Team Dom attempts Denali May 21 - June 10th

[Woody]

Thanks for the update, Chinooktrail. Hope they get the battery situation fixed.

 

[chinooktrail]

I spoke with Team Dom last night, they were still camped at 10,500'.

Along with a LOT of other climbing groups, including the 'singing Italian's' whom they have of course befriended.

The winds above 13,000' have been too strong to safely travel higher, so a lot of groups took a much deserved rest day.

The plan for today is to climb to 13,500' and leave supplies, then back down to 10'500' to camp. As with everything in Alaska, it all depends on the weather.

They are all in good spirits, and enjoying their time on the glacier.

The phone situation is still not great, it cut out after a few minutes...

The weather acording to NOAA is:

...7,000 FT TO 14,000 FT...
...WIND SPEEDS LESS THAN 20 MPH ARE NOT INCLUDED...
.SUNDAY NIGHT...MOSTLY CLOUDY. PERIODS OF SNOW. ACCUMULATION LESS
THAN 6 INCHES.
LOW AT 14,000 FT...10 BELOW.
.MONDAY...MOSTLY CLOUDY. PERIODS OF SNOW. ACCUMULATION LESS THAN
6 INCHES.
HIGH AT 14,000 FT...ZERO.

...ABOVE 14,000 FT...
.SUNDAY NIGHT...MOSTLY CLOUDY.
LOW AT 17,000 FT...20 BELOW.
WINDS FROM 17,000 FT TO THE SUMMIT...SOUTHWEST 20 TO 40 MPH.
.MONDAY...MOSTLY CLOUDY.
HIGH AT 17,000 FT...10 BELOW.
WINDS FROM 17,000 FT TO THE SUMMIT...SOUTHWEST 20 TO 40 MPH.
.OUTLOOK TUESDAY THROUGH THURSDAY...
PERIODS OF SNOW. WINDS TURNING WEST MONDAY NIGHT...INCREASING TO 40
TO 60 MPH BY TUESDAY MORNING. WEST WINDS 40 TO 60 MPH TUESDAY
AFTERNOON THROUGH THURSDAY.

So getting above 14,000 looks a little sketchy for now.

Good time to work on improving that chess game...

Still hoping for clear skies and low winds for the team!

 

[chinooktrail]

OH, I forgot to mention, Team Dom also watched an avalanche and said it was just amazing!

Fortunately they were far away, and they said it was like watching it in slow motion.

Let's hope that it was in an unoccupied area.

 

[giggy]

Cool - keep the updates coming - I have been out of the loop in ireland for the past 3 weekends no web access until today - was wondering how they werre getting on.

If they get the weather - I would bet they will all summit and I really hope they do it.

man wish I was there with 'em...

 

[Steve-o]

Cool - keep the updates coming - I have been out of the loop in ireland for the past 3 weekends no web access until today - was wondering how they werre getting on.

If they get the weather - I would bet they will all summit and I really hope they do it.

man wish I was there with 'em...

Likewise. Very anxious to hear how they're doing. Thanks!
Welcome back giggy. I trust you had a couple pints on holiday!

 

[chinooktrail]

Hey Giggy, welcome back!

No word yesterday from the team, but the weather forecast from NOAA:

...7,000 FT TO 14,000 FT...
...WIND SPEEDS LESS THAN 20 MPH ARE NOT INCLUDED...
.MONDAY NIGHT...PARTLY CLOUDY.
LOW AT 14,000 FT...10 BELOW.
.TUESDAY...MOSTLY CLOUDY.
HIGH AT 14,000 FT...20.

...ABOVE 14,000 FT...
.MONDAY NIGHT...PARTLY CLOUDY.
LOW AT 17,000 FT...20 BELOW.
WINDS FROM 17,000 FT TO THE SUMMIT...SOUTHWEST 25 TO 40 MPH.
.TUESDAY...MOSTLY CLOUDY.
HIGH AT 17,000 FT...5 BELOW.
WINDS FROM 17,000 FT TO THE SUMMIT...WEST 25 TO 40 MPH.
.OUTLOOK WEDNESDAY THROUGH FRIDAY...
MOSTLY CLOUDY. WEST WINDS 25 TO 40 MPH WEDNESDAY...INCREASING TO
40 TO 60 MPH WEDNESDAY NIGHT AND CONTINUING THROUGH THURSDAY.
NORTHWEST WINDS 15 TO 30 MPH THURSDAY NIGHT AND FRIDAY.

Sounds like they won't be headed above 14,500' until Thursday evening.

With any luck they will fix the phone battery/charging problem.

Sounds like they will be coming back able to sing a few songs in Italian!
Sweet!

 

[Mad Townie]

At least they're getting plenty of time to acclimatize!

Good luck to the team and thanks for the updates, Chinooktrail.

 

[Maddy]

Yes..thanks for posting.
Looking forward to more reports on the summit bid.
I just love Denali.
Best wishes to all!

 

[chinooktrail]

Ok, just got a call from Team Dom.

They are at 11,200 right now, they did get up to 13,500 and dropped of some of the gear yesterday. The weather is clear, but COLD!!!

Today the plan is to hike up to 14,200 and camp tonight, then go down to 13,500 and retrieve gear tomorrow.

Of course, with everything, it ALL depends on the weather.

Last night they camped next to the tent of the 2 missing Japanese climbers. They said it had caved in, and the rangers were going through it. Not a good sign. Sobering to say the least...

Makes you remember where you are, and that there are dangers and consequences to your actions.

They also said they are camped next to a team from Spain, who get up singing and go to 'tent' singing, and that it is really great for morale.

They sound like they are all in great spirits, and enjoying being out there.

I will also keep the Japanese climbers and their loved ones in my thoughts, as well as Team Dom and Neil and his family...

Will post again as soon as I learn more.

Sat phone is still cutting out without warning, so never sure when to expect a call...

 

[leaf]

I echo thanks for keeping us updated.

Alpine Ascents has a good cybercast website for their teams on the mountains. I usually check it to see what the conditions and weather is like up there. Here's the link if anyone is interested:
Alpine Ascents Denali Cybercast

 

[Chip]

I didn't see it mentioned: Does Mats have his Spot Tracker thing with him ?

 

[chinooktrail]

I believe he lost it about 15 minutes into the trip he purchased it for...

Not sure if he replaced it, but will find out for sure when they call next.

 

[cbcbd]

I believe he lost it about 15 minutes into the trip he purchased it for...

Not sure if he replaced it, but will find out for sure when they call next.

Yeah, don't you hate when you lose your tracker... and there is no way of tracking it down?

 

[WinterWarlock]

Yeah, don't you hate when you lose your tracker... and there is no way of tracking it down?

Aww - that's just not right.

 

[Dr. Dasypodidae]

I didn't see it mentioned: Does Mats have his Spot Tracker thing with him ?

I believe that he lost it on South Tripyramid about half way through his NH48 backpack last September, but apparently its batteries died, so could not be located.

Sleeping at 14,400 camp tonight after only five days on the mountain is moving!

 

[Chip]

I believe that he lost it on South Tripyramid about half way through his NH48 backpack last September, but apparently its batteries died, so could not be located.

Ironic

Sleeping at 14,400 camp tonight after only five days on the mountain is moving!

14,400 is Rainier's summit ele. I just finished packing.

 

[SherpaKroto]

Christine: thanks so much for the updates! The Bluffs have a vested interest in this team!

Chip: they still have 10-11 feet to go to be above Rainier. Lightweights Good Luck out there!

 

[chinooktrail]

Ok, just heard from Team Dom, and the kids are alright!

They are camping at 14,200 tonight having scored a wonderful camping spot they have named 'The Fortress'. Sounds cozy...

They had gathered and ferried all of the gear from 13,200 and were setteling into their new home, getting the stoves lit for some well deserved grub.

The team seem to still be in very high spirits, and sounds very strong, and just a little cold.

The skies were reported to be clear and blue and beautiful.

They think they have worked out the bugs with the phone, so I am sure they will all be calling loved ones tonight to check in!

They had not yet decided on a game plan for tomorrow, so to all their loyal followers, you will have to tune in again tomorrow or Friday, or Saturday... I don't control the weather, or the Satelite phone!

Wishing for low winds, clear skies and perfect temps!

 

[Dr. Dasypodidae]

Fantastic! Less than a week on the mountain and they are in position for an acclimatization hike up to 16 or 17 k. Hope that the weather holds.

 

[Abster]

Great Updates!

Thank you for keeping us updated