A Few Days in Baxter

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Double Bow

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Ashuelot, NH (anyone know where that is?) Avatar:
Day 1, 7/1/06 Ponds
After the long drive up on Saturday and after setting up camp, we decided to head south on the AT and check out some ponds. Unfortunatly, the levels were so high that we were not able to get too far before we were faced with either wading or turning back. Since didn't have much of an agenda for the day anyway, we turned back though we were thankful for the gorgeous views the ponds afforded us.


Day 2, 7/2/06 OJI [attempt]
The forecast was really lousy and it had rained early in the morning but things were holding so we decided to give Mt OJI a try. If things went well, we'd take in Coe while we were at it as well.

The first part of the trail passed through a long wet section on a seemingly endless string of bog bridges. Due to the fact that she had previously fallen off of a wet one before and scarred her leg in doing so, Shamie took extra care as these were quite wet. When we finally cleared that section, the climb started and it had some interesting and challenging scrambles. We reached several points where Shamie wondered how we were ever going to get down. At a certain point on the slide, she decided that she wasn't comfortable going further and so we planned that I would keep going and she would wait for me.

I kept going for a ways as the slide got trickier and trickier. Still, as I climbed, I had a bad feeling. Parts of the slabs were still wet. I was thinking about how she would be worried about me, but on I went. The further I went, the more that gut feeling I had persisted. Finally, I stopped. I thought about things for a bit and decided that this peak would wait for another day. It's hard to explain but, it just didn't feel right. When I got back to Shamie she was relieved and we headed back to camp. A storm broke shortly after we got back.

Day 3, 7/3/06 Katahadin
This was the day that was forecasted to be the best and so we planned to do Katahdin on this day. This would be our second attempt, the first being five years ago when we got turned back by thunder and lightening. We got up early and headed over to the Roaring Brook lot eyeing the line of cars at the gate as we drove by. At the parking lot, we had breakfast and watched a good many people heading off. I was hoping that the trail wasn't going to be mobbed that day though I was prepared for the possibility.

When we stopped at the ranger's station to sign out, he asked what our route plan was. We told him and he approved. There were strong winds in the forecast and so they were advising folks to stay off of the Knife's Edge. Shamie won't go near that on the best of days so, it didn't affect us. As we headed up the Chimney Pond trail, we saw a lot of people and we made sure to stop at the outlook and Basin Pond.

Then, when we turned off onto the North Basin Cutoff, we lost everyone. the trail was a lot narrower and rougher here as we climbed somewhat noticably. Soon, we reached the Noth basin trail and took it out to Blueberry Knoll. I found this spot to be absolutely amazing! Anyone who is planning to go up Hamlin Peak and doesn't make this .6mi roundtrip detour is totally missing out! This is such a spectacular spot that I would have to say it ranks up there in my top five favorite places. We took a break there and I really didn't want to leave!

But leave we did and we started up Hamlin Ridge which was a fun and amazing climb. I highly enjoyed the moderate scrambles and the fact that everytime I stopped for half a second, I took in some of the most amazing views I've ever seen. We were so fortunate to have a good weather day for this! As we made our way up the ridge, I took a ton of pictures.

Once near the summit, I was blown away once again and I went extremely slow so I could try to take it all in. I could feel the wildness. I could sense that there was no one anywhere near us. I could see unspoiled beauty all around. I dragged my heels to the summit where we took a long break completely uninterrupted. I commented about how the view there of the summit area, the grasses and the Knife's Edge in the distance combined to form an image of what I thought South America might look like. I eyed the Howe Peaks and wished that we had the time for me to check them out but, alsa I had to admire them from afar.

After our lunch break, we refilled our water at Caribou Spring with some of the coldest and most delicious water I've ever had. Then, we headed off toward the Tableland and Baxter Peak. Along the way, we saw another couple and a ranger who told us that not many people go out to Hamlin Peak. That sweetened the experience a little.

Once we got to the junction with the Saddle Trail, we saw quite a few more people and lost the isolation we had enjoyed but, it was to be expected. The climb up Baxter Peak went quickly and we took more pictures up there and I kept eyeing the Knife's Edge regretful that I could not do it that day but making a vow to do it another time. After that stop, we headed back and descended the Saddle Trail which Shamie didn't find hard but found the footing slow to go down. Once at the base of the slide, our pace increased and we soon reached Chmney Pond. We were trying to make up some of the time we had lost on our long leasurely breaks to ensure we got back to camp (1hr drive) and had dinner cooking and a fire going before dark. The rest of the way out was fun though crowded as a lot of other people were heading out at that time too. We made it back in decent time and spent the night reflecting on what a gorgeous and incredible day it had been. It felt good to finish what we had started a long time ago and to get #61& 62 of the 67 as well.


Day 4, 7/4/06 The Owl
The weather was really rough through the night and the forecast was looking really bad too. The original plan had been to do Coe, The Brothers, and Fort on this day but we knew that wasn't going to happen. Instead, we decided that we'd try for Fort and N. Brother (possibly south too) the following day before driving back.

By late in the morning, it wasn't raining but it was decided not to give the loop a try anyway since there was still a good chance of more storms. That said, I couldn't bring myself to just stay in the tent all day so, I took advantage of the break in the weather to climb a nearby 3K, The Owl.

As I started up, I found be motivation kind of low. Maybe it was because I was alone. Maybe it was because I hadn't been sleeping well. Maybe it was the extreme humidity. Whatever the cause, I decided to take it slow and that's what I did across the stream and through the long flatish sections and as I started to do the scrambles up. Then, I heard the thunder. I had already put on my rainpants since the bush was still wet from the morning's rain but now I put on my new Marmot Precip and my packcover.

Still, I climbed. Now with more energy and excitement. I wanted to get to the summit before the storm got bad. Now I had a goal. It started downpouring as I climbed but still I went higher and higher until I reached the top of the cliff. There, I stashed my poles and pack and continued on, keeping a lower profile than the short trees nearby and climbed the first peak. I scurried across the open top as quickly as I could only taking a couple quick pictures before getting back in the trees and heading over to the higher peak. I came out of the trees there just quickly enough to tag the 3734' summit and then raced back down barely stopping long enough to put my pack back on. When I reached the stream crossing, the rain had stopped. Once back at the camp, I reflected on why I hadn't been more cautious and why I had pushed to summit this peak despite the fairly numerous rumbles of thunder. I suppose that the fact that I had turned around on OJI made me more resolved to successfully summit this peak. The remoteness of the location also made this a more precious opportunity. Perhaps I also realized that there was a good chance we would not summit any other peaks...


Day 5, 7/5/06 Home
The next morning, we found that it was going to be a nice day but everything was still very wet as it rained again that night. We also found that yet again, neither of us slept very well. While I really wanted to climb North Brother to ensure my completion of the 67 this year, I knew it wasn't going to happen. We weren't really up for it. We had a long drive home ahead and had to work the next day so we packed up and headed home, stopping in Freeport along the way to grab some good deals. The funny thing is that even now. I'm still OK with that decision. previously, it would have bothered me that I didn't get all the peaks we set out for. Now, just I'm really glad that we had the chance to get up there and that we had such an incredible day on Katahdin. I'd be greedy if that wasn't good enough for me. Besides, it will just be that much sweeter when I go back. It's nice to have something wild and unknown to look forward to.

Here are a ton of pics!
 
Oh, I *SO* want to go back there! :D

Nice TR! And nice pics!

Unfortunately, I've never been on Hamlin with less than a dozen people!
 
Ross - great TR! You have gotten me excited as I am heading up to BSP this weekend. Will check the pix when I get to my home PC (can't view them at work).

What time did you get to the gate for Katahdin?

Best regards,
Marty
 
Great report and excellent pictures!! (kind of hard to take bad pictures at Baxter, no offense :D )

I'm planning on heading up there in Sept, I really want to go back and can't wait!
 
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Sounds like you had a great time! I do every time I got there! I could never get tired of Baxter, it's such a beautiful place, I just can't seem to get enough of it, always hate the leaving part.
 
Nice report, great pics! I really like #1421. I was talking with somebody the other day and they asked me if I missed Maine. I remarked that I missed the ocean, Baxter, and Acadia. I always love to see pics and reports from there. It's like seeing a postcard from home. Thanks for sharing.
 
Hamlin Ridge pros and cons

Double Bow said:
Then, when we turned off onto the North Basin Cutoff, we lost everyone. the trail was a lot narrower and rougher here as we climbed somewhat noticably. Soon, we reached the Noth basin trail and took it out to Blueberry Knoll. I found this spot to be absolutely amazing! Anyone who is planning to go up Hamlin Peak and doesn't make this .6mi roundtrip detour is totally missing out! This is such a spectacular spot that I would have to say it ranks up there in my top five favorite places. We took a break there and I really didn't want to leave!

I wish I'd remembered this when we got to that junction coming down Hamlin Ridge Trail and decided to take the No. Basin Trail instead of the Cut-off last Thursday. On the other hand, we were pretty baked at that point from tons of exposure under a hot sun and a tough hike, so just as well to save it for another day.

But leave we did and we started up Hamlin Ridge which was a fun and amazing climb. I highly enjoyed the moderate scrambles and the fact that everytime I stopped for half a second, I took in some of the most amazing views I've ever seen. We were so fortunate to have a good weather day for this!

I agree with you completely on the views. The "moderate scrambles" are enormously less enjoyable coming down them at the end of a long hike - this is one of those "one-way" Trails, IMO.

It seems you could hike for years at BSP without exhausting its charms. No two trips are alike so every Report like this adds to the knowledge base of those planning their own. Thanks.
 
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