Wildcats & Carter-Moriah Traverse, 9/5/2007

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BIGEarl

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Location
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September 5, 2007: Wildcats & Carter-Moriah Traverse

Trails:

A.T. from Pinkham Notch to Route 2 in Gorham

Trail segments:

Lost Pond Trail
Wildcat Ridge Trail
Nineteen Mile Brook Trail
Carter-Moriah Trail
Kenduskeag Trail
Rattle River Trail

Distance – Elevation: 21 miles, 7,150 feet, (plus 3.7 miles - road walk)


Often a story ends with the comment – “It seemed like a good idea at the time”.

Well…

This hike has been on my to-do list for 2007. The days have started to get shorter and I decided to get moving on this one. A few weeks ago I started to see about hiking partners for the hike. At one point it looked like I had a solid plan in place with one other person but he cancelled out the night before due to a personal matter. I decided to take a shot at the hike, solo or accompanied, on August 29 but the forecasted weather conditions became very unfavorable and I once again delayed. Finally, everything fell into place for a hike on September 5 and I was off.

My day started at 1:00am for the final preparation and a departure to Pinkham Notch Visitor Center (PNVC) at 2:00am. Along the way I thought about where to leave the truck – PNVC or Rattle River trailhead, which was my ending location. If I parked at PNVC it would mean hitching a ride back there at the end of the day. Parking at Rattle River would mean starting by hitching a ride. With multiple possible bail-outs as part of the plan there was a possibility of hitching a ride mid-hike. All of the bail-outs went to Route 16 which seemed to suggest a PNVC location was best. I decided to end the day with hitching a ride. I expected to arrive at 5:00am but was roughly 20 minutes early. I took care of my final preparation, which included adding a layer – it was cool and windy, turned on my headlight and headed out on the Lost Pond Trail.

I had initially expected to reach the Lost Pond – Wildcat Ridge trails junction as it was starting to get light but that wasn’t the case. I came to the trails junction, turned left and started up the Wildcat Ridge Trail in darkness. It wasn’t as difficult as I had expected. I took my time and slowly made progress toward the ridge. By the time I reached the first ledge viewpoint the headlight was off and packed away. The temperature was in the low 40’s and I had a pretty good breeze to tolerate. Hiking the Wildcat Ridge Trail from Pinkham early in the morning means you’re on the dark side of the moon – no benefit from the warm sun. As I’ve said before – it doesn’t take much to make a fat guy sweat – and I was working pretty hard in climbing to Wildcat Ridge. I had no trouble in keeping warm.

Surprisingly, I made it to the ridge and found myself on Wildcat D a solid 30 minutes ahead of plan. Not bad! On the way I had thought about stopping at the ski patrol shack at the top of Wildcat for a brief break. When I arrived there I could see a couple occupied sleeping bags on the floor and decided not to disturb these folks.

I knew hiking across Wildcat Ridge is hard work and I needed to keep focused on getting through to Wildcat A. No problem! I reached Wildcat A, stopped for a few pictures at the outlook over Carter Notch and continued. The next challenge to overcome was right in front of me. The view of Carter Dome on the far side of Carter Notch is very de-motivating. This is the first place where it would be very easy to call it a day, but I wasn’t quite ready for that. Down from Wildcat A to Carter Notch I hiked. When I reached the Wildcat Ridge – Nineteen Mile Brook trails junction I finally stopped for refreshment. With that out of the way I headed off for the Carter Moriah Trail, which would lead me to Carter Dome, across the Carters, and on to Moriah.

Part of my plan was to have lunch and re-supply with water at the spring below the summit of Carter Dome. On an earlier similar hike I found my water supply was very low after lunch on Mt. Hight and it ran out before the Imp Campsite. I wanted to avoid a similar situation. I started the hike with plenty of water and Gatorade to make it well past Zeta Pass but made it a point to drink as much as possible on the way to Carter Dome. By stopping at the Carter Dome spring I could re-hydrate, eat, and top everything off. I also had an extra container to fill there. I was sure this approach would do the job. While climbing Carter Dome I came upon a couple large groups of students from a school in Beverly Ma., they were staying at the Carter Notch Hut for a few days. Outdoor education I assumed. Actually, there were at least three groups with two adult chaperones in each group – they all met at the summit of Carter Dome, a crowded place. One of the groups were planning to visit the spring but missed it. I found the path that leads to the spring goes left from the Carter-Moriah trail at 4300 feet. There’s a slight loss of elevation to the spring. It’s a good idea to have a filter to aid in pumping water from the shallow pool at the spring. I had my lunch, water, and Gatorade, reloaded with water and Gatorade, and headed back to the hike.

Soon, I reached the summit and found the crowded conditions. A few pictures and I was on my way to Mt. Hight. Everybody was clearly getting comfortable and planning to have their lunch, which gave me the opportunity to put some distance between me and everybody else. The hike across Mt. Hight and down to Zeta Pass was clear – a little rough coming off Mt. Hight but I’ve been through this section before and knew it was coming. I hit the junction with the Carter Dome Trail and knew Zeta Pass was just around the corner.



:D
 
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Wildcats & Carter-Moriah Traverse - Part 2

At Zeta Pass I had planned another stop. When I arrived there two other hikers were just arriving from the north. We visited for a while and I decided to keep moving to avoid losing too much time to socializing. I could stop at S. Carter or perhaps Middle Carter for another quick break. The Carter-Moriah Trail is in great shape and it seems there are new bridges along the way since my last visit to the area. I reached S. Carter and stopped for a quick snack. There I was passed by a solo hiker headed north at a pretty good pace. After a short delay I was headed north as well. Approximately ¾ of the way to Middle Carter the solo hiker passed again, headed south. He was hiking South and Middle Carter and now on his way out.

I continued over Middle Carter and to North Carter. Just past the summit of Middle Carter I passed another pair of hikers heading north. I never saw them again and they could have headed down on the North Carter Trail, one of my bail-out possibilities. After reaching the summit of North Carter I knew some very steep and rough trail was just ahead. The exit of N. Carter to the area near Imp Mountain requires a great amount of care to avoid possible serious consequences. For me, this is a very difficult section but I made it through without a single slip. With that out of the way I knew it would be a clear run to the Stony Brook – Carter-Moriah trails junction.

I reached this mud-bog junction and considered my last bail out option. It was getting late and I knew some hitch hiking waited for me – always better in daylight conditions. I was sure if I headed out I would land on route 16 and there would be a couple hours of daylight making getting a ride much easier. But, I had only one more summit and a straight shot out to Route 2. Hitching a ride after dark was a little more difficult but not that bad. So, off for Moriah I went.

Along the way to Moriah I passed one solo hiker heading down. Her pack size seemed to suggest a day hiker. Near the summit I met two trail workers that were evidently performing waterbar maintenance, and I would see examples of their efforts multiple times along the trails to Route 2. After passing the trail workers it was little more than the short hike across from the false summit of Moriah to the actual high-point. At the Carter-Moriah and Kenduskeag trails junction I was faced with one last scramble for the day, the short climb to the summit. As the day went on my picture activity fell off. At the summit of Moriah I looked around and decided to take a picture of the USGS summit marker and that was about it. The lighting conditions were poor making it difficult to get good shots for someone with limited photographic skills – such as myself. I paused to think - some day I’d like to be here for the sunrise, and left.

Now, back to the Carter-Moriah and Kenduskeag trails junction. From here I expected a pleasant exit to Route 2. Instead, the Kenduskeag is a real butt kicker – even on descent. This trail is very steep and rough for much of the section leading to the Rattle River Trail junction. This could be my imagination because it’s been a long day and by now I’m really tired. But, I’m thinking it is actually a butt-kicker trail. I made it to the Rattle River Trail, noticed the light was still good and thought only 4.3 miles and I’m hitching a ride – perhaps some daylight will remain.

The first half of the Rattle River Trail was more of the same – very steep and very rough conditions. In a relatively short distance the elevation dropped from 3300 to 1500 feet and my knees and feet were screaming. This is the first time in a couple years that my knees protested the conditions (for me, glucosamine is good stuff). Finally, the trail eased up a little, the grade became mild and the trail much smoother. This was the final cruise to the trailhead. Along the way I passed the Rattle River Shelter where I found half dozen guys there for the night. They had a fire going, made from mostly logs in the ten to twelve inch diameter category, and piled approximately four feet high, with a pot of something warming on top. An interesting approach to camp cooking for sure.

Finally, the trailhead. I quickly packed away my poles and headed for the far side of route 2 for a ride. There was a good amount of traffic and I was sure this wouldn’t take long. After a half hour I decided my chances were probably better on Route 16 so I started my 3.7 mile road walk to the east intersection of route 2 and route 16 in Gorham. Along the way I enjoyed watching a large number of tail lights disappear. Finally reaching Route 16 I was also able to catch a ride to Pinkham Notch. The day ended a little later than planned but plans don’t always go the way you’d like.

The road walk was something I really didn’t need. But I left the truck at PNVC because, well, it seemed like a good idea at the time.

Now, I have just one more long hike on my 2007 to-do list. We’ll see.



I've posted some pictures from the day.


BIGEarl's pictures.


Straight to the slideshow.
 
UNFROZENCAVEMAN said:
Still bangin big a$$, long hard hikes out - that's awesome!

Thanks, Steven. I haven't heard from you in quite a while. Hopefully you're still getting out.



una_dogger said:
.....
Way to go, Big Earl. I'm hoping to do that traverse someday myself.
:)

You could have come along on Wednesday, there was room for more. ;) Plus, I've heard you still smell ok at the end of a long day. :D That could have helped avoid the road walk.

Unfortunately, my hiking speed would have probably driven you crazy and your hiking speed would have killed me. :)
 
BIGEarl said:
My day started at 1:00am for the final preparation and a departure to Pinkham Notch Visitor Center (PNVC) at 2:00am.

Wow. I thought I had an early start at 4:00am. Great photos. I was up on the other side hiking Pierce and Eisenhower. It was a great day.
 
eddie said:
Nice job BIGEarl. What was the total hike time and vertical gain?

What's the one remaining hike on the 07 TO DO list?

The hike specs are 21 miles, 7,150 feet, and a 3.7 mile road walk at the end.

Book time was roughly 14hr. 15min, end-to-end time including all stops and side trips was 14hr. 30min. I'm slow but can go a long time, and eventually I'll git 'er done.

The one remaining long hike for 2007? I hope to get in a Presi Traverse but it's getting late. Perhaps sometime in the next few weeks I can find a couple interested in a day above the treeline.

We'll see.

:D
 
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You COULD start at Isolation, and work your way over to Mizpah Hut, head NNE along the Presis, come down Madison via Daniel Webster Scout, and then up Imp Tr to North Carter, and traverse the Carter-Wildcat range heading generally SSW back to the Rocky Branch trail head.

That sounds like a cross between Big Earl and Matts, actually. I bet Tim Seaver would be up for it too ;)

Tim
 
bikehikeskifish said:
You COULD start at Isolation, and work your way over to Mizpah Hut, head NNE along the Presis, come down Madison via Daniel Webster Scout, and then up Imp Tr to North Carter, and traverse the Carter-Wildcat range heading generally SSW back to the Rocky Branch trail head.

That sounds like a cross between Big Earl and Matts, actually. I bet Tim Seaver would be up for it too ;)

Tim

Tim,

What about Moriah??? You missed Moriah. :D
 
You complained about the road walk, so I left it out. You can come down Pine Link into Gorham and walk down route 2 for a bit if you'd like :D Or, walk down Dolly Copp Road and head north on 16 for a bit...

Tim
 
I really appreciate your concern, thank you. The problem is a road walk at the end of the hike. It's never fun. You have it in the middle. That should work.

;)
 
EARL; The hike specs are 21 miles, 7,150 feet, and a 3.7 mile road walk at the end. Book time was roughly 14hr. 15min, end-to-end time including all stops and side trips was 14hr. 30min. I'm slow but can go a long time, and eventually I'll git 'er done. The one remaining long hike for 2007? I hope to get in a Presi Traverse but it's getting late. Perhaps sometime in the next few weeks I can find a couple interested in a day above the treeline.


EARL--wow! SLOW?? I don't think so!!! as someone who took 11.5 hrs to go up and down mt washington doing 9.25 miles, to me you are a maniac speed demon. i had been hoping to meet you at zeta pass that sunday in august but i am glad you cancelled as the day was really foggy. loved the report-thanks for sharing it. i am planning a slowpoke presi traverse for next summer--maybe doing a hut to hut.
susan
 
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