Rainier Speed Record

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Justin was the lead guide on my LR climb a month ago. We talked about the record on our climb. Not only is Justin a great climber he is also a great guy and an awesome guide. I love the fact that he did it with no witnesses, he did it for himself and those who know him (none of which would doubt his credibility).
 
Jay H said:
Is there an "official" speed record?
No, no one is designated to keep official records. There's a great deal of acrimony and accusations about some Ranier records; the whole scene is rather ugly.
 
He said he used his pictures of his watch as a timing device, but I guess nobody at Camp Muir or at the lodge.

Wow, ~1.5 hours to descent from Col. Crest to Paradise.. no buttsliding the Muir snowfield? :p

Jay
 
considering when I climbed rainier, I was in by far the best shape of my life, was climbing washington in less than 3 hours to summit - with 50-60 pounds of water loaded in the pack and I think my time to muir was about 4.5 hours or so. This guy pretty much went up and down the entire peak - in that time.

for those who don't know - its about 18 miles r/t and 18K of ele gain and loss (9k gain) - but I think anyone that knows, for some reason a mile out there doesn't = a mile here. something out there is just tougher. air, terrain, not really sure.

granted - he was of course very acclimitized, does this for a living, knows the route inside and out, doesn't sit in an office all week, but that only accounts for so much - pretty damn cool.
 
giggy said:
granted - he was of course very acclimitized, does this for a living, knows the route inside and out, doesn't sit in an office all week, but that only accounts for so much - pretty damn cool.
I guess we should throw in what he called "perfect" conditions too, which the guy should know considering he has an estimated 106 summits there.
:eek: :cool:
 
First, this is freakin unbelievable. I'm not sure what to equate it to. Congrats to him, regardless of what detractors will say.
Second, this does not hurt the rep of his employer, IMG. We met one of the owners of IMG when we were there, who is closing in on 500 summits of Rainier, :eek: which is rarefied air also. Many of their guides have over 100 summits of Rainier, let alone everyplace else they're climbing.

There is definately tension between the guide groups there, like elsewhere I'm sure. Hopefully it all remains in the healthy competition mode and doesn't degrade.
 
giggy said:
granted - he was of course very acclimitized, does this for a living, knows the route inside and out, doesn't sit in an office all week, but that only accounts for so much - pretty damn cool.
.... actually it accounts for most everything, when you think about it. He's in the ultimate shape for the task at hand.
 
What a wimp...he did'nt even wear his Speedo from start to finish. I don't think that anyone could recognize this as anything but a truely remarkable feat. I heard he was going to try to do the same circuit wearing Tevas the next go around but I hope he makes a serious investment in Moleskin beforehand. Keep on rising the bar...it's what makes the world go round :D
 
And here is another speed record: the Nose on El Cap

To put this one in perspective, many climbers still spend three to four days on this route....and Warren Harding spent weeks on the first ascent in 1958.


On July 2, 2008, Hans Florine and Yuji Hirayama climbed the Nose on El Capitan in 2:43:33, besting the previous record by just over two minutes. Florine and Hirayama held the iconic route's speed record from 2002 until last autumn, when Alex and Thomas Huber broke it twice, establishing 2:45:45 as the new time to beat.

With hopes of again holding the speed record for the Nose, Hirayama of Japan flew in to California for two weeks to join Florine in Yosemite Valley. The pair spent about a week ramping up for their attempt on Sunday, June 29, which proved just shy of the Hubers's time.

However, their speed ascent on Wednesday—the last chance for Hirayama to try for the record before flying home—proved successful. On Florine's website, www.speedclimb.com, Tom Evans reported that "it was a zoo [in the Valley]."
 
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