Small snowshoe repair in or near Lincoln, NH

[Mohamed Ellozy]

I have a small problem with my Tubbs snowshoes, and since a picture is worth a thousand words ...

In the Boston area I would go to Burt at Moor and Mountain. Any idea where I could get it fixed in or near the Lincoln, NH, area?

Thanks!

 

[Tom Rankin]

I have a small problem with my Tubbs snowshoes, and since a picture is worth a thousand words ...

In the Boston area I would go to Burt at Moor and Mountain. Any idea where I could get it fixed in or near the Lincoln, NH, area?

Thanks!

You might be able to get a washer, nut and bolt at a hardware store pretty cheap to fix that. Or several wrappings of wire or zip ties for a 'field' repair.

 

[Mohamed Ellozy]

Thanks first to cascader (not a member so he emailed me) and Tom I have fixed it at the hardware store. Total cost 86 cents for parts (one bolt, one nut, one washer) plus zero for labor!

 

[Waumbek]

Nice job! For future reference on repairs beyond DIY, try the Franconia Sport Shop in greater downtown Franconia. 823-5241. I believe they still rent snowshoes, and they have a bike repair shop, so they may also do snowshoe fixes.

 

[Chip]

Thanks first to cascader (not a member so he emailed me) and Tom I have fixed it at the hardware store. Total cost 86 cents for parts (one bolt, one nut, one washer) plus zero for labor!

fwiw, i'd use a couple small washers on either side to help prevent your fix from pulling through the hole. nice job though. i suppose an auto repair/sheet metal shop/buddy could pop rivet it for you, too.

 

[DougPaul]

Thanks first to cascader (not a member so he emailed me) and Tom I have fixed it at the hardware store. Total cost 86 cents for parts (one bolt, one nut, one washer) plus zero for labor!

I suggest that you add a lockwasher or (probably better yet) some loctite.

Might even be worth carrying a spare set of hardware...

EDIT: I second Chip's suggestion of bigger washers. Probably worth matching the washer size on the rivet shown to the left in the pic.

Doug

 

[Quietman]

I have the same issue on one of my snowshoes, and had 2 concerns.

The original rivet had smooth sides. Will the rough sides of a screw wear down the decking material, or is tight enough that there is no movement?

Also, wouldn't you want to use a larger washer similar to the original one?

Thanks!!

 

[Jay H]

I went and replaced all the rivets holding my crampon to the binding of my northern lights with bolts, washers and nylok nuts (and locktite!). I have found that when rivets fail, a lot of times they aren't field repairable, ie. you can't remove them and replace them with bolts and nuts (that you do carry, right???? ) because the old rivets have failed just to the point where the rim breaks off and the rivet slides through where its not supposed to. I don't carry a dremel or drill with me to remove the old rivet.

A nut and bolt, seems to me, to be more field serviceble at the expense of a few grams. Probably doesn't make sense for the tubbs as I can see a whole lotta rivets on that design, not just in your decking... But something to consider...

I figure a nut and bolt has some chance of being removed with locking pliers...

Jay

 

[slevasse]

I had the same problem with my Tubbs. I lost probably 4 rivets and in some cases the strap to hold the decking to the rails. I just put new rivets in with washers and they have been going fine.

 

[erugs]

Do people sharpen their snowshoe crampons? And if so, what is recommended?

 

[DougPaul]

Do people sharpen their snowshoe crampons? And if so, what is recommended?

Only if they plan on ice climbing in their snowshoes...

Sorry, couldn't resist.


I suspect that very few sharpen their snowshoe crampons. I never have.

Doug

 

[Kevin Rooney]

Do people sharpen their snowshoe crampons? And if so, what is recommended?

Ellen -

I've replaced the aluminum crampons on my Tubbs with their Talon stainless steel crampons. The Talons are a bit scratched, but other than what amounts to cosmetic damage, they're practically indestructible.

That doesn't answer your question, though.

 

[spider solo]

I sharpen mine depending if I think I might need the crampon feature on a particular hike.
Some snowshoes I don't mind if they get a bit dull.
Sometimes I don't want them to "crippy" esp. on a downhill..
but if I think I'm going to be on crusty snow and what not I try to sharpen them.
Mostly I use a medium hand file, taking off any burrs and folllowing whatever contours they have.
Aluminum snowshoe crampons will round over easily, but steel snowshoe crampons I tend to sharpenn up a bit from time to time.

 

[Hobbitling]

I was told (somewhere) not to use a dremel or other high speed gadgetry to sharpen crampons or snowshoes. The heat it generates can damage the temper of the metal and make it soft, and more likely to get dull quicker.

use a file. probably two files, a coarse and a fine. they're cheap.

 

[Lawn Sale]

I have repaired many different snowshoes, but I use something called a "post and screw", which can be found at almost any hardware store. Both ends have a slotted section so they can be installed with a screwdriver, but there is no extra post sticking down, so it's a clean application. They also come in many different non-corrosive metals and I have never had one back out on its own. I have had some of these holding the binding straps on my Atlas 1025's and Tubbs Pathfinder 36" for many years now with no problem, and usually keep 4-5 pairs in my pack in case I need them on the trail. They also come in varying diameters as well as lengths.

 

[DougPaul]

I was told (somewhere) not to use a dremel or other high speed gadgetry to sharpen crampons or snowshoes. The heat it generates can damage the temper of the metal and make it soft, and more likely to get dull quicker.

Correct. Once you have destroyed the temper of the metal, it has to be heat treated properly to restore it. (No I don't know the details of how to do it.)

use a file. probably two files, a coarse and a fine. they're cheap.

Use a (flat) mill file (also called a single-cut file). A medium is fine. You don't want super sharp points--they bend over and snag in clothing. (It is also a good idea to deburr to prevent snagging in clothing.)

Doug

 

[RoySwkr]

Thanks first to cascader (not a member so he emailed me) and Tom I have fixed it at the hardware store. Total cost 86 cents for parts (one bolt, one nut, one washer) plus zero for labor!

I have a pop rivet gun and was going to offer to fix it free next time you went by. Pop rivets are sure a lot easier than the brass rivets I used to use on leather bindings.