Silver Star Mountain (8876 ft), North Cascades, WA (May 2-3, 2009)

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leaf

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Weather forecast wasn't looking pretty last weekend, at least for Mt. Rainier and the Mt. Baker areas. So with Doug's suggestion, we headed to Washington Pass to visit Silver Star Mountain. It was me, skimom, mr. doug cbcbd and giggy. The plan was to take a leisurely day and 1/2 and camp out Saturday night around 6,400 ft and climb the mountain the next day.

We pulled to the side of the road around 1-1:30 on Saturday and geared up. The path up to the broad flat ledge at 6,400 ft was pretty obvious. We'd follow to the left of a drainage where we soon found the climbers path. The way up was steep and the snow was soft, so with full packs on, it was slow but steady going. The weather moved in just as we were nearing the camping area and it snowed lightly for most of the night. For the most part, we were socked in, but would get glimpses of the route ahead. From camp, we'd climb a chute up to Burgundy Col between tall rock spires that were the dominant scene around Silver Star Mountain. We were settled in, eating dinner and melting snow by 4:30-5 and getting into some deep conversations about the meaningful lyrics of Cannibal Corpse. And not just because giggy was there.

We all got up around 5:30-6 a.m. to gorgeous skies and amazing views. The rock spires and snow gully up to the col was easy to see. It didn't take too long to eat breakfast and depart. We wore snowshoes all day Saturday and in the morning we wore them up to the chute where all but Doug decided to switch to crampons. The snow was firm for the most part heading up to Burgundy Col. This was probably one of the more tiring parts of the day because footing was difficult at times since rocks were exposed in some places. Once up to the col we were hit by the sun and some seriously nice views. :D

The route from here would take us down the col on a steep pitch, traversing across part of the Silver Star glacier then up to a spur ridge where we'd be on the main body of the glacier and finally get a view of the summit. The traverse across was in some deep-ish snow. Doug did all the initial trail breaking in his snowshoes and the rest of us did the supplemental breaking wearing our crampons. There was talk about jumping down into the bowl (skimom ;)) and riding the nice powder, but knowing that would require walking back up, we (she) decided against that. Doug wished he had his skis.

Once we got up to a smaller col, we headed up a short, narrow spur ridge to a nice little bump for the hell of it. Well, and to also plan our route to the summit. That didn't take long and we started traversing across the main body of the glacier, up and across, up and across. Partway up we dropped some gear. :p The last climb up to the summit col was steep but the snow made great steps. I mean, Doug made great steps.

From the col, it was a few hundred more feet to the rocky summit. The snow covered most of the rocks, which made it alot nicer. Otherwise, the guide book read it was a Class III rock scramble. We dropped our packs. :p The summit was tiny but we squeezed in. We reached the top around 11:30-noon. Doug headed up to the *very* top, but I opted to stay put since it was high on the spicey factor. We needed to down-climb off the summit because it was steep and exposed and unlike lower on the mountain, jumping off and enjoying a ride wasn't an option here.

Amazing place those North Cascades. There's just miles and miles of knarly peaks in every direction. When you're up there it's almost like nothing else exists in the world but mountains and great climbing partners, which, hey.. that's about all I need anyway. :)

I bet you didn't read any of this and just scrolled right down to click on this: ;)
http://leaf.smugmug.com/gallery/8117915_Dkp7x#529269063_eDySq
 
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Nice!!!

Sweet pics Court!! Glad you guys had views and it cleared for you! Wish I could of joined, next time! :D

Doug is a hiking machine!! :eek:
 
Great report Court - thanks for taking me out of the office cubicle for a while to do some virtual hiking! What a beautiful range - I'm so jealous and you all got to camp there too. :cool: Love the pics, especially the ones of your tracks across the traverses and those steep pitches. Nice job guys!
 
Very nice! Not sure what folks see in the North Cascades as opposed to Tecumseh, Owls Head, etc., back here, unless it is the pristine granite spires amidst untracked snow, blue sky, etc. Did not realize that snowshoes were popular out there now. I can see why Doug wished that he had his skis. Were there some avy debris in one of the last chute slides? And, finally, sounds like you left gear in multiple cols on the way up? ::eek:
 
Nice pics as always. Kind of surprised theres only 65. Batteries die? :p
I like #50. Great shot. :)
 
This trip actually worked out pretty nicely considering the tight time frame and the weather we were dealt. Starting with Gig coming out for work and extending his time to climb, and then Dani using her SW voucher from her last trip here (she missed the plane), and Court rounding out the foursome... pretty cool.

Just to add to the story - our original weekend plan was Shuksan's Fisher Chimneys. The weather was not looking very favorable for the Western Cascades, and even for the Eastern peaks, like in the Stuart range. A local friend of mine with extensive Cascade knowledge suggested that the NE corner (Washington Pass area) of the Cascades would be the best spot to catch the rain shadow cast by the mountains from the generally SW systems - Silver Star. This would give us a mellower 2 days and in better weather. Well, it worked.

A few facts about Silver Star - At 8876' it is the tallest peak East of Washington Pass in the North Cascades. It's the 24th highest peak in the (one of the) WA top 100 list. The Silver Star glacier is the largest at that Eastern longitude in the Cascades. It also has an active rock glacier N of it's East ridge. The name comes from a snow feature on it's Western face - pic not mine.

We had pretty good weather both days (no rain, but some snow), I thought ;) But Sunday was pretty stellar.

Camp life - during the 2-3hrs that night we had fog go in/out, snow come and go.
P1070128.jpg

P1070129.jpg

P1070130.jpg


Camp and the Wine spires
P1070139.jpg


View of the Liberty Bell group from camp L-R - S. Early Winter Spire, N. Early Winter Spire, Lexington, Concord, and Liberty.
P1070141.jpg


On the glacier
P1070175.jpg


Climbing last 300'
P1070185.jpg

P1070191.jpg


VFTT
P1070198.jpg


Up and down tracks:
P1070212.jpg


Visitor on the summit!
summit2.jpg


Vid of the glissade from Silver Star col:
http://www.vimeo.com/4521276

All my pics here


Did not realize that snowshoes were popular out there now. I can see why Doug wished that he had his skis. Were there some avy debris in one of the last chute slides? And, finally, sounds like you left gear in multiple cols on the way up?
Ah yes... the North Cascades. I'm liking them more and more!
Don't know if snowshoes are more popular but I've seen plenty of climbers out here using them at least for approaches. Few use skis. I was kinda lazy to take mine off so kept them on until they became annoying and kicking straight in steps worked best.

Reference map
As far as slides, we saw old debris (Court has some pics) from what looked like wet slides on the SW aspect gullies West of Burgundy Col (B), NE from camp (A). The Burgundy col slide had less and smaller ice chunks and felt Abol slide-like, according to Gig.
On the Northern aspect of the Southern ridge (E) of the cirque where we camped we saw a large crown under a rock band. This ridge was corniced to the North so I figured maybe some windloading, maybe a broken cornice or rock trigger and right near the weakness near rocks did it...
We saw no evidence of slides on the glacier side or the peak. We met two guys who climbed it on Saturday, the much warmer of the two days, and they didn't mention any slide activity.

And the gear... we left stuff all over: Poles here, some snowshoes and climbing gear there, and left our full packs at Silver Star col, with 300' to the summit. It was close, but we made it out OK!

Thanks for coming out guys!
 
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Great report courtney - looking at the forecast prior, it looked like I was in for 4 days of "suck" - and since I am a "half empty glass" type of fellow, I was not too optomistic - when we went into the tent that night and even less when I woke about 3am to what sounded like heavy snow. But when I woke to blue sky to the west, I was up in spirits for sure. :D

I was happy to get this one in. Def a cool part of the cascades. Doug and I did the mileage - 3.5 to summit - so 7 miles r/t. sure felt like more than that:eek: It took us about 4 hours to go less than 2 miles to the summit from camp. This is nothing to be ashamed of - its just the cascades man -a mile is "different" . :eek:

Looking at the pix - I realize I forgot to fasten my sleep mat straps on my pack - they were hangin' anywhere - why didn't anyone tell me that??? :p

great couple of days

Doug and I attempted a peak near near snoqualmie (sp??) pass on monday, but it wasn't to be, we bailed after about 1000 ft for a few reasons - and then snowshoed a bit near the Tooth. Then weather really moved in and soaked us - so it was good we bailed and stayed low.

Thanks Doug for coming up with those suggestions - it worked perfect and putting me up for a couple nights when weather was "suck".

well get shuskan next time.

killer couple of days on silver star. It was steep on the glaicer, but the powder snow really meant anyone wasn't going anywhere if a fall happened.

Coming down it was a toss up of to wear snowshoes or not. If you wore them, you slid cuz it was wet, soft snow and pretty darn steep. I fell and smacked my knee and decided to loose the snowshoes - I was postholoing big time (thigh deep at times) - but it seemed safer for me. Once terrain moderated, I put them back on.

Dr D - its still very early season out there and snow is really deep and since they opened that road 2 weeks ago?? These peaks (from doug told me) are pretty much off limits in winter - nobody does them. Literally nobody. There is no "winter list" - not happening due to no access. So, all rotten very deep spring snow until we got to maybe 6K. Had this been a 5 or 6 mile approach, not so sure we would have made it with the time we had.

Baker had an additional 6 miles approach due to road being snowed in. But like court said - while it would have been great to get on rainier or baker, the weather wasn't looking great for that - and I have no desire to be on either of those peaks in bad weather.:eek:
 
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Good stuff! I really like that Liberty Bell group shot; Early Winters was a name taken by an outdoor gear manufacturer in Seattle way back, but not sure if they are still around?

Tough OT loss by B's tonight, gig.
 
Sweet! It's awesome to live vicariously through wonderful adventures like this one. Great job, gang!
 
looks like a great place to ride/ski.
i would have not liked having to hike down!
awesome photos. stinks that dani had to be there to ruin the hike!:D
 
Nice trip report Court. I'm glad the weather worked out for you guys and you didn't end up needing to pawn your ice axe to pay off losses in Vegas ;)

I especially enjoyed seeing the pics of the little yellow car on it's way to the moutains and of course picture #61. I was wondering thinking about that as I went through the shots. I'm guessing based on doug's comments that people don't skin so I'm guess people must pack their boards up.

And don't worry I picked up the slack for you guys back here and had your share of the maragritas.....
 
I especially enjoyed seeing the pics of the little yellow car on it's way to the moutains and of course picture #61. I was wondering thinking about that as I went through the shots. I'm guessing based on doug's comments that people don't skin so I'm guess people must pack their boards up.
;) :D
Nah, my comments were just for the climbing community. Many skiers out here have AT setups and there are also lots of splitboarders. During the season at Alpental it seemed like 1/10 had an AT or Tele setup. On Sat, our approach day, there were some skiers who did the Silver Star glacier tour - the approach for this tour is generally from Silver Star creek, directly North of the glacier. We saw their Ss on the glacier. Here is a report from the other side ;)
http://www.turns-all-year.com/skiing_snowboarding/trip_reports/index.php?topic=13227.0


And apparently this area is one used by the North Cascades Heli-skiing during the winter:
http://www.pbase.com/nolock/image/40167311
http://www.pbase.com/nolock/image/40167331
 
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looks like a great place to ride/ski.
i would have not liked having to hike down!
awesome photos. stinks that dani had to be there to ruin the hike!:D

whatever !!

Yeah, so, see? I really do hike!

Oh, and post, too... I'm posting right now!

crap, boss coming... gotta go

Thanks for an awesome weekend guys !!
 
Now that's what we like to see!!!!!!!

;) :D
Nah, my comments were just for the climbing community. Many skiers out here have AT setups and there are also lots of splitboarders. During the season at Alpental it seemed like 1/10 had an AT or Tele setup. On Sat, our approach day, there were some skiers who did the Silver Star glacier tour - the approach for this tour is generally from Silver Star creek, directly North of the glacier. We saw their Ss on the glacier. Here is a report from the other side ;)
http://www.turns-all-year.com/skiing_snowboarding/trip_reports/index.php?topic=13227.0


And apparently this area is one used by the North Cascades Heli-skiing during the winter:
http://www.pbase.com/nolock/image/40167311
http://www.pbase.com/nolock/image/40167331
 
Oh awesome !

I like the up and down tracks shot. It's like being there !

All the white stuff in the pics makes me miss winter already. I have to wait until JULY to feel the nice crunch of crampons on a snowfield :(

Good job to all.
 
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