Curious if anyone has used both belay devices and if they liked one over the other. They seem to do the same thing and have the same features. Just figured I'd grab any first-hand experience from anyone before I decided which one to get. I'm a Petzl chick mostly, but don't want to be discriminatory.
Petzl Reverso 3 vs. Black Diamond ATC Guide
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Chugach001
New member
I had the Reverso1 for years and loved it - but just lost it. I've recently replaced it with the BD Guide but have only used it for one session. I'm sure it will be fine. Getting used to a new rappel speed is my only real concern. If I have any great feedback later I will post.
Jean
Active member
Got the Reverso and I love it.
mtn.goat
New member
I've had the ATC Guide since it first came out and have been very happy with it. I know this isn't scientific or anything but I do notice more people (and every guide I've ever seen) using it here at my home crag, the Gunks, then the reverso.
J.Dub
Active member
The Rev3 does look pretty sweet, but since I already have about a half-dozen different belay/rappel devices, I can't really justify pickup up yet another one. (Much to the chagrin of my inner gear whore! 
)
I pretty much only use the ATC Guide for ice, as its toothed design works really well on iced up skinny doubles. For single-rope trad I still use my trusty Trango B-52, which feeds "like buttah."
FWIW, there's a long thread on this very topic over on RC, if you haven't seen it yet.
One advantage the Rev3 appears to have over the ATC Guide is the release hole (for autoblock mode) is large enough to clip a biner through, rather than having to string it with a loop of cord or one of those skinny Spectra slings.
)I pretty much only use the ATC Guide for ice, as its toothed design works really well on iced up skinny doubles. For single-rope trad I still use my trusty Trango B-52, which feeds "like buttah."
FWIW, there's a long thread on this very topic over on RC, if you haven't seen it yet.
One advantage the Rev3 appears to have over the ATC Guide is the release hole (for autoblock mode) is large enough to clip a biner through, rather than having to string it with a loop of cord or one of those skinny Spectra slings.
tb69wemt
New member
Just to add more fuel to this discussion........I have both. They are both very similar I have had the Reverso for a long time so I tended to use that more often. In the last year or two I have switched over to using the Kong "Gi Gi" or the Camp "Ovo" These are the exact same devices. The Ovo is cheaper than the Gi Gi and both are half the cost of the Guide or Reverso. The Ovo is a much more versatile belay device than any other I have used.
Craig
New member
2 hunks of cord and 3 biners will get you where you want to go.
No need to have all that wizz bang stuff.
Instead put your money into life insurance. Your offspring will thank you.
No need to have all that wizz bang stuff.
Instead put your money into life insurance. Your offspring will thank you.
cbcbd
Well-known member
I had and used the Guide before dropping it on a route. Now I have a bright green (matches my jacket) Reverso3.
On a subjective point from what I remember it seemed like the Guide was stickier. Currently it is tough to feed my 10.2mm rope through the R3.
Although it's been a while since I used the Guide the orientation of the anchor clip in the Reverso3 is such that when you clip it to your anchor it sits straight instead of at an angle.
Picture this: use a cordalette for your anchor, tie a figure-8 on a bight to make your anchor point. The loops of chord should be oriented horizontally. You clip a biner to it vertically oriented. To the other side of the biner you clip your horizontally oriented holed R3, leaving the device sitting flat. The Guide will be sitting facing the sides.
Again, it's something small but it's part of the design difference.
The bigger hole in the R3 is nice but you can't really get a full biner in there. It's meant to accept the nose of a Petzl biner into the hole and use the biner as a lever. Personally I just skip unlocking it with a biner and prefer to girth hitch a dyneema sling through it - something that used to be impossible with the Guide due to the small hole. I'm not sure but I think BD enlarged their release hole a little bit but I can't guarantee that you can girth a dyneema through it.
I'd get the one that has the best color to match the rest of your gear.
On a subjective point from what I remember it seemed like the Guide was stickier. Currently it is tough to feed my 10.2mm rope through the R3.
Although it's been a while since I used the Guide the orientation of the anchor clip in the Reverso3 is such that when you clip it to your anchor it sits straight instead of at an angle.
Picture this: use a cordalette for your anchor, tie a figure-8 on a bight to make your anchor point. The loops of chord should be oriented horizontally. You clip a biner to it vertically oriented. To the other side of the biner you clip your horizontally oriented holed R3, leaving the device sitting flat. The Guide will be sitting facing the sides.
Again, it's something small but it's part of the design difference.
The bigger hole in the R3 is nice but you can't really get a full biner in there. It's meant to accept the nose of a Petzl biner into the hole and use the biner as a lever. Personally I just skip unlocking it with a biner and prefer to girth hitch a dyneema sling through it - something that used to be impossible with the Guide due to the small hole. I'm not sure but I think BD enlarged their release hole a little bit but I can't guarantee that you can girth a dyneema through it.
I'd get the one that has the best color to match the rest of your gear.
Last edited:
J.Dub
Active member
leaf said:
Stutter much...?
leaf said:
Oh, you ladies and your matching accessories.
A friend of mine picked up a pair of BD Reactors a coupla seasons ago -- in their stock, hideous baby-puke yellow/green color -- primarily because they matched her (also hideously baby-puke yellow/green) LaSportiva ice climbing bootz.
I think she might've said they swung well, too...
sierra
Well-known member
I swear by the ATC, but never used the reverso, that being said, I love petzel toys, I use the shunt, and used to use the soloist when I was a little more crazy.
cbcbd
Well-known member
A friend of mine picked up a pair of BD Reactors a coupla seasons ago -- in their stock, hideous baby-puke yellow/green color -- primarily because they matched her (also hideously baby-puke yellow/green) LaSportiva ice climbing bootz.
Hey, I want to steal my girlfriend's new Fusions because they'd also match my jacket and belay device
Sweet tools in a great color
I love using a GiGi... Does pretty much everything that the R3 & Guide do, but in a smaller foot print. I picked it up a few years ago after learning about it from old friend/Guide in the Gunks.
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