Yellowstone / Tetons

[Billy]

Anybody done any backpacking in Yellowstone / Grand Tetons?

Please share any info on your experience re: trails, campsites, time of year, and any other details.

I've got the books and maps and a basic idea of the specific areas I'll be heading, but just looking for other ideas too.

thanks.

 

[pudgy_groundhog]

It's been awhile, but we backpacked the Teton Crest trail (pictures/trip notes). Fantastic trip!

If you post your questions in the Rocky Mountain forum on backpacker.com you'll get some great advice.

 

[Davehiker]

I went to Yellowstone two years ago and am planning a trip this year. I had a great time! Here are a few links that you can spend a lot of time exploring:

Poison Ivy's post on ROT describing her trip in 2007

I really enjoyed her post and her pictures. She helped inspire me to go, and got me very enthused about my planning. I see that the link to her photos is broken, but maybe she can let us know if they've been moved. There have been other posts here on VFTT, which you can find with a search.

Yellowstone Net Discussion Forums

Yellowstone Chat Page

The Totally Yellowstone Chat Page

There are a lot of great posts here, including some incredible photos. The first two boards are very active, with great pictures posted all the time. These folks can answer many of your questions, although only a small percentage of the info. relates to the backcountry. Some of these folks are real hardcore Yellowstone enthusiasts, especially the dedicated wildlife watchers. If you're interested in wolves or bears, you will find a lot of information on the internet.

As others will agree, many of the popular tourist areas are sometimes very crowded. That being said, I think these classic American icons should be seen by everyone. There is nothing like getting stuck in a half-hour bison jam in the Hayden Valley. You can reduce your exposure to crowds with some planning. Try to visit popular spots early in the day, and remember that a few steps away from a paved parking area will have a huge impact. It is possible to view popular sights like Old Faithful or The Lower Falls in solitude, even at peak times. Do a little planning and walk a few steps from your car. If you venture a quarter mile down any trail, you will find almost no tourists.

Everyone has their favorite spots, but I enjoyed every place I went. I spent most of my time in the northeast corner, near the Lamar Valley. I really didn't do too many long hikes, focusing on some roadside areas and half-day hikes. I plan to do several full-day hikes this year.

PM me if you have specific questions. Have fun!

 

[KRobi]

When we went to Tetons we didn't camp but stayed at Hostel X, at the base of the ski area. Inexpensive for the area (Jackson is big bucks). We only did a couple of day hikes but it was beautiful. In Yellowstone we also did the day hikes as well. As long as your not at old faithful there really weren't any crowds. Got up early and saw wolves and grizzlies. Only recommendation would be to check trails carefully for what is allowed on them. Stay away from any trail that allows horses! Extremely dusty and loaded with flies. Everything else was very cool!

 

[poison ivy]

Our pictures are here if you're interested.

We enjoyed our backpack to Heart Lake.... it was a fairly easy trek terrain-wise, but very hot when we went (mid-July) so it was rougher than I expected it to be. If you stay another night (or are a lot faster than we are,) you can also hike Mt. Sheridan, which is six miles RT from the lake. Heart Lake itself was a great destination in itself... We still talk about listening to the wolves howl at night.

I'd also highly recommend Avalanche Peak if you're looking for a short day hike in Yellowstone. It wasn't particularly busy and had fantastic views.... it does have a big talus slope though. I think it is something like 4-miles round trip so it's definitely a quick hit if you're on that side of the park.

I was surprised how much I loved Yellowstone.... I expected it to be very touristy, but once you're out on the trails, you really don't see a ton of people.

 

[Stan]

Haven't backpacked there but have done a few hikes. Be well aware and prepared that this is grizzly country.

You start most hikes at over 6,000 feet so acclimate adequately and expect cool weather. We had snow last summer on Mt. Washburn in NE Yellowstone ... on August 16. Some years ago passes in Yellowstone were closed, temporarily at least, by snow in mid-September.

... a good way to acclimate is by starting at the Jackson Hole Hat Company, drinks at the Silver Dollar Saloon in the Wort Hotel, dinner at the Cadillac Bar and Grill and a night of Western Swing at the Million Dollar Cowboy Bar!

 

[Brambor]

I went to Tetons and Yellowstone three times and you can not go wrong with any trip you choose. My only advice is to plan majority of your trips away from the car...sleeping in wilderneess campgrounds.

 

[blaze]

Backpacked the Tetons in August '07. I had stumbled across Pudgy's photos on Pbase and they were a big influence on my route making decision.

Wherever you go, I think you will have a marvelous time. And you'll probably chuckle every time somebody from out West tells you how rugged the trails are. They ain't seen nothin' like the Whites.

Tetons Photos

 

[TrailwrightBratt]

Mt.Washburn

I have been to Yellowstone and Tetons twice so far.Did not Backpack but Camped in Park Campgrounds each time.
We climbed Washburn and it was a wonderful hike I recommend it.It has a fire tower on top and an observation room open to the public.Lots of wildlife everywhere. We did not use the road we used the trail a few miles south of the road.Spectactular scenery.
You can't help but enjoy it. ENJOY.

 

[MikePS]

Any of the canyons are worthy destinations, the ever popular Lake Solitude, Holly lake are two of my favorites. Teton Crest over Devils Stairs is also great. Depending on your itenerary consider the Alaska Basin, we went in through the Idaho side, (Jedidiah Smith Wilderness) this is a wild and remote place. Camping there, there is a wonderful day hike out to Hurricane pass, perhaps the most spectacular place I have been. The Ampitheater is a great warm up/day hike for altitude acclimation. Several good guide books, the Falcon series has some good recommendations. Good Luck and Have Fun!

 

[MikePS]

OOps, one other quick idea, in Yellowstone Washburn is great, also consider Mt. Avalanche on the Easern side, great views over the Lake and south to the Tetons, North to the Sawtooths, check with rangers this is big bear country in the summer.

 

[Chip]

We climbed Washburn and it was a wonderful hike I recommend it.It has a fire tower on top and an observation room open to the public.Lots of wildlife everywhere. We did not use the road we used the trail a few miles south of the road.Spectactular scenery.
You can't help but enjoy it. ENJOY.

I'll triple the Mt Washburn rec. It's in grizzly country. We saw bear and pushed a herd of goat off the summit area.

I also did Disappointment Peak with Exum in the Tetons as a day hike/scramble/climb. I highly recommend this if you have the time. Disappointment is in front and below Grand. Awesome area. Probably should use a guide there, as parts are a bit tricky. Nothing really technical but we did rope up a couple times. Not a hike for anyone with "vertigo".

 

[J.Dub]

We saw bear and pushed a herd of goat off the summit area.

WTH???

I hope the park ranger cited/fined you for trundling...

 

[Chip]

WTH???

I hope the park ranger cited/fined you for trundling...

no worries. they all landed safely in a snow field below the trail;

there was a huge fire north of West Yellowstone while we were there, which is the reason for the "haze" in this shot.

 

[Davehiker]

Just a note that these critters that frequent Mt. Washburn are not goats, but rather bighorn sheep. The females and juveniles stick together and are frequent visitors to the summit area. It is a real pleasure to see them, and they are not very shy. The males, with their characteristic curled horns, stay away from them during the summer, and are not usually seen up close.

Mountain goats do inhabit Yellowstone, but are usually seen only at a distance, and they frequent very rough high-elevation terrain. They can be seen from a distance because of their white color.

 

[Chip]

cool. thanks for the clarification !

 

[Head]

It's been awhile, but we backpacked the Teton Crest trail. Fantastic trip!

I second the Crest Trail. We did it a few years ago...Amazing scenery all the way! Marion Lake and Hurricaine Pass were my favorite spots on the trip. Heres some video from our outting:Part 1, Part 2, Part 3, Part 4.

 

[jfb]

If you're interested in a bit more of a challenge, you could try the Northwest Couloir of South Teton. If you camp at the Meadows in Garnet Canyon, the hike up and down South Teton can be done easily in a day. It's not technical, but there's a little scrambling up near the top. An ice axe would probably be needed.

If you're into rock climbing, the South Ridge of Baxter's Pinnacle is another great day climb.

 

[woodsxc]

I support the votes for Washburn. It's a fun mountain. I was there a few years ago on a family trip (so no backpacking ) and had a blast.

If you want to do any peaks with a guide, Exum Mountain Guides is based in Jackson Hole.

 

[TrailwrightBratt]

Herd

Billy we also saw the herd while on Washburn, almost had to push them out of the doorway to the observation room. Also had a good talk with the Fire lookout.

Chip we saw grizzlys come down from a hiiside,crosed the road and scooted into a ravine next to the trailhead parking lot.What fun to be 30 feet from them.Beautiful animals and looked very healthy too.