Recommendations for Strongest Collapsing Trekking Poles?

[Remix]

I bent the lower section of my Leki Malakus 3 times, and they have sent me replacement sections each time. Although the last time they did suggest that I get a heavier duty pole .

Got the replacement section from Karen Kane a few weeks ago, all shipped free, within about 10 days of filling in the web form. It came complete with new carbide tip. The standard hiking, skiing, and deep snow basket attachments that I have accumulated over the years still fit this tip.

Upon disassembly of the old pole, I noticed the interior polyethylene expander had ground aluminum oxide on its surface whereever it pressed against the interior. These points were polished and much smoother than non-contact points. I never had a problem locking the poles but I could see how this is part that wears and can lose its grip. You might consider getting new expanders if you have any trouble twist locking the poles.


FYI, I was told the Summit Tour model is the strongest LEKI metal pole.

 

[LivesToHike]

I have a pair of Leki low-end Al twist-lock poles that I use for 3 season hiking, and I switched last winter to using a pair of Black Diamond Al poles [a return at LLBean's outlet]. I like the BD poles for winter, as their pole section clamps seem to work better for me in wet winter weather; so far, over several winter hikes I've not had them collapse. I've had trouble with the Leki (both the Malaku and my current Leki cheapos [from REI's outlet]) collapsing on me in the winter, I found that I was constantly re-tightening the twistlocks on the Leki's . And I've had to replace the internal plastic parts on several occasions, to no avail. I will say that Leki's work fine for me in the warmer months. Your mileage might vary depending.

For longevity be sure to dry out the pole sections on any metal hiking pole after any wet or snowy excursions. This keeps the corrosion to a dull roar.

Mike

PS I bent my Leki Malaku's a few years back. I can almost swear I hear them whimpering away in our basement.

 

[DougPaul]

Upon disassembly of the old pole, I noticed the interior polyethylene expander had ground aluminum oxide on its surface whereever it pressed against the interior. These points were polished and much smoother than non-contact points. I never had a problem locking the poles but I could see how this is part that wears and can lose its grip. You might consider getting new expanders if you have any trouble twist locking the poles.

Aluminum oxide on the expanders suggests that you should brush out the interiors of the pole sections. There is probably more oxide lurking in there.

Not long ago, I brushed out my poles (they were working perfectly well--this was just routine maintenance) and found that one was clean and one section of the other had quite a bit of oxide in it. (It comes out as a white dust.)

I have a cleaning kit made by Leki which consists of some brass brushes, some shafts, and a handle. However it does not appear to be available any more. (The label says "LEKI PT-8L8 Cleaning Kit". For more info http://www.google.com/search?ie=ISO...i+"cleaning+kit"&gbv=1&oq=Leki+"cleaning+kit".) Several posters found by the search suggest that one substitute gun brushes for 14mm (=.55 inch) and 16mm (=.63 inch) barrels. One poster suggested that one contact Leki customer service and ask about the kit http://www.leki.com

Doug

 

[DougPaul]

I've had trouble with the Leki (both the Malaku and my current Leki cheapos [from REI's outlet]) collapsing on me in the winter, I found that I was constantly re-tightening the twistlocks on the Leki's . And I've had to replace the internal plastic parts on several occasions, to no avail. I will say that Leki's work fine for me in the warmer months. Your mileage might vary depending.

I'd check the expanders and replace any that are worn or stiff. If that isn't a problem or doesn't fix it, try cleaning the insides of the poles and lubricating the expansion screws. A long time ago, one of my Lekis started to slip because the expansion screw was corroded (I couldn't tighten the lock sufficiently). I cleaned it up, lubricated* it with a tiny dab of petroleum jelly (Vaseline) or silicone grease (better) and all was well again. Since then, an occasional cleaning (pole interiors and expansion screws) and lubrication and all is well.

* Make sure you only lubricate the screw threads and none gets on the outside of the expanders.

Also make sure that the baskets can rotate--if not, you will unscrew the twist lock on oneside as you walk past the planted pole.

Doug

<meta comment>
Yeah, I know. I sound like a broken record saying "clean and lubricate, clean and lubricate". But it does work.
</meta comment>

 

[LivesToHike]

I'd check the expanders and replace any that are worn or stiff. If that isn't a problem or doesn't fix it, try cleaning the insides of the poles and lubricating the expansion screws. A long time ago, one of my Lekis started to slip because the expansion screw was corroded (I couldn't tighten the lock sufficiently). I cleaned it up, lubricated* it with a tiny dab of petroleum jelly (Vaseline) or silicone grease (better) and all was well again. Since then, an occasional cleaning (pole interiors and expansion screws) and lubrication and all is well.

* Make sure you only lubricate the screw threads and none gets on the outside of the expanders.

Also make sure that the baskets can rotate--if not, you will unscrew the twist lock on oneside as you walk past the planted pole.

Doug

<meta comment>
Yeah, I know. I sound like a broken record saying "clean and lubricate, clean and lubricate". But it does work.
</meta comment>

Thanks, Doug. I haven't used Leki's (formerly available) cleaning kit, but I constructed my own from some Harbor Freight Brushes. I've also used 600 or higher grit sandpaper to cleanout both the pole end, as well as the internal part of the pole. At one point I coated the very top of the pole section (the metal screw where the plastic expander is seated) with Rustolium primer. This helped to stop some of the oxide build-up. I have replaced the expanders on occasion as well. I don't know that I ever got satisfactory results, but I'll try again. Repetition, assuming one takes greater care to detail and finds better results, is part of good engineering, right?

I think my reluctance to use my Leki poles in winter is that: (a) I've been burned by my Leki's Makalu's bending on me, (b) poles collapsing in under dicey winter conditions and (c) [not previously mentioned on my part] losing one section of a Makalu pole when apparently a tree branch plucked it off my pack when I was busy grabbing trees and trying not to fall down a very icy slide area. Part (a) is related to being a klutz and is therefore truly operator error. Part (b) and (c) might have been addressed by having the twist lock grip properly (Although if the tree branch had firmly latched onto my hiking pole, pack and therefore me, I might not be hiking right now. . (b) & (c) may be due to a lack of good hiking pole hygiene. So, repeating your statements on cleaning is worthwhile.

Mike

 

[DougPaul]

Thanks, Doug. I haven't used Leki's (formerly available) cleaning kit, but I constructed my own from some Harbor Freight Brushes. I've also used 600 or higher grit sandpaper to cleanout both the pole end, as well as the internal part of the pole. At one point I coated the very top of the pole section (the metal screw where the plastic expander is seated) with Rustolium primer. This helped to stop some of the oxide build-up. I have replaced the expanders on occasion as well. I don't know that I ever got satisfactory results, but I'll try again. Repetition, assuming one takes greater care to detail and finds better results, is part of good engineering, right?

I think my reluctance to use my Leki poles in winter is that: (a) I've been burned by my Leki's Makalu's bending on me, (b) poles collapsing in under dicey winter conditions and (c) [not previously mentioned on my part] losing one section of a Makalu pole when apparently a tree branch plucked it off my pack when I was busy grabbing trees and trying not to fall down a very icy slide area. Part (a) is related to being a klutz and is therefore truly operator error. Part (b) and (c) might have been addressed by having the twist lock grip properly (Although if the tree branch had firmly latched onto my hiking pole, pack and therefore me, I might not be hiking right now. . (b) & (c) may be due to a lack of good hiking pole hygiene. So, repeating your statements on cleaning is worthwhile.

You don't mention whether you lubed the screws--the first time I had problems, there was corrosion on the expansion screw so I cleaned and lubed it. (Don't recall if I cleaned the tubes or even whether they needed cleaning.) That alone made a huge difference. (The same twisting force tightens the expansion nuts a lot more.) Now I just clean and lube proactively.

I have 2-section poles which I use for skiing and snowshoeing and 3-section Makalus for hiking. The 2-section poles appear to be a bit stronger than the Makalus. I have snow baskets for the Makalus and carry them in winter only when I expect to put them on the pack for part of the hike. I've certainly fallen on them and caught them in rocks and wood often enough, but nothing broken or bent so far... (Knock on aluminum.)

Doug

 

[Hikes with Hannah]

I've used the Black Diamond trekking poles for a number of years now - my knees are much happier and I've never had them collapse unexpectedly. Fell on one awkwardly coming down Brutus Bushwhack a few winters ago and it just about broke in half - REI replaced it for free even though it wasn't a problem with the pole itself. Had one of the flik-locks get stuck last year due to some grit getting stuck and couldn't extend that section of the pole during a hike, but fortunately they were again replaced for free. If you don't already, make sure to wipe down all sections and dry them thoroughly after every hike especially in the winter if they get covered in snow - since I've been more diligent about it I haven't had any issues, and they've been an essential piece of year-round equipment for me.

 

[Silverfox]

My first Komperdell Titanal Contour poles lasted for years and they were fantastic. Finally the tips wore down and I treated myself to some new poles last year. I have not had good luck since then smashing up one set of Black Diamonds basic flick lock, went back to Komperdells (twist lock) and they literally broke first use. Had them replaced and next pair (flick lock) broke on second use. Picked up a pair of Black Diamond Carbon Flick Locks and they will get the test this week. Lightweight is important to me so I like the lighter metal or carbon shafts..it is the hardware that has been failing. I only use poles in the winter and carry them most of the time.

 

[Kevin Rooney]

... Lightweight is important to me so I like the lighter metal or carbon shafts..it is the hardware that has been failing. I only use poles in the winter and carry them most of the time.

A couple of years ago I treated myself to a set of BD carbon shafts poles with cork grips. I'd had serious lust for a set and as my old BD's were quite banged up, I bought them when www.omcgear.com put them on sale for about $70. I love the poles, but alas ... they weigh exactly the same amount as my basic BD trail poles! I worry a bit about durability, especially in winter, when you need to occasionally whack the bottom of your snowshoes or crampons to knock off accumulated ice/snow, and so far, so good. But, it's unlikely I buy carbon in the future as it's no lighter, and I worry that if I seriously stress them, as in falling on them, they'll break, not bend like aluminium. Time will tell.

 

[Remix]

They use carbon tubes for racing bikes, mountain bikes, airplanes, racing sail boat masts and booms, and cars. its is a pretty damn strong material and forgiving. A friend said that he bent the steel tip on his BD carbons on his AT thru hike. One of the many reasons i don't use pole straps is so i can let go if they get stuck in a hole or something.

yes they will probably snap if you fall on them.. but if you try to bend an AL pole back straight after bending it similarly it will probably crack as well, aluminum is a pretty rigid metal that doesn't like bending stress. You can get replacement parts from BD for just about every piece.

I find they swing nicer than AL poles when i compare them to my GF's

If you want to go very light in the pole dept you need to go to twist lock or fixed length carbon such as Gossomer gear's http://gossamergear.com/trekking/trekking/lt3c-trekking-poles.html 5.6oz for a set 120cm or 8oz/pair for twist lock ones.

I have carbon poles, carbon is strong, and I like carbon but whenever people tell me how great it is to have carbon forks on bikes I always send them to http://cloudbaseimaging.blogspot.com/2008/06/squirrels-and-carbon-forks-dont-mix.html

 

[DougPaul]

As others have noted--carbon is strong but brittle: when it fails, it fails catastrophically. I have also read that scratched carbon is more likely to fail. The scratch causes a stress concentration point that initiates the fracture.

So don't scratch your carbon fiber poles...

Doug

 

[Kevin Rooney]

As others have noted--carbon is strong but brittle: when it fails, it fails catastrophically. I have also read that scratched carbon is more likely to fail. The scratch causes a stress concentration point that initiates the fracture.

So don't scratch your carbon fiber poles...

Doug

That's been a concern of mine. When I lived in the Eastern Sierra, the nature of the granite was such that it was quite sharp, and often crumbly. The shafts take quite a beating. Here in NE, there much less opportunity of that type/frequency of abrasion, but it still exists. As I said in previous post - since there's no weight difference between a quality aluminum pole, and a quality carbon pole ... guess which one I'll buy next time.

To me, carbon poles vs. aluminum poles are a bit like the polypro vs. wool shirts - in the end, there's not much difference in performance, so stick with what works.