Trap Dike 12-09

[Neil]

HERE is a link to a TR for a trip up the Dike and down the SE slide of Colden.

And if you prefer pics to words HERE is a link to some pics.

 

[giggy]

nice stuff neil , I am hoping to get out and do this at some stage. But while decent on steep snow and ice - I am not nearly as confidant on rock. Thats a class 4 route ain't it?

 

[Neil]

Thats a class 4 route ain't it?

I'm not sure which Class system you mean, The Yosemite one with 5.6, 5.14c and all that?

Or the overall classification of an entire route? In the Rockies guide book they will classify a route like this: II 5.4 which means the toughest rock move is a 5.4 and the overall route is a II.

Using that system and looking at the guidebook ratings for some routes I've done out west I would say it was a I 5.2 or maybe 5.3. However, I'm not all that familiar with the rating systems so don't take my word as gospel. Note that the Dike portion was quite do-able in trail runners.

Maybe someone who knows more about than me will offer a comment on the rating.

 

[KenG]

Neil,

If memory serves me correctly, I believe the static portion of the dike is rated a 5.3 and the friction is a 5.4 but I've been wrong before!

Ken

 

[jrbren]

Neil. Nice report. I have done this exact trip twice this summer, once in early August(8/12) and repeated last Sunday (9/17). The first time was very fun and I would rate it in my top 2 or 3 favorite hikes in the east (I do not know if I like this or Huntington Ravine ascent of Mt Washington with Boote Spur descent better). Hikes involving King Ravine are in the mix too. The 3rd water fall is a bit of a challenge for me (I am no rock climber, I went with my friend who is a rock climber (can lead), he brought a rope as suggested in some guide books, I brought my harness, a caribeener and belay device. I have these from my glacier travel hikes out west). Other then that it was not too scary, but very fun scrambling when dry. It was also challenging getting out of the dike, we got out at 3700', maybe too soon ? Very steep but dry & grippy slabs. We did not use the rope.

Last Sunday was a different story. Although a sunny day and I thought a dry day on Saturday, trails around Avalanche Lake and the dike were quite wet and greasy. This made the climb much more scary then last time. This time I requested that my friend break out his rope on the 3rd waterfall and he also brought prussics which we used for safety to ascend the chimney to the right of the 3rd waterfall, using rope & prussic for safety(did not use belay device). I would have felt silly getting crippled from a fall with rope & harnesses in our pack, and wet rock made previously fun scambles quiet hairy. I also had a harder time getting out of the dike to on the steeper wet slabs. Slipped once, sliding about 10 feet and have some good rock burns on my arms & knees to show for it. I do not know why the dike was so wet, morning dew with no morning sun ? The east slide was dry and as you say the rock is grippy so this makes a great descent route (and ascent route in its own right, which I had done in the past). On that 3rd waterfall, someone had left a rope set up. I would never trust some elses rope. I do not know whose it was, left by rangers or well intended do gooder ? Or someone too tired to carry there 10 ton rope up the mountain after letting it dangle in the brook & become saturated ? The rope was set up to take right up the gut of the brook, no thanks !

The difficulty of the dike appears to very dramatically based on whether it is wet or dry, IMHO. I would reommend only going on a dry day with at least one or 2 dry days before it. I have read it is the sight of more rescues then any other route in the ADKs (I do not know how this book defines "route"). Pretty easy to see why. Non climber like me going half way up, it starts to rain, everything gets greased, can't go down, can't go up.

I did eagle slide last summer, consider to be like the upper reaches of the Colden east slide but the steep slabs go on for much longer. Another wonderful trip I want to repeat someday, also requires dry conditions to be safe or some rope for safety.

Cheers - John

 

[Guinness]

Hi Neil,

That is a great route and sounds like you had a great experience. I did the same route back in July 1999, seams so long ago now, I just may have to head back there. Follow-up this trip with a visit to the Eagle on Giant, if you have not already done, you will just love it.

-Ed

 

[deadpoint]

Or the overall classification of an entire route? In the Rockies guide book they will classify a route like this: II 5.4 which means the toughest rock move is a 5.4 and the overall route is a II.

Using that system and looking at the guidebook ratings for some routes I've done out west I would say it was a I 5.2 or maybe 5.3. However, I'm not all that familiar with the rating systems so don't take my word as gospel. Note that the Dike portion was quite do-able in trail runners.

Maybe someone who knows more about than me will offer a comment on the rating.

the trap dike would be rated using the yosemite decimal system at Class 4. there are no sections that require the use of a rope or fixed protection. as an ice climb/mountaineering route it's graded NEI 2, shouldn't require anything more the a mountain axe and crampons, the same goes the TNF gothics.