Waxing "Waxless" Skiis

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KayakDan

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As a relative "newbie" to XC skiing(this is my second season),I'm still trying to figure out the gear. Mrs KD and I have Alpina Discoverys with Alpina BC Boots. I'm told these are waxless skis,but I'm curious about whether waxing them would improve glide or speed.
Also,not being one to take the slow route on the learning curve (third time on skis was into Zealand-with a BC sled!)I'm really interested in skate skiing. Any recommendations of a good place to rent and learn?

I wonder if there are any outdoor sports that don't take a thousand $$ in gear to get started? :rolleyes:
 
Even "waxless" skis benefit from a good glide waxing every now and then. It's not strictly necessary, but you'll glide farther and your bases will become less oxidized (translating into more speed and a longer life). In general, you do not wax the kick pattern.

Glide waxing is a bit of an art, but it's easy to teach yourself. If you don't want to go the iron-in route, consider a paste wax like Notwax or Maxiglide -- not as long-lasting as a full iron wax, but it can do the trick.
 
There are two main categories of ski wax:

1) glide wax - used on all types of skis and snowboards, it improves the interface between the snow and the ski/board base.

2) kick wax - generally only used on x-c and backcountry skis that have 1.5 or double camber (put the ski flat on the floor with no weight on top and notice the gap under the foot section)

If you have waxless skis with scales, you never need KICK wax. You are certainly still welcome, and encouraged, to put glide wax on base wherever there are no scales (don't glide wax the scales underfoot).

If you have waxable skis (i.e. no scales) then you'll glide wax the tips and tails and kick wax the middle section (called the kick zone).

The length of kick zone varies with ski type, skier weight, snow conditions, etc etc etc.

With waxless skis, you can neglect any kind of wax if you really want, but you'll find periodic applications of glide wax (on the tips and tails only) will improve speed.

Waxing can get very complicated, but this is the most basic info.

I have two books that have both been very helpful to me as I made the transition from waxless to waxable skis.

Waxing for Skiers by Malcolm Corcoran
Waxing and Care of Skis and Snowboards by Michael Brady and Leif Torgensen

good luck!

spencer
 
I used to put glide wax on the tips and tails of my waxless skis and found it helped a lot. After a few years, the scales got so beat up I just sanded them off and now wax the entire length. I iron on a hard wax on the entire length and rub on softer wax in the kick zone.

The Woodstock Inn has a nice XC ski center. On the golf course, they groom some trails with tracks and other trails without tracks (for skaters). They also have trails on hills adjacent to the golf course for a bit more of a workout.
 
A little paste wax in the waxless pattern can be helpful when the snow is clumpy. The waxless pattern will still grip the snow, and the paste wax will make sure the snow releases on the glide.

I saw in one of your previous posts that you were up in Quebec for the winter carnival. Next time you are up that way in winter, check out the cross country center at Mont Sainte Anne. It's an absolutely wonderful place to ski. My kids took skate ski lessons there from a fine instructor, and also rented decent skate ski equipment.
 
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As always,you folks are always a wealth of information. Sounds like I will go with glide wax on the tips and tails.
Halite,I was right near Mont St Anne,but I could only fit so much into my time there. Next year I will plan extra time for Valcartier and Ste. Anne and bring my skiis and crampons for Montmorency.

And while we were in Quebec,Mrs KD was interviewed by Good Morning America for a Carnaval du Quebec piece. She got her 10 seconds of fame on GMA yesterday morning. She even put in a plug for the Whites,but it didn't make the cut! :D
 
I hot wax the entire waxless ski (including the pattern) with a glide wax, then scrape and brush the ski. The tip and tail are easily scraped with a standard scraper, the pattern requres a screwdriver and an hour or so of time. (Some patterns are faster to scrape than others.) This protects the ski, gives me a good glide, and allows me to use glue-on skins. (The liquid treatments would not work well with skins.) Another method of removing excess wax from the pattern is to soak it up in a paper towel before it has a chance to solidify.

I have also used kick wax on the tips and tails of a waxless ski to improve the grip for steep ascents.

BTW, kick waxes are also useful on single camber (backcountry or Tele) skis if a trip includes both kick-and-glide and downhill-turn segments. Kick waxes glide quite well--they just may wear off the "kick zone" faster than on a double-camber ski.

Doug
 
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You can put a lot of miles on waxless skis before they need waxing. Let me tell you about the time I decided to experiment and generously applied the wax to the whole ski. Stepping into the skis felt like wearing ice skates in a room full of ball bearings. I never knew my body could distort in so many directions at once. Friction had, at last, been conquered.

Wonder what would happen if taken internally :confused:
 
KD - Not sure where you're located, but I would strongly...very strongly...suggest taking a skate lesson at Great Glen Trails. An excellent place to learn, and the staff is top notch. They can also answer all your gear and waxing questions. Well worth the day.

Swix F4 is a good quick fix for waxless skis.
 
Stan said:
You can put a lot of miles on waxless skis before they need waxing.

Depends on the snow. On abrasive snow, the wax can wear off in less than a day. This can be more obvious on a waxable ski because it can lose both kick and glide, less obvious on an waxless ski since it only loses glide.

Stan said:
Let me tell you about the time I decided to experiment and generously applied the wax to the whole ski. Stepping into the skis felt like wearing ice skates in a room full of ball bearings.

A properly waxed ski glides with far less friction than an unwaxed ski. Makes for more efficient (and better :) ) skiing.

The liquid and paste waxes are quick and simple to use, but do not last as long as an ironed-in (melted-in) wax. Ironed-in can also give better performance. (Racers generally use melted in waxes, but they are frequently in the performance-at-almost-any-cost category.)

Doug
 
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Traibiscuit,thanks for the info on Great Glen. I'm in the Whites all the time,so it's not a problem. I may stop by Sunday if we don't do another trail
Looks like waxing,in some form or another is better than not waxing at all.
Speed..I need speed! I'll figure out that control stuff later! :D
 
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