stabilicers vs. crampons

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Well, I was carrying crampons yesterday hiking in the Whites, never used them, but I could have used stabilicers. Coming down the steep ledges of South Balface just below the cut-off, I found the rocks mostly bare, except for dangerous patches of black ice. Ice just thin enough to be dangerous, but barely noticeable. With the ledges 90% bare rock, there was no point wearing crampons, but stabilicers would have been helpful. I fell hard twice and slid another time very close to going over a substantial drop that might have cracked open even my hard head. Higher up the rocks were snow covered making the hiking easier as it would have been if the ice were thick enough for crampons. Crampons are not just useful on ice. Crampons work great on hard packed snow. I have seen crampons working on steep snow covered terrain where snowshoes were slipping backwards. (Bushwacking up Vose Spur) IMO crampons are essential gear for winter hiking in the Whites. There not just for ice any more! If you do keep your crampons starped to the side of your pack in a bag make sure the other side of your pack has something to counterbalance the weight. Another solution is to carry them in the center of your pack or one on each side.
Being someone who usually falls, I usuallly think about where the points will be pointing when I fall. By coincidence, the crampons stow better when the points are pointing towards each other, ie. have the bottoms facing each other when you put them in the bag. That makes the points less threatening.
Note, the ad for Kaholas (sp???) shows them straped on "approach" shoes, ie. low cuts or "trail runners". They are useful for early spring hikes or this time of year when you are wondering whether it is worthwhile to carry the extra weight. K's are quite light. BTW the morning temp in the Baldface shelter which is not very high up was +2 at dawn, near 20 at 7:30 in the morning sun. The wind was howling in at about 20 knots, I'ld guess. Bring on the winter! I had been heading for Carter Dome, but a snow squall changed that idea. With blue skies on both sides a snow squall just blew through the notch with the west wind at about noon, just when I had planned to be there. Phew!
 
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I made my crampon bag out of an old cassette tape case. I lined the inside with some flexible hard plastic so the crampons would not poke through and it worked fine. I also put a daisy chain on it so I wouldn't have to unstrap the bag to get the crampons out.

Some rubber stoppers from the hardware store pushed onto the points would work well to stop them from poking through.

But, the rubber protectors are only $8 from most places, so they're cheap enough.
 
I carry stabilicers & crampons most of the winter. I have found that my crampon use has been cut down by 80%. There are times when you just need crampons...when ascending very steep, hard ice and, even more importantly, when desceding hard ice.

Stabilicers are perfect for varied conditions. They are great for slippery hard packed trails, icy river crossings, mixed routes, slippery rocks. They provide 16 points of contact and when sharp provide great traction. I have used then on water ice (on sections that were not very steep) with excellent traction.They are much kinder to my feet...I have better balance on rock...I put fewer holes in my over pants.

As much as I think postively about stabilicers,I would never leave my crampons at home. The secret is to use the right tool at the right time (at times...a lot could depend on that).

As for crampon points....I came up with an inexpensive solution for them a while ago. I bought some flexible PVC tubing that is a diameter that will wedge on to the points (less than $2). I cut a section of tubing for each point that is .5 inches longer than the point. I put a hole in the top of each section and thread them on to a loop of string (this keeps them all together). This method adds virtually no weight....works well...is cheap. You can buy crampon point covers which cost more...weigh more...and work no better.
 
rambler said:
Crampons are not just useful on ice.
Crampons have always been used on ice, verglas (black ice), crusty snow, and hard snow. Also as needed on rock in mixed conditions.

On rock, try to put the crampons down flat to maximize friction and gently minimize damage to the points. Front points can be used on thin edges.

Doug
 
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anyone know where i can pick up a good crampon bag? i'd rather have them in my bad not shredding anything compared to leaving them on the outside and poking at my arms as i walk.
 
bintrepidhiker said:
anyone know where i can pick up a good crampon bag? i'd rather have them in my bad not shredding anything compared to leaving them on the outside and poking at my arms as i walk.


I've use the following Petzl crampon bag for a few years now.

Crampon Bag

It's extremely durable and I've never had a problem with my crampon points damaging any other gear while in my pack. I face the points toward each other with the crampons aligned front-to-back.


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- Bill
 
I wish someone would come out with full size crampons with points only a half inch long, or stabilicers with slightly longer sharper points(probably would be better and cheaper than the crampons), for these hard to deal with 'november ice' conditions. Going back and forth from the ice to the rocks 50 times on a hike, this would be a perfect solution. Entrepreneurs, where are you?
 
hikerfast said:
I wish someone would come out with full size crampons with points only a half inch long,
They're called old crampons... :)

Wear on the rocks and resharpenings tend to shorten them.

Or, of course, you can just file them down to accelerate the process.

BTW, only use a hand file--a grinder can overheat and destroy the temper of the metal.

Doug
 
Couple more observation on point (sorry).

Hiked with four others on moderate hike yesterday with light ice conditions from 2800 to 3000 on Tumbledown in Weld, ME. Two of our party had Yaktraks. These are unsafe even hiking over moderate terrain, IMO. Twice they slipped off when attemping gentle angles of about 10 degrees. Both pairs broke on the hike. Better off in the parking lot.

Pat's Stabilicer worked wonderfully with the following caviats: When going up on angled ice, it is important to keep your heel down such that all the contact points engage the ice if you need maximum traction, unlike hinged crampons where the front points engage when you lift your heel. Also, I would be concerned about a traverse over smooth rock or ice with these things for the same reason.
 
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