Rock Climbing questions

[NYBRAD]

I Agree with Sierra

I agree with Sierra,
I learned the same way, by reading and applying what I had read.
Then eventually started meeting better climbers in the same circles, and then found a few partners that could always use a belay slave.

I also used to go to the easier local crags or ice climbs and watch, many times a group or pair would have a top rope set, and offer a ride while one of their members rested. Study the knots and anchors, and learn about shock loads. Practice, Practice, Practice…………..

Climbing is more than just a sport, it's a lifestyle.

I think there is a big difference between really learning how to climb, and just learning enough to get on the rock safely a few weeks out of the year.

Agreed that a gym is a place to start, but I don’t know if it’s the best place.

 

[Halite]

I do not agree that climbing in a gym is a good start at all. You learn very little that can be allpied to the outdoors, yet you can pick up alot of dangerous habitts. I would buy a few books to learn what you can, then hire a guide to teach you one on one, that is the safest and most efficient way to learn.

What dangerous or bad habits can you pick up in a gym? I agree that climbing outdoors is different from indoor climbing. But not so different that one should stay away from indoor climbing. In a gym, you can develop strength and learn to move efficiently. One of the main differences between indoor and outdoor climbing is route-finding. In the gym, you just follow the colored tape and eliminate off-route climbing holds. Outdoors, they disguise the holds to look like rock. So you are searching for what's available, versus eliminating the obvious holds in the climbing gym that are set for another route.

As others have said, when moving outdoors, a competent guide is essential. The safety aspects of climbing cannot be self-taught. Hanging off a cliff is no place for trial and error learning!

 

[Skyclimber]

We personally were taught by a good friend who happened to be a Rock Climbing Guide, who taught us for free. So we were very fortunate. Starting on the Beer Walls in Chapel Pond, top roping, then worked our way up. We did the Chapel Pond Slab which was great fun. Then when we did the 400' of the Hurricane Crag, multi pitching, that basically ended it for me. It took about two Summers of serious practicing before we did the Crag though. You need to go as often as you can as practice makes "perfect."

 

[Mad Townie]

Whether starting in a gym is good or bad depends on the quality of the instruction, same as for starting with a guide or a friend. I try things in a gym that I wouldn't try as a second on a trad route, and I try things as a second that I would never try on lead.

In a gym you fall a lot--that's kinda the idea. On a top rope, falling is not a great big deal, but you usually hit the rock rather than just falling out into space on a bouncy rope, as in the gym. On lead, you just don't fall, because if you do you fall twice the distance between you and your last piece of protection, and even then you're on a cliff that has natural "features", like chunks of rock that stick out and poke you in places you don't want to be poked.

bobandgeri, I live about a half mile from my avatar, if that tells you anything. My kids and I sometimes go down and climb for an hour or so after dinner (but not nearly often enough).

 

[Woody]

Learn to climb with confidence

My son and I took a three day course in rock climbing from IMCS (IME) in North Conway. Day three was a multi-pitch climb up Cathedral Ledge. Those three days gave us the confidence to be able to set up our own topropes and as well as the basics of using "pro".

After day two of our class we were hooked! I have spent a small fortune on climbing gear since those three days three years ago. The next winter we also took two days of ice climbing lessons from IMCS. Last fall my 16 yr old son lead us up Standard Route on Whitehorse Ledge and he is climbing 5.10 on toprope. I am still struggling to be consistent getting my old butt up 5.8 routes. We have also have some really interesting days on the ice at Frankenstein cliffs, Mount Willey, and Huntington Ravine.

The only trouble with climbing is that it cuts into my hiking. I find I hike more often now in the rain so that I can climb when the rock is dry!

 

[hammerhead]

The Gym in Rutland is pretty nice. The people there are pretty cool, you have to take a 10$ class introduction to climbing. I would call ahead to make sure they don't have it booked for private functions. The couple of times I've dropped in it was booked with kids. Deer's Leap across from Pico is a sick climbing spot, lead and top rope. Jamaica also has some good spots. I've been looking for a climbing partner in the southern VT area. Have fun! Drop (Manchester/Arlington/Bennington/Rutland) Drop me a line if you want to do some climbing.
Greg.

 

[Reekee]

Guides

Guides are a great way to start and to learn the basics from a pro but you'll soon find out it will be very expensive. Get to know some local climbers and if you're a solid belayer many are looking for partners. Read Don Mellor's climbing book it's great info. Go slow, be safe, and enjoy!

 

[sierra]

nybrad I hear you about hanging out at the crags,when I wanted to learn to ice climb I read and practiced, then hung around Frankenstein cliffs until someone walked up to me and asked me if knew how to lead ice? I said heck yeah, then lead him up the standard route, not until walking down did I let him know that was my first lead ever!!!!!
As far as bad habits that can be learned in a gym, to me there are a few but more imporntantly, its a mind set that is learned. In a gym you start right off with a rope above your head, you develope a casual aproach to climbing because there are no consequenses for falling or setting bad pro or anchors, when learning outside on a real cliff, even if your seconding, your leader at least he should be implying evrything you do is crirtical to both your survival.
Thats my 2 cents.

 

[Reekee]

For years I've heard debates over "trad" vs. "sport" and indoor vs out. But in the end it's all for fun and it's just rock-climbing and not a cure for cancer. What ever your method enjoy the sport because after the first 20ft nobody really cares.

 

[mountainfrank]

Don't look down as your climbing the rocks as not to panic of the heights.

Hum... I don't agree, one should rather practice the ability to look down and not panic ! Kind of necessary when:
- abseiling
- downclimbing
- belaying your second from above
- looking where to put your feet to work out a move
- watch your single piece of pro walk out of the crack and fall to the ground (ok time to panic now)

F

 

[charlos]

Im with quack on bouldering
plus it makes you strong like bear!

 

[linehant]

My .02:

- The gym is fine for training, but gym climbing and outdoor climbing are,
IMO, different sports

- If you don't already have a climber in your social set, taking a
one or two day course from EMS, IME, Mountain Guides Alliance,
Chauvin Guides, AMC, etc. etc is a fine introduction to the sport.
You'll learn how to move efficiently on the rock. You'll have a blast
climbing outdoors.

- Climbing from legs / feet is key. A good way to learn to use/trust feet
is to spend some time on slab climbs (such as Whitehorse) where there
are no big honkin' holds to wrap your hands around and use to haul
yourself upwards.

- There ain't nothing quite like sitting on the top of Cannon looking
over Franconia notch while belaying one's partner. The gym
experience isn't even remotely similar. Hire a guide for a one day climb
of Whitehorse or Cathedral and you'll get a sense of the experience.

Climb safe!