Trail Tools

[roadtripper]

Hello Hello,

I'm trying to learn the basics of which hand tools are most useful for trail maintenance. Here are the tools I'm partially familiar with so far. They seem to be essential to trail maintenance from all that I can tell:

(1) Folding pruning saw (http://static-americas.fiskars.com/...grip-R-Folding-Pruning-Saw-8_product_main.jpg)
(2) Loppers (https://www.rittenhouse.ca/content/images/big/p160-91.jpg)
(3) Hand pruner (http://www.smartdesignworldwide.com/xmg/hero/OXO_HandPruners_inHand_740x500.jpg)
(4) Hatchet/Small Axe (http://www.snowandnealley.com/products/axes/images/PenobscotBayKindlingAxe.jpg)
(5) Bow saw (http://t0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQnATm12c7_1htwaxp4G6ahvprDugQbdzDGqbjKb9ynV0pG_f8q&t=1
(6) Fire Rake (http://www.benmeadows.com/images/xl/Fire-Rake-BEN-_i_lbw170604.jpg)
(7) Chainsaw

Are there any tools missing from the list above that you consider very helpful for trail maintenance? How about these ones? Do you use any of these often for maintenance?

- Swizzle Stick (weed cutter)? (http://www.americantrails.org/i/tools/brushcut.jpg)
- Cutter or Pick Mattock? (http://www.northerntool.com/images/product/images/119925_lg.jpg)
- Hazel/Adze Hoe? (http://www.benmeadows.com/images/xl/Adze-Hoe-BEN-_i_bmw170602.jpg)
- Brush/Clearing Axe? (http://toolmonger.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/07/Clearing Ax.jpg)
- Pulaski? (http://www.vmqca.qc.ca/encan/photos/PulaskiNupla.jpg)
- Machete? (http://cdn.smosh.com/smosh-pit/082010/machete-poster.jpg)

Also, anyone know any brands that are top notch for any of the following?

Thanks!

 

[RoySwkr]

The tool I use the most is either a hand pruner or loppers, if there is anyone who doesn't agree I bet their trail isn't cleared 4' wide (sorry Jack, Mt Clay Loop is an exception

I carry a folding saw and use it to cut blowdowns or branches several times per day

The waterbars on my section cannot be cleared with a fire rake, I use a round point shovel but a mattock or hazel hoe might also work

I am not allowed to use a chainsaw, so for large blowdowns I either use a 36" bow saw or full-size axe or yell for help

A swizzle stick or maybe a machete would be the most efficient tool to clear some sections of raspberries, but rather than lug one 5 miles I just use the pruners and take longer

Wrenches are needed to install/remove signs

And every few years, a paintbrush

 

[NewHampshire]

My three most used tools:

Loppers, saws, hazel hoe.

A hatchet is redundant if you have a good bow saw. In reality I was taught that if you DO go with a hatchet make sure it is a larger two handed version. A one handed version can be dangerous to wield. 2 Hands give you more control. But again, a bow saw is much quicker and will probably work much faster than a small hatchet. A decent sized bow saw will cut a tree about half it's blade length. So if you have an 18" bow saw you can handle trees up to 9 inches in diameter. Sure a hatchet can handle trees of ANY size, but you have to ask yourself....are you willing to spend an hour whacking away with a hatchet on a 12" diameter tree? At that point go with a full blown Axe. As with Roy, being an AMC adopter I would have to take a qualification course to use a chainsaw. No idea what the USFS standards are (and both USFS and AMC I know can't use them in the "Big Dubbya" Wildernesses).

Hand pruners are also kind of redundant. A pair of loppers are just hand pruners with long handles.

Never used a fire rake and don't know any adopters that do (not to say there are those who do).

Hazel hoes are an important tool for working your water bars. Depending on how many you have and what kind they are you MIGHT be able to save a little money and just get a simple garden hoe and cut down the handle.

Other than the hazel hoe everything on your secondary list (swizzle stick, pick maddock, clearing Axe, Pulaski and machete) I pretty much never use. The machete most of all (I view it as kind of unprofessional since it is meant more for hacking than for "considered" brush trimming).

Hope this helps.

Brian

 

[TEO]

?!

Loppers
Bow saw (I actually prefer a wood saw, but that's probably because I've got a cheap bow saw.)
Hoe

For basic trail maintenance, what else do you need?

P.s. Compound action loppers can do some serious work.

 

[DSettahr]

Cross-cut saw. Works just as well as a chainsaw (when used correctly), and it is allowed in places where chainsaws are not.

Adzes are necessary mainly for bog bridging, to flatten a surface of natural timber.

Mattocks are really nice for grading the surfaces of trails, and for side hilling.

 

[wardsgirl]

I bring hand pruners, a bowsaw, and a garden hoe every time.

 

[DSettahr]

Also, a Rock Bar. Used for gaining leverage to move those pesky boulders, either in place onto a trail (as in a rock retaining wall or stone stair case) or out of the way.

 

[DougPaul]

We most often use a mattock, folding bow saw (Sven), and/or long-handled loppers. (Mass AT.)

The mattock is very useful for working on the treadway and waterbars. It can be used to pry up to medium sized rocks. (It is a bit heavy and we only carry it if we expect to need it.)

The folding bow saw is good for up to ~8inch logs and the long-handled loppers are good for up to ~1.5 inch branches.


We used to occasionally carry my friend's ~3ft 2-person saw for the bigger logs. However, she is now chain-saw qualified which is much faster at cutting through the bigger stuff (but heavier to carry...). We usually only carry these if we know that there is something big enough to require them.

If we find something bigger than 1-1.5 feet or too dangerous for us to clear, we leave it for the professional crews.

Doug

 

[peakbagger]

I am a fan of a "sawvivor" folding saw. I also use a swedish brush ax for clearing heavilly overgrown trails or ice storm damage, where I need to move a lot larger size trees. It can be used one or two handed and weighs less than an equivalent ax. Also a lot easier to keep sharp. It is less usefull for light trail maintenance as it can leave "punji sticks" I.E. sharp pointed stubs. For those situations, its hard to beat an anvil pruner.

 

[DSettahr]

However, she is now chain-saw qualified which is much faster at cutting through the bigger stuff (but heavier to carry...).

Chainsaws are easier, but they aren't faster (at least with a well-trained crosscut crew).

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y5xtr25oSq4 (Skip to 0:40 for the action)

 

[David Metsky]

Chainsaws are easier, but they aren't faster (at least with a well-trained crosscut crew).

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y5xtr25oSq4 (Skip to 0:40 for the action)

Nah, that's a tiny chainsaw. Try the unlimited class saws (motorcycle engines attached to a HUGE bar and chain) and they eat cross cut saws for lunch. That cross cut is also a racing saw, not suitable for field use.

 

[DSettahr]

Nah, that's a tiny chainsaw. Try the unlimited class saws (motorcycle engines attached to a HUGE bar and chain) and they eat cross cut saws for lunch. That cross cut is also a racing saw, not suitable for field use.

And a chainsaw with a motorcycle engine is?

The point still stands that chainsaws, while they might allow one to work more efficiently, really aren't necessary for trail work. You can do everything you can do with a chainsaw with a crosscut.

 

[Fisher Cat]

I carry loppers, adze, axe, and on occasion, a hand saw. Standard, no questions asked. This does not include planned blazing trips, when the load adds up a bit more.

Here are the dealers I have bought from in the past. All these years of trailwork and I still have some of my original tools.

For an axe, I roll with the OX 10 and/or OX 15. They are pricey, but oh so worth it. You'll have to scroll down the page:

http://www.samstagsales.com/ox-head.htm

I have bought my adze from here. I usually buy an extra handle just in case. Once again, you'll have to scroll down the page:

http://www.rrtoolsnsolutions.com/catalog/TrackTools1.asp#3

For a pruning saw, I carry this:

http://www.stihlusa.com/handtools/pruning-saws.html

One can always buy different brands of tools, that in most cases are cheaper. Problem is, you get what you pay for, breakdowns and failure are common. I would rather get better quality and keep it for several years. You can always procure better quality items one at a time over the course of several years.

Never used a swizzle stick, pulaski, or pick mattock. It just depends on the terrain you adopt. I do possess those items as well as a root axe, machete, etc. etc, just never had to use them for trailwork.

 

[DougPaul]

I am a fan of a "sawvivor" folding saw.

I tried a Sawvivor folding bow saw--the frame was so flimsy that it flexed and the blade wouldn't stay straight. The Sven folding is much sturdier, and IMO is much more useful. Get the 21 inch version http://www.rei.com/product/404013, not the smaller one.

Doug

 

[DougPaul]

However, she is now chain-saw qualified which is much faster at cutting through the bigger stuff (but heavier to carry...).

Chainsaws are easier, but they aren't faster (at least with a well-trained crosscut crew).

I can't speak for a well-trained crosscut crew, but she is certainly faster with the chainsaw than we are with the 3-foot 2-person saw.

Doug

 

[DougPaul]

I should add hedge shears to the list--they can be handy for clearing blackberry bushes etc. eg: http://www.acehardware.com/family/index.jsp?categoryId=1260277&cp=2568444.2598674.2601434

Wear padded gloves--your wrists will thank you at the end of the day...

Doug

 

[cooperhill]

Basically, depending on the work you are doing, you need a digging tool, a clipping tool (or two) and a cutting tool (saw or axe (if trained) or both)). USFS requires FS adopters to be trained in axe use.

Can we make a distinction here between basic maintenance and trail construction? Pick Mattocks and Rock Bars are surely more suited to trail construction though some people do take mattocks on maintenance trips.

I like the Rogue hoe. I have two of them. It suits my style of digging drainages. It is essentially a hazel hoe but with a pick on the other end. It is somewhat sharp and can be sharpened. I have 90+ drainages on my trail so I have put it to the test.

http://www.roguehoe.com/firefighters/55a.html

Other tools which I bring, own, or borrow from the USFS cache include: large bow saw, loppers, and hand pruners.

I own and carry axes (too many to mention) as well. I prefer the axe over the saw for most blowdowns. I prefer the single bit to the double bit. As others have said, if you can't handle it or if it's a beech tree, leave it. Or just clear branches so folks can get over it.

Pulaski is neither a great cutting tool or a great digging tool. I'd leave it out of your arsenal.

 

[MadRiver]

I usually carry a hand pruner, loppers, rake, and a hazel hoe. If it is the first visit in the spring I will just carry the hazel hoe to clean out the waterbars. Once all the waterbars are clean and sculpted, I will then only carry the hand pruner, loppers, and a small garden rake on my return trips. The rake works well if I’m just cleaning out leaves and twigs that have filled the waterbar since my last visit. I also need to get a good axe and saw so I can cut the smaller blowdowns that I encounter on the trail. I broke both my axe and saw last year removing a larger blowdown. I do like that Rogue 70HR with the hoe/rake combination, however.

 

[Creag Nan Drochaid]

Cooperhill has focused on the key question: what level of work are you doing today?
If adopter/Level 1 work, then you'll want a long-handle round point shovel for cleaning drains, a 2.5 lb pick-mattock (Home Depot, ca. $20) for breaking up packed sediment in those drains/ ditches, loppers, folding saw, 30"-36" bowsaw w/ spare blade, a light ax (2 lb.), and 2 5' loops of 1" nylon webbing (ca. $.40/' @ EMS)for moving logs etc. without straining your back, improvising a peavey with a stick, etc. A 30' length of webbing is very helpful for pulling down trees while standing away from the fall line.
Our Level 1 work on Spring patrol is to clear the drains and chop the blowdowns. If we can visit the trail twice before blackfly season then I chop the blowdowns first. Cleaning the drains means we brush out narrowly above the outflow ditch so we have room to work and no excuse to not start at the downstream end, throwing veggie debris into the woods and mineral soil on the trail downhill of the drain. By standing in the ditch and working upstream sliding the shovel along the bottom we automatically leave a ditch that is perfectly shaped to carry water, round bottom and sloping sides, at least 1:1 if not 1:1.5. If the ditch is not so shaped, we are in the right position to make it so. The shovel lets us throw the soil accurately for several yards; no mattock can do that. If the ditch is longer than that we bring a few small plastic buckets ($1.75 at Family Dollar stores) to lug the mineral soil to the trail.
Everything around us is a resource, we waste nothing if we can help it. Blowdowns are used for steps and waterbars, the slash and tops from them is more barricades at trailside.
When we move to Level 2 construction work we add crowbars of 10- to 18-lbs. Smallest that will do the job, lighter to carry, and the smaller ones are movable with one hand.
Pulaskis, root mattocks, root axes, fire rakes... we prefer folding saws and loppers for roots and shovels for digging. Hazel hoes are for sidehilling and maybe cutting turf when digging a new drain, but ours mostly ride in our tool trailer. Swizels are only for raspberries.
Interesting and timely thread. Hope to read more.
Creag nan drochaid
Cardigan Highlanders Volunteer Trail Crew
AMC Cardigan Volunteer Trail Crew

 

[RoySwkr]

You can do everything you can do with a chainsaw with a crosscut.

You can cut trees of any size with an ax, they used to do sequoias

On one CTA trip, I toted a 6' 2-man crosscut for Wilderness work. If you have a large backpack you can bend it into a horseshoe to tie on, but with a day pack it had to be carried loose. I never found a satisfactory way in which the sharp teeth weren't endangering something (no saw cover provided). One problem with the crosscut - if the blowdown is over waist-high, where does the second guy stand, cutting up is much tougher.

A chain saw with parts and fuel may be heavier but more compact and a lot of people have rigs designed to carry them. Besides I learned at chainsaw class that you get your required assistant to carry the saw so you arrive rested