

I agree, as we arrived at Aconcagua's base camp (route normale) late in the season (mid-February) as most of the outfitters were picking up stakes; we encountered only one day of weather unsuitable for hiking, and that was with hurricane force winds under fairly clear skies.

 

[daxs]

Reading your trip report brought back memories for me as I did a similar trip last year. It well worth the long slog to south america

 

[pudgy_groundhog]

Sounds like you had good weather too (which is always nice when you plan a far away vacation in advance -- can't exactly cancel!). Luckily we only had fierce winds occasionally, but man, they were strong! Once we both even got knocked down by a gust. We got used to "assuming the position". Turning our back to the wind to protect the eyes and crouching down low for stability (and often using a trekking pole to help).

 

[poison ivy]

Color me jealous jealous jealous. Your pictures, as always, are absolutely spectacular!

- Ivy

 

[king tut]

Absolutely stunning!

 

[sli74]

WOW, PG . . . I have just moved this trip to the top of my list. AMAZING !! Truly !!!

sli74

 

[grouseking]

You have further helped me in my decision...I need to go to Patagonia before I die!!! The pictures are absolutely stellar, and it appears that you lucked out weatherwise. I would love to experience those winds, to see how they compare with a nice windy day up in the Presidentials!

grouseking

 

[Early Bird]

I once told by a woman much richer than I that I did a lot of hiking to which she replied, "Ohhh, you HAVE to go to Patagonia." Seeing your pictures, I must say I'll no longer joke about it. You've shown me how amazing Patagonia actually is. Loved the pictures!

 

[Bolivia]

Wow!!!

GREAT pix!

While in the Peace Corps down in Bolivia, I travelled through Argentina, over the Andes near Cristo Redentor, down to southern Chile and (on a second trip) to Macchu Pichu. All very beautiful, but time commitments didn't allow me to go to the areas you visited.

Boy, would I like to be able turn the clock back...

 

[chinooktrail]

WOW! Really, WOW!
It sounds like an amazing time, even the traveling to and from, sounds like an adventure rather than a vacation!
The pix are stunning as well!
Seeing far away places always amazes and inspires me!
Thanks for sharing.

 

[pudgy_groundhog]

Thanks everybody!

I would love to experience those winds, to see how they compare with a nice windy day up in the Presidentials!

I've never experienced full on infamous Presidential winds, so I can't compare. We did meet a lady from Ottawa who had done some hiking in NH. She had said the strongest winds she had ever encountered were on Franconia Ridge, but she thought Patagonia might have been worse (she was the one who had her tent damaged by the wind).

Bolivia, I bet you had a great experience while down there (both the Peace Corps and seeing S. America). There is so much to see in S. America that I hope we return several times. We had three weeks, which sounds like so much to people (especially my boss ), but of all the people we met while down there, we were there for the shortest time. Most people were traveling for at least a few months and some up to a year. I'd love to have that kind of time (and money) to travel!

 

[daxs]

Last year, I can't really remember winds on the Argentina side of the Patagonia. On the Chile side, however, it was a different story. We actually aborted a hike one day because the winds were so strong. You could not walk straight. We looked like a bunch of drunken hikers who had just left a bar and were staggering down the trail. Lots of noise in the tents at night too because of the wind.

I would tell anyone GO GO GO and hike in the patagonia.

 

[dvbl]

pudgy_groundhog, every time you post pictures, everyone seems to like them. I do NOT like your pictures...for the simple reason that they make my pictures appear to have been taken by a seven year old. Next trip, please try to post some terrible pictures and make me feel better.

p.s. A few of those iceberg shots are magazine-worthy.

 

[Doodles]

Breathtaking pictures. Icebergs, sunrise and sunsets, rainbows, horses, a dog in a truck, and more. You two capture it all. Sounds like a magnificent trip.

Thanks for sharing.