Scrambles in New England

[RoySwkr]

The Peak Above the Nubble slide probably pushes third-class, and I don't think you're limiting this to on-trail?

The original post mentions trails, and specifically excludes climbing routes. I assume it also excludes caves, where there are many passages with no risk of falling where you must crawl on your hands

 

[sierra]

That's not quite how I read it, my interpretation is that if most users require more than occasional handholds it counts as Class 3, not that some expert free climber can't do it without hands

For instance while it might be possible to climb the ladder on Hi-Cannon without hands, does anybody do it? On the other 'hand', it's only a short section so maybe doesn't qualify.

Try Benton Sugarloaf (there are notes here about it) and see if you think it's Class 3

Not to nitpik at all, but route classifications are based on the technical difficulty involved over a sustained period, not just a few moves.The ladder on Hi_Cannon which is a great example, yes, I hold the rungs with my hands, but that trail is easy class 2 regardless. Also, one must keep in mind that if 20 novices use thier hands alot and one veteran climber does not, that does not mean the route is class 3 either. If you where to climb ten class 3 routes in CO or CA, then climb the listed routes on this thread, the distinction would be obvious. Hunnington Ravine has a sustained section, actually two, where handholds are key to the climb. Frankly the north slide on Tri. is easy class 2 if you ask me. Ill let others debate now, its just my opinion, having done alot of class 3 routes in different parts of the country, I feel I have a grasp on the rating system. As far as Benton Sugarloaf, dont even know what that is, but you have me curious.

 

[DougPaul]

Not to nitpik at all, but route classifications are based on the technical difficulty involved over a sustained period, not just a few moves.

Not necessarily.

The YDS 5.x ratings are based on the difficulty of the hardest move. However, a long section of sustained 5.x may receive a rating of 5.(x+1) in certain circumstances, such as it being strenuous so that endurance becomes an issue.


Interpretation for the ratings are also subject to local variation, so the same move may receive different ratings at different locations. You may be applying CO or CA standards to the NE. It is also possible that since there aren't as many class 2 and 3 routes in the East than in the West the eastern standards are not as well established as the western standards.

Doug

 

[tomcat32]

Having done Little Spencer a few times I would say it probably would be a II+ or III. Barren Mountain AT in 100 Mile Wilderness brief class II as well as Chairback Mountain on the north end of the Barren Chairback Range. That may even be a short class III, its pretty significant slide you traverse. Come to think of it there are a couple sections of scrambles in the middle of the range. Unless you're backpacking you probably won't see the middle of the range. Tumbledown Loop trail as mentioned also is at least a class II and it can turn into class IV if you accidentally follow one of the climbers paths enroute. The upper reaches of Doubletop coming from the south has some class II or more near the top.

 

[sierra]

Not necessarily.

The YDS 5.x ratings are based on the difficulty of the hardest move. However, a long section of sustained 5.x may receive a rating of 5.(x+1) in certain circumstances, such as it being strenuous so that endurance becomes an issue.


Interpretation for the ratings are also subject to local variation, so the same move may receive different ratings at different locations. You may be applying CO or CA standards to the NE. It is also possible that since there aren't as many class 2 and 3 routes in the East than in the West the eastern standards are not as well established as the western standards.

Doug

I agree with the ratings based on the Yosemite decimal system, one 5.9 move will give a route a 5.9 rating. As far as regional biases, I do think that has some truth to it, as CA class 3 routes tend to be harder then CO class 3 routes. Ratings have always been subject to debate, My opinion just adds to that debate, someone else may rate a climb different then I would. I think at the end of the day, ratings can be helpful when contemplating a route, but ones own personal experience should dictate how they approach any climb regardless of the accuracy of the rating.

 

[Driver8]

what about in MA? Anything significant? I know the Blue Hills and Middlesex Fells have a few very short sections, so I wouldn't really call those "scrambling".

Anything else? How about on Greylock?

I've hiked about half of Greylock's trails and have seen no scrambles yet. I hear that Ragged Mountain, an eastern subpeak of Greylock, is rocky and might be scrambly.

Also in Mass, the M-M Trail up the south end of Mt. Tom has a couple of spots where you might use your hands, but it's not a sustained scramble. Steep, but not a scramble. The Harrington Trail up the west side of Mt. Wachusett has a steep stretch where you're likely to use your hands a time or two, but, as with Tom, not for a longer stretch.

 

[roadtripper]

Thanks for the all the suggestions & help folks! Here is the final list of scrambles I've come up with...it actually equals 50, so perhaps we could call this a new list?!?!? "The 50 Scrambles"?

Rock Scrambles in New England

Now just gotta wait for spring to start doing some of these

- roadtripper

 

[iagreewithjamie]

Valley View Trail in the Belknaps. It's so steep, they took it off of their maps.

Spellman on Monadnock you could knock down from a II+ to a II. Last summer, they reblazed Spellman, and rerouted the one area that involved friction climbing. Now it's steep, but every foot/hand hold is obvious... not like before where you were literally pulling yourself up ledges.

My one beef with the rating is putting N. Tri slide in the same group as Huntington. A fall on one would hurt, whereas a fall on the other could kill. I went up N Tri via the slide... but I have zero desire to do Huntington.

 

[RoySwkr]

Not sure why you have Underhill Trail on Percy (which I didn't find difficult) but don't list Benton Sugarloaf at all

 

[loanshark]

Since there are some closed trails on the list, how about the old Passaconaway slide trail?

 

[TJsName]

Since there are some closed trails on the list, how about the old Passaconaway slide trail?

Hey, that's not completely closed. Looks like it would be quite the ride up from Downes Brooks.

 

[bogorchis]

Did that one years ago, and it was scarey.

 

[surf88]

Great List!
My favorite closed trail: Adams Slide Trail.

The White Arrow on Monadnock has some scrambles on it. As mentioned before, I second The Algonquin Trail on Sandwich,