Previously on Lost - in the Belknaps?

[rocksnrolls]

Earlier this year I responded to Carole's call for trail adopters for the eastern Belknap Range. After considering the list of available trails she sent me, I chose the Precipice Path. This trail is kind of shaped like a large U, with one leg ascending Straightback Mtn and the other ascending Mt Anna. Down at it's bottom it crosses in front of a good sized waterfall - perhaps named Cascade Falls? - reputedly the tallest in the range. On the 4th of July weekend I made my first visit, clearing brush and a few blowdowns. Near the end of August I revisited the trail with a friend as part of a loop over the two peaks as well as Mt Mack, Mt Klem, Rand Mtn, West and East Quarry Mtn, and North and South Straightback Mtn. That was as awesome hike!!

On this day my plan was to approach my trail from Mt Major and add some flagging to facilitate a snowshoe trip this winter. I got kind of a late start and was getting into the area near when the Gilford Public Library would be opening, so I stopped by to pick up a few more maps. I got to the parking lot a little before 11am, with only two other vehicles present. I supposed the potential for rain had scared most people away. To ascend Mt Major I ended up using the Boulder Loop Tr. I had hoped to locate the unsigned Beeline or Express Trs but with so many leaves on the ground obscuring the tread, I was never quite sure where the trails were. That was OK, though, as the Boulder Loop os quite a nice trail and I especially enjoyed the boulder fields that it passed through.

After a brief stop on the summit, I headed onto the Major/Straightback Link and was soon at the top of the Precipice Path. Hiking downhill, I was surprised to see that someone had apparently beaten me to the punch. There were new tape blazes, so apparently I'm not the only person maintaining this trail. So I meandered along on the trail, enjoying the views, removing redundant tape blazes and adding a few when I felt they would be helpful. By the time I had made it back up to the top of the Mt Anna side of the trail it was getting late, almost 4pm. I wasn't worried, though. I had my headlamp and extra batteries and had hiked in the dark several times before.

What I hadn't considered was the fine mist that was falling from the sky. It was diffusing my light and making it quite hard to follow the blue-blazed Link. Locating the trail was getting more and more difficult. I would often have to retrace my steps to the last blaze because I could not find the next one. In one particularly confusing spot I must have wandered back and forth for 15 minutes trying to follow the trail. Amicus had offered to let me crash at his house in Freedom that night since we were both joining the Southern Ossipee hike the next day, so I called him up on my cell phone to let him know I would be running a little late. I was also hoping he would be familiar with the area I was in and could give me some advice.

Eventually I managed to make my way to where the blue blazes were joined by the yellow blazes of the Brook Tr. These yellow blazes were much easier to follow, so I then started making good time as I headed back to the summit of Mt Major. Reaching the old foundation at the summit, I contemplated my options. Originally I had planned to follow the Main Tr back to the parking lot, but I was having a tough time finding the blue blazes of that trail. So I decided to follow the orange blazed Boulder Loop Tr instead. But on the rocky summit, I was having a tough time finding where that trail was too. Frustrated, I walked an arc around the summit and managed to locate the Main Tr and started down it. It was soon a repeat of my trouble with the Link - mist making it hard to locate the trail. The trail seemed to head down a slabby area nad I descended that for a while, soon reaching the trees. But now where was the trail?? I tried hunting around at the bottom of the ledgy area but had no luck.

I was getting pretty nervous at this point and called home to discuss the situation with Dugan. She's much more experienced in adverse hiking conditions and her calmness and suggestions helped me to calm down. I decided to head back up to the summit and try again with the orange blazes. To add to my frustration I had a hard time finding the summit. I had totally lost the blue blazes so decided to just head uphill. I topped out with no sign of the foundation that marks the summit. OK, so I was on a flase summit, but I knew the real summit could not be far. Sure enough, after hunting around in the increasingly windy and misty dark, I found the summit.

Determined to follow the orange blazes, I headed off. I had an easier time by keeping an eye on my compass and trying to keep a little east of south as I hunted for the blazes. Soon I was in the woods and was having a much easier time following the trail, only having to retrace my steps now and then. Soon I was through the boulder field and was feeling the worst was over. Well, it seems I missed a turn. Being overly confident I had gone on without seeing a blaze for a little longer than I should have. It occured to me that the ground under my feet did not feel like I was on a trail any more. I tried to retrace my steps to find the trail, but blew it and searched for 10 minutes or so.

At this point I was fed up. I knew that if I followed a compass bearing between east and northeast I would eventually intersect the Beaver Pond Tr. I knew this was a snowmobile trail so figured it would be easy to spot when I hit it and if I missed it I would eventually come out to the road. So I started whacking my way down through the fairly open woods and found it to be fairly easy going. Having a wide bearing to aim for made it easy to avoid the thicker vegetation. Not having to constantly search for blazes meant that I was able to enjoy my surroundings more and I actually enjoyed this part of the hike quite a bit. After whacking for about an hour, I came across the orange blazes again, this time with an obvious path through the woods to follow. I soon reached the junction with the Beaver Pond Tr and was relieved to know that I was only .4 miles from my car.

Reaching my car, I checked the temp. It was 65 degrees at 9pm on a November night. I felt fortunate that it had not been colder as had I managed to stay comfortable despite the precipitation. I contacted Dugan and Amicus to let them know I had made it out OK. It took about an hour to drive to Freedom where a hot shower, a delicious dinner, conversation with Amicus and McRat (who was also joining us on the Ossipee hike) and a rum and coke got me relaxed enough to get to sleep.

I had been considering cancelling my participation in the Ossipees hike. After my 10 hour adventure the night before I had worried I'd be too tired to keep up. Thankfully after a good night's sleep, I felt refreshed and ready for some more hiking. I was glad to be able to hike with such a great group of people. I was able to just follow along without worrying about finding the trail. I enjoyed talking about my trouble the night before. I was generally the last in line, but nobody seemed to mind too much. The loop we hiked was gorgeous and I hope to return someday when I might be a little more mentally sharp and have a better chance of remembering it all. Thanks to Rocket21, Amicus, Trail Bandit and his Minion for making the day such a delight.

 

[rocket21]

Wow! I hadn't heard the whole story on the hike and didn't realize you had been out there that late! Glad you're okay. Sounds like you need to learn the Brook Trail - since it's mostly an old road, I find it fairly easy to follow in the dark.

 

[BobC]

Wow - glad to hear you got out ok. I've been on Mt. Major 3 times and once was at night, and I was glad to be with a group since it was hard to find the trail in the dark.

 

[Amicus]

Amicus had offered to let me crash at his house in Freedom that night since we were both joining the Southern Ossipee hike the next day, so I called him up on my cell phone to let him know I would be running a little late. I was also hoping he would be familiar with the area I was in and could give me some advice.

If I'd had Carole's phone number, that would have been better advice than what I was able to give. There is a welter of trails from that terminus lot up to the Mt. Major summit, as you have come to know. You were at least fortunate in the balmy, summer-like temps, and I know how relief adds spice to your steak and zip to your rum-and-coke.

I'm particularly glad that you were able to join Trail Bandit, Mary, rocket and the rest of us for the big Ossipees traverse the next morning - not one to have missed.

 

[RoySwkr]

What I hadn't considered was the fine mist that was falling from the sky. It was diffusing my light and making it quite hard to follow the blue-blazed Link.

Was it an LED light? I hear they are inferior to regular lights in fog.

At this point I was fed up. I knew that if I followed a compass bearing between east and northeast I would eventually intersect the Beaver Pond Tr. I knew this was a snowmobile trail so figured it would be easy to spot when I hit it and if I missed it I would eventually come out to the road. So I started whacking my way down through the fairly open woods and found it to be fairly easy going. Having a wide bearing to aim for made it easy to avoid the thicker vegetation. Not having to constantly search for blazes meant that I was able to enjoy my surroundings more and I actually enjoyed this part of the hike quite a bit.

How familiar are you with the Mt Major trails? At that hour, I would have just gone down what I call the Brook Trail from the Straightback-Major col to the parking lot mostly on an old woods road.

And how familiar are you with bushwhacking? Once I was on the summit, I think I would just have headed NE along the principal ridge where there are multiple strands of the Main Trail. Once you get started in the right direction you don't even need the compass - put it away and use your energy finding an easy way and looking for herd paths. {There are some genuine cliffs and other bad stuff here and at other spots on the mountain and you don't want to deal with these either holding or thinking about a compass.} Just walk downhill and eventually you will hit either the woods road the Main Trail follows or if you veer very far R possibly the woods road the Boulder Loop is on. I think you sort of figured this out.

As you noticed, the important thing is to remain calm which you did. Next time you will figure out what to do even if you don't have cell service

 

[DougPaul]

What I hadn't considered was the fine mist that was falling from the sky. It was diffusing my light and making it quite hard to follow the blue-blazed Link.

Take the headlamp off and carry it in your hand like a flashlight. This will reduce the amount of backscatter that gets in your eyes. For instance, when I am night biking in the fog, I turn my helmet light off and use only my handlebar lights.

Was it an LED light? I hear they are inferior to regular lights in fog.

LED lights tend to be bluer (shorter wavelength) than the redder (longer wavelength) incandescents. Longer wavelengths are scattered less by particles (droplets) in the air. I don't know if this makes any meaningful difference for headlamps and mist/fog--it depends on the size of the particles relative to the wavelength of the light. The military uses infra-red (extra-long wavelength) vision devices to see through fog and smoke.


Rocksnrolls: glad to hear you survived unscathed.

Doug

 

[Tobit]

LED lights tend to be bluer (shorter wavelength) than the redder (longer wavelength) incandescents. Longer wavelengths are scattered less by particles (droplets) in the air.

With that said, would it be a good idea to make your backup light different than your primary? For instance, if your primary light is an LED type, make your backup an incandescent of some kind? I know most people carry a backup just in case. Just thinking..

 

[cbcbd]

Cool story, but it sounds like "the mountain" didn't want to let you go. Sounds like you belong there.

Rocks... you have to go back!!

 

[DougPaul]

With that said, would it be a good idea to make your backup light different than your primary? For instance, if your primary light is an LED type, make your backup an incandescent of some kind? I know most people carry a backup just in case. Just thinking..

I doubt it. The other advantages of the LED lights are, IMO, overwhelming.

A few headlamps include red LEDs (typically along with white) or you could change a headlamp to red. (Might require some detailed technical knowledge.) You can also get red pinch lights, but they aren't very bright.

Doug

 

[carole]

If I'd had Carole's phone number, that would have been better advice than what I was able to give.

I’ll add a few comments since my name was brought up. First, being that since I was in Vermont, I wouldn’t have been much help. Second that these suggestions are for anyone reading this thread.

Sounds like you need to learn the Brook Trail - since it's mostly an old road, I find it fairly easy to follow in the dark.

I agree with Jeremy. If following the yellow blazes was easiest than that would be the best route, even though longer in mileage, it is often the easiest descent route in bad conditions.

And how familiar are you with bushwhacking? Once I was on the summit, I think I would just have headed NE along the principal ridge where there are multiple strands of the Main Trail. Once you get started in the right direction you don't even need the compass - put it away and use your energy finding an easy way and looking for herd paths. Just walk downhill and eventually you will hit either the woods road the Main Trail follows or if you veer very far R possibly the woods road the Boulder Loop is on.

Two comments on this post of Roy’s:
First, the suggestion to head down and look for herd paths is a bit outdated. A lot of effort has been made in the past several years to re-vegetate the myriad of herd paths on the upper Main Trail that resulted from people trying to find their way up or down. Now there is a well-blazed route, with one detour route (with signs) for bypassing a ledge area that is quite difficult to ascend or descend in wet or icy conditions. All other paths have successfully been growing in and disappearing (I am hoping it continues).
Second, most of the eastern side of the mountain (along with several other large areas around the mountain) contains large boulder fields that can be quite dangerous, if not deadly, especially in poor visibility. If you are not familiar with any of the trails in that area bushwhacking in that direction wouldn’t be the best escape route in poor conditions.


I’m glad you survived to share candidly with us. Take comfort in knowing that many people have done much worse in broad daylight.

 

[RoySwkr]

First, being that since I was in Vermont, I wouldn’t have been much help.

Ah, but if you had your cell phone or Blackberry you could have given advice from there as well as NH

First, the suggestion to head down and look for herd paths is a bit outdated. ... Now there is a well-blazed route, with one detour route (with signs) for bypassing a ledge area that is quite difficult to ascend or descend in wet or icy conditions. All other paths have successfully been growing in and disappearing (I am hoping it continues).

Apparently that route isn't well-blazed enough if an experienced hiker can't follow it even in fog While I'm guilty of suggesting an environmentally-sensitive route, it is as I said what _I_ would have done not what LNT would advocate.

Second, most of the eastern side of the mountain (along with several other large areas around the mountain) contains large boulder fields that can be quite dangerous, if not deadly, especially in poor visibility. If you are not familiar with any of the trails in that area bushwhacking in that direction wouldn’t be the best escape route in poor conditions.

There are some genuine cliffs and other bad stuff on Main Trail, Boulder Loop, and at other spots on the mountain and you don't want to deal with these either holding or thinking about a compass. I have edited my previous note to make that advice more explicit. Minor cliffs aren't all bad, as a well-known NJ bushwhacker would say they tend to direct you to feasible routes which is where trails or herd paths will be picked up.

 

[Silverfox]

Hey rocksnroll

I didn't get the extended version of your Mt Major experience on the Ossipee hike the next day..,,whew....quite a night you had

Hiking in the fog makes everything so mysterious..the fog at night even more so..good tip to take the head lamp off and hold it down low....fog lights...

happy to hang back a bit on the Ossipee hike with you..that sure was a nice day..my aching knee enjoyed the somewhat slower pace at times..

they don't call him Rocket for nothing.....

 

[rocksnrolls]

Sounds like you need to learn the Brook Trail - since it's mostly an old road, I find it fairly easy to follow in the dark.

I thought about that when I first reached the junction with the Brook Tr. In retrospect it would have been the thing to do. The yellow blazes where the easiest of all to spot. I haven't been on it before and I was afraid the trail would have been very wet at the time

Was it an LED light? I hear they are inferior to regular lights in fog.


How familiar are you with the Mt Major trails? At that hour, I would have just gone down what I call the Brook Trail from the Straightback-Major col to the parking lot mostly on an old woods road.

And how familiar are you with bushwhacking? Once I was on the summit, I think I would just have headed NE along the principal ridge where there are multiple strands of the Main Trail. Once you get started in the right direction you don't even need the compass - put it away and use your energy finding an easy way and looking for herd paths. {As Carole notes, there are some genuine cliffs here and at other spots on the mountain and you don't want to deal with these either holding or thinking about a compass.} Just walk downhill and eventually you will hit either the woods road the Main Trail follows or if you veer very far R possibly the woods road the Boulder Loop is on. I think you sort of figured this out.

As you noticed, the important thing is to remain calm which you did. Next time you will figure out what to do even if you don't have cell service

Yes it was an LED light. I have some bushwhacking experience, but not having planned to be doing that on this trip I had not studied the contours enough to decide on a route.

Take the headlamp off and carry it in your hand like a flashlight. This will reduce the amount of backscatter that gets in your eyes. For instance, when I am night biking in the fog, I turn my helmet light off and use only my handlebar lights.


LED lights tend to be bluer (shorter wavelength) than the redder (longer wavelength) incandescents. Longer wavelengths are scattered less by particles (droplets) in the air. I don't know if this makes any meaningful difference for headlamps and mist/fog--it depends on the size of the particles relative to the wavelength of the light. The military uses infra-red (extra-long wavelength) vision devices to see through fog and smoke.


Rocksnrolls: glad to hear you survived unscathed.

Doug

I did hold the lamp in my hand at times, especially when I was having trouble on the summit itself. I think in the future I will also carry an incandescent as a backup.

Apparently that route isn't well-blazed enough if an experienced hiker can't follow it even in fog While I'm guilty of suggesting an environmentally-sensitive route, it is as I said what _I_ would have done not what LNT would advocate.


As Carole notes, there are some genuine cliffs on Main Trail, Boulder Loop, and at other spots on the mountain and you don't want to deal with these either holding or thinking about a compass. I have edited my previous note to make that advice more explicit. Minor cliffs aren't all bad, as a well-known NJ bushwhacker would say they tend to direct you to feasible routes which is where trails or herd paths will be picked up.

I wouldn't suggest more blazes on these trails. It was very easy to follow in the light. I was very careful to avoid falling off any cliffs as I knew there was some ledgy sections


Thanks for the comments

 

[carole]

I wasn’t going to respond because I’m sure Roy can get himself out of difficult situations but as I had previously stated, “these suggestions are for anyone reading this thread.” I stand by what I originally posted that his suggestions are outdated and dangerous.

While I'm guilty of suggesting an environmentally-sensitive route, it is as I said what _I_ would have done not what LNT would advocate.

I made no reference to LNT. Rather that your information is outdated as someone would have a difficult time finding the herd paths you refer to in the daylight thus even less chance of finding them in the dark, especially if the blazed path was difficult to find.

As Carole notes, there are some genuine cliffs on Main Trail, Boulder Loop, and at other spots on the mountain and you don't want to deal with these either holding or thinking about a compass.

I made no mention of cliffs. While the top of the mountain is open ledge and drops off steeply in some areas, it was the suggestion to “Just walk downhill and eventually you will hit either the woods road the Main Trail follows or if you veer very far R possibly the woods road the Boulder Loop is on.” Heading downhill on the eastern side of the mountain is what I call dangerous - adventurous in the daylight, dangerous in wet, dark or icy conditions.

Ah, but if you had your cell phone or Blackberry you could have given advice from there as well as NH

I still communicate by smoke signals.

 

[RoySwkr]

To ascend Mt Major I ended up using the Boulder Loop Tr.
... Originally I had planned to follow the Main Tr back to the parking lot, but I was having a tough time finding the blue blazes of that trail. So I decided to follow the orange blazed Boulder Loop Tr instead.

On second reading, you decided to go down the way you came up which would be the most recently familiar and good general advice in similar situations

As per Carole's opinion, you can waste a lot of energy looking for a trail. If you are happy about bushwhacking this energy is often better spent just finding the easiest way down. If you are nervous about bushwhacking then it will cost you more energy so you should stick to trails. My original message asked how experienced a bushwhacker he was. The terrain on Mt Major is not flat but cavers find their way on tougher terrain every day, and in the dark, too.

 

[Dennis C.]

I've been on Mt. Major 3 times and once was at night ...

It always amazes me when hikers mention Mt. Major. I've heard so many stories, the great views, and yet .... it still isn't on my hiking resume. I guess I've left a quality straggler after all .... not so

 

[RoySwkr]

It always amazes me when hikers mention Mt. Major. I've heard so many stories, the great views, and yet .... it still isn't on my hiking resume. I guess I've left a quality straggler after all ....

If you try the Main Trail in winter, bring real crampons - it can be a serious if tiny peak

Or look at the boat schedule before a summer hike for the days and times the big one goes to Alton

 

[Dennis C.]

Thanks for the advice, Roy. I'm thinking of finally doing it as a winter warmup this month.