Tufted Titmouse (mice)

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darren

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OK, broken leg still has me shooting out the window.

A couple of shots of tufted titmice (plural ?).


0435-titmouse-800.jpg

ISO 800, f 6.3, 1/400 sec


0437-titmouse-600V-2.jpg

ISO 1600, f 8, 1/500 sec

Canon 20D
Canon 100-400 IS L both @ 360mm
Tripod

I know they say not to use Image Stabilization on a tripod, but I leave the tripod head very loose so I can swing around and I leave the IS on in mode 1. Seems to work ok.

The first one looks a little front focused to me - the body is in focus more than the eyes. Tough to focus on the head of such a small bird. So I upped the ISO to 1600 and went to f8 to get more in focus for the second shot. I had to spend some more time in PS to reduce the noise but it seems ok to me. What do you think?

- darren
 
Yeah, nice. The second one has the advantage of the nature light, but I like the overall balance of the first. I can't distinguish any focus issue, but again the light reflection (in the eyes) in the second is so much nicer.
 
darren said:
I know they say not to use Image Stabilization on a tripod, but I leave the tripod head very loose so I can swing around and I leave the IS on in mode 1. Seems to work ok.
I have seen the same advice about mixing IS and tripods...

But I was reading a copy of a Canon press release and it claimed that "IS switches off automatically when the camera is mounted on a tripod". http://bobatkins.com/photography/reviews/canon_EF_70-300.html

Don't recall seeing this anywhere else. There is no visible sensor in the tripod mount of my DR-XT, although I suppose the motion sensors in the lens might be able to detect the lack of motion when using a tripod.

Doug
 
I was looking closely at the branch to judge focal depth (you can see a difference between the two feet in the first one, so I see why you wanted a smaller aperture), and I noticed a bit of artifact along the top edge of the nearest part of the branch (and on even closer inspection, along the edge of the breast). It exists in both but it seems to be stronger in the second one - a side effect of your processing for noise reduction?

That I can notice this at all is due to the shot being extremely sharp and well-lit in the first place.

The second one has more sparkle in the eye, and that classic raised crest that you generally want in a titmouse portrait. The first is very good too, and it's nice to have some wing detail, but it doesn't "pop" quite as much. A tighter crop might help but I think the difference is in the pose: the second one seems to be looking at the viewer, the first one doesn't seem to be looking at anything in particular.
 
I guess that is on the 3rd generation IS. I can hear mine running so I know it is working. At first I thought the slight whirring sound was distrubing, but now I like it because I know it is working.

- darren
 
darren said:
I guess that is on the 3rd generation IS. I can hear mine running so I know it is working. At first I thought the slight whirring sound was distrubing, but now I like it because I know it is working.
Dunno...

The manual for my EF70-300mm IS USM lens says: "When you use a tripod, the Image Stabilizer should be turned off to save battery power."

Also says: "The Stabilizer is equally effective for hand-held photography and photography with a monopod."

This does rather sound like the only problem with using the IS when the camera is mechanically stabilized is higher than necessary power drain...

Doug
 
DougPaul - yah, my manual says the same thing. I always thought that it was to reduce the possible vibration blur caused by the IS itself. Battery life makes sense too. Dunno either. If I lock the tripod down solid, then I shut of IS. If I leave the head loose so I can swing the camera around then I leave IS on.

nartreb - if you zoom way in, you probably can see edge artifacts of the noise reduction I did in PS. The real problem with high ISO noise is in open areas like the background. I select the background with the "magic wand" and then do filter-blur-gausian blur at 1.0 - 1.5. It gets rid of the noise and with a background like this, you can take the blur because you do not want any detail in the background.

The edge artifact comes from how long I want to spend selecting the background. If you set the magic wand value at too high a number then it is a little over zealous in selecting areas and you get some edge artifacts.

- darren
 
Noise Reduction

First, nice shots! My wife and I love tufted titmice.

As to noise. One of the ways you can deal with noise is to take a dark frame immediately following the exposure using the same settings, then subtract it from the first shot in Photoshop. To do this you open both frames in Photoshop, select all in the dark frame, copy it to the clip board and paste it into the first shot. It will be pasted as a new layer. Then change the layer's blending mode from Normal to Difference. Any noise will be subtracted from the image.

This is a bigger concern at longer exposure times. It's well known among astrophotographers. I have a Canon digital Rebel XT, and one of the features many people don't know about is the automatic dark frame subtraction that the camera can do by setting Custom Function 2 to "On". This function is called "Long Exposure Noise Reduction" and ..."Reduces noise in bulb exposures 30 sec. or longer at ISO 100 - 800 or 1 sec. or longer at ISO 1600. After the picture is taken, the time required for noise reduction processing will be the same as the exposure time. During noise reduction processing, "buSY" will be displayed and shooting will not be possible."

Kevin
 
kmorgan said:
This is a bigger concern at longer exposure times. It's well known among astrophotographers. I have a Canon digital Rebel XT, and one of the features many people don't know about is the automatic dark frame subtraction that the camera can do by setting Custom Function 2 to "On". This function is called "Long Exposure Noise Reduction" and ..."Reduces noise in bulb exposures 30 sec. or longer at ISO 100 - 800 or 1 sec. or longer at ISO 1600. After the picture is taken, the time required for noise reduction processing will be the same as the exposure time. During noise reduction processing, "buSY" will be displayed and shooting will not be possible."
I have used this function in some astronomical photos (30 sec, ASA 1600, lens wide open). The sensor was low enough noise that the subtraction didn't seem to make much difference. It is possible that it might make a difference on scenes in which the noise is more visible.

Doug
 
Here is another one. A little more depth of field and light than #1 above, but I think I still like #2 the best.

0472-titmouse-800.jpg


- darren
 
I don't really know how to critique bird photography, as there are many publications that have established the 'standards' of avian photography by their submission guidelines. However, all of your bird shots, in all your recent threads, look like they're right out of one of those magazines. I can appreciate the shots, but their not shots I would myself critique

That being said, I was quite complelled to say that I really liked this last image that you posted in this thread, with the sun on the bird. Just a fantastic shot of great subject and light, with a clean background of great color!

Sorry I can't say more, but to me, a sharp and clean bird is a sharp and clean bird... :confused:
 
Last edited:
Peakbagr said:
This is fun just watching and listening. Darren, what camera and model do you have?


I shot those with a disposable camera I got at CVS.

:D

Actually, bird photography is one case where the lens matters. I have a Canon 20D and all the bird shots were done with the Canon 100-400mm IS L lens. IS = Image Stabilization. The "L" is the designator for Canon's flagship lens line, which uses better glass than the non-L consumer line. Some people love the 100-400 and some think it is at the lower end of the L line. I think for a 100-400mm zoom lens it is pretty sweet. There is a little bit of a learning curve, as there is with any lens. I've been getting some nice surfing shots with it. It has it's limitations - as a f 5.6 400mm it loves a lot of light, but overall, I have been very happy with it.

If I was going to stay in that price range and get a lens just for birding I would get the Canon fixed 400mm f5.6 just because it is better at 400mm. When I am shooting birds I am pretty much always all the way out to 400mm - but I back off to 380mm or so to get a better initial quality from the zoom lens. I wanted the versatility of a zom lens though and I have been happy that I went with the zoom. I would have missed a ton of surfing shots if I couldn't have zoomed out.

Would I like to have a 600mm f4 IS L? Yah, sure. Do I have $6,000? No. :rolleyes:

- darren

Canon 100-400mm IS L lens
 
w7xman said:
I don't really know how to critique bird photography

I agree with you there. I'm stuck in the house and just trying to shoot something. My parents are really into birding and just from growing up I have a decent knowledge of birds. I'm trying to get some shots similar to some of the one I have seen in my parent's magazines. I think I am coming close, but I don't have enough experience to tell.

I know there are some serious birders on this site, and one question I have is would these images get published or are they considered "boring" because they are yard birds?

- darren
 
Darren,
I really don't know how you break into bird phtogoraphy other than it's a tough field to sell. Talk to Jeff Nadler. Jeff does amazing work, has a fantastic slide show he takes around and recently had the cover photo of Adirondack Life magazine. He's very personable and I'm sure will give you the straight scoop.

Here is a link to a page of Cornell's Laboratory of Ornitholgy where viewers can submit their photos. Try the link to the editor of that page. You might get some info there but I think Jeff would be mroe help as his work is definitely topnotch professional and he's been working on getting his name and photos out.

http://www.birds.cornell.edu/AllAboutBirds/bp

This is the link to the page of the photogoraphers that have their shots used for "All About Birds" an on-line birding resource. I know a few of these fellows and they're just regular guys who happened to have a decent shot, usually with a digital camera handy. Marie Read (no relation) is local (Ithaca area) and has published several birding books. Jeff is on that list also. Some others are Lab of Ornitholgy employees.

http://www.birds.cornell.edu/AllAboutBirds/aboutphotos

You have the photography skills to get into bird work. It's awfully time consuming to get those great action shots in the field.

Good luck and thanks for opening up the photography section. It's another aspect of getting out in the woods and enriches our time.
 
darren said:
I agree with you there. I'm stuck in the house and just trying to shoot something. My parents are really into birding and just from growing up I have a decent knowledge of birds. I'm trying to get some shots similar to some of the one I have seen in my parent's magazines. I think I am coming close, but I don't have enough experience to tell.

I know there are some serious birders on this site, and one question I have is would these images get published or are they considered "boring" because they are yard birds?
I agree with Boreal Chickadee's comments on Jeff Nadler. His work and website are excellent, and he could no doubt offer some advice.

A backyard locale should not be a issue for marketable bird photographs. Many bird images that I have seen it books, magazines, and identification guidebooks look like they could be from a backyard. Photographs clearly from a wild location might have an edge, but it is often impossible to discern. Birds in action are always preferable, but portraits are in wide usage also.

Stock Photography

Many published images come from stock photography companies. The industry has recently gone through the conversion from slides to digital for most of their images. The impact is both good and bad for the photographer. No longer do the stock houses require the photographer's original slides. That allows stock photographers to submit the same image to multiple stock houses. That has greatly increased the competition amongst photographers. In addition the stock companies no longer have to send out slides to their potential buyers (who buy the right to publish the image, the photographer generally still owns the image). Those buyers can now review images on the stock house's website and make their selections. Buyers can see the best images more readily. The whole industry has been streamlined. The competition among stock houses has been fierce. As a result many stock agencies have gone out of business or have merged. All of this has reduced the marketplace from the photographer's perspective.

Stock houses have never been interested in photographers who have just a few marketable images to offer. They only deal with photographers who can deliver hundreds, and preferably thousands of marketable new images each year. It is not worth their time to establish an account for a photographer who cannot deliver that number of images. Most images that they accept will probably never sell to a client, and neither the photographer nor the stock house make any money until an image sells. That is why they demand so many images from their photographers. They also need a wide selection to offer to their clients.

My advice is the same for anybody who considers stock photography: Don't give up your day job. Few photographers make a living from stock exclusively.

There is a good wildlife stock house, Animals Animals in Chatham NY, not far from the junction of the NYS Thruway and the Taconic Parkway, and not far from the Massachusetts state line. They have also expanded into environmental earth scenes (a merger IIRC). They are a very reputable and respected company. I know several photographers who shoot stock for them.

On their website, if you click on the "Gallery", and then "Newly Uploaded Images" you will see several bird photographs that may have been photographed in a backyard. Your photographs are as good IMHO. If you were to shoot for stock, you might consider adding additional branches to add some variety to your photos. An investment in flowering trees might add further variety.

Click "About Us" for their submission guidelines. Initial submission requirements are 200 slide or digital images with captions (see the gallery for examples, Latin names required). Their terms are quite standard. They may also be willing to answer general questions about marketable bird photographs prior to a submission.
 
BorealChickadee & Mark,

Thanks for all the info. I'm not looking to become a pro bird photographer or anything like that. I'm more curious about the prospects of getting shots like these published in some birding or garden magazines. I don't have the time to shoot enough to get into stock photography. I know some magazines do take submissions for their monthly photo gallery sections etc. I'm more curious about that. Not sure if the shots being yardbirds makes them too common or if it could be a good thing because more people associate with them.

It would be nice, but I certainly don't have any dreams of quitting my day job and becomeing a pro photographer. The chances of that are slim to none and slim left town. :D

Thanks

- darren
 
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