Reminiscing: By far, our favorite restaurant ever in the White Mountains region was Govoni's, a quaint small white converted cottage tucked between rt. 112 west of North Woodstock and a small scenic gorge of the Moosilauke Brook. Opened summers since 1914, the family operated in the winter at Loon Mountain in a building which subsequently housed a nature center, then a ski rental center ... don't know what it is now, don't go back much since the restaurant closed not to mention that we went on to other mountains and regions. We went back many times and made a game of "bagging" every table like our quest in the mountains.
Seating was limited, maybe serving a capacity of 45. Red and white checkered tablecloths and old Chianti bottles stuffed with dripping candles were all the decor needed. First come, first served but there was a "lounge" and, if you were lucky to get one of the half dozen seats, and your adrenaline boost from your hike wasn't enough, the cars coming down from Kinsmen's Notch 10 feet away at the speed of light might help. Alternately, you could take your cocktail out to a couple benches on the porch or take a short walk over the footbridge in back and a short trail on the other side of the gorge.
The family relocated their winters to Breckenridge, CO and continued to operate the restaurant in the summer until, eventually, no one in the family was interested in the business. They leased the premises for a few summers under strict guidelines on loyalty to the menu and recipes, which were basically delicious home cooked Italian dishes at very reasonable prices. I still have a late '90's menu filed with my nearby hiking info and here's what I'd probably order today: soup di giorno bowl 2.95, eggplant parmigiana with a side of spaghetti, family style house salad, fresh baked bread 10.95, or possibly a special off the board, and a homemade dessert.
We've been to most of the restaurants listed in the thread but none can compare to Govonis in ambiance, value, quality and service. I bet we'd go back to the White more often if it were still there.